GRAND TETON NATURE NOTES

MOUNTAINEERING, 1938

by
Allan D. Cameron
Ranger—Naturalist

The 1938 climbing season in Grand Teton National Park was characterized in several ways. The first characteristic was the decrease in the number of ascents made this year in comparison to the past several seasons. This slight decrease is explained by two other characteristics of the season namely: the poor weather conditions that prevailed throughout most of the summer, and the attention paid this year by the experienced climbers in the perfection of rock climbing technique.

An extemely late spring, abundant rainfall throughout the season and an early cold spell during August did much to deter climbing activities in 1938. The unfortunate experience of two of the assistant guides in being turned back on Mt. Moran the last week of June was repeated on several other occasions during the summer. It was not until July 12 that the Grand Teton was climbed with but two other parties going up during the month. Such comments as "much snow and ice", "much ice in chimneys", "icy", and so forth were typical for the early climbs.

The attention placed by the experienced climbers in pure rock climbing is noteworthy. Emphasis was on this rock work rather than in simple mountaineering. The interest shown was in rock climbing technique rather than in summit attainment. Many new, interesting and difficult routes were explored on such ordinarily easy peaks as Symmetry Spire, Storm Point, the Grand Teton and others.

Former temporary ranger Phil D. Smith was the mountain climbing guide this season replacing Paul Petzoldt who was on leave of absence as a member of a climbing expedition in the Karokorums in India. Mr. Smith was assisted by Fred Brown, Bert Jensen and Jack Durrance.

Some of the outstanding climbs of the season may be briefly summarized here:

1. A traverse of the northeast ridge of Mt. Teewinot and ascent of the northeast face via a new route by M. Davis, H. Butterworth and Jack Durrance.

2. First ascent of the north face of Teewinot by W. Rice, Bishop and D. Grant.

3. Second ascent of Teepe's Pillar by Rice, Biglow, Konberg and Jensen.

4. Second ascent of the south face of Symmetry Spire via the Durrance Spofford route by Jensen and Davis.

5. First ascent of Symmetry Spire via the ridge east of the main couloir on the south face by Davis, Brown and Jensen.

6. Another new route on Symmetry Spire via the southwest ridge by Jensen and Spofford.

7. A new route on Storm Point via the south face and ridge by Jensen, Rice and Biglow.

8. First traverse of the Grand, Middle and South Tetons by Butterworth and Durrance

9. First ascent of the Grand Teton via the northwest ridge by Durrance and M. Davis.

Even though many parties were considerably hampered by weather so that fewer people climbed the Teton Mountains than for several years, I think the season was most successful. Much was done in exploratory work and in perfecting real rock climbing technique.

There is tabulated below a summary of the ascents in the Tetons during the 1938 season: