Southwestern Monuments Monthly Report

FIELD REPORTS FROM THE MEN ON THE JOB

TUMACACORI By Louis R. Caywood, Custodian

Visitor travel has finally begun its upward trend owing that the winter rush has descened upon Southern Arizona from all over the United States and some foreign countries. Thirty-seven states, Alaska, Nova Scotia, Mexico, England, Australia, and Italy were represented on the visitor register.

In all 1109 visitors were contacted and shown through the Mission, while 85 additional used the facilities of the Monument, making a total of 1194 visitors. This number, by the way, is larger than any November count in the history of the Monument. November, 1935, shows 1141.

Weather conditions have been good with no cold spells to date. October 24 was windy and rainy. November 22 and 23 brought rain which is much needed and wanted by the cattlemen. However, from now on it will probably be cold because of the recent rains and storms here as well as other sections of the country.

National Park Service visitors were rather few this month. On October 25 Mr. and Mrs. Lyle Bennett, Clinton Rose and Ward Yeager were visitors. On November 21 J. H. Tovrea and Jack Diehl spent some time making a topographical survey of the area where the new museum is to be built.

In October Dr. Lockwood of the University of Arizona and Dr. and Mrs. Nichol Smith of Oxford University, England, were interested visitors. On November 23 Dr. and Mrs. Chas. Vorhies of the University of Arizona Agricultural Department took a number of pictures and Dr. Vorhies asked if I had seen any of the spotted bats.

Fifty-one CCC boys from Camp F-64A, Nogales, Arizona, were here on an educational trip. All of these boys were from Texas and they said they had a few old missions in that state also.

Thirty-six Indians from the Phoenix Indian School traveled down in an open truck to see the mission and arrived here in a rainstorm. They presented quite a spectacle wrapped in their blankets and everyone was "Chief Rain-in-the-face". They said they were returning by way of San Xavier Mission that day.

Jack Winter's eulogy on the owl brings to mind that "Way back when" I remember that for about ten days there was only one owl in the ruins. He made a terrible racket every night until finally a mate made its appearance. I was telling one of the Coolidge residents about it and he said that he had shot an owl that was trying to steal his chickens about the time this one disappeared. So that might have been the ignominious fate of one of them. Another time Mr. John Fast, who was staying at the Vah-Ki Inn, told me that he had found a dead owl while setting up some bird traps. So, as Jack Winter says, we wonder how many times the ruins have changed residents since the first pair were seen there many years ago. Continuing with the dead owl that Mr. Fast found — He ask me if I wanted the corpse and I told him thought it might be a good idea to clean up the bones and keep them in the museum work room for identification purposes. So Mr. Fast kindly gathered up the remains and brought them over in a box. This was placed at the rear door of the office. When I looked for them to take them down to the work room, they were gone. I felt bad about it and finally decided that Teddy might know more about this matter. Sure enough he did. In fact, he had burned them!

The first Gambel Sparrows were seen here on October 15. But there is still too much natural feed for them to be taken in the traps.

After telling several thousand visitors how an old Spanish arrastra worked and knowing that some of them did not comprehend, I have finally begun the construction of a small one which will be much better. I have been thinking it might be well to set up the old molino de trigo and borrow a burro on Sundays to show the visitors how it worked. Did someone say "No animals allowed on the Monument"?

On November 19 the Custodian and H.C.W.P. left the Monument for Hermosillo, Sonora, to visit the Exposition and Rodeo. We were both favorably impressed with the Exposition which was mainly agricultural although there were many fine exhibits of products made in Mexico. It was interesting to note in three of the large buildings housing the exhibits that approximately 90% of the Mexicans entering made a right angle turn and followed to the right while the entrance which was a short hallway had exhibits directly in front and to the left. It seems strange that 90% of the visitors would blindly turn right with exhibits in plain view to the front and left. Well, I suppose it is hard for teachers and parents to train some children to use their right hand, but they never forget.

We returned to the Monument on the 22nd and threatening weather prevented us from making any side trips to see Missions which we had originally planned to do.

*o*

Remark: Louis seems to have had a big month at Tumacacori; 222 parties as against 196 last month and 285 a year ago. His attendance was 1,109 as against 743 last month and 1,141 last year. He has an average party of 5 as against 3.7 last month and 4 last year. This is one of the few places where the average party has increased. I don't know why, but our parties this year are averaging smaller than last year. The time of stay was 29.5 this month as against 33.1 last month and 55 minutes last year.

Mr. Caywood's observation on the high percentage of visitors turning to the right is interesting and I might report here that it looks like we are going to get a right hand circulation in two of his museum rooms and a left hand circulation in the third. The Educational Division tells us that the visitor will see and be attracted by the cases to the left, there being no cases to the right for several feet, and will go backwards around the room without trouble.—F.P.

BANDELIER By J. W. Hendron, Acting Cus.

Visitors

We had 518 people visit us this month, falling short 10 of November, 1955, the total for that month being 528. Visitors arrived in 173 cars from 20 states, District of Columbia, Hawaii, and Canada.

The six highest states by order of visitor count were: New Mexico, 212; California, 52; Illinois, 24; Kansas, 17; Colorado, 16; and Oklahoma, 15.

Eighteen people visited us from foreign countries, including England, Canada, Australia, Cuba, Hawaii, and Central America.

Return visitors numbered 66 and 15 of them took the guided trip through the ruins.

Weather and Roads

Days partly cloudy10
Days cloudy1
Maximum temperature.60 Oct. 29
Minimum temperature.20 Nov. 4
Mean maximum50.3
Mean minimum30 9
Precipitation0.37 against 0.09 for Nov., 1935.
Snow and rainNov. 2 and 18.
Dust stormsNone.

The entrance road is in fair shape with the exception of a few rough places on the Ramon Vigil. An occasional bit of snow can be seen lying on some of the south slopes but as yet the road is not affected by snow. Fall weather is still continuing in the Bandelier region; in fact, this is one of the mildest seasons I have experienced in New Mexico. It can't last much longer, however, and I'm expecting a snowstorm most any time now.

Visitor Trip Chart:

72 parties took guided trips through the ruins, making a total of 249 people, the average time per party being 76 minutes. Nine parties were given short talks or partial ruins trips averaging 41 minutes per party.

It seems that individuals more interested in the sciences visit Bandelier in the fall and stay longer than our summer visitors. On several occasions parties have made trips to the lower canyon and have been most interested in the geology of the region.

Special Visitors

October 24 - Farrell McLean engineer, in for several days working on the new entrance road. Andy Clark and wife came in, to be here several weeks. The Clarks have a trailer now and a few days ago they bought a new Packard coupe.

October 28 - ECW Auditor Fred M. Strieby made a short trip around the ruins.

November 2 - Cliff London, Jr. Engineer from Berkeley, was with us for a few hours.

November 8 - Frank A. Kittredge, Chief Engineer, was in on business A. E. Underhill, also of San Francisco, and Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Hamilton of the Santa Fe office.

November 10 - A. E. Underhill returned for a few hours. Ansel Hall and J. C. Ewers, from the Berkeley office, dropped in to talk over the museum. Mr. Ewers remained for a few days so that we could really hash things out.

November 15 - Assistant Superintendent Hugh Miller arrived to spend several days here on business. Mrs. Miller arrived later. D. Sutton & Lorimer Skidmore, architects from the Santa Fe office, were out for a trip around the ruins.

November 16 - Charles L. Gable, Chief, Park Operators Division, arrived for several days' conference with Mr. Miller.

General

Hunting season ended the 15th, and from what I can gather only three deer were taken from the north mesa this season. Game seemed to be plentiful before the season opened but suddenly became scarce, nobody knowing their whereabouts. George Sholly and I rode over the south mesa several weeks ago to the "Stone Lions", and back by the upper crossing. We thought that game would be plentiful over there, but to our disappointment we saw only one deer; however, we did see about 30 turkeys about three miles above the Ceremonial Cave. The Cochiti Indians still hunt in the Monument and I suppose they always will. Shots can be heard every now and then but from all reports the Indians didn't kill anything.

I see from the Broadcast that Bill Sharpe is going to get married. I wonder why he doesn't let us hear from him and tell us all about it.

Earl Jackson wrote me a nice letter the other day. It seems that Earl is pulling out of it in fine shape and is almost ready to go back to work.

If I were Hugh Miller I think I would be fed up on visiting Bandelier. We are there to meet him before he gets up in the morning and he can't even eat his breakfast in peace without having "shop" along with it. He is kept busy answering questions all morning and afternoon, and then we keep him up until mid-night sort of finishing things up for the day. We are like a bunch of hungry wolves—ready to pounce on the Headquarters staff when they arrive.

I took a most pleasant trip last month, visiting Aztec and Chaco Canyon. I met Johnwill Faris, who was all hot and bothered just before the arrival of the new addition to his family; nevertheless, Johnwill showed me the ruins and made the trip most interesting. I wish we had some of that swell pottery for the Bandelier Museum.

