MOUNT RAINIER Rules and Regulations 1920

INFORMATION, UTILITIES, ETC.

INFORMATION.

General information with respect to the park may be obtained by inquiry at the offices of the park superintendent at Longmire Springs and at the entrance to the park, or at the offices of the principal hotels; and a topographic map of the park may be secured at the principal hotels or from the park superintendent for 10 cents.

MEDICAL SERVICE.

A physician is subject to call by the National Park Service and can be summoned in cases of acute illness or serious injury by telephonic communication with the superintendent's office.

POST OFFICE.

The post office is Longmire, Wash., between June 15 and September 15, and Ashford, Wash., during the remainder of the year.

TELEPHONE AND TELEGRAPH SERVICE.

Local and long-distance telephone service is available at all of the hotels and at other points in the park. Telegrams may be received or sent from the hotels. In addition to the regular telegraph charge, an extra charge is made for transmitting a message over the telephone line. All telephone lines in the park are owned and operated by the National Park Service. The charge for use of telephone from or to Ashford and any point in the park, or from point to point within the park. is 25 cents for not exceeding 3 minutes, and 10 cents for each additional minute.

EXPRESS.

Express shipments received at any of the hotels or camps will, upon payment of charges, be forwarded by the Rainier National Park Co., and likewise the company will receive and deliver express shipments for its patrons at reasonable rates approved by the National Park Service.

GASOLINE SERVICE STATION.

A gasoline service station is operated at Longmire Springs. Gasoline, oil, and similar motor supplies may be procured.

ROADS AND TRAILS.

There are two automobile roads in the park, descriptions of which will be found in the paragraphs immediately following.

Trails have been constructed with a view to making the wonders of nature within the park easily accessible as well as to provide patrol routes for the protection of the forests and game. During the season of 1915 the trail system encircling the mountain was completed, and it is now possible in about one week's time to make the entire circuit of the mountain, for which purpose experienced guides with saddle and pack animals may be obtained through the Rainier National Park Co.

The park trail system not only makes accessible the terminals of some 20 glaciers which radiate from the summit of Mount Rainier, but lead directly to the parks and points of interest known as Paradise Valley, Van Trump Park, Indian Henrys Hunting Ground, Klapatche Park, Sunset Park, Mowich Lake, Spray Park, Mist Park, Cataract Basin, Moraine Park, Mystic Lake, Grand Park, Natural Bridge, Berkeley Park, Glacier Basin, Summer Land, Ohanapecosh Park, Ohanapecosh River and its hot springs, Canyon Bridge, Reflection Lakes, Eagle Peak, Narada Falls, Comet Falls, etc.

THE SOUTHERN PORTION OF THE PARK.

The automobile road from Tacoma, Seattle, Olympia, and Puget Sound cities to the entrance gate in the southeastern portion of the park is described on page 20. The Government end of this road is 20 miles in length, leading from the entrance gate (elevation 2,003 feet) to Longmire Springs (6.6 miles, elevation 2,761 feet); thence to foot of Nisqually Glacier (5.4 miles, elevation 3,908 feet); thence to Narada Falls (4 miles, elevation 4,572 feet); thence to Paradise Inn in Paradise Valley (4 miles, elevation 5,557 feet). Snowshoeing parties find many delights during the winter months.

The upper 8 miles of the road above Nisqually Glacier is operated on a schedule by which automobiles leave Nisqually Glacier ascending and Paradise Valley descending on each hour from 8 a. m. to 7 p. m., passing at Narada Falls on the half hour. No serious accidents have occurred on this road, although from 5,000 to 10,000 automobiles pass over it annually with many thousands of visitors.

This road, which has an average grade of only 4 per cent, affords one of the most wonderful automobile drives in the world.

Paradise Valley, Indian Henrys Hunting Ground, and Van Trump Park are the most easily reached and consequently the most frequented places of interest within the national park.

Regular automobile stage lines are operated to Paradise Valley over the Government road from Ashford and Longmire Springs; for rates, see pages 25 and 27.

Indian Henrys Hunting Ground, 7 miles from Longmire Springs, is reached by trail only. This trip may be made afoot or ponies may be secured at Longmire Springs, where the most frequently used of the three trails leading to this resort begins.

