I. HISTORY OF THE STAFFORD CABIN A. INTRODUCTION The Stafford Cabin is a log and frame building located in Bonita Canyon, a small drainage from the west side of the Chiricahua Mountains into the dry but productive Sulphur Spring Valley in Cochise County, Arizona. The cabin is individually listed in the National Register of Historic Places (March 31, 1975) and is also contained in the Faraway Ranch Historic District (August 27, 1980), part of Chiricahua National Monument. It is managed by the Superintendent of the Monument. Chiricahua National Monument, established in 1924 to protect the unique rock formations popularly known as the "Wonderland of Rocks" which adorn the upper reaches of this section of the mountains, is surrounded on three sides by the Coronado National Forest, and on the fourth, or west side, by Sulphur Spring Valley, most of which is privately owned.1
The 110-year-old homestead cabin and surrounding land became part of Chiricahua National Monument in December, 1968. The structure is a two-room log cabin with a stone fireplace and chimney, a shed-roofed "kitchenette" and bathroom addition, an open porch, and an attached garage. The cabin sits on a flat expanse of the canyon once occupied by an orchard, from which a few trees remain. Bonita Creek is located a short distance north of the cabin. The history of the Stafford Cabin involves a number of facets, from a homestead claim during the Apache resistance to family life in a pioneer environment to its last decades as a guest cottage at a modestly popular dude ranch. Perhaps of foremost significance is the pioneer era, or the Stafford years, 1880-1918, a time when the earliest settlers appeared in the area and developed a ranching and agricultural legacy in the Sulphur Spring Valley. This document will hopefully shed new light on the significance of the Stafford Cabin in the history of the Southwest.
Sulphur Spring Valley is a wide semi-arid region in the southeastern corner of Arizona bordered on the east by the Chiricahua Mountains. It is noted for cattle ranching and farming with irrigation. Chiricahua Indians, an Apache tribe, inhabited the valley and the mountains from the 1700s until 1876 when after years of warfare and four years of uncertain peace, U. S. troops removed those who did not flee to the San Carlos reservation to the north. However, not until 1886 did the troops succeed in subduing this troublesome band, led by Naiche and Geronimo. During their heyday Indians congregated at Bonita Canyon's spring where they found not only sustenance but a pass over the Chiricahua Mountains, a route that also afforded numerous hiding places.2
The threat of Apache attack kept Spanish explorers and missionaries away from the region, and after the Gadsden Purchase from Mexico in 1853-54 settlers were still somewhat discouraged from entering the valley. Lt. Col. Philip St. George Cooke and his "Mormon battalion" opened a wagon road via San Bernardino and Tucson some years earlier and the Butterfield Overland Mail operated in the area from 1858 to 1861. During the 1850s relations with the Chiricahua Apaches remained fairly peaceful. A number of government survey parties crossed the valley between 1851 and 1855, including one survey of the Mexican border and another seeking a transcontinental railroad route. Evidence of pioneer cattle ranches were found by members of the former expedition.3
As tensions between Indians and the military and civilians increased, coming to a head at the battle of Apache Pass in 1862, the United States Army established Fort Bowie at the northern end of the Chiricahua Mountains on July 27 of that year. The fort dominated not only the pass but the source of water at Apache Spring, and provided troops to help make the region safe for white settlers, an often difficult and sometimes impossible task. Colonel Henry Clay Hooker, who had arrived in the Tucson area with his livestock in the summer of 1869, established the first permanent cattle ranch in Sulphur Spring Valley in 1872, the Sierra Bonita Ranch located northwest of today's Willcox. During the late 1870s a small number of settlers entered the valley, including Louis Prue and Brannick Riggs, both of whom founded ranches in the vicinity west and northwest of Bonita Canyon. By 1880 the main line of the Southern Pacific Railroad reached the northern part of the valley, where merchants and settlers established the town of Willcox.4
Late in 1880 a man with the uncommon name of Ja Hu Stafford arrived in Bonita Canyon with his new wife, Pauline. Stafford was born on June 2, 1834,5 in Davidson County, North Carolina, to John Wesley Stafford and his wife, Clementine Reid Stafford. Young Ja Hu moved with his family to Kentucky and then Missouri where he lived until 1852, when the not-yet-18-year-old enlisted in the army, stating his age as 21.6
After serving five years as a recruit and then private in Company K of the 7th Infantry at Forts Towson, Arbuckle and Washita in the Indian Territory (later Oklahoma) from 1852 to 1857, Stafford commenced to travel around the country. Stafford visited Texas, Arkansas and Kansas Territory, and along the way (possibly in Illinois) he married Dorothy Francis Hicks. He then drove a small herd of cattle to Oregon where he tried his hand at ranching and farming in the Powder River area of Oregon. After about seven years of operating a public house near Baker, Oregon, Stafford sold out his ranch and returned to Kansas a relatively rich man. For a year he owned a large herd of cattle, but sold it in 1873 and bought a number of properties in Garnett, Kansas. He left Garnett two years later and, after trying at least two new careers, including as a Wheel and Wilson sewing machine salesman, he returned only to suffer continuing financial setbacks. Around this time Ja Hu left his wife and daughter, Alice ("Allis" in Ja Hu's spelling), and his stepson, Theodore Hicks, and traveled to Colorado.7
In 1879, while in his mid-forties, Stafford went to Manti, in Sanpete County, Utah. There he met Christoffer Madsen, a Danish-born Mormon immigrant to the area. Madsen, his wife, and two daughters had traveled in 1867 as part of a Mormon company on the steamer Manhattan from Liverpool to New York, continuing by rail and riverboat to North Platte, Nebraska. The travelers purchased some sixty covered wagons there and outfitted themselves with necessary provisions. Under the leadership of Capt. Leonard G. Rice, the wagon train left North Platte on August 8, 1867 for Salt Lake City. During the trip the two daughters died, and in September a girl was born in western Wyoming and named Pauline Amelia. The company reached Salt Lake City on October 5, 1867.8