We arrived at Chaco just in time to make a trip with Cal Miller. He took us through the museum and all the ruins and then we went over to see Gordon Vivian and Paul Reiter, who are reconstructing some of the ruins. It surely is funny, everyone ribs me about the ruins at Bandelier, but I think they are pretty swell, not spectacular like the Puerco and San Juan ruins but they tell a story all of their own. Anyway, I had a swell time and I would like to get ribbed again.

Museum Notes

As I previously mentioned, Ansel Hall and J. C. Ewers from the Berkeley office were cut going over the museum plan. Ansel couldn't stay but Mr. Ewers hung around for several days. Everything regarding the displays is much clearer now and so we propose to keep in touch with the Berkeley office at all times and then we will know what they are doing. Ansel said that they were in such a position that they could spend a considerable amount of time helping us, and so, Boss, we now know just what each office is going to do and that enables us to go right ahead.

Remark: Business has dropped off at Bandelier as against last month and this was to be expected because the peak load there is in the summer and the low spot comes in the winter. We have had more parties than last year, 72 as against 50, but less people, 249 as against 328. The parties this year averaged smaller, 3.4 against 6.5, but stayed longer, 76 minutes as against 60 minutes last year.

Assistant Superintendent Miller went over things pretty thoroughly at Bandelier and reports everything going well.—F.P.

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BANDELIER E.C.W. By H. B. Chase, Project Superintendent

A large number of enrollee man-days have been consumed on Quarters No. 3 for the past month completing the building and roof construction. Interior and finishing work is now in progress, with a program that the building will be ready for occupancy December 15.

Considerable transplanting of trees and shrubs has been carried on all this month. Construction of another tree carrying piece of equipment has enabled this work to progress more rapidly than in former planting seasons.

Signs for Chiricahua National Monument are now complete; crating and shipping will be made today.

One Fire Ladder has been completed and erected under the direction of Forestry Foreman Fulton this month. Location of this erection being on the South Mesa near the west boundary of the Monument.

Landscape work and road widening performed by the Forest Service on their new road, has enabled us to secure a large quantity of Flagstone rock which was readily accepted by us and hauled to a stock pile at the Monument for use in the construction of sidewalks and portals in the proposed hotel aspen and pine poles for this development have also been secured from the right-of-way clearing and has also been placed in a stock pile on the Monument.

A small crew of enrollees have been attached to the Headquarters office for assistance in the preparation of Museum Exhibits.

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WHITE SANDS By Tom Charles, Custodian

We beg your pardon for last month's poor report. I remember that one of Gene Manlove Rhodes' favorite expressions about his writings was, "I'm not going to pump it up, it has got to flow", and I remembered that motto last month but duty called — I had to pump.

But it is always darkest just before the dawn, and while last month dragged along, this one burst forth in a blaze of glory. About the first of the month the news began to trickle through that the White Sands Extension project was to get $28,000 for the new museum and headquarters area with a little extra for a ranger's residence. The engineering crew was on the ground to prepare for the three miles of black top road, into the sand dunes, and the Governor of New Mexico had just assured us that in the near future the road between Alamogordo and the White Sands would be built to Federal Specification, 32-foot grade, and black topped.

Boy! Think of it - this program of ours at the White Sands was stepped up about seven or eight years overnight. That is pretty fast living for a man of my age.

Before I could get fairly turned around, here came a group of the brass collars; Chief Engineer Frank Kittredge, Superintendent Frank Pinkley, Chief Landscaper Chuck Richey, Jim Hamilton and A. E. Underhill. We fairly reveled in the association of these good friends and they were hardly gone until we had orders to come to El Paso and take one more degree, to meet Director Cammerer, Associate Director Wirth, G. E. Moskey, Herb Maier and a half dozen or more of the lesser lights. Pretty fast living Boss.

In El Paso I slipped across the street to say "hello" to our old friend Captain Simons, Secretary of the El Paso Chamber of Commerce, and he tossed a Scribner's Magazine out before me. "Forty-five thousand, four hundred and thirty people read the story of the White Sands in Scribner's this time", said he. It developed that the El Paso Gateway Club is spending $15,000 this year on publicity in such magazines as Time, News Week, National Geographic, Harpers, Instructor, Scribner and others. They feature the Carlsbad Caverns and the White Sands, side by side. I do not know how Tom Boles likes that but as for the White Sands, we think it is pretty good company.

Another event of the month was Carveth Well's broadcast over the national hookup in which he featured the Great White Sands as follows:

"But now let's return to Las Cruces and start on a journey over Route 70 to Roswell via Alamogordo. On the way you will cross the fantastic Organ Mountains and suddenly find yourself in one of the most astonishing, regions of earth — White Sands National Monument — a dazzling, fairy land, thirty miles long and nine miles wide, a billowing sea of pure white sand that isn't sand at all, but pure alabaster, the only wonderland of its kind on earth. Over twenty thousand motorists visited this amazing place in June and July. Not only are there one hundred and seventy-six thousand acres of pure white crystals heaped up in miniature mountains sometimes one hundred feet high but even the animals are white. I know of several caverns where the animals have turned white because they lived in the dark; but this is the only spot on earth where you can actually see white insects—white lizards and white mice living their lives in brilliant sunlight."

It has been a dazzling month to me. One day I sought relaxation in the columns of the Kansas University Graduate magazine and there was a six inch story, set out in a box, featuring the White Sands. It had been inspired by a visit to the Sands, by Clara Gillham of the library staff and Beulah Morrison, Professor of Psychology. Guess the world is just beginning to know about these Alabaster Sand dunes. To cap it all, Jack McFarland, of the Paramount News informs us that he will be here soon to make a news reel of the Sunday crowds. And the inimitable George Grant, Chief Photographer of the National Park Service, will be here this week to take more of the "best pictures ever taken at the Sands."

You would think we are on a bed of roses down here at the Sands, wouldn't you, Boss? But in the gay galaxy of color we find some thorns.

With the coming of cold weather the visitors build more fires, with consequent, black, ugly scars on the snow-white hills, making more evident the need of small, portable fireplaces. With each fireplace should be a table; in other words, more equipment, more convenience at the picnic grounds. Tracks on the hills will be erased tonight, holes will be covered up, loose papers will be blown away but the black scar of the campfire stands out against the snow-white hills.

Ben recently made a few "coffee stands" from scrap pieces of perforated iron plate, forming the legs by turning down the corners. It is a convenience which the average visitor will accept, and is at least a suggestion as to where his fire should be built. And, Boss, when you are working out a place for us to find the few dollars necessary for these tables and fireplaces, please do not forget the needed toilets at the picnic ground. In the next few months these $6.00 toilets of ours are going to be in strange contrast to the $6000 "comfort palace" at the entrance.

Traffic is still off; our registration at the Turn-Around shows only 687 and on the established percentage of 14, who register, it gives us only 4,907 for the month (no report last year). They represent 34 states and four foreign countries.

**o**

Comments: We are glad Tom's verbal well "flowed" this month instead of having to be "pumped", though we can't complain about that report of his last month.

Things were going fine when we visited the White Sands during the first week of the month. The new utility building is finished and it is a fine piece of work; the new administration building foundations were ready to pour; the foundation of the residence was poured, and the new comfort station was about 92% complete. The parking area was rough graded and the trenches were open for the footings of the surrounding adobe walls and the curbs. Mr. Happer, who is in direct charge of the work under the Regional Office, is getting excellent construction.

When Mr. Charles says that traffic is still off, he means it is lower than last month 4,907 this month as against 5,978 last month. Last year we credited him with 3,507 visitors so there is a gain as against last year's record.

AZTEC RUINS By Johnwill Faris, Custodian

Business picked up a little this month so I can report an increase again over November last year and several like months in the past seven years. Visitors for the month total 654, which is very good for the season of the year. Nearly all the tourists feel that November is not a very good time to take a pleasure trip over the several mountain passes that are necessary to reach this section. While the passes have been closed for only a few hours at a time so far, it is expected that they might close for a day or two at a time at almost any storm. With the exception of one or two bad days the weather has been ideal. The days are clear and not too cold, but the nights are quite chilly and one appreciates several blankets. Of course, the trees are bare now and the usual bother of leaves is with us for a time. Oscar is trying to master the situation and it is only a matter of time before we will again be glad that we have the trees we do.

In this same line, we are making plans at the present time to do a little additional planting that was of necessity neglected due to the parking area gravel pile. When this is done and the front of our building balanced with shrubs, I honestly feel that Aztecean lay claim to one of the most fitting and unique administration buildings in the entire Park Service. The setting is such that one just naturally falls into the atmosphere of the place and the guide has a wonderful advantage to start of with. This added to the great Kiva, the roofed kiva, etc., but then, Boss, that is enough of that kind of talk. The first thing I know I will end up by saying that this is the best Monument in the Southwest and then Budlong and Cal Miller will feel bad, so I won't carry it that far, but you know exactly what I mean.

Park Service visitors for the month include Chuck Richey, Mr. Carter, Jim Hamilton, and Hendron of Bandelier, Ewers of the Educational Division.

Cal Miller of Chaco seems to have developed a sudden fondness for Aztec.