To reach Van Trump Park the same Indian Henrys trail is taken, branching off to the right after about 1 mile of travel. The trip to Van Trump Park should, however, be made by going up past Christine Falls and returning by the old trail to Longmire Springs. The distance from Van Trump Creek at the Government road to Van Trump Park by this trail is about 2-1/2 miles. This park is reached by trail only, and the trip may be made afoot or on ponies. While this is one of the most beautiful of the mountain parks, and one of the most easily reached, yet there are no accommodations for travelers, and lunches should be taken and return trip made to Longmire Springs before nightfall.

Ramparts Ridge, 1-1/4 miles north of Longmire Springs, from which a fine view is obtained, is a very popular trip. The climb of about 1,300 feet can be made in about one hour, and the return may be made by the Indian Henry trail.

A trail known as the "Sky Line Trail" leads from Paradise Inn in Paradise Valley up Timberline Ridge, crosses above Sluiskin Falls, and follows down Mazama Ridge to Reflection Lakes, thence via Narada Falls and up the ridge to Paradise Inn. It is about 8 miles in length and has been used by large numbers of tourists. The time required to make the circuit on horseback is about four hours.

Eagle Peak (elevation 5,955 feet), 3-1/4 miles east from Longmire Springs, is also a popular trip. A good foot trail leads directly to the summit, which commnands a magnificent view of the south side of Mount Ranier and the surrounding country. Parties making this trip usually take lunch along and spend several hours at the summit.

The Ohanapecosh Valley, with its beautiful Silver Falls, is reached by trail only from Narada Falls. This is a trip filled with interest, but should be taken only by good riders or pedestrians who are accustomed to long, hard walks. A few rods distant, just outside the southeast corner of the national park, are the wonderful Ohanapecosh hot mineral springs. The Ohanapecosh Trail leaves the Government road at Narada Falls, leading past Reflection Lakes down the Stevens Canyon to the wonderful box canyon of the Muddy Fork of the Cowlitz River, thence climbing the Cowlitz River divide and down into the valley of the Ohanapecosh River. The distance from Longmire Springs is about 20 miles.

THE NORTHERN PORTION OF THE PARK.

Directions for reaching the northern portion of the park are given on page 24.

The Storbo Road from the White River Ranger Station on the northeast boundary of the park to Glacier Basin, 10 miles long, was constructed by the Mount Ranier Mining Co. under a permit from the department, for use in connection with their mining operations. It is a one-way road, 12 to 14 feet wide, with grades from 2-1/2 to 13-1/2 per cent. This road is not passable for automobiles at the present time.

The recent trail improvement and new trail construction has opened many beauty spots and scenic wonderlands, making them easier of access to the public.

The ascent of Mount Ranier is made by parties starting either from Mystic Lake or Glacier Basin with a usual overnight camp either at Camp Curtis or Steamboat Prow, at an elevation of 9,500 feet. From this point upward the climb varies with the changing condition of the snow on the mountain side. With favorable weather, a guide familiar with local conditions, and ordinary endurance it is possible for a party to make the ascent by this route with no more than the usual discomforts experienced by mountain climbers in like altitudes elsewhere.

In all the vast upland region from Sunset Park to Summer Land and extending from Columbia Crest to the northern boundary of the park there is but little choice in the scenery. This is an expanse whose reaches embrace myriad lakes of emerald and turquoise, natural parks of varied and fantastic beauty, dark wooded valleys in whose depths the hoarse roar of waterfalls is faintly heard, solitary peaks and rugged cliffs, and the overtowering majesty of the mountain itself. With such a variety of natural beauty and splendor as here shown, words fail of description and the sense of observation pails, therefore it is only after many visits that the eye becomes accustomed to and the mind begins to comprehend it all.

FISHING.

