GRAND TETON NATURE NOTES

MOUNTAINEERING, 1937

by Phil D. Smith, Temporary Ranger
and Howard R. Stagner, Park Naturalist

Slow to start, but gathering momentum rapidly during August, the 1937 mountaineering season in Grand Teton National Park proved to be one of the best of all years. Climbing weather regained almost perfect from July until late in September, with but a few bad days. While the records kept at the museum showed somewhat of a decrease over last year it is believed that this is a "paper loss" only. Professional guides of the park report this one of their best years, and it seemed that a more than usual number of climbers made independent ascents. It is therefore believed that the records are not complete due to the failure of some of the guides and other groups to report all of their climbs, and the true statistics for the season will be revealed only by a check of the summit records at a later date. The statistics for the past two seasons, appended below, consequently are of value only as they indicate the relative popularity of the various climbs.

As usual the Grand Teton, elevation 13,736 feet, was climbed about as frequently as all the other peaks combined, with all important old routes and one new one being used. Teewinot and Mt. Owen again ranked next in popularity with the latter, on which two new routes were pioneered, displacing Teewinot as second choice. Moran was scaled by but three parties, and remains one of the most trying ascents of the range. On this peak two Mazama groups paralleled each other on the east ridge and the Skillet Glacier routes. Some fine ascents were made of Middle Teton, Nez Perce and Symmetry Spire, with Storm Point, St. John, Woodring and unnamed peaks coming in for their share of warming-up climbs.

Of the several mountaineering clubs to visit the park, the Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, were the largest party numbering about 80. The California Alpine Club, The Wasatch Mountaineering Club of Utah, and the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, Hanover, New Hampshire, had representatives in the park during the summer as well.

Following are brief accounts of a few of the more interesting and more significant events of the season.

July 6 - Dr. Fred Ayres of Evanston, Illinois, Keith Anderson of Rexburg, Idaho, Floyd Wilson and Will Tompson of Jackson, Wyoming ascended the Grand Teton by way of the southwest ridge and returned to their timberline camp by the Owen route of 1898 thus opening the 1937 climbing season. To reach the southwest ridge first developed by Glen Exum of Pocatello, Idaho in 1931, it is necessary to follow along the exposed ledge on the face of a 2000 foot buttress, and then to cross an intervening gash in the mountain by throwing a rope over a projecting rock on the far side. After crossing safely, the climber works up the ridge and follows the steep, broken skyline to the summit. Ayres reports that the party encountered no exceptional difficulties on the trip, and the weather and seasonal conditions on the peak were found to be excellent.

July 12 - The Mazama Mountain Club party of about 80 mountaineers arrived today for a ten day outing among the peaks and glaciers. A tentative schedule of activities announced by the club president, Edward J. Hughes, and the outing chairman, Marvin Woolfalk, includes ascents of Mount Moran, Owen, the Grand Teton and Mount Teewinot, besides a number of trail trips to points of special interest.

July 20 - The severe wind and hail storm, which proved general throughout northwestern Wyoming, swept the Teton-Jackson Hole area today and caused much discomfort among hikers and mountaineers caught out at higher elevations. A party of five members of the Mazamas were overtaken ty the storm on the extreme summit of Mount Moran. Six inches of hail fell on the summit in half an hour. As the descent is especially dangerous in bad weather, the party remained on top until a terrific barrage of lightening finally forced them to seek lower elevations. The party consisted of L.J. Hughes and James Sterba of Portland, A.W. Hand of Tacoma, Washington, C.A. Fisher, Bellingham, Washington, and Don Woods of San Jose, California. On the Grand Teton, seven miles to the south, Miss Ruth Walker and Mrs. Sydney Weber of Worcester, Massachusetts, with Glen Exum, guide, also encountered bad weather, but were well down off the more dangerous slopes when the storm reached its greatest intensity.

