GRAND TETON NATURE NOTES

THE 1941 MOUNTAINEERING SEASON

By A. D. Cameron
Ranger-Naturalist.

Bad weather prevailed through most of the '41 climbing season, which possibly discouraged some ascents. In spite of this fact, however, a fairly normal number of climbs were made and may outstanding routes attained.

No accidents of any serious nature were reported (and no fatalities), although falling rock was responsible for a small head injury to a climber on the North Face of Buck Mountain, and a thirty foot fall by a man on the North Face of Rock of Ages was reported. Some discomfort was experienced by many climbers during much of the season due to conditions incidental to the repeated moist thunderstorms and icy conditions found on many of the routes on north exposures at high elevations, particularly early and late in the season.

Of the thirty-nine reported ascents of the Grand Teton, eight parties approached the summit from other routes than the Owen or traditional way up. Outstanding of these were the North Face and North Ridge climbs. A second ascent of the North Face route (first in 1936) was undertaken by a four-man (two rope party) consisting of Mr. and Mrs. Paul Petzoldt on one rope and Dr. Hans Kraus and Mr. Glen Exum on the other. No undue difficulties were reported but falling rock and wet rock were encountered. The climb took twelve hours from the head of Teton glacier. The North Ridge was done again for the sixth or seventh time and this time by Dr. Kraus leading and Mr. Roger Wollcot, both of New York City. The now famous Chock Stone still proved to be the greatest difficulty encountered and again wet rock added to the difficulty. Three parties attempted the East Ridge but only two were successful. The unsuccessful party and one of the others were caust out for a night of bivouacking.

On Teewinot no outstanding climbs were made, but probably a new route was made on the main East Ridge just to the right of the traditional route on the East Face and was reported more interesting because of the better rock by McLane and Rapp who made this new route. A party of fourteen boys from Altadena, California, ranging in age from eleven to sixteen years, was guided to the top of Teewinot by one of the Park rangers by the regular route.

Some of the nicest rock climbing of the summer was experienced on Symmetry Spire via the southeast ridge or so-called Durrance-Spofford Route. Five parties made this Class 4 climb and all reported excellent rock.

The Northwest Ridge of Owen was done again by the Dartmouth group and Mr. Petzoldt took a party up the steep ice and snow fields on the North Face of this mountain.

A new and reportedly excellent route was done on Mount Moran by Petzoldt and three members of the Chicago Mountain Club. This climb base camps near the foot of Falling Ice Glacier and goes up to the left or south of the great dyke. Steep slabs and narrow ledges characterize this partial 4th class climb. The more accessible approach to this route will probably make it more popular than the easier but longer Northwest Ridge route.

The great North Face of Buck Mountain was done in its entirety this summer. The couloir west of the Face had been done once before but Mr. Fred Ayres led Ranger-Naturalist Cameron and his wife up the true North Face for the first time on July 17. The greatest difficulty encountered was the second 500 foot wall at the base of the Face where many pitons were used for belay and one for direct aid.

On Nez Perce also a new North Face route was led by Mr. Henry Coulter with Merril McLane and Harold Rapp. They report a stiff fourth class climb on good rock.

The East Ridge of Disappointment Peak was led on two occasions by Dr. Kraus. A short fourth class climb is reported.

The Stettner brothers, Joe and Paul, report a new and quite difficult ascent on the North Face of Rock of Ages. They report that considerable traversing and the frequent use of pitons was necessary.

A third ascent of Teepe's Pillar via a new route from the west was reported by Dr. Kraus who led Mrs. Suzanne Kruger-Simon to the top. No pitons were used but considerable exposure was encountered and the first rope length the most difficult.

The outstanding summit in the northwest region of the National Park is Cleaver Peak. A second ascent was made to the summit by Mr. Ayres who went from Lake Solitude via Littles Peak. Some difficulty was reported in attaining the summit spire.

Mr. Ayres also reports climbing with Misses Ayres and Margaret Smith, a fairly difficult pinnacle west of Rock of Ages which he suggests they name "The Schoolhouse" because of its characteristic appearance.

There were undoubtedly other noteworthy ascents made either as variations of more regular routes or those which might have escaped official notice but we feel that as a whole the summer of 1941 was a very successful mountaineering season in spite of the exceptionally poor climbing weather.

The following is a summary of the climbs reported at the Jenny Lake Museum for the season of 1941.

Grand Total 145 Parties and 478 people.

This represents ten fewer parties than the year previous, but an increase of 22 people over that of the 1940 record of climbs.