Chapter 8:The National Park (continued)
In reporting on his lengthy encounter with the Nez
Perces, John Shively supplemented the important intelligence of their
status given by Irwin. He said that the camp of 125 lodges numbered 250
warriors, but that the total population was between 600 and 800. There
were two thousand horses, with each lodge's occupants responsible for
its own animals. "Every lodge drives its own horses in front of it when
traveling, . . . [and] the line is thus strung out so that they are
three hours getting into camp." A few Crows had reportedly joined the
body, as well as seventy-five Shoshones under Little Bear. (All of these
people seemingly had left the group before the Nez Perces emerged from
the park into Yellowstone Valley.) Regarding leadership, Shively said
that "no particular chief seemed to be in command," and that "all
matters were decided in a council of several chiefs." He had not
knowingly seen White Bird, but Looking Glass was considered the
"fighting man"; he noted that "Joseph would come in if it was not for
the influences of the others." He described Joseph as "about thirty-five
years of age, six feet high, and always in a pleasant mood, greeting him
each time with a nod and smile. . . . Joseph wears one eagle feather."
Shively further reported that the Nez Perces told him they had lost
forty-three warriors in their battles to date. [49]
The Nez Perces' prolonged contact with Shively and
Irwin represented two of three encounters directly with the main body of
the tribesmen as they passed through the park, the other, as indicated,
being their involvement with the Radersburg party of tourists, beginning
on August 24 in the Lower Geyser Basin. Whereas those with Shively and
Irwin were purposefully and peacefully sustained by the warriors, the
contact with the Radersburg group was briefand violent. Their
experience was also significant because their interrelationship with the
Nez Perces gave knowledge about the tribesmen's early movements in the
park. The Radersburg partyso-called because its members were from
that community between Helena and Three Forks, Montana
Territoryconsisted of nine people: George F. Cowan, his wife Emma,
her brother Frank D. Carpenter, and sister Ida Carpenter, besides
Charles Mann and a young teamster, Henry ("Harry") Meyersall from
Radersburgplus three friends of Frank Carpenter's from Helena,
Andrew J. Arnold, William Dingee, and Albert Oldham. Leaving Radersburg
on August 5, the party had entered the park on the fourteenth via
Henry's Lake, Targhee Pass, and the Madison River and had followed a
road leading to Lower Geyser Basin, finally establishing their permanent
camp on the left bank of Tangled Creek and about one-half mile west of
Fountain Geyser. [50] From that point they
had toured the Upper Geyser Basin, and some of the group had gone over
to see the Lower Falls and Yellowstone Lake. By August 23, the party had
reassembled at the permanent camp, ready to start for home the next day.
Camped nearby was William H. Harmon, a Colorado prospector who was to
experience the subsequent events with the Radersburg party. They had
settled in for the night, not knowing of the capture of John Shively a
mile north of their camp. That night Nez Perce scouts, including Yellow
Wolf, sighted the Cowans' campfire. At about 5:00 a.m. Friday morning,
as Dingee and Arnold prepared breakfast, three tribesmen approached,
dismounted, first identifying themselves as Shoshones ("Snakes") and
then confessing that they were Nez Perces belonging to Looking Glass's
band. They asked about soldiers in the vicinity, saying that they were
friends of white men but would fight the soldiers. As the conversation
continued, more warriors appeared in the distance, some strolling the
adjoining area to watch the geysers. Initially, the Radersburg party,
confronted with the warriors, tried to leave and began packing their
baggage wagon. But the Nez Perce warriors requested food, which Arnold
began to dispense to them until George Cowan intervened, stopped the
disbursement, and probably angered the tribesmen.
Hoping to avoid a serious confrontation, the
tourists, joined by Harmon, harnessed their teams and saddled their four
riding horses, then started down the Firehole with their two wagons (a
double-seated carriage, or spring wagon, and a half spring baggage
wagon) toward where the vast Nez Perce assemblage was moving up the East
Fork of the Fire Hole (present Nez Perce Creek). Frank Carpenter
described the procession:
As far as we could see, up and down the river, they
were moving abreast in an unbroken line ten or fifteen feet deep,
driving ponies and constantly riding out and in the line. We could see
about three miles of Indians, with one thousand or fifteen hundred
ponies, and looking off to the left we could see more Indians looking at
the geysers in Fire Hole Basin. [51]
Close to the mouth of the stream as many as
seventy-five warriors on horseback blocked their way and directed them
to follow the Indians. [52] "Every Indian
carried splendid guns, with belts full of cartridges," remembered Mrs.
