Prince William Forest Park An Administrative History

In 1939, the Chopawamsic RDA received its first National Park Service manager. He succeeded Charles Gerner and William R. Hall. Upon his arrival, work on the five cabin camps was substantially complete. Ahead lay the challenge of developing a system of roads and bridges for the park, especially a main entrance. Day-use facilities yet to be constructed also remained in the plans.

The man called upon to meet these challenges, Ira B. Lykes, was destined to leave a lasting impression on the park's development. In 1939, funding for the CCC program was winding down. At the same time the pending U. S. involvement in World War II was causing massive changes in the priorities of the federal budget. As a result, principal sources of labor for park construction, the CCC, PWA, and WPA forces, were being diverted to military projects. Secretary of the Interior Ickes prided himself in foreseeing war long before others in the cabinet did. Not surprisingly, PWA funds under Ickes' jurisdiction were used to build two aircraft carriers, four cruisers, four heavy destroyers, four submarines, two gunboats, and more than 130 aircraft. [68] In this atmosphere obtaining appropriations for a small park serving primarily the underprivileged of Washington might have seemed hopeless.

However, Ira B. Lykes was a resourceful man. Former employees characterized him as a hard-headed, demanding boss possessed of great determination and creative ability. [69] Local government leaders remember most his remarkable abilities in public relations. [70] Area residents remember his kindness and concern for community affairs. [71] Former employees and community people alike note his unquestioned commitment to the success of the park as the spark which sets him apart from other park rangers.

Lykes managed the Chopawamsic RDA from 1939 to 1951. During his tenure as manager he witnessed major social and economic changes affecting Prince William County and his park alike. The World War II military build-up brought with it a major expansion in the Quantico Marine Corps Base bordering the park. As the Washington bureaucracy grew, Prince William County was transformed from an agricultural community into a suburb of Washington causing an increase in both the number and diversity of its people. Accepted patterns of segregation in the surrounding community were in conflict with NPS standards. Facing these many challenges and changes, Lykes was poised to leave a lasting impact on the park. His tenure yielded the park its greatest boon: a network of roads at a fraction of their real cost; and its greatest headache: an ongoing land dispute with neighboring Quantico Marine Corps Base.

From the outset, public relations became Lykes' top priority. [72] Lykes maintained a good working relationship with the "major domos" of local politics, county officials, state politicians, officials of the National Capital Parks, Army and Marine commanders, wildlife organizations, Washington charitable organizations; in short, anyone who could further the interests of the park. His guiding principal for building good public relations was the belief in meeting people "on their level." [73] Yet, everyone he came in contact with knew who was the boss. An administrator who set perfection as the goal, he could be most exacting with those who worked for him. [74]

Persuasion was Lykes' principal management tool. For instance, rather than confront poachers, he preferred to "convince people they shouldn't do it." [75] Well placed acts of kindness helped him win over a few disgruntled area residents. Mary Byrd, an elderly black woman, could count on near weekly visits from Lykes at which he would present her with a much loved can of snuff. If a new baby was born, Lykes came by with a gift. [76] Christine Curtis, as a young clerical worker, learned to drive from Lykes. [77] Through such carefully directed acts of kindness, the park became synonymous with Ira B. Lykes in Prince William County. This firm grounding in peoples' affection allowed Lykes to be hard-headed and demanding and still inspire loyalty. [78] The only group unfazed by his easy going ways were area moonshiners. Lykes and Sheriff Lay would hide out in the woods hoping to catch them, to no avail. The elusive bootleggers would escape downstream before he had an opportunity to exercise his powers of persuasion upon them. [79]

Shortly after arriving in the park, Lykes determined that numerous improvements were necessary to augment public access to the park. Chief among these was the need for a good system of roads within the park. Shrinking budgets and an uncertain labor supply would make this an onerous task at best. Nevertheless, Lykes believed he was "built to be bothered." Whatever the obstacles he would build roads. [80]

Funding was the most stubborn obstacle to new construction. Lykes' first attempt at securing federal allocations for the park taught him just how contrary the process could be. The two CCC camps in the park in June of 1941 were to be used exclusively for defense-related construction projects on nearby military installations. (See Illustrations One for detail on the CCC camps.) Hoping Chopawamsic's status as an RDA would qualify the park for funds from the Federal Security Agency for a nationwide WPA defense recreation program, Lykes gamely applied for funds. [81] The most significant improvements sought were an entrance road, dam and sanitary facilities. Alas, his gamble failed. "Certified defense projects" already in operation at Fort Belvoir and other military federal agencies called for more workers than were available. [82] Chopawamsic's roads were simply not a war time priority. (For details see the 1939 Master Plan in Appendix III.)

