HISTORICAL BACKGOUND
for the
ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
COLORADO
by
H. E. Rensch
DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION
I. Spanish Expeditions.
"The first explorers of the region now forming the State of Colorado
were probably Spaniards. Claims have been made that Coronado's
expedition of 1540 led through this country", but it is now well
established that he did not touch upon the Colorado territory, although
he did penetrate the present boundaries of Kansas, as well as of
northern New Mexico and Arizona.
According to Alfred B. Thomas, Spaniards of the eighteenth century
were well acquainted with large portions of the region now comprised in
Colorado. It became an outpost of New Mexico, and "Santa Fe was the base
for Colorado as San Augustin was for Georgia. Three interests especially
spurred the New Mexicans to make long journeys northward to the Platte
River, to the upper Arkansas in Central Colorado, and to the Dolores,
Uncomphagre, Gunnison, and Grand Rivers on the western borders. These
interests were Indians, French intruders, and rumored mines. After 1673
reports of French men in the Pawnee country constantly worried officials
at Santa Fe. Frequently tales of gold and silver were wafted southward
to sensitive Spanish ears at the New Mexico capital. But in the main it
was Indians who furnished the immediate motive for long expeditions to
the north." These various Indian tribes in the Colorado area were the
Jicarilla and other Apache bands to the south: the Quartelejo Apaches
(possibly the Arapahos of a later date) to the east; the Pawnees on the
Platte to the northeast; the Commanches to the north and the southwest;
and the Utes to the west. (Thomas, in "Colorado Magazine", November
1924.)
The expedition which marked "the first definitely known penetration
of the Colorado region by Europeans" was that led by Juan de Archuleta
about the middle of the seventeenth century. The Archuleta expedition
went to a spot afterwards known as El Quartelejo in eastern Colorado in
order to bring back some Taos Indians who had fled to this place.
About half a century later, the Indians of the pueblo of Picuries
fled, like those of Taos, to El Quartelejo. In 1706, Juan de Uribarri was
sent, with some 40 Spaniards and 100 Indian allies, to recover them.
"Their route was apparently northeast through Chuchara Pass, west of
Spanish Peaks, then along the eastern foothills of the Greenhorn
Mountains. They seemed to have touched on the Arkansas in the vicinity
of the present site of Pueblo.
"From there, after a short rest, they proceeded east for some five
days, traveling sixty or sixty-five miles to El Quartelejo". (Thomas,
1924, 292-3).
No further penetration of Colorado territory was made until 1719,
when Governor Valverde of New Mexico made an expedition to the Arkansas
to punish the Utes and Commanches who had been making raids upon the
Apaches. This party struck the Arkansas, "apparently above Pueblo".
Rumors of French advance toward the northeastern New Mexico frontier
led to an expedition to the Platte River and the Pawnee Indian country
in 1720 under the leadership of Villasur. "The command left Santa Fe in
June (the 15th) but their movements until the middle of August are
almost unknown. In view of the fact, however, that there were with
Villasur, men who had accompanied both Uribani and Valverde, we may
assume that the Spaniards went, in all probability, over the usual
route: first to Taos, then over the mountains east, and finally
northeast to the Purgatoire River. Their next stop was at El Quartelejo
where they began their long march to the Platte." (Thomas, 1924, 295)
They came to the South Platte River in August. Thirty-four, including
Villasur, were massacred by Pawnees (under French influence) on the
North Fork of the Platte near the present town of North Platte. "Eleven
men escaped and fled back to Santa Fe to tell the news". After this
disaster, no further journeys into the Colorado region were made until
some time before 1750, when Bustamente y Tegle made a punitive
expedition down the Arkansas.
Later, Spanish explorations were made in southern and southwestern
Colorado: The Rivera expedition of 1765; an expedition to the Gunnison
River in 1775; the Dominguez-Escalente expedition of 1776 through
southwest Colorado to the Great Basins; Juan Bautista de Anza's
expedition to the San Luis Valley, 1779.
"The expeditions (into present Colorado) are part of the great story
of Spanish expansion, and furnish the background of the region which was
later cut off to become the state of Colorado". (Thomas, 1924, 300).
Whether or not any of the Spanish expeditions into the Colorado
region of the 17th and 18th centuries saw the Front Range of North
Central Colorado has not been definitely determined. It seems that none
of the Spaniards who crossed eastern Colorado approached the Front Range
close enough to see Long's Peak, but it is definitely established that
they did see the mountain now known as Pike's Peak to the south.
