NORTH CASCADES Historic Resource Study North Cascades National Park Service Complex, Washington

1. Daily Evening Traveller, 4 April 1853.

2. Majors, Harry M., editor. Mount Baker: A Chronicle of its Historic Eruptions and First Ascent. Seattle: Northwest Press, 1978, p. 10-13. Hereinafter cited Majors 1978.

3. Miles, John C. Koma Kulshan. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1984: p. 40-41.

4. Majors 1978, 14.

5. United States War Department. Reports of Explorations and Surveys to Ascertain the Most Practicable and Economical Route for a Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: 1853-55. Volume 1. Washington: A.O.P. Nicholson, printer, 1855: p. 306. Hereinafter cited as USWD 1855.

6. Gainer, Brenda. The Human History of Jasper National Park, Alberta. Parks Canada, 1981: p. 28. Hereinafter cited as Gainer 1981.

7. Johanson, Dorothy O. and Charles M. Gates. Empire of the Columbia. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1957: pp. 96-7, 110. Hereinafter cited as Johanson 1957.

8. Ibid., p. 112.

9. Ibid., p. 133.

10. Brown, William Compton. Early Okanogan History. Seattle: Ye Galleon Press, 1968: p. 1. Hereinafter cited as Brown 1968.

Lewis and Clark were on the Columbia River below the Snake River.

11. Johanson 1957, 132.

12. Brown 1968, 13-14.

13. Ibid., 16.

14. Ibid., 21-25.

Okanogan Independent 31 May 1912.

15. United States War Department. Reports of Explorations and Surveys to Ascertain the Most Practicable and Economical Route for a Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: 1853-55. Volume 12, Book 1. Washington: Thomas H. Ford, printer, 1860: pp. 31-32. Hereinafter cited as USWD 1860.

16. Thompson, Erwin. History Basic Data. Eastern Service Center, Office of History and Historic Architecture: National Park Service, U.S. Department of Interior, 1970: p. 75. Hereinafter cited as Thompson 1970.

USWD 1855, 3-4.

17. At the foot of Lake Chelan McClellan met a Spokane Indian chief who described a trail, beginning at the head of the lake, which crossed the mountains and led to the Skagit River. McClellan apparently was uninterested in investigating this information further, believing the region too great an obstacle for a railroad:

The Chelan [River] flows from the lake of the same name, lying in a narrow valley 474 feet above the Columbia . . . It is said to run back among the mountains for about thirty miles, and steep mountains close in on its shores within eight miles from the river. . . [USWD 1860, 42]

18. USWD 1860, 142.

19. USWD 1855, 197.

20. USWD 1860, 142.

21. USWD 1855, 197.

22. Majors, Harry M., editor. "Exploring the Kettle Range: The Pierce Expedition of 1882." Northwest Discovery, September 1982: pp. 89-90. Hereinafter cited as Majors 1982a.

23. Ibid.

24. Lavender, David. Land of Giants: The Drive to the Pacific Northwest, 1750-1950. New York: Doubleday and Company, 1958: pp. 293-295.

25. USWD 1855, 57.

26. Peterson, Daniel E. "The Skagit: An Historical Perspective." In Cultural Resource Overview and Sample Survey of the Skagit Wild and Scenic River by Onat, Bennett and Hollenbeck. Seattle: Institute of Cooperative Research, 1980: p. 44.

27. Dwelley, Charles M. So they called the Town "Concrete". Concrete, Washington: Concrete Herald, 1980 p. 7. Hereinafter cited as Dwelley 1980.

28. Coleman, Winifred S. "Exploratory Expeditions Through the North Cascades." The Mountaineers, 15 March 1964: p. 33. Hereinafter cited as Coleman 1964.

29. Ibid., 34.

30. Schmierer, Alan C. Northing Up the Nooksack. Seattle: Pacific Northwest National Parks and Forests Association, 1983: p. 10. Hereinafter cited as Schmierer 1983. (See DeBorde in final bibliography)

31. Majors, Harry M., editor. "The First Crossing of the North Cascades." Northwest Discovery, August 1980: p. 128. Hereinafter cited as Majors 1980.

32. Ibid., 137.

33. Thompson, 1970, 37.

34. Majors 1980, 138.

35. Ibid., 140.

36. Thompson 1970, 39.

37. Majors 1980, 146.

38. Ibid., 148.

39. Baker, Marcus. Survey of the Northwestern Boundary of the United States, 1857-1861. Washington: United States Geological Survey, Department of Interior, 1900: p. 14. Hereinafter cited as Baker 1900.

Thompson 1970, 46-50.

40. Baker 1900, 15-16.

41. Goetzmann, William H. Army Exploration in the American West: 1803-1863. New Haven, Connecticut: Yale University Press, 1959: p. 428. Hereinafter cited as Goetzmann 1959.

42. Majors, Harry M., editor. "Discovery of Mount Shuksan and the Upper Nooksack River, June 1859." Northwest Discovery, February 1984: p. 14. Hereinafter cited as Majors 1984.

43. Baker 1900, 16-17.

44. Ibid., 70.

45. Majors 1984, 4.

Goetzmann 1959, 428.

Of these twenty-some peaks, several were first ascents.

46. Custer, Henry. "Report of Henry Custer, Assistant of Reconnaissances made in 1859 over the routes in the Cascade Mountains in the vicinity of the 49th parallel." May 1866. Typescript (57 pp.); photocopy. Hereinafter cited as Custer 1866.

47. Although Custer undertook six major trips into this mountainous region during the summer of 1859, only those routes which brought him within the area of today's park are discussed.

