THE MARCH OF THE FLOWERS UP THE MOUNTAIN
By Park Ranger Charles Landes
Spring is a long season on Mount Rainier. It begins with May and
ends with the early September snows.
Like the march of spring northward coming to points northward later
and later, so spring comes on the mountain. When finally it reaches the
snowline or the arctic it tarries but a short while.
The spring flowers, many of them like the avalanche lily, Red
heather, valerian and many others march up the mountain with the
departure of the snow and the coming of spring.
Flowers accustom themselves more or less rigorously to the
temperature in which they are found so that any one flower will not keep
on indefinitely climbing with spring but reaches a halting point beyond
which it refuses to go so that we have flower zones closely
corresponding to the temperature zones on the mountain. Each plant and
animal has a zone or climatic address. This zone supplies the peculiar
requirements of the plant or animal in which it can best hold the ground
against its competitors. These flower zones are so definite for some
flowers that one can fix within a few hundred feet their altitudes upon
the mountain by the Pyrolas, Heathers, and many other flowers.
These flower zones on the mountain also have a very close resemblance
to the latitude zones of plant life as you go northward to the arctic.
At the altitude of Longmire, the Canada dogwood is common, a plant not
found at sea level at the latitude of the mountain, but common at sea
level in the latitude of Southern Canada.
At the altitude of Paradise Park on the mountain you reach the
Hudsonian region or an altitude of plant distribution corresponding to
the plants at sea level in the Hudson Bay country of Canada.
The trees also make a like change. In the latitude of central Canada
they are scattered and dwarfed and in the region about central Canada
and northward they are scattered over the plains with beautiful
meadowlands between much like the park lands of altitudes of five to six
thousand feet on the mountain.
Above this region the trees are more and more dwarfed until you reach
the barren lands of the Arctic where they spread out flat upon the
grounds to protect themselves from the deep snows and the long cold
winters, finally disappearing altogether in the purely arctic regions
above just as they do in their march northward on the continent.
Finally in their march up the mountain we reach the barren lands just
below the snowline. Here we are confronted by a new problem, for the
flowers of this region for the most part did not march up the mountain,
they cannot grow at lower altitudes only a few of them having worked
downward to the tree zone. They are like Robinson Crusoe stranded on
their mountain island with eternal snows above the conditions in which
they do not thrive below.
How then did they reach their present isolated homes? This is a
problem which can be explained probably in two ways. Some of the more
hardy lowland plants have gradually adapted themselves to higher and
higher altitudes and so have marched up from below. The larger number
of the plants of this region and many of those farther down the
mountain no doubt were driven southward by the great glaciers that in
past ages moved downwards from the north and so in truly Crusoe fashion
have been literally stranded at their high elevation where they find the
conditions genial and like their former northland home. Since the
disappearance of the glaciers and the melting of the snows they have
been unable to escape except by the downward march and because they have
lived in their bleak habitat for so many centuries of time they are
disinclined to leave it.
The Ptarmigan, an arctic bird also inhabits this region and like the
flowers of the region was also left stranded in his present home and
although he can freely leave it he still prefers it to any other
home.
The life zones of the mountain are very complicated and especially at
altitudes of five to six thousand feet. Here lowland and arctic have a
common meeting ground. Here the exposed or sunny side of a canyon may
be lowland in vegetation, the opposite shady side where the snow lingers
arctic so that in a very short distance you pass from temperate to
frigid. Spring may linger in one spot throughout the entire season
about the edge of some protected snow bank.
To travel two thousand feet up a slope in some places is like
travelling two thousand miles northward. This is true when at sea level
and it is to these many variable conditions of plant environment that we
have the great variability of plant life on Mount Rainier.