Cowan. [53] At this point, Frank Carpenter
demanded to see Looking Glass and was led away from the other members of
the party for that purpose. [54] Two miles
up the creek they came on so much felled timber that the wagon could not
go on, whereon they took some provisions and blankets and headed after
the Nez Perce camp accompanied by the warriors. Other men then tore into
the wagon and its contents, destroying the vehicle by knocking out the
wheel spokes to use in making quirt handles. The team horses were
saddled for Mrs. Cowan and Ida to ride. Six miles farther east, near the
foot of Mary Mountain, the entire body halted to eat, and there the
tourists were reunited with Carpenter. There, Poker Joewho the
Cowan party initially thought was Joseph [55]told them that they would be released if
they traded their horses, arms, and bedding for some of the Nez Perces'
jaded mounts. Captive Charles Mann remembered that, after taking most of
their guns, the Nez Perces "robbed us of what we had left," then began
moving their procession again. [56] Poker
Joe told the captives to go on their way, cautioning them, however, to
get off the trail and into the woods and to beware some younger
troublemakers among the people. "He seemed to act in good faith with
us," recalled Mann. But as they started back, "they discovered that they
were closely followed by forty or fifty of the worst looking warriors in
the band." [57] After laboring among the
fallen trees, however, most of the tourist party returned to the trail
and shortly found themselves surrounded by the warriors, who started
them east to the Nez Perce camp on the pretext that the chiefs wanted to
see them again. Mann suggested that the warriors had become incensed
when two men of the party, Arnold and Dingee, had bolted into the
underbrush at their approach. [58] One or
two miles farther east, at a point just past the earlier meal stop and
at the base of Mary Mountain, the warriors paused the remaining members
of the group and took the balance of their effects. George Cowan and his
wife later described to a reporter what happened next:
These warriors . . . took the party along with them
about one mile where heavy, thick timber was reached. While ascending a
small, sharp knoll in this timber, Mr. Cowan and his wife being in
advance of the other members of the party, . . . two Indians came
dashing down the trail from the front, and, stopping their horses within
about fifteen or twenty steps of Mr. Cowan, one of them raised his rifle
and fired, the ball passing directly through Mr. Cowan's right thigh.
Another Indian who had been riding close to Mr. C. then leveled his gun
on Mr. Cowan's head, but to avoid this shot he slipped from his horse,
and being unable to use the wounded leg, fell to the ground. Mrs. Cowan
was the first person to reach her husband after his fall and was bending
over him, when two Indians who had jumped from their horses came running
up, one of whom asked Mr. Cowan, who had raised up on his elbow, if he
was shot through here pointing to his own breast, and upon being
told no, that he was wounded through the leg, he immediately drew a
large revolver and presented it at Mr. Cowan's head. Mrs. C, observing
the movement threw her arms around her husband's head and her body in
front of his face, shielding him from this shot. The Indian then caught
Mrs. C. by the right hand and attempted to drag her away from her
husband, but she still clung to his neck with her left hand. This
movement gave the second Indian a full view of Mr. Cowan's head, when,
with a quick movement he drew a revolver from beneath his blanket and
fired a shot therefrom which took effect in the upper part of Mr.
Cowan's forehead, rendering him perfectly insensible and oblivious to
everything else that then transpired. [59]
Years later, Emma Cowan recalled looking up just
before the warriors shot her husband in the head: "The holes in those
gun barrels looked as big as saucers." [60]
As the firing broke out, Charles Mann felt a bullet slice through his
hat "without touching my hair." Albert Oldham, meanwhile, had been hit
in the face, the bullet tearing through his cheeks without [major]
injury to his teeth or tongue," but knocking him down. Instantly, he had
turned on his attacker, pointing an empty rifle at him, and the Nez
Perce bolted while Oldham dove into the brush, where he roamed for an
agonizing thirty-six hours sustaining himself on crickets until rescued
by Howard's column. Charles Mann likewise took to the bushes, lying
there for four hours before finding his way back to the Lower Basin camp
and then heading down the Firehole where the army scouts found him the
next day.
Mrs. Cowan and Ida Carpenter went unharmed in the
melee. Frank Carpenter had also run into the brush, but when a warrior
trained his gun on him, he made the sign of the cross and the warrior
did not fire but took him captive. [61]
Henry Meyers and William Harmon both fled into a marsh and hid among the
reeds. Harmon was picked up the next day by Fisher and his scouts on the
Madison six miles below its junction with the Gibbon and Firehole rivers
soon after Mann was found. Harmon, "exhausted from hunger and fatigue,"
the next morning went down to join the command; Mann kept on with the
scouts for four days searching for others of the party. Meanwhile,
Arnold and Dingee, who had initially fled from the warriors, managed to
get away through the woods after abandoning their mounts and eventually
reached the Gibbon River. Henry Meyers found Howard's command at Henry's
Lake and told of the presumed deaths of Cowan and Oldham at the hands of
the Nez Perces. Dingee and Meyers soon departed for their homes via
Virginia City, while Arnold stayed with the command. [62] In fact, George Cowan, having been shot,
had afterwards been nearly brained by a warrior who struck the prostrate
man on the head with a large rock. Left for dead, he came to within
hours of his wounding, tried to stand upright, but was shot
againthis time in the hip by a warrior lingering nearby. Cowan did
not move, and after several Nez Perce men passed by driving horses
without observing him, he waited awhile and then pulled himself along
the ground by his elbows through the stream and along it for a distance
of one-half mile. He alternately crawled and rested and, over the next
four days, traversed about twelve miles. Near the place where the wagons
had been abandoned, Cowan found his bird dog, who stayed with him
through his subsequent journey. At one point in his travail, Cowan saw
Fisher's Bannocks, but fearing they were Nez Perces, he remained hidden.
