ITINERARY
Below Clinton the character of the canyon is much the same as it is above that place. The hills range from 1,500 to 2,000 feet in height above the stream, and the slopes are everywhere strewn with the debris of the red shale of the Spokane. Bonner (see sheet 19, p. 144), at the mouth of Blackfoot River, is noted for its lumbering industry, being the location of some large sawmills. The river has been dammed below the mouth of the Blackfoot, affording about 4,000 horsepower, which is converted into electricity and transmitted to Missoula and the towns of the Bitterroot Valley. At Bonner the traveler again comes upon the route of Lewis and Clark, for on his return trip Lewis ascended Hell Gate Canyon as far as this point and then turned to the north up Blackfoot River. Six miles west of Bonner, Hell Gate Canyon terminates abruptly,1 and a short distance beyond this termination is situated the flourishing town of Missoula.
From the station at Missoula a good view may be obtained of the steep side of the valley, which rises like a mountain on the east. The knob north of Hell Gate Canyon is Jumbo Mountain, and the larger mass south of the canyon is University Mountain. The slopes of these mountains are free from trees and brush, and on looking closely it will be seen that they are marked by many horizontal lines (fig. 29) which become very prominent when they are covered by a slight fall of snow. These lines have attracted general attention, and many theories regarding their origin have been suggested. Some have supposed that they are stock trails, but it is now generally agreed that they are undoubtedly beach lines cut by a body of water that occupied the broad valley in which Missoula is situated and also many other valleys in this part of the mountains. According to the markings on the valley walls, the water must have been nearly 1,000 feet deep where Missoula now stands.2
Missoula, one of the most important towns of western Montana, is situated on a broad plain at the lower end of Bitterroot Valley, which extends southward for a distance of at least 75 miles. It is the junction of a branch line of the railway which runs up the Bitterroot Valley to Stevensville, Hamilton, and Darby. At Missoula is located the University of Montana, and a little below the town, on the opposite side of the river, is Fort Missoula, one of the principal military posts in the mountain region. The first permanent settlement in this region was made in 1841, when Father De Smet founded the Mission of St. Mary at the point where Stevensville is now located. He established the mission for the Salish or Flathead Indians, who then occupied the valley but who later were transferred farther north to a reservation which is crossed by the Northern Pacific in the vicinity of the towns of Ravalli and Dixon. Father De Smet was joined in 1843 by Father Anthony Ravalli, who labored faithfully with the Indians throughout a long and busy life. These two priests had great influence on the early settlement of this region, and their services have been commemorated by the naming of towns in their honor. It was to the entrance of the canyon above Missoula that the name Hell Gate was first applied. The Blackfeet Indians, residing on the plains east of the mountains, were noted fighters; and many were the forays they made through this canyon on the more peaceful Flatheads on the west. The French traders and trappers, on account of the devastation wrought by the marauding parties that emerged from the mouth of the canyon, called it Porte d'Enfer, which may be translated Hell Gate. The isolation of Missoula in the early days and its distance from the outside world are well illustrated by the slowness of returns from some of the elections; thus it is reported that the settlers in the Bitterroot Valley who voted in the presidential election of November, 1856, did not know the result until April, 1857, when an Oregon paper describing how Buchanan had been elected was brought into the valley.1
As the train leaves Missoula, the traveler can obtain on the left (south) a good view of Lolo Peak, a high summit of the Bitterroot Range, which lies south of the Lolo trail that played so important a part in the early exploration of this country. He can not, however, see much of the Bitterroot Valley, for the view is obscured by some low hills on the south side of the river. The railway runs through a broad valley, with low, rolling hills on the right composed of Tertiary lake beds in which, near milepost 121, low-grade coal is being mined in a small way. The faint beach lines of glacial Lake Missoula, which are so prominent on the side of Mount Jumbo, can be followed with the eye along the north side of the valley for several miles.
At De Smet, 7 miles west of Missoula, the road branches, one line turning to the left (west) and following Clark Fork to Paradise, with a branch across the mountains to the Coeur d'Alene mining district, and the other, the old main line, turning sharply to the right and reaching Jocko Valley through the Coriacan Defile. This narrow pass is reported to have been an Indian highway and it takes its name from Chief Coriacan, of the Flatheads, who was surprised and killed here by the savage Blackfeet.