48. Custer 1866, 5.

This typescript of the original cites June 12th as the date Custer received orders to explore the 49th parallel; most other sources cite this as an error and use July 12th as the correct date.

49. Ibid., 10-11.

50. Thompson 1970, 54.

51. Custer 1866, 13.

52. Ibid., 14.

53. Ibid., 19.

54. Ibid., 20.

55. Ibid.

56. Ibid., 24-25.

57. Ibid., 30.

58. Thompson 1970, 59.

59. Custer 1866, 33.

60. Thompson 1979, 60.

61. Since this excursion entailed water travel, a canoe was required and Custer instructed a member of his party, a Nooksack Indian, to build "a light serviceable canoe" for eight passengers. [Custer 1866, 38-39]

62. Ibid., 42-43.

63. Ibid., 46-47.

64. Ibid., 48-49.

65. Ibid.

66. Ibid., 55.

Custer's exact route in this area is not clear to author at this time.

67. Ibid., 56.

68. As a result of this later survey work, new cast metal monuments replaced nearly all of the old stone markers except one at Point Roberts, and some in less accessible places. The marker at Point Roberts is a granite obelisk 12 feet high with a rubble stone foundation. It is the only extant marker from the original survey that can be easily viewed, and, appropriately, is listed in the National Register of Historic Places [Thompson 1970, 67-701.

69. D.C. Linsley and companion John A. Tennant may have been preceded by an 1858 group of miners headed for the Fraser River gold fields although this cannot be substantiated [Majors, Harry M., editor. "Lake Chelan and Agnes Creek in 1870." Northwest Discovery, June 1981. Hereinafter cited as Majors 1981.]

70. Ibid., 382, 386.

71. Ibid., 389.

72. Ibid., 390.

73. Ibid., 391.

74. Ibid., 392-3.

75. Majors 1980, 132.

76. Stone, Carol M., comp. Stehekin: Glimpses of the Past. Friday Harbor, Washington: Long House Printcrafters and Publishers, 1983: p. 4-5. Hereinafter cited as Stone 1983.

77. Ibid., 6.

78. Ibid.

79. Ibid., 7.

80. Ibid., 9.

Klement's specific route to the Methow River drainage is not known to date.

81. Majors 1982a, 92-3.

82. Majors 1982a, 93.

83. Symons, Lieutenant Thomas W. Report of an Examination of the Upper Columbia River. Washington: U. S. Army Corps of Engineers, Dept. of the Columbia, 1882: p. 40. Hereinafter cited as Symons 1882.

84. Ibid., 40.

These pictographs are extant today though nearly illegible because of vandalism.

85. Alfred Downing made a trip up Lake Chelan as a private citizen in 1889.

86. Coleman, 1964, 30.

87. Ibid.

88. Majors, Harry M., editor. "An Army Expedition Across the North Cascades in August 1882." Northwest Discovery, May 1982: p. 12, 16. Hereinafter cited as Majors 1982b.

89. Ibid., 24.

90. Ibid.

91. Ibid., 28.

92. Ibid., 36.

93. Ibid., 37.

94. Ibid., 44.

At Bridge Creek Pierce noted: "above the ford was a rude bridge of drift-logs, joined with strips of cedar-bark, and ballasted with stones." Pierce believed that this bridge was built by the Indians who preferred crossing it rather than risk the "formidable current." [Majors 1982b, 42].

95. Halfway up the slope Pierce noticed a miner whom he had met earlier (in the vicinity of War Creek) descending. The old prospector had "a look of utter discouragement upon his face". Pierce was quickly advised by the man to retreat, claiming the ascent was impossible for pack animals.

96. Majors 1982b, 46.

97. Ibid., 52.

98. After traveling what he believed was approximately 26 1/2 miles Pierce stopped for the night "beneath some moss-grown Oregon maples that shaded an old Indian camp" (a site believed to be near present-day Monogram Creek). Nearby along the bank of the Cascade River Pierce found two log canoes which he concluded was a good omen as it meant navigable water lay ahead [Majors 1982b, 58].

99. Local Indians refused to believe that Pierce and his company of men had arrived on the Cascade River from the summit: "The old man [Indian] apparently 70 years of age, claiming that he had never seen a white man go or come that way, and that it was impossible for any one but an Indian to keep the trail." [Majors 1982b, 68].

100. Majors 1982b, 69.

101. Ibid., 70.

102. Ibid., 83.

103. Ibid., 106.

104. Ibid., 96.

105. Ibid., 103.

106. Rogers, Albert Bowman. Papers 1857-1889. Washington State Historical Society, Tacoma, Washington: 6 July 1887. Hereinafter cited as Rogers.

107. Rogers 2 July 1887.

108. Rogers 9, 17 July 1887.

Rogers learned from Sanders that Bridge Creek was the route the Indians traveled when going to the Skagit River from the Methow/Twisp region.

109. Rogers 7 October 1887.

110. Washington Board of State Road Commissioners. Records 1895-1896. Washington State Library Manuscripts, Olympia, Washington: 1896, p. 2. Hereinafter cited as WBSRC.

111. WBSRC 1896, 37.

112. Schmierer 1983, 10-11.

113. Ibid., 11.

114. WBSRC 1896, 2.

115. Ibid., 1.

116. Ibid.

117. Ibid., 3-4.

118. Ibid., 4.

119. Ibid., 7.

120. Ibid., 8.

121. Ibid. 10.

122. Ibid.

123. Ibid., 12-13.

124. Ibid., 8.

125. Ibid., 15.

126. Ibid., 18.

127. Ibid., 14.

128. Cryderman, J.J. "Report of Reconnaissance Through the Baker Range." August-October 1900. Photocopy.

129. Ibid., 4.

130.