CRATER LAKE Rules and Regulations 1920

CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION.

CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK is in the very heart of the Cascade Range in southern Oregon. It has an area of 249 square miles, or 159,360 acres, and was set apart from the public domain and dedicated as a park on May 22, 1902.

Crater Lake, itself, is a body of water of unbelievable blue occupying the crater of an extinct volcano. In this neighborhood the Cascades merge into a broad, irregular platform surmounted by volcanic cones. The cones vary greatly in size and are distributed without regularity. Each has been an active volcano. The fragments, blown out by violent eruption, have fallen upon the volcanic orifice from which they issued, and built up cinder cones.

MOUNT MAZAMA RESTORED.

From their bases have spread streams of lava (coulees), raising the general level of the country between the cones. From some vents by many eruptions, both explosive and effusive, large cones, like McLoughlin, Shasta, and Hood, have been built up. Were we to examine their internal structure, exposed in the walls of the canyons carved in their slopes, we should find them composed of overlapping layers of lava and volcanic conglomerate. But to this general form of volcanic architecture there was an exception. One of the very largest of these ancient volcanoes was Mount Mazama, which lifted its majestic cone nearly to the height of Mount Rainier, 300 miles to the north.

But this was ages ago. No human eyes ever saw Mount Mazama. Long before man came the entire upper part of it in some titanic cataclysm fell in upon itself as if swallowed by a subterranean cavern, leaving its craterlike lava sides cut sharply downward into the central abyss.

What a spectacle that must have been!

The first awful depth of this vast hole no man can guess. But the volcano was not quenched. It burst up through the collapsed lavas in three places, making lesser cones within the crater, but none quite so high as the surrounding rim.

Then the fires ceased and gradually, as the years passed, springs percolated into the vast basin and precipitation, in the form of snow, filled it with water within a thousand feet of its rim.

This is Crater Lake.

To-day one small cone emerges a few hundred feet from the surface. The lake is 2,000 feet deep in places. It has no inlet of any sort, nor is there any stream running out of it; but the water is supposed to escape by underground channels and to reappear as springs in the Klamath region, a few miles away.

Geologists find Crater Lake of special interest because of the way nature made it. Many volcanoes have had their tops blown off and Mount Rainier was one of these, but no other in the United States has fallen in like Mount Mazama.

The evidence of this process is quite conclusive. The lava found on the slopes that remain was not blown there from an exploding summit, but ran, hot and fluid, from a crater many thousands of feet higher. The pitch of these outer slopes enables the scientist to tell with reasonable probability how high the volcano originally was.

There are crater lakes in other lands; in Italy, for instance, in Germany, India, and Hawaii; and although there are thousands of craters in this country, some of which contain small lakes, there is but one great caldera in the world and that contains Crater Lake.

Approaching the lake the observer sees a broad cluster of gentle peaks rising about 1,000 feet above the general crest of the range on which they stand. The way winds over a large moraine littered with lava bowlders and well studded with firs. Arriving at the crest, the lake in all its majestic beauty comes suddenly upon the scene, and is profoundly impressive.

"The lake?" wrote Joaquin Miller in the Sunset Magazine, "The Sea of Silence? Ah, yes, I had forgotten—so much else; besides, I should like to let it alone, say nothing. It took such hold on my heart, so unlike Yosemite, Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, when first seen, that I love it almost like one of my own family. But fancy a sea of sapphire set around by a compact circle of the great grizzly rock of Yosemite. It does not seem so sublime at first, but the mote is in your own eye. It is great, great; but it takes you days to see how great. It lies 2,000 feet under your feet, and as it reflects its walls so perfectly that you can not tell the wall from the reflection in the intensely blue water you have a continuous unbroken circular wall of 24 miles to contemplate at a glance, all of which lies 2,000 feet, and seems to lie 4,000 feet, below. Yet so bright, so intensely blue is the lake, that it seems at times, from some points of view, to lift right in your face."

AN UNFORGETABLE SPECTACLE.

Crater Lake is one of the most beautiful spots in America. The gray lava rim is remarkably sculptured. The water is wonderfully blue, a lovely turquoise along the edges, and in the deep parts, seen from above, extremely dark. The contrast on a sunny day between the unreal, fairylike rim across the lake and the fantastic sculptures at one's feet, and, in the lake between, the myriad gradations from faintest turquoise to deepest Prussian blue, dwells long in the memory.

Unforgetable also are the twisted and contorted lava formations of the inner rim. A boat ride along the edge of the lake reveals these in a thousand changes. At one point near shore a mass of curiously carved lava is called the Phantom Ship because, seen at a distance, it suggests a ship under full sail. The illusion at dusk or by moonlight is striking. In certain slants of light the Phantom Ship suddenly disappears—a phantom indeed.

Another experience full of interest is a visit to Wizard Island. One can climb its sides and descend into its little crater.