In 1793 all of Louisiana west of the Mississippi River became Spanish
territory. By the late 18th century Spaniards had become active in the
fur trade of the Mississippi Valley and men of Spanish descent took part
in trapping activities under American rule in the 19th century. A
notable example in north central Colorado was Louis Velasquez who was
active in the late '30's and in the '40's. With Andrew Sublette, he
established one of the trading posts on the South Platte in late '30's.
He trapped the streams that have their rise in Rocky Mountain National
Park. Velasquez Creek was named after him.
(Mexican grants and settlements in Southern Colorado do not concern
us in this paper)
II. French Activity Southwest of the Missouri River.
The disaster to the Villazur expedition on the Platte River in 1720
taught the Spanish that the French were advancing toward their
northeastern border. This continued advance of the French southwestward
from Canada was to bring them into trade relations with the Indians
living at the base of the Rockies in Colorado. By the middle of the
century French expeditions had crossed what is now eastern Colorado on
their way to New Mexico. French voyageurs and traders had begun to look
"with covetous eyes" toward New Mexico since early in the 18th century.
New Mexico offered to the adventurer "gold and silver and a path to the
South Sea. To the merchant it offered rich profits in trade." (Bolton,
1917, 389). The French were prevented from gaining immediate access to
New Mexico, however, both because of the exclusive policy of Spain and
because of "the Indian tribes which stood in the way". On the Red River
highway were the Apaches, and blocking the Arkansas and Missouri
highways were the Commanches. In 1718-19, La Harpe was attempting to
ascend the Red River, and Du Tisne, the Arkansas. In 1723 Bourgment made
advances on the Missouri frontier pacifying the Indian tribes and
securing permission for Frenchmen to pass through the Comanche country
to the Spaniards. Soon afterwards, however, Indian hostilities again
arose, between the various tribes, bringing a check to further French
advance for some years.
"The next well known attempt to reach New Mexico was made in 1739. In
that year the Mallet party of eight or nine men left the Missouri River
at the Arikara villages, went south to the Platte River, ascended that
stream, and made their way through the Comanche country to Taos and to
Santa Fe". (Bolton, 1917, 390) On their return several months later four
of the party descended the Canadian and the Arkansas rivers, the others
going northeast to Illinois. Mallet was probably the first Frenchman to
cross what is now Colorado territory. He did not approach close enough
to the Front Range to be able to see Longs Peak, but he did begin trade
relations with Indians who lived in north central Colorado.
Encouraged by the success of the Mallet expedition, French activity
continued. In 1741 Governor 'Rienville sent Fabry de la Bruyere to
explore the Far West, but he failed to reach New Mexico. In 1746 or 1747
"the Arkansas route was made safe by effecting a much desired treaty
between the Comanches and their eastern enemies". (Bolton, 1920, 286).
Immediately new expeditions were made to the Spanish border. Peace
having been attained between the Comanches and Pawnees, French traders
again made expeditions to the southwest in 1751 and in 1752. The Spanish
were by now alarmed and clapped the Frenchmen into jail. By 1763,
Louisiana west of the Mississippi was acquired by Spain and the French
menace was thereby destroyed.
However, French voyageurs and traders still carried on their trading
activities with the Indians. They did so even after the country was
acquired by the United States. Men with French names were common amongst
the trappers in the west, and French geographical names arose from this
fact. The Chouteau Company of St. Louis was an important firm managed by
men of French origin. They were active in the Colorado region.
III. The American Approach: Pike.
The United States purchased Louisiana from Napoleon in 1803. This
gave rise to a border problem between Mexico and the United States. "The
boundaries of Louisiana had never been determined: but of one thing the
Spanish could be sure: the aggressive, young nation. . . had thrown its
frontier too close to their northern provinces for comfort." Lieutenant
Zebulon Montgomery Pike, who was sent to explore that part of the
Louisiana Purchase around the headwaters of the Arkansas, left St. Louis
in July 1806 and entered the limits of the state of Colorado November
11, of that year. Pike was the first official American explorer, but not
the first citizen of the United States to enter Colorado. On November
23, the site of Pueblo was reached. An attempt to scale the present
Pike's Peak on the 27th was unsuccessful. Pike does not mention any peak
that we can identify as Long's Peak, and his party did not go into
central or northern Colorado. They built a temporary fort at the site of
Pueblo, Colorado. From there they followed up the Royal Gorge to South
Park. Later, he and his men were arrested by the Spanish in New Mexico
and after examination were released. Pike's expedition was important as
a contribution to geographical knowledge and as a fore-runner of the
American advance to the Rocky Mountains. (Colorado University, 1927,
48-52.)
