Pacific Coast Area
There is a detached section of the park known as the
Pacific Coast Area. It is a narrow strip of land that borders the ocean
for 50 milesa scenic coastline of unusual interest. The Olympic
Highway (U.S. 101 and Wash. 9) runs through the southern 12 miles of it,
but the rest is roadless except for the road to the village of La
Push.
The shore is broken by many rocky points separating
sandy beaches. Numerous needle rocks and small islands, having survived
the abrasion of the encroaching sea, rise offshore.
In places where ocean waves have worn back the land
there are rocky platforms that are under shallow water when the tide is
in and uncovered when the tide is out. Myriads of animals may be seen
among slippery sea plants, under rocks, and in pools left behind when
the water recedes. This is a between-the-tides museum, with mussels and
barnacles in dense communities holding to rocks near shore, purple shore
crabs scurrying for shelter under rocks, ochre and purple starfish
(blondes and brunettes of the same species), and numerous limpets
clinging tightly to rocks farther from shore. Colorful hydroids,
brilliant nudibranchs, chitons, sea urchins, and anemones in pools also
thrive where the shore is rocky and protected from strong waves.
Other creatures prefer the sandy beaches. On a
weekend in clam season, when the tide is low, the miles-long Kalaloch
Beach becomes pock-marked with holes and bumpy with piles from clam
diggers' "guns." A clam "gun" is a spade with a long, narrow blade set
nearly at right angle with the handle. Each year, seasons and limits for
razor clams are prescribed by the Washington State Department of
Fisheries. The season, which runs from spring to autumn, generally
coincides with the most favorable tides and surf for clam digging.
Quileute and Quinault Indians dip silver smelt out of
the surf with nets. These small fish ride in on the surf to spawn in the
sand, especially during the highest spring tides. Anyone may engage in
this fishing sport, with a hand dip net, under certain restrictions.
Current regulations pertaining to razor clam digging and smelt dipping
can usually be obtained in the immediate area.
Three Indian reservations lie within the ocean strip
and a fourth adjoins it on the south. One of these, the Ozette at the
northern end, is no longer inhabited, but there are still signs of the
village site. An unimposing bit of rock juts into the water here. This
is Cape Alava, which is distinguished by being the western extremity of
our country, exclusive of Alaska and Hawaii.
Numerous birds nest on the offshore islands. Many
others make rest stops during migration, as the strip lies within a
major migration flyway. Birds, including gulls, crows, oystercatchers,
and cormorants, are always present along the shore. Usually several bald
eagles may be seen during a hike along the beach. They build
their nests mostly in the tops of tall snags.
Mammals, too, appear on the beach. Raccoons and
skunks take advantage of low tides to feed on the various and abundant
life available then. Deer frequently come to the beaches, perhaps to
escape a cougar, to sun themselves, or to obtain salt or certain beach
plants. Not infrequently a black bear is seen, and, occasionally, an
elk.
Camping on the beach is pleasant during dry weather.
There is ample firewood everywhere and small streams flow out of the
forest, providing fresh water. Some of the streams may be contaminated,
however, and the water should be either boiled or treated chemically if
its purity is doubtful.
GIANTS GRAVEYARD, SOUTH OF LA PUSH, IS COMPOSED OF
REMNANTS OF RESISTANT ROCKS THAT HAVE SURVIVED THE FORCES OF THE
SEA.
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There are several trails leading to the beach.
Starting at the north, the most important of these are the
following:
INDIAN VILLAGE TRAIL, starting at Lake Ozette and
extending 3 miles to the Ozette village site at the beach, leads through
delightful forest and prairie. Much of the trail is a boardwalk made of
split cedar puncheon.
SAND POINT TRAIL also starts at Lake Ozette and is 3
miles long. The distance between the Indian Village Trail and this trail
is also 3 miles along the beach. Thus, a triangular 9-mile round trip is
possible.
SECOND BEACH TRAIL is about one-half of a mile
long.
THIRD BEACH TRAIL is about three-quarters of a mile
long. These two latter trails start from the road near the village of La
Push and lead to attractive, clean, sandy beaches.
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