He has been up several times, and I don't know but I believe I can see him feeling sorry for all the terrible things he has said about Aztec. He is at last beginning to see the light and agree with me on the best Monument, etc.

Of the visitors mentioned above, Boss, Richey and Carter were in going over the Monument in general and then, too, Carter, as I understand it, is to be at Mesa Verde and will more or less have Aztec under his wing. We were pleased to present the Monument to them and hope to see Mr. Carter quite often. Jim, of course, was interested in the Kiva problem and that is taking care of itself well enough under the circumstances. There is little to be done without considerable expense and that at the present time seems out of the question. Hendron was here for the first time and we were more than pleased that he saw fit to stop off with us. We hope that he enjoyed his stay with us as much as we enjoyed his visit. The visit of Mr. Ewers was one that we have a great deal, of faith in, and hope that from it some actual action may result on our museum. He was in and gave the problem some serious study and I know will do all he can to get something definite on this museum. We went over things in detail and Cal Miller shared in some of our final conclusions. Mr. Ewers went with me on two trips through the ruins and studied the action of the visitor from the field angle in connection with the museum, and did he put me on the spot. We had completed a field trip and at his suggestion I turned the visitors loose in the museum without a guide to help them. Now, of course, I wish to be fair with the Educational Division and admit that our museum is far from being ideal in self-guided trips, but they wished us to try them so we did. I suppose the party of about a dozen had lingered about ten minutes (longer than most of them will without a guide) when it became obvious that they were getting ready to leave. I was all pepped up, and after they were through looking about themselves, told Mr. Ewers that I would bet that even though they were through, that I could take them and start out at the first case and go right through the museum and not a one in the party would leave nor even act like they had just been through the said museum. Well, I didn't exactly expect what followed, but Ewers said "You wouldn't care to try it, would you?" Gosh, Boss, imagine my embarrassment, but I hurriedly asked the blessing of all the Gods and started out. Well, Boss, I think Ewers was just as surprised at the result as I was when he asked that I try the stunt. Every one of the visitors went right back over the same ground that they had apparently finished and not one of them showed any great disconcern at being told what they supposedly had gotten from the labels.

I do not know what the experiment might have proven to Ewers but it did even surprise me, in that I am willing to bet even money that, if you bar the student, that not any party of twelve or fourteen will spend that much time in the museum after a guide has spent as much time with them as the party mentioned above had spent on the labels. Then, too, I don't believe that the visitor gets as connected a story with the labels. They will cris-cross and go from one to the other without regard to sequence and that tends to confuse the average visitor, I think. Any way, Boss, Ewers spent a long time going over our problems with us and we appreciate it a lot.

Aside from the Park Service visitors we had with us for a few minutes Earl Morris, who of course has meant more to Aztec than any of us. He was in for a few minutes and we did much in discussing things concerning the monument. Mr. Morris stressed one point, and I would like to add my plea as an outsider, now that I am transferring, and that is that some consideration be given to ruins repair. As long as I was custodian one might feel that it was just that I wanted to oversee the expenditures but now that I am out, I hope that any pleas that I might make might be considered as a real need and without thought of personal glory if there be any in ruins repair expenditures.

And in connection with my leaving, Boss, I want to thank the Service and you as Superintendent, for seeing fit to leave me as long as you have at Aztec. I have enjoyed every minute of it, even though at times I probably thought that any place would beat this one. All the branches of the Service have been grand about cooperating and I can not express enough appreciation for the local support in the seven years I have been here. The public, the press, the workmen, my guides, and everything have blended for wonderful satisfaction in administration. To all I can but utter a big hearty "THANK YOU" and in leaving I know of not one individual I would rather turn the best Monument in the Southwest over to, than my friend from Chaco, Cal Miller. So in closing my last report from Aztec as custodian, I only say adios, from here, and hello from De Chelly. (By the way, Boss, I hear from very reliable sources that Budlong was dead right in his claim that Canyon de Chelly is the best Monument in the Southwestern setup).

CHACO CANYON By Thomas C. Miller, Custodian

General

More local people entered the monument during the month than at any one month during my tenure at Chaco. The approach roads have been in excellent shape all the month. The Indian Service and the State have maintained the approach roads both north and south. The Navajos and the Soil Conservation Service Siouxs have been having horse races every Sunday at the Wetherill race track west of Pueblo del Arroyo. Consequently, it has attracted a lot of local people to visit the monument. At this time the Sioux Indians have been successful in winning every major event.

Weather

The weather has been excellent all month. Maximum temperature for the month was 69°, October 29; minimum temperature, 10, November 4. Precipitation .40 rain and melted snow was recorded for the month.

Travel

585 people entered the monument in 197 automobiles coming from 10 states and the District of Columbia.

Special Visitors

Dr. Hewett and Dr. Fisher were business visitors October 26 and 27. C. C. Finaly, special deputy officer, U. S. Indian Service, arrived Oct. 29 and departed on the 30th. Mr. Gus Griffin and his assistant, Mr. John Lincoln of the Soil Conservation Service from Arizona were monument visitors November 4.

National Park Service Officers:

Associate Engineer Hamilton and Acting Custodian Hendren, Bandelier National Monument, arrived and departed October 28. Mr. Erik Reed, ECW Inspector, from the Oklahoma City Office, and Mr. and Mrs. John H. Veale, construction engineer, ECW, Santa Fe, arrived November 7. Mr. and Mrs. Veale departed the same day but Mr. Reed remained until the 16th and departed for Goliad, Texas. Mr. Reed informed us that he would return December 1, and would remain in Chaco until the WPA project closed some time in February. Custodian Faris, was in and out a time or two. Faris has developed a liking or something for cliff dwellings; however, he apologized for all those mean things that he has said about Chaco. However, he still maintains that good stuff comes in small packages and, Boss, that fellow is really convincing at times. I have begun to think that Aztec is a better ruin than the house mounds in Chaco Canyon. Jim Hamilton and Mr. Ewers, Field Curator, National Park Service, were monument visitors on the 14th. Mr. Ewers told me that Chaco was the best monument that he had visited and that if he had visited Chaco first he could not have looked at the other ruins in the Southwest. Mr. Ewers visited Pueblo Bonito and Chetro Ketl.

Activities of Other Agencies in the Monument

The School of American Research has been building new hogans and working on their water system all month. Miss Bertha P. Dutton has continued her work excavating the ruins of LAYIT KIN (Way down Deep House). This ruin as formerly known as Small House Unit No. 26. Excavation was started on this ruin in 1934 and it now looks as though it is going to be a fine ruin. Attached to this report you will find Bertha Dutton's report.

The County School in the Chaco was closed on November 20. The reason for this action was that many of the local ranchers moved their children to town for the winter months and the daily attendance was too low to continue school.

The Soil Conservation Service has continued their repair work on earth dykes and revetments all month. This project is about 50% complete. All construction with this Service will be suspended November 25. We hope this shutdown is a temporary arrangement, as we have a lot of unfinished work in this monument.

Accidents:

On October 26, we received a phone call from the trading post to come at once; this was at 6:30 p.m. When I got to the trading post I found several Navajos that seemed to be greatly excited. Mr. Springstead, the trader, informed me that the 5-year old son of Joe Yazzie had been shot to death by Charlie Atencity, 12 years old. The Fathers of both boys are employed in the Monument. We proceeded to the scene of the tragedy, which was four miles north of the Monument headquarters and one mile north of the Monument boundary. We learned the story fast after we found the body. Apparently the two Yazzie boys, 5 and 8 respectively, were hunting rabbits with Charley Atencity, 12 years old. Charley was carrying the gun and it was accidentally discharged hitting Nee-Yah Yazzie in the left eye. The bullet came out behind his left ear causing death immediately. After I touched the little boy to see if he still lived both the mother and father came up and touched him. Until that time neither of them knew that the boy was actually dead, but they were afraid to go near death until some one else touched the body. I have never seen people take a death any harder than the Yazzie family. After about an hour I asked the Yazzie family what I could do to help them. They informed me that we could bury the boy and say nothing about the death to the Indian Service. I told them that that was out of the question that all deaths would have to be reported. I then asked them if I could take the body to their hogan until morning. Of course, they said no, leave him where he is until morning. It was about one half mile to the hogan. I then gave orders to the Navajos to build fires near enough to the body to keep the coyotes from eating it that night and after much discussion they agreed to do this. We buried the little boy along with all his possessions the next morning on the floor of the Chaco Canyon in the Monument.

This accident was reported to the Eastern Navajo Agency on the morning of the 27th. It was later investigated by Mr. C. U. Finlay, special deputy officer, on the 29th and 30th. The Navajos were greatly excited when the officer arrived, but after I assured them that the officer just wanted the facts of the accident and did not want to take the little boy off to jail they were all right. The Yazzie family remained in their Hogan four days after the death without leaving the house.

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(Way down deep house)

By Bertha P. Dutton

Four kivas: Two excavated to the first floor level; two excavated in part. Fourteen house rooms were excavated; two others partly excavated.

Kiva A: Rooms 7, 8, and 9, "niche" room west of Kiva A, probably the the room west of room 7 and the room west of room 9; the area northeast of Kiva A and the area north of Kiva A, and the room north of room 9, constituted one unit.