IV. The American Approach: Trappers and Traders.
While in New Mexico in 1807, Pike met another American, James Pursley
or Purcell by name, who related how, as early "as 1805 he had traded
with the Indians on the South Platte, had gone with them into South
Park," and had found flakes of gold. It is also known that the firm,
Chouteau-De Munn of St. Louis, was engaged in trade with the Indians on
the Platte and Arkansas Rivers (1815-1817). In 1817 they were visited by
Spanish soldiers and ordered into Santa Fe where all their furs were
confiscated. (Colorado University, 1927, 58.)
A. P. Chouteau and Julius De Munn had the way opened for them in 1811
by Ezekial Williams, who led 19 men to the upper Arkansas. In 1812-13
Williams was a captive of the Arapahoes. In the spring he managed to
escape, cache his furs and make his way back to Missouri. In 1814, he
joined a party of 21 westward bound trappers under Joseph Philibert,
hoping to recover his furs and rescue the two companions still held by
the Indians. In 1815, Philibert was accompanied by A. P. Chouteau and
Julius De Munn, who purchased the outfit and the services of the men
which Philibert had left in the mountains. For the next two years
Chouteau and De Munn conducted successful trapping business in Colorado,
maintaining about 50 trappers in the field. This firm not only did
trapping but also traded with the Indians for peltries. One large
trading council was held on the South Platte River a few miles south of
present Denver. In 1817 they were arrested by the Spanish authorities
and their furs confiscated. This discouraged further trapping in
Colorado until Mexico achieved her independence from Spain. (Hafen,
1933, 76-80).
In November 1821 Jacob Fowler and Hugh Glenn at the head of a company
of men came up the Arkansas. They trapped in Mexican territory to the
south. "The first habitable and inhabited dwelling constructed by
private citizens within the limits" of Colorado was at what is now
Pueblo (1821-1822), by the Glenn-Fowler party as a protection against
Indians. The Santa Fe trade was developing and it had become safer for
American trappers to approach the frontiers of New Mexico. Yankee
traders were welcomed in New Mexico after 1821, when Mexico achieved her
independence and as a "result the Santa Fe trail was opened. It crossed
the south eastern part of Colorado."
During the next few years Taos, in New Mexico, became a fur trading
center for trappers working in southern and western Colorado. James Ohio
Pattie was one of these, as was William Becknell, "father of the Santa
Fe Trail", William Huddart, and Antoine Robidoux. These of the south and
southwest need not concern us further. At the same time as fur trading
operations were being developed to the south, other trapping parties
were entering Colorado from the north and northeast.
In the late twenties and the thirties the most important group of
trappers operating in Colorado was the one associated with the Rocky
Mountain Fur Company, established in 1822 by General William H. Ashley
and Andrew Henry of St. Louis. Their purpose was to engage in fur trade
on the upper Missouri River. By 1825 they were chiefly engaged in a new
region to the south. (See "Ashley's Long Winter Trail 1825" for Ashley's
opening up of an overland route via the South Platte).
"In 1826 the business was transferred to Jedediah Smith, David E.
Jackson and William Sublette, the ablest and most experienced of
Ashley's lieutenants: They in turn sold out in 1830 to Thomas
Fitzpatrick, Milton G. Sublette, Henry Fraeb, Jean Baptisto Gervais and
James Bridger." A detailed description of all the wanderings of these
trappers even in Colorado is impossible in this brief sketch. "Suffice
it to say that they followed the rivers to their sources and explored
the mountain parks; they, more than any other group of men, were the
real pathfinders of the West." (Colorado University, 1927, 60).
Chittenden says (Chittenden 1902, I, 306-7), "the impress which they
have left upon the geography of the West is surprisingly great".
Beginning with 1828 the Bent and St. Vrain Company began their
activities on the Arkansas River. From 1828 to 1832 they erected Bent's
Fort on the north bank of the river about ten or twelve miles above the
mouth of the Purgatoire. It was the most important trading post in
Colorado and one of the most famous in the West. There were five Bent
brothers. "For thirty years their name was almost synonymous with the
fur trade of Colorado."
Among the many other trading posts erected from time to time in
Colorado and having a more or less fleeting existence, the present paper
is chiefly interested with the four established on the South Platte at
the base of the Front Range and in view of Long's Peak. These will be
considered at some length in their chronological order after treating of
the Long, the Dodge, and the Ashley expeditions up the South Platte
River.