The railway winds around the hills, through cuts in the Tertiary lake beds, and passes over the Marent viaduct, which has a height of 226 feet. It continues up through a narrow gulch in the Belt series until finally it reaches a broad flat at Evaro, near the summit of the ridge. This place was formerly on the boundary of the Flathead Indian Reservation. A few years ago each Indian was allotted a certain amount of land, and the remainder of the reservation was thrown open to settlement. On this summit and in the descent on the farther side the road runs through the pine forest that formerly covered much of the country, but it soon emerges into the broad, flat Jocko Valley, in which there are some fairly good farms. At milepost 16 an excellent distant view can be obtained of the terminal moraine which once marked the extremity of a small glacier that descended from the canyon in the range to the right. The plan of the moraine can not be seen from the train, but close inspection would show that the ridge of rocky fragments comes down from the canyon wall on one side and loops around and unites with the wall on the opposite side of the creek. As can be seen from the train, the moraine is built up to a height of about 100 feet. The mountains on the right (east), though not so high as the Mission Range, which can be seen farther on, are steep and rugged, towering above the valley to the height of several thousand feet.
Arlee is one of the towns that have begun to grow since the reservation was thrown open to white settlers. It lies in a broad valley containing rich agricultural land and will doubtless in time become an important farming center. A familiar scene in this valley is shown in Plate XIX, A (p. 119).
Just below Arlee faint beach lines can be seen on the right (east) near the base of the hill, and a short distance farther on a terrace of fine light-colored sediment is prominent on the same side of the road. This terrace can be followed with the eye as far as the canyon by which the river escapes from the valley. It is composed of brownish clay and sand and is supposed by some to be the sediment deposited at the bottom of Lake Missoula, or it may have been deposited by the present stream when it was ponded by a greater volume of water flowing down Flathead River from the melting glaciers to the north. The broad valley in which the railway is situated is surrounded on all sides by rocky walls, through one of which the stream draining the valley has cut a deep gorge. Such a basin is seldom, if ever, produced in the normal development of a stream, but is common in the mountainous part of Montana. It is supposed to have been formed by the depression of the bottom of the basin, thus leaving the walls standing high above the valley floor.1
The rocks exposed in the walls of the canyon belong to the Belt series and consist largely of quartzite and argillite. In many protected places in the canyon the white sand and clay deposited by the flooded Flathead River can be seen, showing that this body of water filled not only the valleys where they are wide, but also the narrow canyons connecting them.
At Ravalli the valley is narrow, but the hills are smooth and comparatively low. A stage line runs from this place north 30 miles to Polson, at the lower end of Flathead Lake, where connection is made with boats for Kalispell and other towns on the Great Northern Railway. Ravalli is the distributing point for a large part of the Flathead Reservation. Much of the best land for agriculture lies across the ridge north of the station and extends from St. Ignatius to Flathead Lake. A large part of this area is to be irrigated by the United States Reclamation Service.1
St. Ignatius, 4 or 5 miles northeast of Ravalli, is one of the Catholic missions early established in this region.2 It was originally located farther down Clark Fork, but in 1854 was removed by Father Hoecken to its present position, on a fertile plain at the foot of the Mission Range, which affords an abundant supply of good water for household use and for irrigation.
Half a mile north of Ravalli is the southeast corner of the Montana National Bison Range, which is surrounded by a specially woven wire fence that can be seen for several miles north of the track. The range, which is under the management of the Biological Survey of the United States Department of Agriculture, includes both prairie and mountains and is over 30 square miles in extent. The buffalo herd now numbers 75, besides which there are a few antelope, deer, and other large game animals. Just beyond Ravalli, at milepost 31, the traveler can obtain a charming view of the rugged tops of the Mission Range on the right (northeast). This view includes the highest peaks of the range and is the most nearly alpine scenery to be found along the Northern Pacific Railway in the Rocky Mountains.