Room 9 and "niche" west of Kiva A excavated to first floor level. Room 7 and part of room 8 excavated to lower depths, revealing old underlying structures. The area southeast of Kiva A excavated to below first floor levels of rooms 7, 8, and 9. Area north of Kiva A excavated to depth of 10 feet below standing northeast wall of Kiva A revealing underlying kiva structure (Kiva C), and probably part of underlying structures of rooms 7 and 8. Room (?) north of room 9 unexcavated. Probably another room lies to the west thereof. The room west of room 7 was outlined but unexcavated.

Kiva B: Rooms 1 and 3, 2, 4, and 5. The area east of rooms 4 and 5; rooms 15 and 16; probably at least two rooms west of 15 and 16, with unknown limits to the north, and possibly rooms 10 and 11, constitute another unit. Kiva B is Mesa Verde in type (so-called) ("key-hole" type). Evidence from these house rooms seems to be in keeping with this. Kiva B lies almost directly north from but on a lower level than Kiva A.

Kiva D: Rooms 12, 13, 14, and area between rooms 12 and 14 and Kiva D, constitute another unit. Eastern limits are undetermined. Kiva D is of the 4-pilaster type but excavation insufficient to warrant further comment.

A strato test was made in a refuse mound east of unit A, and in refuse apparently from this sector.

Work was begun on this site (then designated as Small House Unit No. 26) in July, 1934. Work was carried on for about three weeks. In the fall of 1936, about six more weeks of work were put in on this site. Bertha P. Dutton has been in charge of the work since its inception. During 1936 she has been assisted by Marjorie P. James.

For the main part the site has been sterile as to important cultural finds, but numerous small items of mention have been found, such as: imprints of baskets, bone awls, arrowpoints, reed matting, the usual manes and metates, axes and sledges, objects of coalified wood and argillite, pigments, shell bracelets, etc. A rather large quantity of wood and beams were recovered.

An infant burial was recovered beneath the first floor level of room 16. It was disturbed by water action. The infant had been wrapped in reed matting. It was accompanied by two half bowls of Mesa Verde ware and numerous squash seeds. The body was extended, lying on its back with head towards the west.

Comments: Again Carroll has given us a story good for the wires if we were looking for publicity. And again do we get that sharp contrast between the present year of our Lord, 1936, and the Navajo angle which is some five hundred years back. Our work is full of such anachronisms but they become so common to us that we only notice an exceptional case like this.

The Service should have another specialist whose specialty would be psychology. We want a study made of the reaction of the recent changes from Chaco to Aztec, Aztec to de Chelly and De Chelly to El Morro, and want to be set straight on just where the "Finest Monument in the Southwest" is; as it is, we are getting a little confused.

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CASA GRANDE By J. W. Winter, Custodian

As predicted last month our visitor count rose somewhat, reaching 2,909. They came from 37 states, the District of Columbia, Canada, Ireland, India, Mexico, China and Germany. Only one special group is recorded, 21 Mohave Indian boys from Parker, Arizona, who had been visiting the Pima reservation at Sacaton.

We had a number of newsworthy visitors. October 27 we met Will C. Barnes of Phoenix, well-known pioneer and historian of frontier days. November 13 Dr. Emil Haury, Assistant Director of the Gila Pueblo, Globe, came in accompanied by Earl Morris, archeologist of the Carnegie Institution. November 13 we had the pleasure of meeting Dr. Hugh De Valin of the U. S. Public health Service, San Diego. Dr. de Valin was at one time in charge of Hot Springs National Park before the Park Service took over. November 22 we were very glad to meet an old friend, Bill Thompson, manager of Mammoth Cave, Kentucky, whose area is now being taken over by the Park Service. An interesting visitor November 23 was Samuel T. Lee, retired Foreign Service officer, formerly U. S. Consul General in Brazil. November 22 the ruins were viewed by Edward M. Grooth, U. S. Consul, Calcutta, India.

As usual, most NPS visitors were for Headquarters, not the Monument. We can only record those who signed the register or went through the ruins. November 1 we met Fanning Hearon, Chief of the Division of Motion Pictures, USDI, and later in the month his partner in crime, Paul Wilkerson. Perhaps a visitor but rather a member of the family was Custodian Frank Fish of Chiricahua, whom I had the pleasure of meeting for the first time November 4. Last but far from least came our old friend Don Louis Schellbach, from Grand Canyon, accompanied by wife and son. Don Louis and I hadn't seen each other since escaping from the Washington Office over a year ago. We used to get together and talk over the matter of the contemplated escape. We finally made it.

The weather was pleasant, on the whole, except for the extraordinary amount of east wind, with some dust. You may notice by SWM 16 that many ruins trips were shorter than usual and the reason was of course that people don't enjoy staying in the Casa Grande with a howling wind whipping the dust up off the floors. Temperatures ranged days from 65 on November 3 and 22 to 90 November 15. Nights from 31 on November 7 to 59 on October 7 and 30. Precipitation was .09 inch.

Our major gripes are still the same: Lack of personnel, no new sewer system, no funds for use in controlling our mesquite infestation. The first item has been helped considerably by our being authorized to hire an extra guide on Sundays, though I grudgingly spend the money from our regular funds. What has become of the new sewer system I don't know and until it is installed we must continue to spend money on our old makeshift sewer pump engine. As for the mesquite, the powers that be apparently prefer to let it remain infested even if it costs us all our trees. Perhaps the idea is that the bugs and worms have a right to life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness also.

The resurfacing of our entrance road and parking areas is practically completed. We deeply appreciated the opportunity of actually seeing Underhill at work. He does work, you know, every now and then. Everett asserts that my base insinuations regarding him in last month's report were utterly without foundation. Unfortunately he does not have access to the printed page whereon to "deny the allegation and defy the alligator."

A new coil water heater has been installed in the Chief Clerk's quarters. This provides hot water with the greatest of ease and now Jim can hardly wait until Saturday night to take a bath.

This time I haven't any nature notes to report so my material is practically exhausted. One other recent incident occurs to me, though — a lady entered my office and asked if the "gun expert" was in. I modestly admitted that she might mean me, whereupon she produced an ancient and rusty Colt .36 Navy revolver, cap-and-ball, vintage of about 1860. She wanted to know all about it and what it was worth. As a gun it had no market value, because of its poor condition and the fact that it was not of a rare type. However, she had found it in New Mexico (she lived in Lordsburg) near the spot where she said Geronimo had been captured, not very far from Chiricahua National Monument. I suggested that some collector might value it for its historical background or perhaps she might like to donate it to the Chiricahua National Monument museum when and if established. It really was an interesting piece, apparently highly valued at one time, as it had a silver front sight and a silver name plate (blank) set into the walnut stock. It was loaded in five of the six chambers. It is of no particular value but would be worth having in a museum as an historical relic of the sixties and seventies in the Southwest.

Last week the H.C.W.P. and I took a day off and visited Saguaro National Monument. Paul was on the job and we were glad to see him again.

Last minute news flash: Our front curb shows an unbroken line of California licenses. Why? Can it be that the Californiacs are forsaking their much vaunted climate for ours? Okay, Chambers of Commerce, fire away!

**o**

Comment: Business is picking up to pre-depression levels at Casa Grande and it looks like we are going to have a heavy winter traffic.

It looks like we will be back with our old familiar peak load problem on Sundays and holidays, but we think there is some way to handle up to about 450 or 500 per day before the congestion gets us down.—F.P.

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EL MORRO By Robert R. Budlong, Custodian

November has been a very busy month. This officer has spent his time between two Monuments — Canyon de Chelly and El Morro. At this writing we are at El Morro, with a fire burning in the new stove, while outside the wind howls around the rock and a fine snow drives against the windows of the cabin. Snow has remained on the ground in shady spots since the snowfall of September 27, and daily we expect a fresh, heavy fall of it.

The cabin has been rearranged inside, fresh chinking done around logs, weatherstripping put around windows and doors, and we are preparing the cabin for a cold winter, "just in case." Our greatest worry right now is the wood situation, but we have been promised several loads of it in the near future.

El Morro is a beautiful Monument. A great opportunity exists here for work during the winter, on which work we already have started. The new Custodian and the new HCWP have acquired over sixty volumes dealing with the early history of the Southwest, early expeditions, etc., and this material is being copied, where necessary, and arranged so that in the future both condensed and detailed information regarding the Rock and its history may be found in the official files without difficulty.

Compared with de Chelly, El Morro swarms with wildlife. While most of the "wild animals" seem to be cottontails and jackrabbits some coyotes have been heard, and last week a wolf was reported as having been seen crossing the road between here and Ramah. Large numbers of birds seem to be making plans to spend the winter here, and these we are feeding at the cabin, and they are becoming very tame. Yesterday afternoon was spent hunting for a black cat that had made its home within the boundaries of the Monument. The hunt terminated in mid-afternoon, most successfully, on a high ridge among the pines on the north side of the rock, and now we feel that bird life and the number of small animals will stand a much better chance of increasing.