Finally gaining the camp site at Lower Geyser Basin, he found a dozen
matches, and with potential meat and fire at hand, and strengthened with
some weak coffee he managed to brew in an old fruit can, Cowan rested
overnight, then started back to the mouth of the East Fork of the
Firehole, confident of being rescued. Howard's scouts with "Captain"
Rube Robbins encountered Cowan on August 29 and were able to inform him
that his wife and sister-in-law had been released safely. The next day,
Howard's surgeon treated his wounds. Cowan, Oldham, and Arnold continued
with the troops, but later departed for Bozeman via Mammoth Hot Springs
and Bottler's Ranch. [63]


George and Emma Cowan in 1901, visiting the site in Yellowstone
National Park where George Cowan was left for dead after being
shot. Yellowstone National Park Archives,
Mammoth, Wyo.
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Probably because of the timely intervention of Poker
Joe, the Nez Perces did no further injury to the remainder of the Cowan
party, but kept the two grief-stricken women and Frank Carpenter with
them until the next day. [64] In her
narrative of the event, Mrs. Cowan recounted the passage of the Nez
Perce procession up Mary Mountain on August 24 in a paragraph that
probably described the character of the people's trek through the
park:
Over this mountain range, almost impassable because
of the dense timber, several hundred head of loose horses, pack horses,
camp accoutrements, and the five or six hundred Indians were trying to
force a passage. A narrow trail had sufficed for tourists. It was a feat
few white people could have accomplished without axe or implements of
some sort to cut the way. It required constant watching to prevent the
loose horses from straying away. As it was, many were lost and recovered
by the Bannack Indians [scouts] later. The pack animals also caused
trouble, often getting wedged in between trees. An old squaw would pound
them on the head until they backed out. And such yelling! Their lungs
seemed in excellent condition. [65]
At the camp that night on the east side of Mary Lake,
Emma Cowan noticed that the tribesmen lacked tipis and instead protected
themselves from the cold and rain with pieces of canvas stretched
between poles or over bushes in the form of rude wickiups. [66] Frank Carpenter remembered that the camp
was "on the outer edge of a circular basin about three-fourths of a mile
in circumference" with its perimeter dotted with campfires and in which
many of the horses were corralled. [67]
Carpenter also stated that he met Joseph that evening and that the
Wallowa leader had expressed displeasure with the actions of his kinsmen
in opening fire on the Radersburg people. [68] On August 25, following a council of
leaders, the Nez Perces released Mrs. Cowan and the Carpenters from
their camp on the east side of the Yellowstone above the Mud Volcano.
"We did not want to kill those women," remembered Yellow Wolf. "Ten of
our women had been killed at the Big Hole, and many others wounded. But
the Indians did not think of that at all." [69] Given horses and clothing, and escorted by
Poker Joe to the west bank of the river, the three kept to the timber as
they went along, fearful of encountering more scouting parties. In their
course, they crossed Sulphur Mountain in the evening and night of August
25. On the twenty-sixth, they forded Alum Creek, surmounted Mount
Washburn, and passed through the camping grounds near Tower Fall before
stumbling onto a detachment of Second cavalrymen from Fort Ellis
commanded by Second Lieutenant Charles B. Schofield near present Tower
Junction. The troops escorted the trio to Mammoth Hot Springs, and from
there on August 27 they started down the road to Fort Ellis and Bozeman,
with Emma Cowan eventually to be reunited with her husband following his
own ordeal. [70] In his wire to Gibbon from
Mammoth, Schofield reported intelligence, perhaps gleaned from Mrs.
Cowan and the Carpenters, that the Nez Perces were en route to Wind
River and Camp Brown for supplies; however, the lieutenant offered his
own belief that they were headed for the lower Yellowstone by way of
Clark's Fork. [71]

This stereopticon view of the Radersburg refugees and others at
Bottler's Ranch, en route out of the national park on August 30, 1877,
was taken only five days after the Nez Perces released the Carpenters
and Mrs. Cowan. Left to right, front row: Ida Carpenter, Emma Cowan, and
Frank J. Carpenter. Back row: Packer Boney Ernest, "Texas Jack"
Omuhundro, and Captain Bailey and Mr. Birmingham, both of the British
Army. Calfee and Catlin, photographers; Montana
Historical Society, Helena
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