According to a family story Ja Hu Stafford met 12-year-old Pauline Madsen in the spring of 1880 as she herded cattle barefoot and came to his cabin to get warm. On June 3, 1880, Ja Hu and Pauline were baptized into the Mormon faith in Manti, and probably married at this time, and soon left for Arizona. The couple traveled in a wagon train via Lee's Ferry on the Colorado River. An experienced Stafford helped the ferryman get the train across the river, for which he was given free crossing and a dollar.9
The Staffords arrived in what was to become Cochise County in the latter part of 1880 and made their way to Bonita Canyon. According to Stafford's daughter, Clara Stafford Wheeler:
On October 17, 1880, Stafford filed for a homestead in Bonita Canyon, a long rectangle of bottom land and mountains consisting of 160 acres, being the south 1/2 of southwest 1/4 and south 1/2 of southeast 1/4, Section 26, Township 16 South, Range 29 East, of the Gila and Salt River Base Meridian.11
With winter coming Stafford and his wife must have constructed their one-room log cabin in haste. Stafford chose a site near the southwest corner of the homestead, on Bonita Creek. He built the fourteen-and-a-half-foot square, high-ceilinged structure of large unpeeled logs, an attribute that supports the notion that Stafford was in a hurry. Stafford squared and notched the corners and chinked the openings with wooden wedges and gravelly mud. His daughter Clara described the cabin construction, probably basing her memories on what her father had told her some sixty years earlier:
A photograph taken some twenty years after the construction of the cabin showed large shakes covering the visible portion of the original roof. The cabin had a dirt floor.13
In the southwest portion of the homestead Stafford planted an orchard. To the east, up Bonita Creek, lay other suitable planting areas and a good spring, in what is known today as Silver Spur Meadow; here Stafford planted a vegetable garden. The remainder of the homestead to the north consisted of rocky and mountainous ground with scattered grazing land. 14
Ja Hu and Pauline Stafford became the first to settle permanently in Bonita Canyon. Near the mouth of the canyon lived Louis Prue, a cattle rancher who had come to the Sulphur Spring Valley in late 1878 or early 1879. A few miles farther northwest lived Brannick and Mary Riggs, pioneers who had arrived shortly after Prue. The Riggses raised ten children and their family and descendants have enjoyed prominence in the area for over a century. In a letter to her sister, Pauline Stafford wrote that "for several years after we first came here we only had one neighbor nearer than him [Brannick Riggs]." This "one neighbor" would have been Louis Prue.15
A man named Newton, by some accounts a squatter or army deserter, built a cabin in Bonita Canyon at an unknown date before 1885. This cabin, about a quarter mile west of the Stafford cabin and outside of the Stafford homestead, became the officers' quarters at the the cavalry encampment during 1885-1886. Emma Erickson purchased it, by some accounts from Ja Hu Stafford, in 1886. However, no evidence of Stafford's ownership has been found, and nothing is known of Newton except his name and the existence of his cabin.16
The earliest nontechnical description of the Stafford homestead appeared in a diary entry dated April 16, 1882, when young Pauline Stafford wrote:
Mrs. Stafford mentioned only two horses and a number of chickens; Stafford must have had no other livestock at this time or his wife probably would have mentioned them. Pauline Stafford wrote to her father in 1883:
Cochise County, in the southeast corner of Arizona Territory, had been formed out of Pima County on February 1, 1881, with the county seat in Tombstone, 97 miles southwest of Bonita Canyon. Ja Hu Stafford traveled there to register to vote in October of 1882, listing his occupation as "rancher".19
Stafford officially acquired his homestead on April 6, 1886. On the documents filed with the land office Stafford listed improvements such as a double log house, chicken house, smoke house, corral, and a four-acre fenced-in garden. At some time before this date, Stafford had added a second room to the cabin, made of larger logs than the first room. This addition also measured about fourteen feet square. According to family tradition this part of the cabin featured a dirt floor with a stone-curbed well.20
Ja Hu Stafford, in middle age, and Pauline, a young teenager, went to work on the homestead to fulfill the terms of the Homestead Act of 1862, which required that the land be used and improved for a period of five years before being granted to the settlers. The threat of Indian attack posed perhaps the greatest concern during these early years; the renegade Geronimo and his band of Chiricahua Apaches hid out in the area after an uprising at the San Carlos Reservation in August, 1881. According to family tradition, Stafford had located the well inside the walls of the cabin for safety. The Staffords found the closest military protection at Fort Bowie, some thirteen miles northeast, and may have taken shelter there at times.21
Stafford's homestead received official approval with a certificate from the President dated May 23, 1888. By this time his activities on the land consisted largely of stock raising and farming. Ja Hu Stafford called himself a "rancher" while registering to vote during his first years in Arizona Territory and his daughter Clara later recalled that in the early days he hauled wood to Willcox where he sold it. By 1888 he had changed his occupation to "gardener," and later to "farmer". Stafford's orchard and garden eventually provided his chief source of income.22
Stafford planted approximately two acres directly to the west and southwest of the cabin with fruit trees such as apples, apricots, peaches, persimmons, and pears. Stafford was, by some accounts, devoted to his orchard although the climate in Bonita Canyon proved less than perfect for fruit trees: early frosts killed a high percentage of the crops every few years. Nevertheless, people came to Bonita Canyon to buy fruits and vegetables from Stafford, whom one recalled as "very much of an orchard man." Remnants of the orchard remain in the field opposite the Stafford Cabin.23
