Volume V No. 2 - August, 1932
Wizard Island
By Earl W. Count, Ranger Naturalist
Is Wizard Island the head of the monster, Llao, slain by Skell, or
is it massive, black or red lave fragments and cinders, a volcano within
a caldera? Take your choice or take both. At any rate, five
hundred-odd acres of cozy desolation are marooned in the "Sea of
Mystery". After crossing the lake to the island you land most
unstrategically on a shaky, weatherbeaten dock in the shallow recess of
a cove. Blunderbusses or bows might rain thrilling death from the trees
on three sides of you. But let us say that you have miraculously
escaped this first disaster; perhaps the pirates were out fishing on the
other side of the island. Perhaps the Indian savages, the Moros, the
King of the Cannibal Islands, or what you will, were sliding down the
snowbank within, the crater that scoops its bed in the crest of the
mount. You hitch up your belt, take a deep breath, and start your
trudge. It all looks innocent enough. The path stoops under a fallen
tree, and turns to dodge upward between two lava flows that form a small
valley of incongruously heavy boulders. Dust and tree sees years ago
have flown across the water you have just labored over, and together
they have made your path possible by carpeting it crudely with crushed
and weathered needles and wood. There is shade here of fir, hemlock,
and white pine, and against the black rocks it is dark indeed.
Can anything moving live in a place like this? The bleeding-hearts
not far from the water, the penstemons and scarlet paint-brushes farther
up can, to be sure, live in whatever soil the island has captured, but
certainly no bird or beast would choose to haunt here.
Then a belted kingfisher sweeps through the trees, on his way to a
cove on the other side of the island. A chickadee babbles from
somewhere in the tangle of boughs. A hummingbird flashes over to a
scarlet paint-brush, uttering his quick shrill little click. A coney
shoots in between two rocks. You look for him, and uncover a little
green frog, or a jolly toad. How did the coney get there? What was the
frog doing a hundred feet or more above the lake level? Is a pile of
volcanic ashes exactly the place for a toad? There are butterflies
dodging among the branches, and bees in the flower cups. There are ants
(with doodle-bugs to eat them), spiders, and dragon flies... The island
is alive. You, a mere human, are a decided minority against the other
life that pops up from the ground, out from behind boulders or
tree-trunks, or from the needles of the lanky conifers.
The path is not easy to the top, but your grind out foot after foot.
Here is where the lava ends, and where the ash and cinder of a dying
mountain spilled over it and built the cone that caps the whole. It is
harder trudging here, and even the host of trees seem to have hesitated,
for they thin out to a few hardy stragglers.
The thin little trail sweeps in one spiral loop around and up the
cone. As you curl onto the northern slope, the ranks of the trees
disappear. They huddle far below you. Above and below, the broad back
of the mountain spreads away. Above and below, the broad back is
covered with the thin down of white-and-yellow anemones. A unique
experience now comes upon you, for, as you progress, you will pass from
January to September in a couple of minutes. In the region of a
snow-back, where the soil has been uncovered but recently, the anemones
have just sprung into bloom. Small clusters pop into view even as you
look at them. There is no solid carpet of blossoms; the plants are few
enough to be individuals, yet frequent enough to mollify the protoan
barrenness of the cinders. Then, as you pass on to where the sun has
been ever increasingly active, they anemones have flowered, faded,
withered and seeded. Here at last, in shaggy, tufted heads, like some
girl's roguish bob, the plumed seedlets write the epilogue to the life
of the anemones. Here, too, their province ends. The rocks now burst
into a hot maroon, and the scarlet paint-brushes spring out fiercely,
all the redder for their red background. By some fantastic quip of
artistry, Nature has managed even to underscore this with just enough
clumps of blue penstemons and yellow sulphur flowers. No peasant
embroidery was ever more gaudy, yet harmoniously so, than this emphatic
little country of the scarlet paintbrushes.
You are "up". The crater breaks upon you suddenly. It is about one
hundred feet deep; yet it seems less. The size of the bowl must be
grasped from the depth, looking upward. You note, with a short of
poetic justice, that the lava-maw has been stopped with a snow-bank.
On the crater rim, for a moment, you may seem to be in the center of
the universe. Your outermost horizon is the encircling rim walls of
Crater Lake. Concentrically, the blue of the lake encloses your island.
Within this is the shaggy ring of green trees that holds the base and
lower slopes of the mountain. Then comes the cone of ashes, and lastly
yourself -- Abruptly you realize that the center of a circle is a point,
and a point is a figment that has no dimensions.
It is now, as you start to retrace your path, that you see war. The
seeds that once flew across the lake and lodged in the scraps of dust
and dirt, are trees, herbs, and groveling shrubs. The crest of Wizard
Island is the citadel. Who knows but that once the garrison effected
sorties against premature landing parties? At least now the trees have
entrenched themselves solidly on all sides, although they are massed
only at the base, as though not comprehending that the garrison long
since has starved. On the sunny side, the besiegers struggle raggedly
upward, exactly like a crouching party of raiders facing fire. In
places they have rushed up and set foot upon the parapet, but where they
have done so, they are battered and twisted. As a final touch of
realism, there are the trunks that lie prone and broken, scattered on
the hillside. On the northern slope, as you look down upon them, you se
that the line ends abruptly, where the masses of trees are gathered but
seem to be holding fire. Then you notice that immediately in front of
the mature individuals is a solid row of young saplings. Here, too,
then, there is an offensive; but it is slow, dogged, and not
spectacular. Up the slope, crouch and creep the anemones and the fierce
paint-brushes. Are they Nature's "scouts" who pave the way for the
"regulars"?
There is more than idle fancy in such speculation. The warfare is
real and also intense. Wizard Island is weird in its quiet.
Columnar Structure In Our Lavas
By E. L. Clark, Ranger Naturalist
Many of our visitors have wondered if the elongated columns of rock
that are observed in various parts of our Park are petrified logs, i.e.
logs that were neatly arranged in piles and bundles, then turned to rock
by some unknown and uncanny process. It is found in our lava flows and
dikes, and is due to the regular development of prismatic joints that
break up the rock mass into parallel columns, the sides of which are
characteristically five or six in number. This rock phenomenon is known
as columnar structure. While most of the columns will portray a rough
and irregular hexagonal outline, many of them will have the sixth side
so depressed and small that it is entirely eliminated.
This structure is variously portrayed in our Park. It may be
observed at the following localities within the Rim Area: (1) the upper
exposed portions of the andesite dike about two hundred yards west of
the foot of the Lake Trail; (2) in a small area some forty feet above
the Lake and fifty yards west of the dike just mentioned; (3) the
Devil's Woodpile some seven hundred yards west of the foot of the Lake
Trail (this feature is observed on the lake excursions under the
guidance of some member of our Naturalist Staff); (4) parts of the dike
known as the Devils' Backbone; (5) near the base of the great dacite
flow that forms Llao Rock; (6) the constriction at the base of the bowl
portion of the Wineglass; and (7) in the lava flow on the inside of the
Rim below Kerr Notch. Near the crest of the steep portion of the grade
over Vidae Ridge, and facing Sun Creek Valley some six-tenths of a mile
southwest of the Sun Creek crossing another exposure of columnar lava
may be observed. Here the lava has been poured onto a trifaceous
agglomerate (a chaotic assemblage of coarse volcanic ashes and cinders).
The attitude of the lava readily suggests its direct relations to the
former mountain.
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