The terraces of soft material, resting against slopes composed of the Belt series, show almost continuously along the valley of Jocko River, first on one side and then on the other, growing stronger downstream. They reach their best development at Dixon, where the Jocko joins Flathead River, which comes down from the north. This river drains Flathead Lake, which lies 26 miles to the north and is one of the largest bodies of fresh water lying wholly within the United States. The river is navigable for small steamers from Dixon up to a point within a short distance of the lake, where rapids stop further progress. At Dixon the material deposited in Lake Missoula is fine white sand and clay, being the "rock flour," or fine rock powder, which a glacier grinds from its rocky bed and which is carried off by the streams, giving them a milky appearance. It was brought down by Flathead River from the immense glacier that long ago occupied the entire valley of Flathead Lake and the country farther north, where the town of Kalispell now stands. This material was deposited in the waters of the lake in thin layers (laminae) that give to the cut edges of the material a banded appearance. It is probable that the glacier occupying Flathead Valley reached at its greatest extension nearly or quite to the place now occupied by the town of Dixon, but there is no evidence that it passed farther down the valley. At milepost 40 a more extended view than that obtained farther up the valley can be had of the Mission Range, including its highest summit, McDonald Peak, and a small glacier lying in a deep amphitheater on the north face of the peak, where the ice is sheltered from the rays of the midday sun. This is the only glacier in the Rocky Mountains that can be seen from the Northern Pacific trains. (See Pl. XIX, B, p. 119.) This noble range marks the eastern boundary of the Flathead Reservation and is the western limit of a broad wilderness of mountain ranges that extend to the margin of the Great Plains and include farther north the rugged mountains of the Glacier National Park. The Mission Range was named from the Roman Catholic mission established at St. Ignatius, near its base, in the early fifties. The range can be seen by the traveler from a point a little west of Dixon to McDonald, and if the weather is clear the view can be relied on to hold the attention, especially from early in October until late in June, when the rugged outlines of the range are veiled under a shining cover of snow. The nearest peaks are about 24 miles away and rise to heights of a little more than 10,000 feet above sea level, or about 7,500 feet above the railway. This chain of mountains lies on the east border of the broad grassy plains of the Flathead Valley and extends in a remarkably straight line due north and south for nearly 60 miles. The straightness of the mountain front and the sheer abruptness of its rise to heights of 7,000 feet above the low, flat plains at its base make a topographic contrast that is rarely equaled in any other part of the Rockies. This remarkably abrupt front is due to the mountain range being a single huge block of the earth's crust raised and tilted to the east and broken away from the block underlying the lowlands of the Flathead Valley, the unusually straight front of the mountains corresponding closely with the plane along which this break took place. The hills on both sides of the railway are made up of rocks of the Belt series, which show little variety in the different beds of which it is composed or in the positions in which they lie. The valley walls are generally dark, and they are fringed on one side or the other by remnants of the lake terrace, which can always be identified by their light color. In the lower part of the valley, between Dixon and Paradise, the railway follows the banks of the river for several miles, and the traveler can obtain many attractive views of the broad river and its wooded islands, set off by the dark background of the rugged hills. Near Perma the river turns to the left and cuts a narrow canyon through the ridge which above this place bounds the valley on the left. In this part of its course the Belt series is cut by many dikes and sheets of igneous rock (diorite), showing that at one time there was considerable disturbance in the region. The most prominent of these igneous sheets shows in a bold hill on the north side of the river, nearly opposite milepost 50. The igneous material was intruded between the layers of the sedimentary rocks, which subsequently have been turned on edge, and the diorite now forms a conspicuous outcrop for a number of miles to the north.
At Perma another sill of the same sort as that described above crosses the river almost at the station, making a loop through the cliffs immediately to the left and then crossing the river about 1-1/2 miles farther west. This loop is caused by the folding of the sheet of igneous rock, together with the inclosing sedimentary beds, into a great anticline, but the bedding is so obscure that the fold can not be traced from the train. Twenty miles to the north is Camas Hot Springs, a small settlement where bath houses and hotels are maintained for the use of summer visitors who wish to bathe in the warm mineral water. Below Perma the canyon is deep and narrow, and its walls are very precipitous. Just beyond milepost 55 the railway crosses to the north side of Flathead River, at a point where several diorite sills are conspicuously exposed. From this point to Paradise the valley has high, rocky walls that rise 1,500 to 2,500 feet above the valley floor. The rocks are dark brownish red, but the large masses of broken rock below the cliffs are a much brighter red and give to the valley the appearance of being decorated with great red banners that are caught up at the base of the cliffs and stream down to the valley bottom in long, graceful curves. The walls are rugged and picturesque, but there is little or no variety, and one soon tires of watching the selfsame combination of river, talus slopes, and cliffs. The river, however, is really worth attention and presents many charming views of the clear water; almost turquoise-blue, sweeping around willow-covered islands and between the stately pines that dot the river's bank. (See Pl. XX.) The terrace of soft material doubtless once continued throughout the canyon, for here and there can be seen remnants of the white clay that vary the monotonous red of the valley walls.