Brief mention should be made of some of the more important
individuals engaged as trappers in the Colorado region. James Ohio
Pattie has left a thrilling account of the adventures of the parties
which he accompanied. He crossed the continental divide in the winter
1826-7. He says in his "Personal Narrative" that the passage occupied
six days and was negotiated with great difficulty through the snow
drifts. In 1824 William Beckness, "Father of the Santa Fe Trail", and
William Huddart were on the western slope, where they fall in with
Antoine Robidoux and his trapping bend. Robidoux built Fort Robidoux. By
1831 "trappers were coming in such great numbers that the fur areas were
depleted." (Hafen, 1933, 82). In that year a fur trading venture of
seventy men led by Captains Gant and Blackwell met with ill success.
"Although companies failed and many trappers changed occupation, the fur
trade days were not ended. From beaver skins the fur men turned to
buffalo robes and these latter became the chief article of commerce in
Colorado during the late '30's and early '40's." (Hafen, 1933, 83.) The
coming of wagons made possible the development of trade in buffalo
robes. The forts on the South Platte were chiefly engaged in the buffalo
robe trade.
Fitzpatrick and Beckwourth have been mentioned in connection with the
fur trading activities initiated by General Ashley. Kit Carson has not
as yet been mentioned. He was among the most famous trappers, but was
seldom associated with any fur company. He was a "free trapper". He
began trapping in 1826 at the age of 17. In 1830, while at Taos, New
Mexico, he was engaged by Thomas Fitzpatrick for work with the Rocky
Mountain Fur Company. In going north through Colorado, Carson passed
along the eastern side of the Front Range, trapping on the South Platte
and its tributaries as he went. (Vestal, 1928, 58.) In 1831 he was
associated with Gant, trapping in New Park, (the present North Park), on
the Laramie Plains, and along the South Platte. Then he was hired as a
hunter for Bent's Fort. Engaged thus for perhaps eight years he found
much time for trapping for himself. He hunted and trapped on all the
streams north from Bent's Fort and no doubt penetrated the region now
within the boundaries of the Rocky Mountain National Park. Enos Mills
says Carson camped in Estes Park in 1840. (Mills, 1924, 4.) The
knowledge of geography gained by penetrating the canyons and parks of
the Rockies made Carson, as well as Fitzpatrick and other trappers,
invaluable to expeditions sent out by the United States government.
Carson has become especially renowned because of his connection with the
Fremont expeditions.
V. The American Approach: Discovery of Long's Peak.
It is certain that early American trappers had seen Long's Peak
before 1820, and it is possible that the Spanish explorers and the
French seekers for trade had seen this peak, but no record of discovery
of the peak was made until the Long expedition up the South Platte
River. Major Stephen H. Long made the second official exploration by
Americans in the state of Colorado in 1820, more than a decade after
that of Pike. "The party of nineteen men traveled on horseback, using
pack animals for the transportation of supplies. The season was
favorable and the marches of twenty-five miles per day were made
regularly with little difficulty.
"On June 27th they reached the eastern boundary of present Colorado.
Large herds of buffalo were here encountered, their dusky bodies
blackening the whole surface of the prairie. Bands of wild horses also
were seen. It is interesting to note that although Americans were just
entering Colorado the Spaniards had been in the Southwest for three
centuries, and the horse, transplanted to the New World, had so thrived
that he was now running wild upon the plains". (Hafen, 1933, 71-2).
The Rocky Mountains were sighted on June 30th. The party had left
camp at the accustomed early hour and at 8 o'clock the men "were cheered
by a distant view of the Rocky Mountains. . . Our first views of the
mountains were indistinct," says James, chronicler of the expedition,
"on account of some smokiness of the atmosphere, but from our
encampment, at noon, we had a very distinct and satisfactory prospect of
them...
"Towards evening the air became more clear, and our view was more
satisfactory..... We soon remarked a particular part of the range
divided into three conic summits each apparently of nearly equal
altitude. This we concluded to be the point designated by Pike as the
highest peak." (James, London Edition, 1823, II, 174 and 177).
Thwaites says, "The party mistook this 'highest peak' for Pike's
Peak. This mountain called by French trappers, Les deux Oreilles (Two
ears), is the one now known as Long's Peak, being named for Major S. H.
Long Fremont found in 1842 that this name had been adopted by the
traders, and had become familiar in the country." (Thwaites, 1905, XV,
271 footnote)
"The bend in the river (South Platte) passed July 3rd, is the point
of nearest approach (of the Long expedition) to Long's Peak, still forty
miles distant. Near the camp of that evening, at the mouth of St Vrains
Creek, the important fur-trading firm of Bent and St. Vrain built St.