August 10 - One climbing record was approached, and a second broken today when the Grand Teton was climbed by John Ziebarth, Star Scout of Pocatello, Idaho, John Hibler of St. Joseph, Missouri, and Glen Exum, guide. First of all, one of the boys was only 14 years old, and one of the youngest to set foot on the summit of the Grand. Further, what is probably record time was made on the 4000 foot ascent from timberline to the summit. Only three hours and 18 minutes were required for what is ordinarily a five to six hour trip.

The record for being the youngest person to climb the Grand Teton was first claimed in 1933 by Burell Bandel, age 15. This record was held for only one and one half hours when Jay Bartlett of Ogden, Utah, age 13, and his brother Frank, age 11, reached the summit. This record stood for two years, and in 1935 was shared with W. E. Reisendorph, age 11, of Arnett, Oklahoma. The latter ascent was made in company with members of the West State Teachers College Educational Tour. Other noteworthy ascents have been made by Frank McClintock, Minneapolis, Minnesota, age 11, of St. John, 1933; Donald Grant, Marion, Illinois, age 15, Grand Teton, 1933; Richard Furney, age 13, Jenny Lake, Grand Teton, 1933; Raymond Haery, age 13, East Greenwich, Rhode Island, Grand Teton, 1935; Jack Kelley, age 13, Jackson, Wyoming, Grand Teton, 1935.

Professor D. S. Hartline, Bloombery, Pennsylvania, probably holds the old age record for the Grand Teton. He was 68 years 11½ months old when he climbed the peak in 1935 having at that time broken the record claimed earlier that same year by Gustave A. Garabs, age 67½, of Washington, D.C.

Skyline Sketches - From the North Fork of Cascade Canyon, looking toward the southwest, one has, perhaps, the finest view of the high Teton peaks. Grand Teton looms high above its companions across the main Cascade Canyon. To the right is the lower summit, or West Spur. while the Middle and South Teton Peaks appear as rounded summits beyond to the south. Owen is immediately to the left, and Teewinot at the extreme left of the Grand.

August 10 - Thirty-six members of the California Alpine Club arrived by special bus from San Francisco for a week of climbing and hiking.

August 10 - Mount Owen, elevation 12,920 feet, second highest peak of the range, was completely traversed from east to west today by James C. Cooley of New York City and Macauly Smith of Louisville Kentucky, guided by Paul Petzoldt. The three left their camp at Amphitheater Lake early in the morning and ascended to the mile long ridge connecting Mt. Teewinot and Mt. Owen. From here it was necessary to cut steps up steep, hard snowfields to the final ridge which joins the summit dome on the east flank of the mountain. The dome afforded the most spectacular part of the climb. As there are but three or four hand holds for fully fifty feet, its ascent necessitated very slow and cautious work. After an hour on the summit, the trio descended to Cascade Canyon by the precipitous west face of the peak and arrived at Jenny Lake about dark.

August 14 - Emma Rumian of Mill Valley, Leroy Wilkie of San Rafael, and George Plummer of San Francisco, California, all members of the California Alpine Club, encountered bad weather today on the Grand Teton. The final cliffs were rendered difficult by ice, and all view of the surrounding peaks and valleys was blotted out by clouds.

August 21 - Don Grant and Keith Anderson made the first ascent of the season of Nez Perce.

August 21 - A third ascent of the Grand Teton by way of the nearly vertical north corner was made today by Adams Carter and Paul Petzoldt. The start was made from Amphitheater Lake. Both men report the climb a difficult one, and several attempts were needed to surmount the giant overhang that almost completely blocks the route at one point. This route, pioneered six years ago by Underhill and Fryxell, ranks as one of the most exacting climbs found on the continent. A strong party of four made the second ascent by this route late last season (1936)

August 23 - Fifteen explorer scouts of the Salt Lake Council, Boy Scouts of America, guided by Ranger Phil D. Smith, today completed and ascent of the Grand Teton and equaled the record for the largest single party to make this climb.

August 20 - September 10 - Jack Durrance, Percy Rideout and George Sheldon, Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, have been "playing around" on the peaks. Members of of this group, together with their sometimes climbing companions Maria Volkhardt of Munich, Germany, and Ann Sharples of Cambridge, Massachusetts, have accounted for two ascents of the Grand by way of the Owen and Exum routes, Teewinot from the east and from Amphitheater Lake, the east ridge of Mt. Owen, as well as a new route up this peak by the south ridge (see below), and an ascent, the first, of the south face of the jaw of Nez Perce.

September 3 - Jack Durrance, George Sheldon and Percy Rideout traversed Mt. Owen by way of the south ridge. The approach was made over Teton Glacier and across the difficult gun-sight notch separating Mt. Owen from the Grand Teton. The party is the first to reach this notch, as far as is known, although several have made unsuccessful attempts. The climbers suggest that this new route be referred to as the D.M.C. (Dartmouth Mountaineering Club) route.

Skyline Sketches - Hikers along the Cascade Canyon Trail find the ever-changing skyline an interesting feature of the trail. The first fine view is from near Hidden Falls, just a mile along the trail from Jenny Lake. At the very base of Mount Teewinot, this peak appears to top Mount Owen, farther up the canyon to the west, with its permanent snow fields. Even the Grand Teton, seen through the notch between these two peaks, appears dwarfed.

September 7 - Paul and James Stettner of Chicago climbed Owen today following the usual route from Teton Glacier, between the snow fields to the east ridge. From here the route deviated from the regular one, and the climbers went "straight up over knob to summit". The descent, by way of the south face close to the east ridge to the lower snow fields, brought the climbers to Amphitheater Lake after eleven hours of climbing from this base. They report "a nice climb".

September 7 - After breaking in on Storm Point and Symmetry Spire, and an ascent of the Grand Teton, Clare and John Mallory of Godalming, England, and Dr. Glenn Millikan of Pasadena, California wound up their climbing season in the Tetons with an east ridge climb of the Jaw of Nez Perce. Descent was made down the north face.

September 8 - A new and direct route up the Grand was today followed by William P. House, Paul Petzoldt, and Phil D. Smith. The new route leads over the southeast wall. From a base camp in Garnet Canyon, the party first ascended to the head of Teepe's Glacier. Their route then followed up a series of smooth ledges to the base of a high chimney fifteen hundred feet below the summit. The chimney, free of ice in late season, proved less difficult than was anticipated but forced slow and careful climbing around several dangerously suspended stones. Above the chimney the way led directly to the top. The descent was made by way of the east south ridge. Successfully roping down over two long overhangs to a small platform on the vertical face of the steep southwest gully, the party followed a series of connected ledges around a giant buttress to easy slopes directly above their base camp. The climbers report their route of ascent not especially difficult, but that in early season or in bad weather it might be uncertain and extremely hazardous. This route is the eighth to be established on this peak since it was first climbed by the Owen party in 1898.

September 10 - Paul and James Stettner followed the Underhill-Fryxell route up the north corner of the Grand. They report their climb as follows: "Teton Glacier, up couloir between Grand and Owen, under two big rocks out to left and over steep ledges to north shoulder and north corner. From here to right and upward over very steep ledges to chimney with big chockstone. Found three pitons in place. Vertical chimneys and exposed wall climbing to shoulder on north ridge then somewhat to northeast and upward following deep cracks and chimneys to summit. Summit at 7:10 P.M. Descent along southeast ridge over loose rocks to beginning of very steep wall. Forced to bivouac at about 13,000 feet altitude. Next morning, 6 A.M., rappeled down the remaining southeast wall then traversed between Teepe's Pillar and Grand Teton. Descended Teepe's Glacier* to Amphitheater Lake. Ice and deep snow made it a very difficult climb."

* To Glacier Canyon

September 13 - The Stettners, again spurning traditional routes, made an interesting climb of the Middle Teton. Starting in south Garnet Canyon, their route began by following steep ledges and a couloir to the notch in the east ridge. The east ridge was then followed over all needles to the summit.

Summary of Climbing Records