At milepost 62 Flathead River unites with Clark Fork, sometimes called Hell Gate or Missoula River. The low-grade line of the railway, which leaves the main line at De Smet, follows the winding course of Clark Fork and at Paradise, a short distance below this milepost, connects with the main line. Paradise is a district terminal and so becomes the stopping place of many of the freight crews. The traveler, like others who have gone over this road before him, may wonder for what reason the name Paradise was given to this narrow, rugged valley. The writer has no suggestions to offer, except that even this valley may have looked like a paradise to some unfortunate individual who had been obliged to cross the adjacent mountain country, or who had perchance been lost in the intricate mazes of its deeply cut ravines. At Paradise the change is made from Mountain to Pacific time, one hour earlier. The valley of Clark Fork between Paradise and Plains has about the same character as that of Flathead River above Paradise. The rocks are similar, belonging to one of the oldest sedimentary formations known in this country (Prichard). The low terrace which is so conspicuous at Dixon and which is there composed largely of fine material scoured from the bedrock by the glacier that came down Flathead Valley still persists below Paradise, or, rather, remnants of it can be seen here and there on both sides of the valley; but the material is pink, partaking more of the color of the local rocks and in places containing gravel beds of considerable thickness. To the traveler interested in the geologic history of this region some of the most instructive features of the topography are small deltas or terraces in the side gulches at a height of fully 400 feet above the level of the track. A typical example can be seen on the right (north) just beyond milepost 1. Evidently these deltas mark the mouths of small streams that at one time flowed into a lake whose surface was at the level of the terrace. The lake must have been very transient to have left no other evidence of its existence, and probably it was merely a low stage of the body of water called glacial Lake Missoula.
Plains, formerly known as Horse Plains because it is situated in the midst of a broad prairie that was used as a pasture ground for horses belonging to the trading posts of the Hudson's Bay Co., is a sort of oasis in the desert of rocky canyons along Clark Fork. Here the valley opens and terraces are well developed, especially one about 170 feet above river level. East of the station the terrace shows on the north, but west of the town a large remnant of the terrace, equally well developed, can be seen across the river on the south. Faint beach lines also appear on the high, smooth hill slope back of Plains, but it is probable that the lines visible from the railway are not the highest in this region, the others being obscured by the timber and brush growing on the higher hills. One of the most striking features of the valley of Clark Fork is the fairly regular succession of narrow canyons and broad valleys, without any apparent reason so far as the action of the stream is concerned. These changes are not due to differences in the hardness of the rocks, for as a rule all the formations of the Belt series have about the same degree of resistance to erosion; but they are due to great breaks or faults in the rocks. These faults have broken the crust of the earth into huge blocks, some of which have been raised, some lowered, and some tilted over so that one edge is very much lower than the other. These dropped or tilted blocks form the broad valleys, and the raised blocks or the upper edges of the tilted blocks have proved to be serious obstructions in the pathway of the river, which has succeeded in cutting only narrow canyons through them. This explains the broad valley at Plains and the narrow canyons which lie directly above and below that place. The breaking into blocks and then the tilting of these blocks into various attitudes seem to have been the movements that gave to this region its distinguishing structural features.1 In some of these blocks, as, for example, the one which lies between Plains and Thompson Falls (see sheet 20, p. 152), the rocks are slightly bent into broad, open folds. The structure in this block is represented by figure 31.
The rocks in sight east of Plains belong to the Prichard formation, which dips to the west and passes below water level, and at Plains the thin-bedded gray quartzite and argillite of the overlying (Ravalli) formation come into view. This formation continues with fairly regular dip to a point about one-half mile beyond Weeksville. At this place the Newland limestone, overlying the Ravalli, appears, dipping in the same direction and at about the same angle as the Ravalli. Within a short distance the dip flattens, and at milepost 15 is reached the point toward which the beds dip from both directions; that is, the axis of the syncline. The beds here are nearly horizontal, but toward the west they begin to rise, and near milepost 18 the Newland limestone disappears from track level, though still present in the tops of the hills, and the Ravalli formation beneath it again comes into view. From this place past Eddy and Frost to the mouth of Thompson River, near milepost 26, the cliffs are made up of Ravalli rocks thrown into folds or wrinkles too small to be shown in the diagram (fig. 31). The walls in this part of the canyon are probably more rugged and more nearly vertical than those of any other part of its course.
bul/611/sec20.htm Last Updated: 28-Mar-2006 |