Vrain's fort about twenty years later.
Potera Creek, the old name for St. Vrain's Creek, was from Potera,
who had lost his way on it some three or four years before Long reached
the locality. As early as 1816 trappers had met with Indians encamped on
tributaries of the South Platte. (Thwaite, 1905, XV, 274-5 footnote).
They may have been parties connected with the company headed by A. P.
Chouteau and Julius De Munn of St. Louis. The Long party noticed
evidences of Indian encampment and trading operations. (Idem., 282 and
footnote). Long's French guide probably told him of the earlier
history.
The movements of the Long party are difficult to follow from the
mouth of Cache a la Poudre Creek south to the Arkansas River, "as the
nomenclature of the region has in the interim changed almost entirely.
Moreover, the itinerary is carelessly recorded and the map of the
expedition is inaccurate." (Idem., 274 footnote). The peak now known as
Long's Peak was designated as the Highest Peak and Pike's Peak as James'
Peak because Dr. James, historian of the expedition, made its ascent
with two companions. James succeeded where Pike had failed. The name,
James' Peak, has how been transferred northward to the mountain now
pierced by the Moffet Tunnel.
"Long's party continued southward to the Arkansas and after examining
the Valley of the Royal Gorge turned eastward and journeyed back to
civilization." (Hafen, 1933, 73).
"In his report, Major Long gave a disheartening picture to the
country. On his map he labeled the plains region east of the Rocky
Mountains 'The Great American Desert', and asserted that the whole
region was 'uninhabitable by a people depending upon agriculture for
their subsistence'. This opinion persisted in the public mind and
appeared in the school books for more than a generation and was a factor
in retarding the development of the West, Although we may now criticize
Long's report, who could have foreseen what wonders the railroad, the
irrigation ditch and scientific dry-farming would do in blotting forever
from the map the 'Great American Desert'?" (Hafen, 1933, 73).
"It was many years before the government again attempted any extended
scientific, expedition in the Rockies; but the public soon became
familiar with the trans-Missouri country from the reports of trappers,
traders, emigrants, rovers, and occasional government officials, who
surmounted countless obstacles reared by savage man and untamed nature
in threading the valleys or the eastern slopes of the mountains and
tracing the more accessible of the gorges. (Thwaites, 1904, 217).
VI. The American Approach: Colonel Dodge's Expedition of First
Dragoons.
The first United States military expedition up the South Platte was
made under the leadership of Colonel Henry Dodge in the summer of 1835,
but Dodge traversed no new or unknown country. Both his expedition and
that of Colonel Stephen Kearny in 1845, "were significant chiefly in
connection with our relations to the Indians living on the Great
Plains".
Colonel Dodge followed Long's route for the most part. His journal is
interesting because of its descriptions of the Indians and of the vast
herds of buffalo, wild horses, elk, deer, etc. On July 15, the party
"discovered a beautiful bird's eye view of the Rocky Mountains. This
sight was hailed with joy by the whole command. We saw the end of the
march - the long wished for object of all our hopes," says Dodge. The
mountains "at first resembled white conical clouds, lying along the edge
of the horizon. The rays of a setting sun upon their snow-clad summits
gave to them a beautiful and splendid appearance." (Dodge, 1836, 19).
Thus did Dodge describe the appearance of the Front Range, but nothing
was said of Long's Peak, its most prominent feature. Later, as they
marched south along the base of the mountains to the Arkansas River,
Dodge and his men observed many evidences of the work of trappers and of
Indian encampments.
VII. The American Approach: Ashley's Long Winter Trails,
1825.
Between the years 1812 and 1820, William Henry Ashley and Andrew
Henry were engaged in mining in Missouri. At the decline of fur hunting
in 1812, Henry had withdrawn from the Missouri Fur Company with which he
had been actively engaged for several years. He it was who, in 1808, had
been the first American to trap on the western side of the Rocky
Mountain divide. Henry's Fork of the Snake River was named after
him.
Ashley and Henry had been much together in their mining activities,
and with the decline of mining and the concurrent revival of the fur
trade, it was natural that a partnership should be formed to engage in
this business. By 1822 Ashley and Henry had followed hundreds of others
to the upper waters of the Missouri River. However, they soon penetrated
new territory and began to use new methods of procedure in the conduct
of their business. Instead of depending on the savages for their furs
they "determined to employ white men in the actual task of trapping, and
for the regularly established post to substitute, in large measure, the
annual rendezvous. The trapper was to supplant the trader". (Dale, 1918,
67).