Visitors have been somewhat scarce during the month. To date 78 persons have registered since Vogtie sent in last month's report. Beginning with next month, more detailed data on visitor attendance will be available — if we get any visitors.

The HCWP and I met Charlie Steen in Gallup the morning of November 4, and we spent the morning listening to a discussion of plans for the taking of motion pictures by the group of Washington Interior Department men of the Division of Motion Pictures: Mr. Fanning Hearon, Mr. Walter Scott, and Mr. Paul Wilkerson. After lunch Mr. Scott and Charlie Steen started for El Morro, reaching it about an hour before we did. We all had supper at the cabin, and they returned to Ramah for the night. Next morning they came out early and Mr. Scott took motion pictures of many of the inscriptions. Then they left for points north, including de Chelly, where I later met them.

Vogtie departed before we moved down and we were mighty sorry to miss him. We had spent several very pleasant days with him prior to his departure for Nevada, however, and he rendered all possible assistance in furnishing information relative to the Rock in ordering wood, and doing a thousand an and one things to make things easier and more comfortable for us. We miss him mightily, and greatly appreciate all the trouble to which he went in our behalf.

Numerous directional and other signs, now no longer necessary, have been removed. Some of the framed informational Park Service descriptions of inscriptions and early expeditions have been removed, where they contained erroneous information, and as soon as we complete brief summaries of information dealing with other inscriptions, the remaining framed explanatory placards will likewise be removed, since the permanent custodian ship now makes such placards unnecessary.

We are considerably worried over the present condition of the Eulate inscription. While a cement footing was poured at its base some time in the past, we are not at all satisfied with the general condition of the rock slab on which the inscription has been carved. We will make a careful inspection of it and report more in detail in the near future.

A number of heretofore unobserved inscriptions have been found during the month, and quite a little information found on some of the later inscriptions. This information is all being assembled for the files, and if we can just get enough time during the winter, we hope to be able to present for your inspection a rather interesting file of such information. Right now we are both suffering from an old, familiar malady — lack of time. The typewriter hums away busily at odd moments, during the day, and often well into the wee, small, hours; but when the snows arrive in earnest we hope to have more time to spend working on this material.

This has been a most unsatisfactory report, Boss, but I hope to be in a position to do better next month. Vogtie has set a high mark in reports for me to aim at, and right now I must admit that my marksmanship is poor, even though the object of yesterday's cat hunt might not admit it. Incidentally, while we do not know where bird-hunting cats go after their departure from this vale of tears, we trust that that particular one I annihilated yesterday is now enjoying a warm, dry, climate on this cold winter's day.

**o**

Remarks: This is the first report we have had from Bud and Betty in their new home.

We note the number of 20 guided trips this month compares with 30 last month and with 12 a year ago. The attendance was 72 this month against 153 last month and 45 a year ago. The average party this month was 3.6, last month 5.1 and a year ago this month was 3.8. The average time per trip this month was 73 minutes, last month 56.5 and a year ago was 80 minutes. It looks like Bud found something to talk about as soon as he arrived and is able to hold his visitors long enough for them to find what it is all about.

I might say that the Eulate inscription is not making its first bow to the puzzled investigator who wants to preserve it. We will go back through the files and see if we can uncover the correspondence of several years ago when that concrete footing was poured at the base of that slab, and if we do find it we will run it in the Supplement to the Monthly Report in order to put it into the record.

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CANYON DE CHELLY By James D. Harritt, Ranger in Charge

Visitor travel for the month of November showed a marked increase over that of last November. Total visitors this month numbered 45. For the same period in November, 1935, the count was 30. Visitors took trips as follows:

TripNo. Trips No. PersonsTotal Time Average Time
per trip
Rim1043 1,050 min.105 min.
Car in Canyon12 240 min.240 min.
Trail0


Horse0


Visitors arrived in 13 cars, averaging 3.46-plus visitors per car.

The canyon started flowing late in October, and has been flowing steadily since that time, making travel by automobile within the canyons dangerous. The largest volume of water since last spring came out of the canyon October 30.

Weather has been generally good, with cold nights and fairly warm days; highest temperature during the month was 71 degrees on October 29; lowest temperature was 12 degrees on the 5th of November. Greatest range in 24 hours was 49 degrees on the 17th. Twenty-six days out of the last 30 have had a minimum temperature well below freezing. Ice and heavy frost have been common. Rainfall for the period amounted to .79 of an inch. On the evening of November 2 it snowed 14 inch. We came indoors about 8:00 p.m.; at 8:30 p.m. a cloud bank had rolled in and it was snowing heavily. The Southwest is not only a land of magnificent distances, but of fearful and wonderful climatic convulsions, as well. Several other snow falls were noticed at odd times, but amounted to little more than flurries, too light to record.

Only official visitors for the month were Johnwill Faris and Cal Miller who dropped in the 11th to look the place over. I had met Johnwill before, but this was a double pleasure to see both Chaco and Aztec Monuments represented here at the finest Monument, simultaneously.

Mr. Yokum, of the Geological Survey, with Mrs. Yokum, and a crew of two, came in the 12th, and have been doing preliminary triangulation and base line work for the boundary survey. They are to be followed shortly by the topographical crew, who will complete the work.

Went down to El Morro on November 16 to bring Bud back for a final cleanup here at de Chelly. We awoke the 18th to find it cold, blowing hard, and threatening very bad weather. Packing furiously all day we got out for Gallup that evening. I returned with the pickup the evening of the 19th; shortly after I was startled to find a large, heavily leden truck in town. It turned out to be Johnwill with a load of household goods. We unpacked, and he left again for Aztec the same evening. There is something about this northern weather that is most "moving". It must be the roads.

Work of other government agencies in the canyon has not been intensive. Soil Conservation Service worked on some land protection during the month, but have shut down for this season. Aside from the survey which will be continued by the Geological Survey party when they arrive, little else probably will be done within the Monument boundaries till next spring.

I was certainly sorry to leave Bud and Betty down at El Morro last Thursday, but cannot help but envy them in their new location and beautiful country. I sure wish them lots of luck down there.

Well, Boss, I would like to have made a little longer report on this, my first attempt, but feel that my literary talent has about run out. For this time I will close and get this to the mail if I am able to make the run that far through the swirling dust and wind.

**o**

Remarks: Canyon de Chelly had about a normal month and we are safe now, after three years of testing, in saying that the travel season is over at that monument by November and we will probably not be able to increase the number of visitors in the winter for many years because of the bad roads and winter weather.—F.P.

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GRAN QUIVIRA By George L. Boundey, Custodian

Visitors for November, 290.

Last Sunday was a beautiful sunshiny day and we had 106 visitors. Fifty-two percent came from farther than 100 miles; thirty percent came from 25 miles or farther; and the balance was local. I think this goes to show we can expect a goodly number of visitors during the winter months, once the roads are in good condition.

More than anything else, this Monument needs a museum collection and a safe place to keep it. Not only will it enable us to gather in a considerable collection from the farmers in the vicinity, but it would go a long way toward attracting visitors from a distance.

Mr. F. V. Scholes from the Carnegie Institution, Division of Historical Research, Washington, D. C., spent about a week in the vicinity looking over Pueblo sites and studying the reservoirs, etc., in the Gran Quivira group of ruins. Mr. Scholes has promised us copies of some manuscripts recently discovered, dealing with this group of pueblos. From the records this ruin is evidently the Mother Mission and not Tiberia, Tiberia having been a small pueblo, a Visita of the Mother Mission. One manuscript tells of a protest the Chief of this pueblo made to one of the governors at Santa Fe in regard to priests watering four hundred head of cattle from the posos of this pueblo. He ends by saying that his people will soon be without water unless some of the cattle are moved.

We have a large survey party in the vicinity. They are re-establishing corners and definately laying out township lines, etc. They expect to be in the vicinity all winter.

I think we had a slight earthquake in this vicinity on Wednesday, the 18th. The wife had a pan of bread dough upset from near the stove, the bird baths were shaken from their pedestals and quite a few things in the vicinity disturbed. At the ruins quite a number of loose stone fell from the walls and in places some projecting corners had to be removed for fear they would fall on visitors passing thru.

Three times during the month we showed pictures in the Community building down at the village. I was able to get some very interesting films on the pueblos in the vicinity of Sante Fe. One on the Indian Pottery of New Mexico was especially interesting. Animals in the National Parks and several films on the National Forests and Alaska were also very much appreciated.

Quite a number of people have been bitten by rattlesnakes in the vicinity lately but no casualties on the Monument. The natives say this is the latest the snakes have come in to hibernate in a number of years.

Several students from the University at Albuquerque and one of the directors of the New Mexico, Cuarto Centennial of Coronado, spent an afternoon here last week. They expect to return again in the near future to look over a group of ruins near the Atkinson Ranch. These ruins are some that Mr. Scholes did not succeed in finding and asked me to send him a report on them.

Practically all cisterns in the vicinity are dry and water has raised from ten cents to twenty-five cents a barrel. We have sufficient cistern water to carry us at least another month depending on the number of camping parties we supply, and of course the deep well is not affected by the drouth.

**o**

Comments:

Gran Quivira seems to be doing pretty well in the way of visitors. Mr. Boundey gave 64 guided trips this month as against 50 last month and 40 a year ago. His attendance was 290 this month as against 159 last month and 200 a year ago. His average attendance per party was 4.5 as against 3.2 last month and 5.0 a year ago. His average time per party was 51 minutes as against 56.7 minutes last month and 35 minutes a year ago.

We are interested in that part of the report dealing with snakes. "Quite a number of people" may mean anything above two, and we are going to ask Mr. Boundey to report the actual number with names and dates so far as he can trace them down. Also, it will be interesting to know if any of the bites resulted fatally.

**********o**********

SAGUARO By Paul Beaubien, Ranger in Charge

From the morning of November 3 to the night of November 23, 742 visitors were checked by the CCC boys at the Speedway entrance of the monument. During that period, I contacted 147 people at the ranger station.

Travel figures for previous months: For the 19 days, July 13 to 31, inclusive, there were 1,878 visitors. Six days of heavy traffic during that period were due to the filming of "The Gay Desperado" by the Pickford Lasky Production Company. From August 1 to 31, there were 1,005 visitors traveling in 275 Arizona cars and 39 inter-state cars. From September 1 to 30, 405 people arrived in 99 Arizona cars and 26 inter-state cars. From October 1 to 31, 675 visitors were checked through the Speedway entrance.

The above figures are not complete as the CCC boys leave for camp at 4:00 p.m. on week days, and many visitors drive here in the evenings. Also, there are days when the gate is unguarded due to inclement weather. Probably few visitors are missed on these days.

Having a CCC boy at the main entrance has helped in several respects. They took several guns away from visitors each day during the first part of the hunting season. After the first week, they stopped about one gun a day. Sometimes they found visitors carrying away cactus plants. These people were made to take the cacti back and replant them in the Monument.

Several miles of roads in the monument are in bad condition due to the summer rains. I have filled a couple of cuts with rock, but they all need a general overhauling. I wish the improvement of existing roads could be made a project of the CCC Camp. Several thousand visitors will be using these roads this year and next.

I have comfortable quarters in the old tool shed, but do miss a water supply. By living in monument, I meet some night visitors that I missed last year. Have taken two parties on nature trips by flashlight. That isn't my idea of how to run a monument, but it's either that or having them come in to spend the evening with the poor ranger.

Have had several stormy days lately, but I expect the run of winter visitors to get under way shortly.

**o**

Comments: We have moved our temporary man into Saguaro a little early this year in order to study the winter visitors and find when the curve there begins to rise.

Paul guided 44 parties, making a total of 147 persons. The average party was 3.3 persons and the average time the party stayed was 37.9 minutes. It must be remembered that this is a report for only part of the month, making the total number of visitors too low for the whole month. 742 visitors were checked through the gate, but, as Paul points out, some percentage came through after the checker went off duty at 4:00 p.m. We will have closer figures next month.

**********oo**********

CHIRICAHUA By Frank L. Fish, Custodian

November weather has been quite changeable; the earlier part of the month was cold and windy; the first killing frost occurred on the third; pleasant warm days and cool nights prevailed from the tenth to the 20th; stormy weather has been with us since, mainly strong winds, rain and finally ending in snow. At the present writing a white mantel covers the Chiricahuas.

The approach roads to the monument have been in poor condition during the month, especially the one coming from Douglas and Bisbee. The Forest Service has a detached group of enrollees from the Turkey Creek Camp staying here rebuilding small bridges on the Pinery Canyon road.

Visitors show an increase over the number given last November. We have had 330 people in 101 cars coming from 20 states, 224, or 69%, were from Arizona.

Strong winds have kept many from using the trails at times, preferring to see whet they could from their ears and Massai Point. It is also noticed that the majority visiting this monument for the first time are not dressed properly to enable them to get out and hike. I might be expecting too much but I feel my duty has not been performed unless I am able to show more of the wonders at the Monument than can be seen from a car. Still it is not practical for a lady in high heels to walk long distances. While she may make it, I have noticed it is not enjoyed; consequently, most of the guided trips have been short ones. Many of the visitors feel disappointed when they arrived at Massai Point in their cars and find that the Big Balanced Rock, Punch and Judy, and other famous formations are four miles away by trail. It leaves one undecided whether in the future it will not be necessary to run a spur road to these attractions. It might be possible to compromise and run a road part way and still keep the "Heart O' Rocks" in its natural state.

Accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Hougham, Franklin, Indiana, guests at the Faraway Ranch, a cave with its walls and ceilings painted with Indian symbols was visited. This cave is about a half mile north of the CCC Camp.

Chuck Richey was here the 10th. Tovrea and Jack Diehl came in the 21st and 22nd. Jack was true to form - he arrived with another storm.

November 5 I accompanied Mr. Stevenson to Coolidge. It was a pleasure to see the Coolidge gang again. I observed a demonstration of how to pack humans in an office along with hay bailers, files, desks and other nick nacks. It is quite clear now why someone is in the field — otherwise it appears they would have to suspend someone from the ceiling.

November 7 I attended the opening and dedication of the Douglas underpass. It is a fine piece of concrete work and has a copper plaque of the famous Cochise adorning each end.

A lantern slide talk on general park views was given to the enrollees at the Camp during the month; attendance, 125.

A circulating heater and a cast iron range were purchased during the month to be installed in the new residence fast approaching completion.

**o**

Comments: The 16 parties with 58 people who were guided this month at Chiricahua, were smaller than the 16 parties who were guided last month when there were 128 people. The average attendance this month was 3.7 as against 8 for last month. The average time on the trail was 80 minutes as against 107 minutes last month.

Frank raises an interesting point on many visitors not being properly dressed for trail walking. One of the things we want to study in the next year is this matter of how many visitors we can get out on trails and how far can we get them to walk. Chiricahua and Bandelier have several miles of fine trails now and we ought to begin gathering visitor reaction on them. I am not in favor of driving reads through the finest scenic section of Chiricahua and the Branch of Plans and Design stand with us on that. If the visitor cannot be persuaded to walk or ride a horse he will just have to miss something.—F.P.

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CHIRICAHUA E.C.W. By Wm. Stevenson, Project Sup't.

The Echo Point-Rhyolite Trail connection has been finished this month. The completion of this trail opens the Rhyolite-Massai Point-Echo Canyon Loop.

The Massai Point-Balanced Rock Trail has progressed 1,350 feet, and work has been started on the Sara Deming-Balanced Rock Section of this same trail.

Sugar Loaf and Echo Trails were maintained this month.

Maintenance has progressed rather slowly on Rhyolite Trail as many changes are necessary to meet Park Service standards. 500 feet of this trail has been maintained to date.

The rock slide on the Massai Point road has been cleared away and a small backsloping crew is at work to prevent any reoccurrence at this point.

The Headquarters Ranger Station is 90% complete. Installation of fixtures and painting being all that is left to do.

The Equipment Shed is 85% complete—all doors are ready for hanging, and rafters are all in place

TONTO By Francis M. Stevenson, In Charge

It was another interesting month at Tonto National Monument with a total of 230 visitors for the period ending today.

Several rains helped to keep the trail to the ruins in comparative good condition. The visitors, from all parts of the nation, showed a very understanding interest in the cliff dwelling. There were some complaints about the road leading to and from the monument.

Statistics show that 181 persons visited the Lower Ruin in 59 groups. The total guiding time on these trips was 2,054 minutes. The groups averaged 3 persons and about 35 minutes each. There were 169 persons guided in the museum at an average of 3 per group and about 12 minutes each.

Please give my best regards to all the fellows. Thanks again for your helping hand.

**o**

Comments: Steve handled 59 guided trips this month as against 65 last month and 50 a year ago. Business seems to have been normal. He had 181 visitors this month as against 177 last month and 248 last year, a drop in numbers over last year. His average attendance per party was 3 persons as against 2.7 last month and 5 last year. His average trip time was 34.8 minutes as against 45 minutes last month and 70 minutes a year ago.

He gave 63 museum lectures to 169 people, an average of 2.6 per party and the parties stayed an average of 12 minutes. Last month he gave 75 museum talks to 209 people who overage 2.7 persons per party and stayed an average of 15 minutes.

Steve left us as this report was turned in and has gone back East. We are sorry to see him go. He has been with us only a short time but was liked by all who knew him. Good luck, Steve, wherever you go.

**********oo**********

WUPATKI By James W. Brewer, Ranger in Charge

500 Use of Monument Facilities by the Public

62 guests registered at Wupatki; 52 at the Citadel Group; only 7 names are duplicated, leaving a total of 107 visitors, to this Monument in November, 1936; 1935, 93; 1934, 73.

530 Newsworthy Visitors

Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Hamilton on the 24th; Mr. S. Wallace and Mr. V. Harris, of the Forest Service, on the 26th; Mr. and Mrs. Rotty of the Forest Service on the 8th; L. L. Hargrave on the 14th; Ferrell and Mrs. H. S. Colton on the 15th; Jack Diehl and J. H. Tovrea on the 17th; R. V. Van Valkenburgh on the 17th and 18th.