On the eastern portion of the homestead Stafford had a large vegetable garden, called the "upper garden", fed by a spring. The products sold to local ranchers, markets in Willcox and Pearce, the "Buffalo soldiers" during their year at Bonita Canyon (see page 14), and to Fort Bowie. No official documentation has been uncovered concerning the sales to Fort Bowie, but family tradition and a reminiscence of close neighbor Neil Erickson states that Stafford delivered produce to the fort. Stafford's personal journal reveals sales of produce and eggs to a number of officers from Troops E, H and I, 10th Cavalry, while they were stationed at Bonita Canyon in 1885-86. Stafford documents purchases by Captains Theodore Baldwin and Joseph Kelley, First Lieutenant Millard Eggleston, Quartermaster Sergeant Charles Key, Sergeants James Spears and Charles Turner, and Private Randall Blunt, all stationed at the Bonita Canyon camp. The purchases, mostly for 25 cents to two dollars and sometimes with credit, included eggs, radishes, beans, lettuce, cabbage, onions, pumpkin, potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, parsnips, corn, squash, and watermelon. Apparently the garden was large, of two to four acres, and the only one of its size to be documented in the area other than that of a Mr. Barfoot who grew potatoes in Barfoot Park, in nearby Pinery Canyon.24
Stafford's garden received water from a nearby spring, by some accounts through a wooden flume. A number of reports have stated that this or another source was a hot spring. According to Stafford's daughter Clara, by diverting the warm water to the garden, vegetables could be grown even in the winter. Family accounts stated that an earthquake, known to be on May 3, 1887, caused the hot water to disappear, leaving Stafford to irrigate with a more conventional method. Stafford wrote of another earthquake on the day it happened, November 5, 1887, but made no mention of the hot spring or any damage: "had quite a heavy Shock of Earthquake this evening and also had our first frost the same night." Daughter Clara stated almost a century after the fact, that "when the earthquake came which they did have one in the 80s it just shook the fireplace all to pieces and threw her [sic] all over the yard and of course big rocks came down off the mountains too . . . the spring there had hot water at that time but after the earthquake came why the hot water disappeared . . . and the spring . . . [they] tried to find it several times but they never did find it."25
Stafford continued gardening on his homestead for at least a decade. In 1896 he laid claim to water to the north of his homestead, filing this notice (in Stafford's unique spelling):
Pauline Stafford's letters reveal some of the details about the gardens and their products. In September 1892 she wrote, "We have a very nice garden and lots of watermelons and we have about an acre planted to Peanuts they do well here we raised over 8 sacks last year . . . ." Later that year she wrote to her sister: "I must tell you something about what we have been doing. I have made 50 quarts of Ketchup for sale and 6 gallons of Citron Preserves, 3 gallons of Tomatoes Preserves besides I have put up for my own use 2 gal. apples 3 gal. Peaches 3 gal Gooseberries and about 10[?] gal. Tomatoes and then I want to make a lot more Preserves. I also dried about 25 pound Sweet Corn and alot of String Beans."27
With the abandonment by the U.S. Army of Fort Bowie on October 17, 1894, Stafford no doubt lost a valuable customer. However, Stafford also had cattle to rely on for income. He first registered a brand for cattle and horses on October 28, 1887, and renewed the registration on November 20, 1898. Stafford's brand was a diagonal slash on the left cheek, and holes as earmarks in the points of each ear.28
Pauline Stafford became pregnant within a few years of settling at Bonita Canyon, but the couple's first child died in childbirth. The parents reportedly named the child Reveley, an old family name; they buried the baby in a small simple grave with a rudely carved "R STAFFORD" on a rough stone, in the south part of the orchard where it remains.29
Ja Hu and Pauline went on to have six children, five living to adulthood: Mary Pansy (called Pansy) born January 15, 1885, Anna Mae born December 1, 1886, Ruby Evelyn born September 30, 1888, Thomas Asa born May 30, 1890, and Clara Clementine born June 10, 1892. Stafford added a room to the cabin, of a slightly larger-diameter logs, between 1881 and 1885, around the time the first baby was due. It appears that the family of seven lived in these small quarters for most of its existence; by the time another addition was constructed near the turn of the century, almost half of the family had left or died.30
One would hope that Pauline had assistance with her many births by a midwife or neighbor lady. Ja Hu Stafford considered himself able to take care of the medical needs of his family, and may have assisted with the births. Years later a neighbor, Neil Erickson, recalled a time in late 1886 (about the time that Anna Mae was born) when he "was summoned to go and get [neighbor Mary Riggs] to perform an act of kindness for my near neighbor Mrs. Pauline Stafford." While the nearby residents lived at widespread locations, they no doubt helped each other as necessary. Erickson wrote to his new wife in 1887 that "Mr. and Mrs. Stafford send their best regards to you and wish you would come out here and live. They say that it's kind of lonesome now with this house [the Erickson cabin] empty."31
Pauline revealed some of the family's hardship in a letter she wrote to her sister in Utah announcing the birth of second child Anna Mae in December, 1886. "She is doing well but I am not strong enough yet to do much but take care of baby and Pansy. . . . I would liked to have sent you some money but I have been sick so much that Stafford has had to be with me all the time so he has not had any chance to make any . . . ." Three years later the Staffords continued to struggle to make ends meet, as Pauline wrote in January, 1890:
Nevertheless, the children received gifts during the Christmas of 1889:
Life at Bonita Canyon in the 1880s brought excitement and danger at times. Until 1886 Indians remained a potential threat to the settlers. A family story relates how Pauline shot at a Black soldier who approached the cabin, perhaps thinking he was an Indian; the only casualty was one of Stafford's prize fruit trees which the bullet severed. Wild animals lurked about the homestead, chasing the kids and injuring the livestock. Pauline wrote in 1886 how "a Panther caught Nellies 4 months and a half old colt about 200 yards from the house and Stafford shot and killed it / it measured 6 feet 8 inches from the end of his nose to the end of his tail / it measured 30 inches around the girth / 8 inches around the fore leg / the Panther was a male." Bobcats entered the house on at least two occasions only to be dispatched by Ja Hu Stafford with a knife. Stafford wrote in his journal of killing a bear on October 6, 1887.33
After about five years on the homestead the isolation decreased. In the Fall of 1885 a detachment from the Tenth Cavalry composed of Black enlistees, known to some Indians as "Buffalo Soldiers", camped in Bonita Canyon about a quarter mile west from the Staffords. In October of that year Troop H, under the command of Capt. Charles L. Cooper, established a semi-permanent camp at Bonita Canyon. The troop was given this mission: to guard the water source; to prevent Apache renegades from escaping to Mexico through the canyon; to act as couriers for the southern mail service out of Fort Bowie; and to protect the local ranchers from Indian attack. Later joined by Troop E, the original detachment to have camped there, the ranks grew to almost 100 men and a similar number of horses. These numbers diminished in April 1886 when Troop I, with a strength of about 50 men, relieved Troops E and H. After a year of uneventful duty at Bonita Canyon, the soldiers abandoned the camp on September 15, 1886; Geronimo had surrendered and the Arizona Indian Wars had ended.34
Undoubtedly the proximity of the military camp had a significant impact on the Staffords' daily life. Apart from the supposed shooting incident at the cabin, Ja Hu Stafford reportedly sold produce to the encampment. His daughter Clara recalled that Ja Hu "sold vegetables to the Negro soldiers who were camped . . . right across Newton Creek there from [what later became] Faraway [Ranch] . . . ."35
Four years after the 10th Cavalry left, Bonita Canyon experienced an Indian scare when "Big Foot" Massai, a Chiricahua Apache who had escaped from a train deporting Chiricahuas to Florida in 1886, appeared up the canyon accompanied by his pregnant wife. Neil Erickson, the Staffords' neighbor from 1888 to 1918, wrote an account of the story in his memoirs many years later:
Stafford found that one of his horses had been stolen from his pasture; Massai was pursued but apparently escaped to Mexico after safely depositing his pregnant wife at the San Carlos Reservation to the north. Stafford's horse was eventually found and returned later that year. In one of Erickson's accounts (Erickson's story appeared in numerous versions in the press) he described Mary Fife as an employee of the Staffords; in another account, a Mrs. Fife served as a nearby midwife. Mrs. Fife may have been the mother of Mary, a young unmarried girl.36
Civilization crept closer to Bonita Canyon in August of 1887 when the government established Brannock post office on the Riggs Home Ranch at the forks of Pinery and Bonita Creeks. Brannick Riggs, the pioneer neighbor of the Staffords, became the first appointed postmaster (the postal office inadvertently misspelled the name as "Brannock"). Until 1887 the Staffords had traveled to Dos Cabezos, some 20 miles away, for mail. Brannick and Mary Riggs established a private school at their ranch, which circa 1886 became part of a new El Dorado School District #16. Within a few years the district constructed a schoolhouse closer, to Bonita Canyon, where all of the Stafford children attended school.37
The permanent settlement of Neil and Emma Erickson in the summer of 1888 gave a new dimension to pioneer life in Bonita Canyon. The Ericksons claimed the next homestead to the west in 1886 and moved into a three-room house only a quarter-mile walk from the Staffords' cabin in 1888. The Ericksons brought with them a baby girl, Lillian, and during the first half of the 1890s they had two more children at Bonita Canyon, providing playmates for the Stafford youngsters. Erickson, a Swedish immigrant carpenter, had been a U.S. Army cavalry trooper stationed at Fort Craig, New Mexico Territory, when he met Emma in 1883. After his discharge they married and filed for the Bonita Canyon homestead, which Neil visited sporadically to work on the land and existing dwelling, the one reportedly built by Newton and later used by Captain Charles L. Cooper and his family as a dwelling during the "Buffalo Soldier" days. The couple and their daughter Lillian, born at Fort Bowie on February 9, 1888, moved to Bonita Canyon permanently in the summer of 1888.
That Christmas the Ericksons brought a new life to the little valley. Emma Erickson later wrote:
After that Emma had yearly Christmas parties, which got so large that they eventually had to be held at the El Dorado schoolhouse. She distributed gifts to families all over the area. Emma also reportedly taught the neighbor women to preserve fruits and vegetables.39
Pauline Stafford's letters to her sister Clara in Utah provided a vivid look into the home life in the cabin during the 1880s and 1890s. The family was poor, having a double burden of many children and limited opportunities for income. For some time Pauline had her sister Clara buy shoes in Utah for the family for two dollars a pair; in one letter she asked her sister to buy an extra pair for "little Thomas, as the ones he is wearing are looking rather shabby and will not last long"; she asked Clara to loan the two dollars as a favor because "Mr. Stafford" would only let her send "2 dollars, all the money we could spare at present."40
Nevertheless the children received some presents, as Pauline wrote in thanks to Clara, adding a slice of home life in Bonita Canyon in 1894:
In an earlier letter, dated September 5, 1892, Pauline writes of some dissatisfaction in the rough life at the homestead:
Nevertheless, Stafford and his family stayed on at Bonita Canyon for another 25 years.