Military Occupation of the Park

After 1942 the defense needs of the nation totally superseded the recreational needs of the underprivileged. In this atmosphere, Lykes placed his future plans for the park on hold as he feverishly safeguarded the park's very existence. As early as 1938, military maneuvers had been conducted in the park by forces from Quantico and Fort Belvoir. [83] By 1942, the practice had become so commonplace that Lykes complained the Marine Corps "have assumed the right to enter upon the area without advising or consulting this office." [84] Finally, in May of 1942, the War department was granted a special use permit allowing it exclusive use of all five cabin camps. [85] From 1942 to 1945, the park was occupied by the Office of Strategic Services (OSS).

During this time, it became Lykes' special duty to preserve the original concept of the park in the minds of the community, the military, and the federal budget planners. Lykes tackled this chore with his most valued administrative tool: persuasion. Throughout this period Lykes gave lectures to area community groups on forestry, land reclamation, and recreation. He used his knowledge to train Marines from Quantico in the latest fire-fighting techniques. [86] Area civil defense groups were reminded of the value of the park as "hospital space. . . [in case of] an air attack on Washington, D. C." [87] Lest the Marines over-value the park for maneuvers, Lykes continually cited the park's willingness to "give special precedence to requests for fish to be used in stocking recreation areas" to enhance the park's recreational value to nearby military personnel. [88] However good the cause, Lykes was determined to get his park back at the end of the war.

It was inevitable that Lykes would be called to the military. As a first lieutenant in the USMC stationed at Quantico, however, Lykes could "serve two masters." [89] At Quantico Lykes directed the forestry program on base. Years later, Lykes remained grateful to Maj. Gen. Philip H. Torrey, commanding officer at Quantico, for his appointment as his service as a Marine got him "away from the stomach-turning roughhouse of OSS!" [90]

On weekends, Lykes caught up with his duties as park superintendent. During the week, the park's sole wartime employee, Miss Thelma Williams, served as "acting park superintendent." [91] From the one-room temporary office headquarters off Joplin Road, Miss Williams managed all of the park business, holding unfamiliar matters or matters requiring Lykes' direction for his weekly visits. The building's amenities included a wood stove and an outdoor toilet. These she shared with the OSS' single clerical employee, a secretive man given to drink. [92] From his home in the park Lykes could keep an eye on changes being made by the OSS in route to work at Quantico. Their combined presence served to remind the military personnel that they were guests in a national park.

Cooperation with the OSS

The OSS occupation was a critical period in the park's history. During this time the potential existed for the park's land and facilities to become a permanent military installation. Lykes thwarted this eventuality through close cooperation with the military and a firm control over alterations made to the park. This was no simple task.

The "greatest secrecy" covered everything the OSS did. Even Lykes had to pass a military checkpoint to enter and leave his home. [93] Rumors were rampant. The community watched as barbed wire fences were erected and armed men patrolled with guard dogs. The old haunt of bootleggers and poachers was completely shut off. The secrecy led area residents to conclude "they were up to no good. Must be housing German prisoners of war there." [94]

In actuality, they were training spies there. [95] The cabin camps housed officers being trained to penetrate enemy lines and gather intelligence. Old buildings were booby-trapped and destroyed. A "little Tokyo" was built in the woods and regularly assaulted in training practice. A new plane, the C-24, flew over the park night and day as men learned to parachute jump. [96] Despite the adventurous nature of this training, it was carried out with deadly seriousness. Students were not permitted to gather in groups larger than four. An unexplained absence could result in imprisonment for the remainder of the war. [97] A Colonel Hickson once called upon Lykes to serve as a guide during a manhunt for a misplaced student. Given a 45-caliber pistol and told to "shoot first and ask questions later," Lykes was relieved that the student was not found while he was an aide to the group. [98]

Promoted by the Marine Corps to captain by the end of the war, Lykes related well to his military tenants and, not surprisingly, persuaded them to help him over his major obstacle: funding.

By November 1, 1941, the park had acquired 14,446 acres of land. [99] The five cabin camps were not connected by a system of internal roads, requiring a nine-mile trek over state roads to get from camps one and four to camp three. Lykes hoped the "army occupation" would be a "splendid opportunity" to build "at least temporary connecting roads between the organized camps, particularly camps one and four and the central road." [100] However, Lykes abandoned his scheme in light of past difficulties in getting "the army to stop unnecessary auto traffic," at odds with sound conservation practices. [101] Nevertheless, by 1945, the Army did maintain "certain roads in good condition," built barrier gates on the roads into the park, winterized the cabin camps, and leveled the houses on lands bought by the Army during the war. [102] (See map NCP 6.5-122, 1950 for details on Army purchases.) Despite the displacement of the organized campers and the obvious reconditioning of the park facilities necessitated by the OSS occupation, the park reaped a substantial benefit from its wartime experience. Lykes had located a new source of funds: the Defense Department. (See Illustration Three for details on OSS changes to the park. See Illustration Four for details on the status of roads in the park.)