021 Weather

Skies were generally cloudy from the 24th until the 3rd; then came 13 consecutive clear sunny days; it was cloudy on the 14th with a dust storm on the 15th.

Days cloudy:10
Days partly cloudy:2
Days sunny:19
Maximum temperature:64 on the 25th
Minimum temperature:16 on the 3rd
Precipitation:.3 inches on the 29th.
Anemometer:4216.9 total miles
Maximum:478.6 on the 2nd
Minimum:29.3 on the 14th.

220 Improvements

The back dirt from Room 7 was used to level the trail on the west side of Rooms 10 and 18.

The three glazed frames to be used in the registration room have been given two coats of white paint. The Tree Ring display is ready for hanging, and before this reaches you I expect to have all three displays finished and hanging.

General

This is a mighty short report but does not reflect a lack of interest in the Monument.

On the 3rd Erik Reed left for Chaco Canyon and I continued the work in Room 7.

I've spent almost all my time there or writing notes on the work since Reed left. (We enjoyed having Erik with us and learned a lot from him.)

As soon as the negatives are printed and the material sent off for identification is returned I will forward the report complete to your office.

Navajos

Sallie got Clyde an order for six hand-made silver spoons. It seems as though that's just too much to push onto a fellow all at once, because Clyde said he guessed he'd better get his brother Emmett to help him!

And the mystery of who cut Grandfather's drawers off is too good to keep. Occasionally the U.S.I.S. leaves a bill of Indian relief chuck or clothing here to be distributed. Several weeks ago, when the weather began to get a bit chilly, I gave Grandfather (Peshlacoi Etsedi) a set of long woolen underwear. He returned several days later; he was very indignant; he showed us the drawers; someone had cut them off just below the knee! His legs were cold! I rushed downstairs to get him a complete pair; while I was gone he talked to Sallie at length about it; he made motions as of scissors cutting; he wondered if Mexicans had done it? — Navahos? — Americans? It was pretty bad, whoever had done it.

He went away quite satisfied with the long drawers I had brought back for him. But he was back yesterday; the affair had evidently been preying on his mind. Would we always keep the tool house locked? We should, because people from Gray Mountain might come through and go in there—we mustn't forget that someone had cut his drawers off! (The bundle of clothing had been left here in August, and I think that the drawers in question had probably been cut off for summer distribution.)

I took a party of visitors over to Clyde's camp today; as we drove up Clyde made a dash from his anvil (railroad iron) into the hogan. I'll bet somebody's Christmas present went with him. We're having the tree a little bit early this year so we can clean up and take off.

***o***

Remarks: Business seems to have been about normal at Wupatki during the month. The average time per party went up to 68 minutes, due to a couple of long parties.

Lest you might think the Brewers should have explained to Grandfather that long handled underwear was out of style, and thus satisfy him, I might say the present Navajo women's dress is a copy of the dress of the officer's wives at Bosque Redondo, where the Navajos were held by the army back in the sixties. When a Navajo adopts a style he doesn't want to be bothered with minor changes every fifty or sixty years, to say nothing of changing from longs to shorts every six months. Grandfather has our understanding sympathy.—F.P.

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SUNSET CRATER By J. W. Brewer, Jr., In Charge

205 visitors registered at Sunset Crater in November, 1936; 1935, 96; 1934, 117.

Attached is a written complaint regarding roadside directional signs.

The writer did not sign it so I am including the registration sheet for comparison of handwriting. (I believe "Mr. & Mrs. W. A. Tweser of Dallas, Tex." on line 37 wrote the note).

The new road into the cinder borrow is the only confusing place I know. A temporary sign has been placed there and two months ago a permanent sign was ordered and will be erected upon its arrival.

A copy of this sign order was forwarded to your office.

***o***

Remarks: Copy of the complaint is as follows: "If only you knew what a great help it would be to tourists if the ones in charge of this Monument would mark the road to this section clearly at the various cross roads from Route 89! One may only guess at the turn to make."

The complaint seems to be from a visitor who thinks we should mark the roads that ought not to be taken. After turning off 66 by a standard sign we presumed the visitor would stay on 89, which is a fine wide, surfaced road, running straight north, until he came to a sign turning him off to Sunset Crater. Instead of that, this visitor wants all those cow paths, wood roads and minor cross roads which quite plainly go nowhere, to be signed so she will know that she is not to take them. Reminds me of that time we had a party come into Case Grande and protest about the terrible condition of the roads between here and Phoenix. We said the road was graded and surfaced all the way to Phoenix and we couldn't imagine where they found it bad. They said yes, but they left that road and got on a little, narrow Indian road which was in terrible shape and something ought to be done about it!—F.P.

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WALNUT CANYON By Milton Wetherill, In Charge

The report for trail work can be handled best by showing a sketch of the island with points where most of the work was done.

A: A small rock wall and fill in a draw, wall about three feet high and four feet long. This wall and fill widen the trail on a bad corner.

B: A small rock wall and fill on a steep slope, wall about four feet long and two fee high.

C: Moved a large rock over which the trail went. By baring this large rock into a wash, I lower the trail in the middle, and raised it on both sides with a rock wall and fill. (Some improvement can be made with powder.)

D: By moving a few large rocks I straightened the trail and lowered it about three feet. Fifteen feet of trail was straightened and lowered.

E. A large rock wall and fill. Wall 18 feet long and six feet at highest point.

F. A rock wall and fill. Wall ten feet long and four feet at the highest point.

Loose rock and gravel removed from between these points.

Made a trip to Wupatki National Monument by Sunset Crater Monday November 16, 1936, to see the type of burials they were taking out from beneath the floors. (Also took in the basin with Mrs. S. Brewer as guide)

Mr. Hugh M. Miller Assistant Superintendent, Southwestern Monuments, has been the only official visitor.

The following birds were observed in the Monument this month:

Pine Siskin
Canyon Wren
Clark Nutcracker
Red-shafted Flicker
Chestnut-backed Bluebird
Pygmy Nuthatch
Rocky Mountain Nuthatch
Townsend Solitaire
Woodhouse Jay
Gray-headed Junco
Pink-sided Junco
Red-naped Sapsucker
Ceder Waxwing
Mountain Chickadee
Cooper Hawk
Western Horned Owl
Spurred Towhee
American Ravin
Golden Eagle
Lead-colored Bush-tit
Western Robin
Mountain Bluebird
Rocky Mountain Evening Grosbeak
Red-breasted Nuthatch
Long-crested Jay
Pinyon Jay
Red-backed Junco
Shufeldt Junco
Western Red-tail
Mexican Crossbill
Long-tailed Chickadee
Western Chipping Sparrow
Flammulated Screech Owl
Rocky Mountain Sapsucker
White-breasted Woodpecker

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CAPULIN MOUNTAIN By Homer J. Farr, Custodian

Another month rolls around and we find ourselves in bright sunshine and cool weather very very dry. The vicinity of Capulin Mountain National Monument now has the appearance of a scene I well remember about twelve years ago when the family and I went to California; I recall topping the Oatman hill and looking across the Colorado River from Arizona into California and seeing cars drifting along the dusty highways with a trail of unbroken dust rising behind each car for about a mile. So I says to my family: "This is indeed the much-talked of desert of Arizona and California." Now when one is going upon Capulin Mountain getting views from three different directions over Highways 87 and 64 the same scene arises again unbroken columns of dust rising for almost a mile behind each car as they travel over the dusty highways. Never before in more than thirty years (for I have been here that long) has the dust been so bad and we are only blessed for the reason that we have had an extremely quiet fall. We are all praying that we get plenty of moisture before the spring winds set in. Capulin is one of the best parts of the state for big game, like deer and elk, and it has been so dry that not more than ten per cent of the hunters secured their deer this fall, the Custodian being one of the 90%.

Travel on the Monument has been very good this month and about 600 have visited this month. Several of the Forest Service boys have been our welcome visitors this month. They are in this vicinity classifying some of our grazing land here as to carrying capacity of stock, and, of course, they had to drive up on our Monument.

The Custodian has been doing some road work on the Volcano the past week. The lower half of the road is again taking fair shape but the constant sloughing of gravel into the road is a thorn in the side of the Custodian. Something, sometime, someway, must be done and this winter the Custodian is submitting a plan which if followed out he believes will forever eliminate the trouble.

This Monument hardly got a fair shake at the travel report for the year just past. It happened this way: in the years past the Custodian's reports for this Monument showing the monthly and annual travel have been only estimated and estimates have possibly run a little high and the Superintendent's Office knew this and has been slightly reducing the annual reports before it all went into the mill; and this year we have actually had far more travel than any previous year. The Custodian this time thought it better to be more conservative than in the past in submitting the amount of travel and the Coolidge office made the usual reduction. So I guess the Custodian bears the blame as he should. He will have to learn not to yell wolf.

This Monument expects far more travel this coming season than ever before. U. S. Highway 87 is undergoing a severe operation and the big bend in her back is being removed and the distance from Clayton to Raton will be reduced about twenty miles from the original route ten years ago and this U. S. 87 will according to plans be all paved from Denver to the Coast this coming season. I hope and expect to see this coming season carrying more traffic than any highway in the state and, of course, they will, all want to see Capulin Volcano.