The principal streams of the park have their origin in glaciers. During the summer time these streams contain much sediment from the grinding action of the glaciers and trout do not bite well at such times. In the spring and fall the streams are clearer and trout can then be caught with bait, and occasionally they will take a fly. Streams of this character, where trout may be caught at favorable, times, are the Nisqually River (below Longmire Springs), the Ohanapecosh River (below Silver Falls), the White River, and the Carbon River. Mowich Lake contains trout of large size and offers good sport to those who can induce them to bite. The varieties of trout vary with the different streams but include cutthroat, eastern brook, rainbow, and Dolly Varden trout. Some streams and lakes have been recently stocked and further stocking is contemplated, so it is hoped that fishing will improve and become one of the attractions of the park. Fishing tackle is obtainable in Tacoma and Seattle but not in the park. The fishing regulations will be found in section 5 of the regulations, on page 43.

HOW TO CLIMB MOUNT RAINIER.¹

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¹By F. E. Matthes, United states Geological Survey.

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The ascent of Mount Rainier is ordinarily made from Paradise Valley, by what is known as the Gibraltar route. This route, which is the one Gen. Hazard Stevens and P. B. Van Trump originally selected for their pioneer climb in 1870, has proven to be by far the safest and most convenient of all the routes by which the old volcano has been attacked. Besides, it is the only route readily available to the tourist public, as it starts on the south side of the mountain, which is the only side upon which permanent hotels and tourist camps are located. The country surrounding the other sides of the mountain is still in its virgin state of wildness, except for a few trails that traverse it, and is frequented only by parties of hardy mountaineers who carry their own camping outfits.

Generally speaking, Mount Rainier is not an easy peak to climb. The great altitude of its summit (14,408 feet above sea level) and the low level of the region about its base (between 2,000 and 5,000 feet) combine to make the ascent an exceedingly long and exhausting one. Dangerously crevassed ice covers a large proportion of the mountain's flanks, while the sharp ridges between the glaciers are composed of treacherous crumbling lava and pumice. Those who have set their ambition on making the ascent will do well, therefore, to realize at the outset that there is no choice of routes, and that should one lose the beaten trail there is little or no hope of extricating one's self by another way. Several lives have been lost on the mountain, in every case by parties venturing out without the aid of guides.

There are several reasons for securing the services of a competent guide. The route does not consist of a definitely marked path. It leads for miles over snow fields on which footprints melt away from one day to the next. Again, the rock climbing up the Cowlitz Cleaver and Gibraltar Rock is not altogether without hazard, and is not to be attempted unaided except by experienced mountaineers.

It is to be recognized, further, that most people do not know how to handle themselves on a long and difficult ascent, as mountain climbing is not with them a daily experience. They are apt to rush eagerly at the start, using up their strength before the really arduous part of the climb is reached. The guide is there not merely to show the way, but to tell the tourist how to climb, how fast to go, when to rest and to take nourishment and to take care of him in case he is overcome with exhaustion or is taken with mountain sickness.

Finally, account must be taken of the exceeding fickleness of the weather conditions on the mountain. Only guides familiar with Rainier's many moods can presume to foretell whether the day will turn out favorable for a climb or not. What may look to the uninitiated like harmless, fleecy vapors on the summit may be the forerunners of a sudden snowstorm which no one could hope to live through. A majority of those who have perished on the mountain have been overcome by blizzard-like storms. Such storms may occur even in midsummer, and on the summit are always attended by fierce gales, against which it is impossible to hold one's footing.

Paradise Inn, in Paradise Valley, is the logical base from which to make the climb. It lies near the timber line, at an altitude of 5,400 feet. Accommodations may there be had by the day or week; guides may be secured, and through them such necessaries as alpenstocks, amber glasses, calks, hobnails, and actor's paint to protect the face from sunburn, etc.

The start is usually made from Paradise Valley in the afternoon, so as to reach Camp Muir before dusk. Here, at an elevation of 10,000 feet, a stone shelter cabin has been built that protects the visitor from wind or storm. The Rainier National Park Co. provides mattresses and blankets for parties making the trip under the leadership of their guides. The camp is some 4,000 feet above the highest vegetation. Provisions and fuel are carried up from Paradise Inn and water is obtained by melting snow. The accommodations are of the simplest character, but enable parties to spend the night at this point, after having climbed 4,600 feet, and to start early the following morning, somewhat refreshed, for the remaining climb of 4,400 feet to the summit. Camp Muir is located in a saddle at the base of a narrow rock spur known as the Cowlitz Cleaver.