ILLUSTRATION III

OSS CHANGES TO THE PARK

Types of Weapons Used

rifle ranges
mortar gun, mortar and rocket range
demolition range firing live chargers - timber
demolition ranges firing live chargers (2) - steel cratering fragmentation grenade range
pistol, carbine and sub-machine gun night-firing course
demolition range firing live chargers - general
mortar range (abandoned)

* (6.5-64, 1946 source)
** dead launching grenade found in the roof of one of the cabins in Camp 3, summer of 1985 by Jim Fugate, Chief of Maintenance.

ILLUSTRATION IV

ROAD CONSTRUCTION PROGRAM IN 1939

Roads and Facilities to be Obliterated

Buildings:

• temporary headquarters off Rt. 626
• remaining structures on Old Joplin Road on 626
• remaining structures on 623 and Dumfries and Batestown

Roads:

• all county roads
• state roads: 620, 646, 628, 643 (where it joins Rt. 620)

Roads Extant in the Park

North end of park: 623, 629, 643, 644, 619

South & central section of park: 626, 619, 620, 628, 648

Roads to be Retained

619 and 623 up to the camping area in the Negro section

* All roads not otherwise identified are state routes
** Source: NCP 6.5-107, Base Map of 1937

Importance of Post-War Community Relations

In 1946, Capt. Ira B. Lykes was once again able to direct his full energy into camp management as he prepared for the summer camping season. He had the assurance of 1st Lt. Charles L. Spear, CE, commanding the Bomb and Shell Disposal team of Fort Belvoir, that the area was "long since cleared" of unexploded mortar shells, booby-traps, and other explosive devices. [103] (See map NCP 6.5-64, 1946 for the exact location of weapons areas.) Thus assured that his was not the "forbidden forest" of literature but once again a natural preserve for man and beast, Lykes renewed his community liaison efforts. Given the proximity of the park to the Quantico Marine Corps base and its recent wartime usage, without community support the park could easily have been swallowed up by the Korean Conflict military build-up. Speeches to groups like the Prince William Chamber of Commerce gave Lykes a forum to outline the benefits of having a national park in the county, announce plans for the Chopawamsic Recreation Area, and appeal for allies in the upcoming budget wars. [104] Lykes gained some powerful community backers.

Prince William County was firmly controlled by the Byrd organization. Requests for funds went through its long-term congressman, Judge Howard W. Smith. Smith relied on the local arm of the Byrd organization for advice on specific projects. Locally, the few men of power and influence were the businessmen, doctors, large landowners, and lawyers. [105] Lykes made it his duty to befriend them all. A key friend was Dudley Martin who owned a Chevy dealership in Triangle. [106] A leading citizen, Martin was very active in the politically influential Chamber of Commerce. Another intimate, Dr. Ben Philips, served with Lykes on the Civilian Defense Board. Philips was also a member of the Prince William County Board of Supervisors for many years. Another associate, Charlton Gnadt, was Commissioner of Revenue for the county and a proud member of the Byrd organization. Gnadt personally interceded with Judge Smith on behalf of the park on numerous occasions. [107] Charlie Cloe, a "major domo" of Dumfries politics, was charmed by Lykes and could also be counted on to "see Judge Smith about doing things." [108] Lykes eschewed any closer involvement in politics. He always worked through others to avoid embarrassing compromises. [109] Indeed, it proved to be very useful for Lykes to be considered a "great man" by Prince William County's leading citizens. With such a powerful "home team" behind him, Lykes could move freely through the bureaucratic jungle to get approval for his plans, easily thwarting all usurpers to his park. [110]

Unique Funding of Park Roads

Lykes' acumen in public relations aside, a deft hand at procuring funds remains the acid test of any manager's performance. It is in this area that Lykes masterminded an innovative scheme which netted the park its most enduring legacy of his stewardship.

It all began quite innocently. While strolling through a field in the park one day in 1946 Lykes noticed a sign which read "caution land mines." This discovery prompted a trip to Fort Belvoir to "get the colonel to take a look." On their way back to the park the colonel and Lykes observed soldiers at Fort A. P. Hill building roads and bridges as part of a training exercise for the Army Corps of Engineers. Once constructed, the roads and bridges were torn down so that a new team could complete the exercise. This practice seemed pure folly to a man with no roads in his park. So, Lykes said to the colonel, "Hey, come on down. I've got plenty of roads for you to build." [111]

The thorn in the rose was the fact that while Army men and equipment could be used to build the roads, the NPS would have to provide the necessary cement, gas and fuel oil. [112] Not to be stymied by details, Lykes appealed to National Capital Parks Superintendent Frank T. Gartside for funds. [113] He was able to "talk him into" a $25,000 appropriation to cover the NPS side of the deal. [114]