The year 1894 found Pauline pregnant for the seventh time. In a letter from Pauline to sister Clara, dated July 22, arrangements are being made for "Aunt Clara" to come to Bonita Canyon, a visit that Pauline desperately needed:
Evidently sister Clara did not arrive; Pauline died in childbirth on August 26. Ja Hu buried her in the community cemetery near the mouth of Bonita Canyon. The baby survived for what may have been many months, under the care or neglect of his father.42
Family stories abound about the circumstances surrounding the unnamed baby's life and death. Stafford's granddaughter Naomi Moore related this popular version in an oral history:
Stafford's daughter Clara provided her interpretation of the incident:
Stafford's granddaughter Helen Kenney related that Mrs. Barfoot from a nearby ranch took the baby for a while until Stafford took him back.44
Stafford found himself a widower with five children. Pansy, the oldest, left to work as a housekeeper in Willcox soon after her mother's death; later she went to school and worked in Bisbee, where she met her future husband. The other children helped as much as they could. Perhaps of the greatest help was their close neighbor, Emma Erickson, who had three of her own children. A Stafford family member described the situation:
Stafford's daughter Clara, who was only two when her mother died, recalled:
The Stafford children, even the later grandchildren, referred to her as Mother Erickson, or Grandmother Erickson. The Stafford children also contributed a great deal to the survival of the family. According to Clara, "Mother was always quite a good dressmaker. She sewed and everything for us and when Mother died . . . Anna Mae was only about 8-9 years old . . . and she took up sewing right away and she sewed for us because there were . . . 3 little girls . . . . Poppa didn't have enough for all of us anyhow and [Pansy] ran into Willcox and got her . . . a housekeeping job as a maid . . . . She come home every so often and bring us some little thing and made us . . . so happy." Stafford kept the farm operating yet still watched the children and taught them the ways of pioneer life as he knew them. Clara later told how "Poppa was really a wonderful person. He took care of us when we were little, [and] he taught me how to shoot when I was 5 years old . . . we lived so much on wildlife, on wild things like squirrels and rabbits, better than things we could get in the line of meat . . . "46
While Stafford is remembered fondly by his daughter, she told of his difficult side as well:
Stafford ordered a mail order bride and was married on August 23, 1898 in Tombstone. In his excitement he reportedly had his hair and beard dyed to hide their whiteness. The new bride, Carrie Goddard of Missouri, found herself faced with a sixty-two year-old widower with four or five children, all living in a two-room log cabin on the edge of a desert wasteland; she soon returned alone to her home state.48
Late in the century Stafford made a major improvement on the cabin. In a photograph dating from about 1898, Stafford stood on the roof of a shed or lean-to addition on the west side of the cabin, apparently nailing shakes, while four of the children (Pansy was absent) stood behind a large pile of lumber. The addition was of vertical board and batten, with a window on the south side and a door on the west side visible in the photograph. The addition appeared to be almost completed, yet a large pile of lumber remains. Possibly Stafford used the lumber to construct a larger addition to the cabin a few years later. Stafford may have purchased the lumber from the Riggs sawmill in Pinery (or Pine) Canyon, or salvaged the lumber from Fort Bowie, which had been abandoned in 1894. A number of nearby residents obtained construction materials from the vacated buildings at the fort. These materials could have been used to build the third addition, or "ell", on the cabin some years later. This addition, the last made while the Staffords owned the homestead, was a rectangular frame room with board-and-batten sides. Placed on the north end of the cabin, it gave the home an "L" shape and appears to have almost doubled the size of the dwelling. It is estimated that Stafford constructed this last addition about 1900, when he was still in good health and four children remained at home.49
In 1898 and 1899, Neil Erickson wrote in his diaries of planting beans and sweet corn in Stafford's field; either Stafford no longer used the gardens or Erickson helped Stafford with the work at times, or the two shared the field. Also, Erickson noted the presence of a flume on the other side of the creek; where this flume was located or whether this supplied Stafford's land is unknown.50
Bonita Canyon residents traveled to Dos Cabezas, Willcox, and other Cochise County towns for postal services (the Brannick post office had a short life) and/or merchandise. After the smelter town of Douglas was platted in the southeast corner of the Arizona Territory in 1901, much of Bonita Canyon's commerce shifted there, although slowly. The El Paso and Southwestern Railroad passed through Douglas, and the Bonita Canyon families appeared to have traveled more often to the new town by the 1920s.51
Ja Hu Stafford reached the age of sixty-six at the turn of the century. Tax and voter records of Cochise County indicate some gaps in Stafford's activities after that; for instance, he did not register to vote in either 1906 or 1908, after years of faithful registration. In 1910, because of failing health, Stafford gave his daughter Clara control of the ranch. The older girls had left home by then and Stafford's only son, Tom, went to Illinois for a year in 1911 to work in a cousin's apple orchard, and again in 1914.52
Clara Stafford, youngest daughter of Ja Hu and Pauline, had been attending Tempe Normal School, but she gave up her education in 1910 and returned to Bonita Canyon to help her aged father. A few years earlier, at age 15, she had registered brands for cattle and horses in her name. Her brand, a four over a seven ( ) in addition to earmarks, became the Stafford ranch brand. The Stafford livestock grazed in the canyon, on public range in the Sulphur Spring Valley and, as they had since about 1894, in the lands above the ranch in the Chiricahua National Forest. Their neighbor, Neil Erickson, acted as forest ranger for the west district of the Chiricahua National Forest, this district containing the area adjacent to and including much of Bonita Canyon; the ranger station stood just over the fence from the Staffords' orchard.53
In early March, 1911, Forest Supervisor Arthur H. Zachau wrote to Erickson from headquarters in Portal, Arizona:
Within two weeks Clara submitted an application for a grazing permit for ten head of cattle and five horses, for the period of March 16, 1911 to March 15, 1912, in the area of Bonita Canyon, Newton Creek, and head of Picket Canyon to the north of the Stafford homestead. She declared that the Staffords had two acres of improved farm land on the "home ranch" and 150 acres of summer and winter grazing land, and owned a total of sixteen head of cattle and eight horses, ranged during the winter "on my homestead and Forest lands adjacent thereto and on public range in Sulphur Spring Valley." She also declared that the Staffords had regularly used range in the Chiricahua National Forest during the past nineteen years, although not last season. In June, 1911, Clara paid a grazing fee of $5.50 for 24 head of livestock that "will be grazed on the range located 5/8 within the National Forest." Clara had Picket and Little Picket Canyons fenced with wire strand stapled to trees in early 1913 to accommodate provisions of the permit.55
The number of Clara's livestock fluctuated over the next few years, according to her lease records. Her herd increased to 30 head of cattle and 10 horses in 1912, then up to 35 cattle by 1915; the improved land at the farm increased in acreage from two acres in 1911 to three acres in 1912, up to ten acres in 1915. By this time Tom Stafford had returned to the ranch with his new wife Nora, and may have been responsible for the sudden growth of the farm and ranch; Tom took responsibility for the permit applications, although they were still held in Clara's name. Nora Stafford later recalled the large orchard at the homestead, with pears, plums, peaches and "the best apples you ever ate in your life." Tom and Nora Stafford lived in the log cabin for almost a year and a half, from the time of Clara's marriage in August of 1914, until moving to their own homestead near Pearce, Arizona, at the first of the year, 1916.56
Meanwhile, Ja Hu Stafford died at age 79 on Friday, November 14, 1913, apparently of natural causes. The obituary in the valley's newspaper referred to Stafford as "a well known pioneer of the Chiricahuas." The family buried Stafford in the community cemetery near the mouth of Bonita Canyon, next to his wife, Pauline.57
Clara, who had married Wilber B. Wheeler, the Methodist minister who had presided at her father's funeral, acted as executrix of the estate. The Wheelers lived in Cochise, Duncan and Cashion, Arizona after their marriage on August 5, 1914. Except for five dollars left to Stafford's three grandchildren from his previous marriage, the estate went to Clara, who had taken care of her father in his old age. The inheritance consisted of $165 in cash, $826 in personal property, and real estate (the homestead) valued at $1,144,00.58
Supposedly because of a dry winter and poor grazing conditions, Clara Stafford Wheeler sold about half of her cattle in October of 1915 to George Henshaw of Cochise, then filed a waiver of grazing privileges. Wilber Wheeler apparently had a dispute with the Forest Supervisor about whether his wife should pay grazing fees since the cows had been sold. This blew up into charges and counter-charges in letters between Wheeler and Supervisor Arthur Zachau that drew neighbor Ranger Neil Erickson into the fray.59
In a letter to the District Forester in Albuquerque, Zachau outlined Wheeler's complaints:
Both Zachau and Erickson countered the charges in separate letters. Zachau noted that the "lessee" was Clara's brother Tom, to whom she had turned over the ranch after her marriage to Wheeler, and that Tom "was in complete charge of the place and was recognized by Ranger Erickson and myself [Zachau] as her representative so far as dealings with the Forest are concerned." Zachau was puzzled by the charge that the "lessee" was using grazing privileges without permission, since the "lessee" was Tom Stafford and the cattle belonged to Clara. He also disputed the claims that the allotment was overgrazed and that the water supply, from Bonita Creek, was impaired; in fact, it had been a dry winter and "if Mr. Wheeler's water supply was lower last year than usual, it must be attributed to an Act of Providence. The very same thing happened in a good many other localities on and near the Forest."61
Of the greatest controversy was the charge that the Ericksons coveted the Stafford homestead. The Acting District Forester, E. N. Kavanagh, also appeared to be alarmed at the possibility that Forest Ranger Erickson or members of his family wanted to use Forest lands for grazing, a practice that is "frowned upon throughout the Service."62
Zachau responded that Wheeler's claims were unfounded, and that because of the Ericksons' recent major improvements to their house they could not afford to purchase the Stafford homestead. Also, the Ericksons had transferred their "few" cattle to their son Ben.63 Neil Erickson responded to Wheeler's charges in a letter that provides an interesting, although one-sided, history of the dispute, and some insight into later developments:
To further confuse the issue, one document stated that Clara Stafford shared her grazing allotment with Lillian Erickson. Apparently the Ericksons had indeed been grazing in the Forest lands. Whether there was any resolution to the charges is not known. Meanwhile, in February of 1916, Clara applied for another grazing lease for twenty head of cattle, presumably a new herd, or at least the remainder of her previous one. Erickson revealed in his letter that his daughter Lillian had an interest in purchasing the Stafford homestead as early as 1915. Lillian, working as a schoolteacher in Bowie, had the reputation of being aggressive and energetic, a forward-thinking and perhaps somewhat liberated young woman. On April 22, 1918, Lillian Erickson purchased the 160-acre Stafford homestead from Wilber B. Wheeler and Clara Stafford Wheeler for $5,000. The parties arranged terms of $800 down, with yearly payments of $400 the first year, $500 the next, then two payments of $1650; when $2500 had been paid, the Wheelers would deliver the deed and take back a mortgage for the unpaid balance. Miss Erickson made the down payment and the first installment, but could not raise the money for the next four payments, although she apparently paid the interest. By this time the Wheelers had moved to Texas, and after the payments fell into arrears the parties renegotiated the transaction in February of 1923 for $4,000; the terms were paid off by June 15, 1928.65
The sale to Lillian Erickson brought to a close the Stafford era at the cabin and the demise of the homestead, and marked the beginning of many significant physical changes to the Stafford cabin itself.