The ascent of the Cowlitz Cleaver is quite taxing, being mostly over rough, angular lava blocks. By 8 o'clock, as a rule, the base of Gibraltar Rock is reached. A narrow ledge is followed along the face of the cliff, part of the way overhung by rock masses and huge icicles, and this ledge leads to the base of a narrow chute between the ice of the upper Nisqually Glacier and the body of Gibraltar. This chute offers the most serious difficulties in the ascent, and women should not attempt it with skirts. Bloomers are here a necessity. Ropes are usually suspended from the cliffs, whereby one may assist himself upward. It is wise to move one at a time, as there is ever danger of the persons above starting rock débris and ice fragments that may injure those below. The ascent and descent of the chute are therefore inevitably time-consuming. Ordinarily the saddle above Gibraltar (12,679 feet) is not reached until 10 o'clock.

From Gibraltar on there remains only a long snow slope to climb, but this snow slope is often exceedingly fatiguing. Huge, gaping crevasses develop in it which must be skillfully avoided by detours. Freshly fallen snow may be so deep that one plunges into it to the waist, or else the snow may have melted out into tapering spines and so-called honeycombs many feet high, among which one can not travel without considerable exertion.

The rim of the south crater is usually reached about 11 o'clock. It is always bare of snow, and shelter from the high gales may be found behind the great rock blocks on the crest. Metal cases are left here in which the tourist may inscribe the record of his ascent.

The crater is always filled with snow and may be traversed without risk; only one should be careful near the edges, as the snow there is melted out in caverns by the steam jets which rise from beneath it in many places. Those having the strength may go on to Columbia Crest, the snow dome that constitutes the highest summit of the mountain. The return to Paradise Inn is easily made in from five to six hours.

The climb is occasionally made in a night and a day, leaving Paradise Valley about 10 or 11 o'clock at night, reaching Camp Muir for an early breakfast, and completing the trip during the day. This involves a continuous climb of 9,000 feet which is beyond the endurance of most persons not in first-class condition.

In conclusion, it may be well to say a word of caution to the over-ambitious. The climb is such a long one and the altitude gained so high that none but those who have previously prepared themselves by preliminary shorter climbs can hope to accomplish the feat with anything like genuine enjoyment. Altogether too many people have attempted the ascent immediately upon arrival from the city, without having permitted their hearts and lungs to become accustomed to the rarified air of the higher altitudes, and without having toughened their muscles for the great task. As a consequence they have either come back exhausted to the verge of collapse or else they have altogether failed in the undertaking. And there is unfortunately more than one case on record of persons who have permanently injured their health by such ill-considered proceeding.

It is wise upon arrival to spend several days—the more the better—in climbing about at lesser altitudes. A favorite try-out is an ascent of Pinnacle Peak, on the Tatoosh Range. It affords useful lessons in every kind of climbing that one may be called upon to do in conquering the main peak.

Moderation in diet and the avoidance of heavy food of any sort are precautions that can not be too urgently recommended. One should bear in mind that he is preparing for the most heroic kind of athletic work, and that such work is impossible on the conventional diet followed by most people.

Before starting on the ascent of Mount Rainier do not eat such articles as fried eggs, fried potatoes, hot cakes, or heavy pastry.

Abstain from coffee and tobacco, if possible. Spirituous liquor of any kind is taboo, except as a stimulant in case of collapse. Beef tea, lean meat, all dry breakfast foods, cocoa, sweet chocolate, crackers, hardtack, dry bread, rice, raisins, prunes, dates, and tomatoes are in order. The simpler the diet, on the whole, the more beneficial it is likely to be. Never eat much at a sitting during the ascent, but eat often and little at a time. These are rules well known to mountaineers. The more faithfully one complies with them the higher one's efficiency will be and the keener the enjoyment of the trip.

CAUTION.

All persons starting on dangerous trips to the mountains or glaciers, unaccompanied by a registered guide, should register with the ranger in charge of the nearest station and give him details of proposed journey and name and address of the person to notify in case of serious accident.