The colonel proved to be a man of his word. At 5:00 a.m. the day after his visit Lykes was awakened by an army commander. Outside he found a company of men and their equipment. After getting the men settled into Camp Two, the commanding officer asked Lykes, "Where would you like your road?" Following a route previously surveyed, Lykes got some sticks and preceded the troops, staking out the road. Similar Army assistance continued until 1950. [115]

NPS supervisor for the road building projects was Robert C. Horne, chief of the Engineering Division. On-site supervision was provided by the Army CEs and Lykes. [116] Overall supervision of Army engineers was provided by Lt. Col. Willard McCrone. Most of the work was provided by the 62nd and 94th Battalion, Army Corps of Engineers. The bridges were designed by the 112th Battalion, Corps of Engineers. By February 1, 1949, Maj. Gen. Wirth, commanding Fort Belvoir, made an inspection tour of the park to witness the extensive improvements accomplished by his men. [117] (See Illustration Five for details on Army construction projects.) Lykes estimated the value of the Army Corps of Engineers' contribution to be well over $2 million. [118] Not a bad return on the NPS investment of $25,000 for supplies. Lykes' wartime lessons on the depth of the Defense Department's purse had paid off.

ILLUSTRATION V

CONSTRUCTION PROJECTS COMPLETED BY THE ARMY CORPS OF ENGINEERS

Bridges:

1 pile bridge on South Branch of Quantico Creek above Camp 2
1 Armco arch bridge above Camp 1
Design work: Bailey, Johnson, Hitchcock, and Hamilton

Roads:

Building:

administration building and traffic circle
central service area (5 buildings and barn)
2 ranger stations (built 1947)

Other Facilities:

earth filled dams at Camp 4
cleared and graded lake bottom at Camp 4
day use and road intersection
stockpiles: lumber (from lake bottom and road right-of-way), crushed rock (from quarry with army equipment)
demolition: all portable and temporary buildings left by the OSS near Camp 4, relocated boathouse from Camp 5 to Camp 2

(Lykes to Rot, February 20, 1948, 1460 #6)

News of Lykes' road building coup spread far beyond the Interior Department. On February 10, 1951, the Saturday Evening Post wrote of Lykes' accomplishments in an article entitled, "Do You Have A Million Dollar Idea?" He was rewarded for saving the Park Service millions of dollars with a cash award of $1,000, a princely sum at the time. [119]

Given their close working relationship, Lykes' involvement with the Army Corps of Engineers was not without amusing incidents One such incident involved the dam at Camp Four. As Lykes and an Army engineer were inspecting the site, the Army engineer asserted that his men could build the dam in one week. A bet was made and the race against the clock began. Using powerful arc lights, the men worked night and day. At the end of the week Lykes had to supply twelve cases of beer for the troops before he could take possession of his new dam. [120]

The Park Receives a New Name

In addition to road improvements, Lykes included changing the name of the park among his top priorities upon his return in 1946. Lykes believed the name "Chopawamsic" was inappropriate for the park for which he had such grand designs as it was "inclined to provoke laughter when pronounced before the uninitiated." [121] Hence, Lykes recommended to his superiors that the name Chopawamsic, devoid of "aesthetic, historic or commercial value," be dropped. Further, he suggested, "let us have done with the words 'Recreational Demonstration Area.' Let us call it a Park, which it is or will be one day soon, I sincerely hope." [122] For his park he preferred the name "Old Dominion," a name "rich in early American history, strong in meaning and character." [123]

Lykes was generally regarded as a very capable man. Consequently, his superiors were inclined to humor him with respect to the park's name. Besides, Wirth and other officials in Washington considered Chopawamsic hard to spell and cumbersome. [124] Nevertheless, the park had been given the name Chopawamsic Recreational Demonstration Area by the act of Congress which transferred the area to the NPS on August 13, 1940 (See Appendix II). No action was taken on the matter until another act of Congress was pending. In 1948 the long contemplated transfer of lands from the Chopawamsic RDA to the Quantico Marine Corps Base was the subject of congressional action. (See Chapter Four for details.) As the legislation finalizing the land transfer, was being hammered out in committee, consensus existed on a name change as "the name Chopawamsic would no longer have any particular significance after [the land transfer] as the Chopawamsic River would be outside of the park area." [125]

The name "Prince William Forest Park" was favored by Arthur Demaray, associate director of the NPS, and his assistant Conrad Wirth. Perhaps they foresaw that the Prince William County Board of Supervisors would be flattered by the change. [126] In any case, on August 20, 1948, Lykes received an official memo from national Capital Parks Superintendent Irving Root advising him that the area's new name was Prince William Forest Park. [127] Although he did not get his favored "Old Dominion," Lykes was rid of the detested "Chopawamsic" and the "certain stigma" he felt went with it. [128]