The somewhat mysterious beauty of this most remarkable lake is by no means the only charm of the Crater Lake National Park. The surrounding cliffs present some of the most striking pictures of the entire western country. These can best be studied from a boat on the lake, but walking upon the rim of the lake is one of the most wonderful experiences possible.

The motor road around the rim, which has been under construction for four years, is now completed. It is easily one of the greater scenic highways of the world. The motorist looks down on the one side upon the lake disclosed in complete detail from every point of view, and out on the other side over an ever-changing panorama of Cascade Mountain scenery. At many points he may park his car and clamber as he pleases among the rocks and over the precipices of the lake's deep gulf.

All park approaches connect with the rim road, which is 35 miles in length.

HOW IT WAS DISCOVERED.¹

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¹The Indian legend.—According to the legend of the Klamath and Modoc Indians the mystic land of Gaywas was the home of the great god Llao. His throne in the infinite depths of the blue waters was surrounded by giant crawfish, his warriors, who were able to lift great claws out of the water and seize too venturesome enemies on the cliff tops.

War broke out with Skell, the god of the neighboring Klamath marshes. Skell was captured and his heart used for a ball by Llao's monsters. But an eagle, one of Skell's servants, captured it in flight, and a coyote, another of Skell's servants, escaped with it; and Skell's body grew again around his living heart. Once more he was powerful and once more he waged war against the God of the Lake.

Then Llao was captured; but he was not so fortunate. Upon the highest cliff his body was quartered and cast into the lake and eaten by his own monsters under the belief that it was Skell's body. But when Llao's head was thrown in, the monsters recognized it and would not eat it.

Llao's head still lies in the lake, and white men call it Wizard Island. And the cliff where Llao was quartered is named Llao Rock.

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This lake was not discovered until 1853. Eleven Californians had undertaken once more the search for the famous, perhaps fabulous, Lost Cabin mine. For many years parties had been searching the Cascades; again they had come into the Klamath region. With all their secrecy their object became known, and a party of Oregonians was hastily organized to stalk them and share their find. The Californians discovered the pursuit and divided their party. The Oregonians did the same. It became a game of hide and seek. When provisions were nearly exhausted and many of both parties had deserted, they joined forces.

"Suddenly we came in sight of water," writes J. W. Hillman, then the leader of the combined party. "We were much surprised, as we did not expect to see any lakes and did not know but that we had come in sight of and close to Klamath Lake. Not until my mule stopped within a few feet of the rim of Crater Lake did I look down, and if I had been riding a blind mule I firmly believe I would have ridden over the edge to death."

It is interesting that the discoverers quarreled on the choice of a name, dividing between Mysterious Lake and Deep Blue Lake. The advocates of Deep Blue Lake won the vote, but in 1869 a visiting party from Jacksonville renamed it Crater Lake, and this, by natural right, became its title.

SEEING CRATER LAKE.

The visitor reaches the rim of the lake at Crater Lake Lodge. Here begins the Rim Road which encircles the lake, and from which any point on the rim may be comfortably reached. The large area north of the lake which it is proposed to add to the park is entered from this road. It includes beautiful Diamond Lake, Mount Thielsen, and other scenic features of national importance.

CAMPING OUT ON THE RIM.

The public camp grounds on the rim west of the lodge have been greatly improved. A large tank and pumping equipment furnishes an ample water supply for all purposes.

TRAILS TO THE LAKESIDE AND ELSEWHERE.

The splendid new trail from Crater Lake Lodge to the shore of the lake has given pleasure and refreshment to thousands, and, as was expected, elderly people and visitors wholly unaccustomed to climbing availed themselves of the opportunity to make the delightful trip from the lodge to the edge of the lake, thence in motor boats around the lake to Wizard Island and the Phantom Ship, and to other points of interest. The trails to Garfield Peak and the Watchman are also exceedingly popular. There are also trails to Union Peak, Crater Peak, and Sun Notch, all of which are well patronized, especially to Sun Notch where close view of the Phantom ship may be obtained.

Wild animals are taking refuge in the park in greater numbers, thus adding to the attractiveness of the place for national park visitors, who generally expect to see animals and birds flourishing in all of the parks. Bears were very numerous last season; they visited the lodge and construction camps almost daily. One of them got a habit of breaking into buildings and nothing could stop him; of course he had to be killed. The park, however, is too small to become a satisfactory game refuge and propagating ground, and it will always be necessary to have State game preserves established around part or all of the park in order that winter range may be provided for the animals when heavy snows drive them down from the higher altitudes.

UNUSUAL FISHING.

This magnificent body of cold, fresh water originally contained no fish of any kind; however, rainbow and black-spotted trout have been planted at various times. It is now well stocked and the fishing is excellent. Anglers of experience in western fishing testify that, pound for pound, the rainbow trout taken in the cold, deep waters of the Crater Lake are the hardest fighting trout of all.

In Crater Lake 5 fish per person per day, and in all other waters 20 fish per person per day, constitute a day's catch. In all waters of the park the fishing season is from July 1 to September 30 unless otherwise ordered by the superintendent.

NOTES ON THE WILD FLOWERS.¹

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¹By Albert R. Sweetser, Professor of Botany, University of Oregon.

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If one enters the park by the usual gateways and travels the beaten paths he is likely to be disappointed in the flowers, especially when compared with the wonderful display to be seen in some of the other national reservations.

The soil is chiefly volcanic and lacking in moisture and so perforce the plant life must be limited to those forms whose peculiar structure adapts them to such environment. Whenever the highway enters the regions of the streams the eye is gladdened by the transformation due to water's magic touch, and if our interest leads us by winding trail to the mountain meadows beside the singing brooks, there will we find a sight as "Fair as the Garden of the Lord."

Soon after entering, the attention is caught by a flash of red oft repeated which upon closer examination proves to be the funnel-shaped bells of the mountain gilia, Gilia aggregata. The plant is rather tall, and loosely branched, and occasionally has yellow flowers.

Under the evergreen trees hide the prince's pine or chimaphila, a low plant with several dark green leaves oppositely arranged on the stem and a few waxy white flowers on a single stalk. A common associate of this is the tooth-leaf wintergreen, Pyrola dentata. The flower cluster resembles prince's pine, but the leaves form a rosette at the base. In the same locality are found plants without green foliage. One of these is creamy white with a few flowers of the same color, the pine sap; another belonging to the orchid family and having a cluster of reddish green flowers is the coral root; a third has a thick white stem streaked with red, the allotropa. These all are parasites or saprophytes and obtain their food at second hand.

Just before reaching the Government Camp is a meadow on the right of the road; here there are immense quantities of the mountain wild onion, Allium validum. They are rank growers reaching a height of 1 or 2 feet, and are readily known by the strong onion odor.

At the Government Camp is a veritable mountain garden, a riot of the red Indian paint brush, Castilleia; the tall valerian, Valeriana sitchensis, with its flat-topped cluster of white flowers and root with the disagreeable odor of the medicinal valerian; and the false hellebore, Veratrum viride, the large elliptical leaves of which are marked with prominent parallel veins and resemble somewhat in form the wild plantin topped with a cluster of green flowers.

At the top, in loose volcanic ashes, is the low lupine, Lupinus minimus. The beautiful blue flowers catch the eye, and the many-fingered leaves make its identity certain. Another earth-hugging plant is the pussy-paws, Spraguea umbellata. Its little leaves form a rosette from which the flower stalks radiate and bear crowded clusters of papery flowers ranging in color from white through pink or rose to purple. The sun flower family has several representatives, the purple aster, Aster covilli; yellow arnica, a low plant, with heart-shaped leaves; and the Senecio.

As one descends the trail to the lake one of the first plants to attract attention is the trailing raspberry, Rubus lassiococcus. Its leaves form a carpet in the shade while scattered white blossoms, at a hasty glance, give the impression of a strawberry. In similar localities are found the one-sided wintergreen with its greenish flowers all on one side of the stem, Pyrola secunda, and often associated with it the dainty two-leaved orchid with its inconspicuous green flowers, the tway-blade, Listera caurina. Farther down the crater's sides are ablaze with the yellow arnica. and other sunflowers, and at the very bottom the glory of the mountains, the purple monkey flower, Mimulus lewisii, its masses of flowers giving much the impression of the petunia beds of old-fashioned gardens.

Crossing to Wizard Island, near the landing is an abundance of the wild bleeding-heart, Bikukula formosa. A little way up the trail one finds the elephant's head, Pedicularis racemosa, its common name suggested from the resemblance of the flower to the head of an elephant with trunk and ears. At the very top, sending its long root straight down toward the water supply, is the rough mountain dandelion, Hulsea nana. Within the cinder cone is a considerable variety, some of the most striking being red and yellow paintbrush and beard's tongue. Penstemon.

On the Rim Road going toward the Watchman are lupine, pussy-paws, and elephant's head, and phlox. On the sides of the Watchman the most striking plants are the red and yellow paintbrushes, the beard-tongues, and the mountain anemone, Anemone occidentalis, with its broad white flowers and its fruit in the form of soft silky pom-poms.

Around the mountain springs the flowers attain their perfection and run riot. Here is the tall mountain smart-weed, Polyganum bistortoides, a tall slender plant with white flowers, the purple monkey flower, and several species of the yellow; the butterfly tongue, resembling the elephant's head, but with finely divided leaves.

The shooting star or cyclamen, Dodecatheon tetandrum; the rein orchis, with its spike of irregular flowers; the fiat-flowered spiraea, Spiraea arbuscula, and great masses of aster-like flowers make veritable flower beds.