Fauna

I noted quite an increase in our deer population immediately after the deer hunting season this year. Probably hunters have driven them to the Monument and a deer soon learns where it is protected. We might have plenty of game with us to stay if we only had water.

I am afraid that we are going to lose some more of our trees on account of dry weather and porcupines. I will try to make a close check on the damage done and report to your office some time next month.

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MONTEZUMA CASTLE By Martin L. Jackson, Custodian

Have had 353 visitors for the month, 179 climbing the ladders. Twenty states were represented; also had visitors from Canada, Honolula, Alaska, Chile, and China. Have had some stormy weather and the usual complaints about the roads. Which complaints I am sorry to say are quite justifiable.

The three dude ranches situated near here report a good number of reservations being made. Already guests are coming in, and they predict a good season.

Dr. Wallace W. Atwood of Clark University paid us a visit during the month; he is a great booster for the Park Service.

Another interesting visitor was Carl B. Wallerstedt, Consul of Sweden. He spent a couple of hours with us and said he hoped to come back again.

Engineers Jack Diehl and Tovrea spent a few minutes with us on the 18th.

While we had very few visitors during the month I found them to be the hardest to interest, to hold their attention, than any month since I have been in the Service. I found on several occasions when I would get all hot and bothered about cliff dwellers and think I was doing my stuff; then some one would horn in and ask me who I thought would be the next president, or what I thought about the Social Security Act, or who would carry New York state.

Ranger Farmer insists that the cliff dwellers were not as tall as he is. Or if they were, they were hunchbacks, from going through the low doorways. Then we had a stout lady in today that insisted they were dwarfs. Otherwise they would have built doorways that a human being could get through. Might add, however, that she climbed all through the building.

**o**

Comments: Montezuma Castle shows a drop this year, from 445 last year to 353 this year.

We might state here that Mr. Jackson has a new set of store teeth in front to replace the set knocked out by the Westinghouse engine which he was trying to start. We have sent the bill through to the Compensation Commission for payment and it is nice to know that any of us can get a beautiful set like that any time we want to knock out six or eight of the ones we have in the regular line of duty.—F.P.

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PIPE SPRING By Leonard Heaton, Acting Custodian

For some reason this report seems to be days late and weeks since my last report was sent in. It might be due to several things that have happened the past 30 days to make time drag.

One thing is the old Dodge Truck, which has taken some time to get in running order so that I could be sure of getting back to the bed ground at night. It seemed like first one thing would come loose or break, then another. After a lot of tinkering, stopping and starting, purchasing a battery, gas tank cap and filter bowl, it seems to run as usual, as I spent six hours Saturday in getting a load of wood for the monument.

There have been very few visitors to the monument this month. Two days took more than two thirds of the visitors. On October 27, 19 school children from Short Creek stopped for ten minutes, and on November 14 (when the ECW had a barbecue to dedicate the completion of a reservoir they were nine months in building) 20 visited. The total for the month is 56. The local travel has not been very high. Probably 180 would cover all that has been by the Fort.

I gave a lecture to the Camp on the 15th, which turned out to be rather amusing. Mr. Matland, an ECW foreman, asked me to come down at 2:00 p.m. and talk to the boys on the history of this place. Well, when I got there there was not an Army officer or an ECW officer in Camp, so I just sat around in the recreation hall for about 15 minutes waiting for some one to come. Finally two boys came in and asked what I wanted. I told them and they went out and brought back the First Sargent. I told him that Matland had asked me to talk to the boys today. He then went out and blew his whistle and called the Company together. One could hear the boys cussing and not making very favorable comments on being called away from their books, sleep and other recreation at that time, and I was beginning to wonder what I would say, as the expression on their faces was something like this: What in the _____ does he want? I explained the best I could that I was asked to talk to them on the history and if any of them wanted to go it would not bother me and that I was sorry they ere disturbed. I guess they decided that now that they were out they might as well stay and listen to me. Well, I kept them for 40 minutes and only lost four or five boys that were cooks and had to go. After I had finished they were called to dinner, so I guess they were not altogether displeased.

November 16 most of the boys went on a work strike because of the food that was being served them, but on the 17th everything was all right again.

Bird Notes

On November 4 I set some of my bird traps and caught four Gambel Sparrows and since then I have been catching them almost every day. In my banding I have caught 71 Gambel Sparrows, 7 Rocky Mountain Song Sparrows, 2 Canyon Wrens; there have been three returns from the birds that I banded last spring: 36-15144, banded April 1; 36-15150, banded April 2; 36-116912, banded April 5. These have stayed here for a while and now I guess have passed on south.

I have lost two birds, one Song Sparrow that was hurt in the trap so that it died the next day, and the other one was killed by a chipmunk that got into the trap with the birds and before I could let them out one Gambel Sparrow was killed and two more were wounded but able to fly away. I am having a lot of trouble with the chipmunks getting into my traps and taking the bird feed.

On November 1 I verified the statement of Mr. L. J. Brown that he had heard some quail on the monument as I saw a flock of 15 just back of the Fort. The quail stayed around for about a week then either they left or were killed by some of the camp hunters.

Since I wrote you about the complaints I have of the boys, I think they understand what the Park Service is trying to do as I have not seen any signs of their molesting or hunting in the Monument but they do some on the reservation.

On November 5 Mr. Al Kuehl came in to do some planning and drawing for future development on the monument. He was here almost all afternoon again on the 6th. He came in with Mr. W. J. Ward, U.S.B.P.R. and we three got into Mr. Ward's car and went out on the road toward Toroweep about 20 miles looking for the best route for the road that is to be built in a few years. Al and I had Mr. Ward look over the road in the monument and if the road is made up to standard it will have to be placed south about 50 feet or there will have to be two large trees cut just south of the road. Or the west pond will have to be moved back on the southwest corner about eight feet. We feel that the road should be moved. This will mean that we will have to replace the whole set-up in the development of the monument, as to camp ground, move it south; parking area, residence area, planting of trees and the east and west entrances, I will be glad to get them established and finished up.

I have received the signs and will soon have them up.

Final arrangements have been completed so that I can get the fish that I want for this monument. If storm does not interfere I will go to the hatchery next Saturday for them.

There has not been very much work to report for the ECW this month. Since the cold weather has set in we will not build the fireplaces and we need drawings for the tables. The other projects need relocation since now the road is apt to be changed. The ditch elimination is the only project that we have to work on, and as there was some misunderstanding on it, it needs approval in the 8th period. I am letting them go ahead and haul in dirt as it will take them another six months or more to complete.

The last part of October and the first part of November we received more than two inches of rain, which was a God-send to the livestock, as most of the ponds and tanks were filled letting the stock out to better feed. Also it will help the growth of the plants. There has been some grass coming up on the south sides of the hills this month.

On November 10 a 12-pound boy was born to the Custodian and Mrs. Beaten in Kanab. Mrs. Beaten and the boy are getting along just fine.

***o***

Comments: Congratulations to Mr. and Mrs. Beaten on the new arrival and we are glad to hear that the mother and baby are doing well.

I might say that it has been pretty definitely settled that the new highway will be carried to the south of the Monument and we will come in to our monument with a by-pass or stub road. This will keep the heavy traffic outside and not cause any change in our set-up.—F.P.

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BANDELIER FORESTRY By James Fulton, Forestry Foremen

Received too late to consolidate with the other Bandelier reports)

From October 24 to November 13, inclusive, my crew of 23 men was engaged in cutting snow damaged aspen poles on Sawyer Mesa. These poles will be converted into ceiling material eventually. A total of 51,150 lineal feet of such material was cut and delivered to Frijoles Canyon.

Of this, about 10,000 feet has been peeled and split and piled to season.

Since November 13, I have had a crew of 14 men cutting and hauling Ponderosa Pine vigas and lintel material. These products are being obtained from the Soil Conservation Service on the Ramon Vigil Grant where the aforesaid Service is conducting a timber stand improvement project. We are doing them the service of cutting and removing mistletoe-infected trees. So far, 92 thirty-foot logs have been delivered to headquarters area.

At this writing we have just ceased the practice of requiring at least one foreman to remain in camp for fire guard duty. During the winter there is no need for this, however, there is always at least one foreman who remains in camp of his own accord.

Beginning on November 11, I began holding a weekly class in Forestry. In this class, general forestry subjects are discussed, along with elementary botany. Also, during each class period, identification of local trees and shrubs is carried on. The response I am obtaining is quite pleasing.

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PERSONNEL INCREASE THE SCHMIDTS, CARL and BETH REPORT A BOY LEONARD and MRS. HEATON ARE NOT SO SPECIFIC, THEY REPORT A BABY ANYWAY, ALL PARTIES ARE DOING NICELY AND WE WELCOME THE NEW PERSONNEL. P.S. LATEST BULLETIN: BOTH BOYS!


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newsletters/sw_mon_rpt/smmr-1136d.htm
Date: 23-Nov-2012