"The abandonment of the older territory and the penetration of the
transmontane country under changed business conditions led naturally to
a new line of approach, and, consequently, to a new method of
transportation. The traditional means of reaching the fur country had
been by boat up the Missouri River. Those who had followed Lewis and
Clark had used the keel-boat." Under Ashley and Henry, horses were
definitely decided upon for transportation, and "the reasons for
following the customary routes naturally vanished. A less dangerous and,
above all, a more direct approach to the mountains was available."
(Dale, 1918,114). The central Platte route had remained unused because
of its unnavigability, and the area which it drained and the region
beyond was not penetrated. The substitution of horses for boats "made
the Platte available for communication with the interior."
"In general", says Dale, "this was the route which Ashley determined
to follow in the year 1824. Thomas Fitzpatrick had returned by the North
Platte (from the Green River rendezvous) in the summer and had reported
the way feasible. Still Ashley's undertaking was a bold experiment, for
it was not till the third of November that he left Fort Atkinson.... He
followed Fitzpatrick's course only a portion of the distance. At the
forks of the Platte, he selected the south branch instead of the north,
in the hope of finding a greater supply of grass in a lower latitude. He
was the first white man to travel this route in the dead of winter and
the first to use that variation of the South Pass, called by the name of
one of his own employees, James Bridger. He was the first white man to
investigate the mountains of Northern Colorado." (Dale, 1918,
115-116).
John G. Neihardt, in his "The Splendid Wayfaring", calls this
important expedition "Ashley's Long Winter Trail". He describes the
journey, following Ashley's own narrative. Quite closely and
supplementing it with Beckwourth's account as given in Bonner, "The Life
and Adventures of James P. Beckwourth."
Ashley's party consisted of twenty-six men, nine of whom are
remembered by name. General Ashley, Thomas Fitzpatrick, Robert Campbell,
James P. Beckwourth, Moses or "Black" Harris, Baptiste La Jennesse,
LeBrache, Dorway, and Clement (or Claymore). They left Fort Atkinson
November 3, 1824, and followed the same Indian trace from the Missouri
River to the Pawnee villages that Long's expedition had followed in the
Spring of 1820. It was now deeply covered, with snow. Provisions began
to run low and the men were in desperate circumstances until they
reached the Forks of the Platte on December 12th, where they bought
supplies of the Pawnees encamped there.
Leaving the forks on December 23, the South Platte was followed
instead of the North Fork, because more feed for the horses and more
wood for their fires were expected along this route. They met with
countless buffalo. The first view of the mountains was obtained about
January 20th, 1825, near the mouth of Beaver Creek not far from the
present town of Fort Morgan.
The mouth of the Cache la Paudre Creek was reached on January 22nd.
Ashley ascended this creek, making a winter camp on its banks on
February 4th, "in a thick grove of cottonwood and willows", among the
foothills of the Front Range. "Long's Peak loomed large to the
southward, seeming to Ashley no more than six or eight miles a away,
though the distance must have been at least thirty-five miles."
(Neihardt, 1920, 181).
On February 25th Ashley's men resumed their way, although the
foothills were still "enveloped in one mass of snow and ice...., Our
passage across the first range of mountains, which, was exceedingly
difficult and dangerous," so runs the General's narrative, "employed us
three days, after which the country presented a different aspect.
Instead of finding the mountains more rugged as I advanced towards their
summit and everything in their bosom frozen and terpid. . . . they
assumed quite a different character." The ascent became more gradual and
"the south sides of the hills were but partially covered with snow." The
valleys "were filled with numerous herds of buffalo, deer and antelope."
(Quoted by Neihardt, 1920, 181-2). They reached the Laramie River by
March 10th, and by the 23rd, after a hard struggle with snow, they had
crossed the Medicine Bow Mountains. The first recorded crossing of the
mountains via the Cache la Poudre route had been accomplished. The creek
itself did not receive its name until the next decade when a party of
French trappers on their way to the mountains buried their supply of
powder in a sandbank close to the stream. A plain granite monument
commemorates the spot where the powder was buried eight miles northwest
of Fort Collins. (Parsons, 1911, 197).
This trail opened up by Ashley was also used by Fremont in his
expedition of 1843. It later became known as the Cherokee Trail after a
band of white and Cherokees who used this route in 1849 on their way
from Georgia to California. Greeley mentions it in his book.
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