According to family reminiscences, Lillian Erickson purchased the Stafford homestead in partnership with her younger sister, Hildegard, although the deeds name only Lillian. Lillian herself wrote that "Hildegard and I decided to buy the Stafford place." They had an agreement that if one of them married or moved away the other would take over payments and eventual ownership. According to family letters, they paid for the land with Lillian's teaching wages, a bank loan, profits from early guests, and probably income from their cattle. Even before the purchase the two young women had developed an idea of operating a guest ranch in Bonita Canyon.67
Lillian and Hildegard's parents left the area for ten years when Neil Erickson was transferred to Cochise Stronghold in 1917 to act as District Ranger of the Dragoon and Whetstone Mountain areas; he was eventually assigned to Walnut Canyon National Monument near Flagstaff. The sisters considered their options at the ranch. Lillian had the highest interest in horses and cattle, and Hildegard had been inviting her young friends for weekend stays at the ranch. In 1917 Hildegard had an idea to invite paying guests. After experimenting with short stays from people in the surrounding area her confidence increased. Soon she began hosting visitors for a week or more, feeding them and offering horseback trips into the Chiricahua Mountains and its "Wonderland of Rocks." Eventually Lillian retired from teaching and joined the operation, which soon developed into a modestly busy guest ranch business.68
In her own words Hildegard described the embryonic stage of the guest ranch:
The guest ranch operations revolved around the Ericksons' large house, a two-story adobe brick structure that had evolved from a small pioneer cabin on the Ericksons' circa 1888 homestead claim. Lillian and Hildegard named it Faraway Ranch, reportedly an idea of Lillian's, who said it was "so god-awful far away from everything." The name was not new to the area, though; a map drawn by Neil Erickson an March 5, 1915, names a "Faraway Point" nearby. Later accounts state that Neil Erickson did not like having the name applied to his ranch.70
Within a few years Lillian found herself operating Faraway Ranch by herself. As of 1921 her parents were stationed at Flagstaff; Hildegard married in 1920 and moved away. No doubt it was a trying time for Lillian. She later wrote to her father, "With you and mama in Flagstaff, Hildegard married, and myself tied up with notes and the determination to pay out the Stafford place, there seemed nothing else to do but stick or die." Between 1924 and 1927 Ja Hu Stafford's son, Tom, and his wife Nora worked occasionally at Faraway Ranch, she as a cook and baker and he as a gardener and cowboy. The Stafford cabin found use for guests, relatives, friends and employees.71
Major development of Faraway Ranch and regular use of the Stafford cabin did not begin until after Lillian Erickson's 1923 marriage to Ed Riggs, a widower with two children and former neighbor whom she had known since childhood. Lillian and Ed returned from their honeymoon and announced plans for "extensive building improvements," not only to the main ranch house but to the surrounding land including the Stafford homestead. The Riggses carried out numerous improvements from 1924 through the 1930s and early 1940s, including work on the Stafford cabin.72
Some time between 1925 and 1927 Riggs detached and moved the third addition to the cabin to a location to the southwest across the small valley, using log rollers. A school occupied that building in 1927-1929, and in later years it was named Mizar and used as a rental cottage. Probably during this time Stafford's second addition to the log cabin, the shed porch on the west side, was removed and rebuilt as an open porch facing west; a small section on the north end of the porch was enclosed, possibly for a bathroom. Ed Riggs and some hired help built a fieldstone chimney with a brick lined fireplace on the south end of the original (south) room, which required removal of a window. Riggs installed running water and a toilet in the cabin some time after April, 1939.73
Ja Hu Stafford's granddaughter, Helen Amalong (Kenney), a daughter of Ruby Stafford Amalong, worked for the Riggses as a waitress during the late 1920s and early 1930s. She recalled a blacksmith shop still standing to the east of the cabin, as well as a corral. Stafford's circa 1898 lean-to addition on the west side of the cabin had been opened as a porch, and no other porch existed on the east side. The stone-curbed well still existed in the kitchen, but was later floored over. At the time she worked there the garage addition had yet to be built. Principally male guests and survey crews stayed in the cabin during those years.74
At an unknown date the cabin's interior was paneled with plasterboard, probably after April, 1939, although the work could have happened as early as 1927, when Ed Riggs purchased a large amount of construction materials including celotex, windows, roofing, beaverboard, plumbing, and cement. That year a nearby newspaper noted that "cabins have been constructed near the house, containing five bedrooms [with] carbide lamps in the main house and lamps in the cottages." The Riggses named these cabins Alcor and Space, along with Mizar, the removed section of the Stafford cabin.75
With such improvements the Stafford cabin became a regular and important part of the guest ranch, where by 1942 a number of guest facilities had been built or improved. Guests at the cabin could purchase meals at the main house or cook for themselves. In one 1963-1965 brochure Faraway Ranch manager Frank W. Sullivan advertised "a limited number of modern furnished cottages are available for light housekeeping," and added, "we are compelled to exclude persons with communicable diseases."76
An early rate card, issued about 1928, listed "one log cabin, partly furnished, $1.00 per day; $20 per month. Accommodates four." The cabin, by this time, was available for short-term or long-term rental. A billhead from 1928 noted that eight workmen stayed in the cabin for ten days and paid $80.00 plus tax. Rate cards from the 1940s revealed changing prices and policies:
The meals, usually prepared under Lillian's supervision, were served in the main house's closed in porch which contained the famous Garfield fireplace, built from inscribed stones that had been made into a monument by the Cavalry troops in 1886 on what was to become the Erickson homestead. Indications are that the meals were good but the portions watched closely by the thrifty Lillian Erickson Riggs. When Mrs. Riggs sold 80 acres of the Stafford Homestead to Silver Spur Ranch, Inc. in 1945 she reportedly agreed that meals would not be served at Faraway Ranch for ten years. A newspaper announced in 1952 that no meals would be served at Faraway Ranch.77
At unknown dates the Stafford cabin received further remodeling. Probably about 1940 the Riggses built a board-and-batten garage, measuring twelve by eighteen feet, at the northwest corner of the cabin on the site of the third addition which had been moved away. The west porch was enclosed some time before 1947 and remodeled into a kitchenette. An open porch was built on the east side running the length of the cabin. A concrete slab formed the floor of the porch and acted as a foundation for the five two-by-six support posts. No dates are known for these additions, although Rose Bree of Willcox, once an in-law of the Staffords, recalled no open porch on the cabin when she visited with her husband in 1946. Helen Kenney recalled that the porch was a much later addition. A clue appeared in a rate sheet dated 1946, that stated: "2 room house, with fire-place, combined kitchen and dinette; bath and porches, garage, $20.00 per wk; $60.00 per month." This indicated that the garage and kitchenette were in place; the "porches" could include the long porch accessed from the two doors on the east side.78
An inventory of furnishings in the log cabin that detailed the amenities in the cabin as of June, 1947 showed that the cabin's furnishings had been improved during the last year. The living room, or original room of the pioneer log cabin, contained a rug, four chairs including two rockers, a covered table and bookrack, a lamp and curtains, in addition to a single bed. The bedroom, or second room of the pioneer cabin, contained a double bed (later described as a metal four-poster) and a single bed, two rugs, two chairs, a dresser and mirror, and window and door coverings. The dinette, or the lean-to on the west side of the cabin, contained a table, chair and bench, stove and refrigerator, as well as numerous utensils, pots, dishes, and towels. A washstand and bench stood in the hallway and the bathroom featured a shower. Lillian Riggs kept this inventory to keep track of any breakage or theft, and warned the guests that "any damage or breakage of above items is to be paid for, or items replaced."79
Guests came and went at the cabin. Business at Faraway Ranch fluctuated; if the rental records in the Faraway Ranch Papers are indeed complete, the cabin was vacant much of the time, although Faraway Ranch received some national publicity and advertised in many periodicals and newspapers. Historian Richard Y. Murray has explained that, "sometimes folks like G. Fred and Lorraine Santini of New York rented [the cabin] on a long-term basis during part of the 1960s so it would be guaranteed available when they would visit on vacations."80
At times the owners' relatives occupied the cabin. Ben Erickson, Lillian's brother, lived in the cabin on two different occasions: in 1946 with his first wife Belle (who died in 1955), and in 1959-60 with his new wife, Ethel. Murray Riggs, Ed Riggs' son by a previous marriage, lived there for two months in 1950; his wife Anne later commented wryly on the miserable condition of the cabin during their stay, saying that "you didn't have to take a shower because the rain came through the roof every time it rained . . . ."81
Ed Riggs died in 1950, and by that time Lillian Riggs had become blind from glaucoma. Managers took care of many of the day-to-day duties yet Mrs. Riggs kept firm control. The cabin continued to be occasionally rented out into the early 1970s. Darla Masterson, an artist who rented the cabin for ten months in 1961, enthusiastically recalled her experiences there:
Lillian Riggs subdivided the old Stafford property twice during her ownership. In September, 1945, she sold 80-acres of the property to a group of investors who created the Silver Spur Ranch at the east end of the old Stafford homestead; this property was eventually sold to Ray and Ruth Kent. In 1950 she divided the remaining Stafford land into two parcels, one of which she sold on May 5, 1955, to C. Theodore and Pauline Kraft; this parcel was then sold to William F. and Mary Frances Stark in 1964. The remaining 53.96 acres Mrs. Riggs retained as part of Faraway Ranch; this parcel contained the Stafford Cabin.83
The National Park Service began to add the historic Stafford homestead into Chiricahua National Monument on December 20, 1967, when the 80-acre Silver Spur Guest Ranch was purchased from Silver Spur Ranch, Inc. Next, the Park Service bought the Stark parcel of 26.04 acres, on December 19, 1968. A day later, on December 20, Lillian Erickson Riggs sold 47.9 acres of the Stafford homestead, including the Stafford cabin and remains of the orchard. Mrs. Riggs sold the remaining 6.06 acres to the National Park Service on October 8, 1974.84
In late 1974 or early 1975 Lillian Erickson Riggs entered a rest home in Willcox, leaving management of Faraway Ranch to her longtime foreman and companion, Andy Anderson. By this time the era of the guest ranch at Bonita Canyon was over. Mrs. Riggs died on April 26, 1977 at the age of 89. After Mrs. Riggs's death the National Park Service began dealing with the heirs of the Ericksons towards the purchase of Faraway Ranch. The Erickson heirs preferred that the ranch be preserved and supported the park purchase, although Ben Erickson and Hildegarde Erickson Hutchison died before the transaction could be completed. Congress authorized the park expansion by public law 95-625 on November 10, 1978; the federal government purchased the property on July 27, 1979, and later purchased the historic furnishings and family papers. One of the last notes in the Faraway Ranch Papers concerned the Stafford cabin's closure:
chir/stafford-cabin/sec2.htm Last Updated: 25-Aug-2008 |