GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS Guidebook 1941

ASTRIDE the Tennessee-North Carolina border, the Great Smoky Mountains, greatest mountain mass east of the Black Hills of South Dakota, cast a spell of mystery and enchantment. From the lush vegetation of their valleys and extending to the tops of their lofty peaks, there rises a tenuous mist, a deep blue haze, from which the mountains get their name. Survivals of earliest geological times, they are a portion of the Appalachian Range and one of the oldest land areas on earth.

The Great Smokies, for 36 consecutive miles in the park, are more than 5,000 feet in altitude; 16 peaks are more than 6,000 feet high. The park is 54 miles long; its greatest width is 19 miles. The range meanders through the park for a distance of 71 miles. The park eventually will comprise approximately 440,000 acres, or 687.5 square miles.

History of the Park

Establishment of the park was authorized by act of Congress, approved May 22, 1926. Three decades before that the area was little known to the outside world. DeSoto, first white explorer on this continent, is believed to have viewed the mountains. They were the home of the Cherokees, many of whose descendents now occupy the Qualla Indian Reservation on the southern fringe of the park. The white settlers were colonists from England and Scotland, and they lived for generations shut off from the outside.

The successful movement for establishment of the park was begun in 1923. Since 1926 the land for the park has been acquired gradually by the States of Tennessee and North Carolina, with Federal aid, in addition to a contribution by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., through the Laura Spelman Rockefeller Memorial, in tribute to his mother.

Thousands of automobile travelers pause each year at Newfound Gap, the highest point (5,045 feet) on the transmountain highway, to admire sweeping views into North Carolina and Tennessee.

Mountaineer Culture in the Great Smokies

Great Smoky Mountains National Park presents a unique opportunity to preserve frontier conditions of a century ago, which have vanished elsewhere. The cultural and human interest aspects of this park are as outstanding as its scenery and vegetation.

The white population of the region still exhibits the pristine ruggedness and self-sufficiency of the pioneer period shortly alter the American Revolution.

Several typical mountain communities remain intact within the park boundaries, and may constitute valuable outdoor exhibits in a proposed "museum of mountain culture." Already large collections of household goods, tools, farm equipment, weapons, chiefly primitive and hand-wrought, have been assembled. Studies of the folklore, ballads, linguistics, genealogy, and local traditions initiated several years ago are being continued. These cultural studies contemplate a regional picture of native folk life in the Great Smokies.

Laurel Falls. Actually two falls, separated at a 15-foot shelf by a trail. This is the upper fall.

Forests

The most extensive forest of virgin red spruce and unspoiled hardwoods in the United States is to be found in the park, with nearly half the area, or approximately 200,000 acres, in its original forested condition. Some 129 native tree species have been found. In addition, 18 other varieties, not native, grow here. A number of plants ordinarily regarded as shrubs become arborescent or tree-like in their growth. One specimen of mountain laurel is 82 inches in diameter at the base, with limbs 31 and 12 inches in diameter. Chestnuts, red maples, buckeyes, black cherries, silverbells, hemlocks, red spruces, yellow birches, and tulip poplars—all become giants of their kind.

The Plant Life

Few, if any, areas in the entire United States possess so great a variety of plants. More than 1,200 flowering plants, 1,000 fungi, 300 mosses, approximately 200 lichens, and 100 liverworts have been found. The earliest flowers occasionally appear by the close of January in lowland areas, while the witch hazel, latest to bloom, may hold its blossoms into December. Late April finds the spring flowers, including the abundant dogwood, at their blossoming peak; May is best for the mountain laurel; middle June usually finds both the flame azalea and purple-pink rhododendron at their finest; middle July is likely to be the peak of the great white rhododendron's flowering. Autumn colors are excellent throughout October, with the height of coloration near the end of the month.

This water-operated grist mill is among the physical remains of early mountain culture found in the park.

A Wildlife Sanctuary

Here, as in all national parks, wildlife is given complete protection. No hunting or trapping is permitted. Since establishment of the park such animals as black bear, white-tailed deer, red and gray fox, raccoon, bobcat, squirrel, wild turkey, and ruffed grouse have become more numerous. More than 50 species of fur-bearing animals, some 200 birds, 34 reptiles, 36 amphibians, and 60 fishes are known to occur here.

The feeding, touching, teasing, or molesting of bears is prohibited. This regulation is enforced strictly for the protection of the public. Persons using park trails have nothing to fear from unmolested bears. If tempted by food, however, some bears, which frequent sections of the motor road, become dangerous. They should not be fed or approached.

Climate

Summer days are usually warm or hot in the lowland areas and cool in the higher mountains; the nights are cool. By retreating to the mountains one may invariably find relief from the heat.

Spring arrives early in the lowland areas and progressively later at higher elevations. Weather conditions are particularly favorable in autumn, with less rainfall at that season. Winters are variable, both as to severity and length, but they normally are mild in the lowlands.

Rain, snow, and fog often are encountered in the mountains during the winter. Roads are kept open all year, but the transmountain highway sometimes is closed for a few hours during heavy snow or sleet storms when snowplows cannot keep it open. Snows are infrequent in the park, but persons planning to drive through in winter should have chains in their automobiles. Roads are posted if driving conditions are unfavorable.

Qualla Indian Reservation

Visitors will be interested in the Cherokee Indians on the Qualla Reservation, which is immediately south of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Although the Government has instituted here a comprehensive system of education and modern methods of living, ancient ceremonies, and sports are still preserved as tribal customs. The Indians still play the Cherokee game of ball, one of the world's most strenuous sports. Many are expert in archery and in the use of the blowgun. In 1838 most of the Cherokees were removed to Oklahoma, but hundreds escaped to the fastnesses of the Great Smoky Mountains and could not be found. The Cherokees on the Qualla Reservation are descendants of those who hid in the mountains.

A typical view of the Smokies, with Mount La Conte and other high peaks in the background.

Roads and Trails

There are 56.5 miles of high standard roads in the park, including the transmountain highway from Gatlinburg, Term., to Bryson City, N. C., via Cherokee. Clingmans Dome Highway reaches an altitude of 6,311 feet, the highest highway in the East.

Twenty-five miles of secondary roads and 675 miles of horse and foot trails are open to the public for hiking and riding.

The park highways offer exceptional opportunities to view the grandeur of the Great Smokies, The transpark highway crosses the mountain range, and spur roads to trails lead to many points of interest.

There are trails of all types to suit the individual requirements of park visitors. Some are four feet wide on easy gradients; some are improved foot paths; others merely a track through the forest. All are marked with directional signs. Hikers using graded trails need not wear any special hiking clothes, since well-traveled trails are maintained clear of brush and are drained.

Trailside Shelters

There are 8 trailside shelters along the 71-mile Appalachian Trail from Davenport Gap to Newfound Gap (31 miles), and Newfound Gap to Deals Gap (40 miles). These are nearly equally spaced for easy one-day hiking trips. Shelters are closed on three sides, and provided with six bunks. A fireplace is in front and a spring nearby. Camping at shelter cabins is restricted to one night unless inclement weather does not permit leaving next day.

Horses, Pack Animals, and Guide Service

Horses and pack animals can be rented by the hour, day, or for longer periods in the towns bordering the park. Guide service is also available in these towns. Rates are reasonable.

Fishing

There are 600 miles of ideal trout streams in the park, restocked annually. Rainbow and brook trout and small-mouth bass lure the devotees of Izaak Walton. Persons desiring to fish must obtain licenses from Tennessee or North Carolina, or both. Catches are regulated, and headwater streams may be found closed for restocking. The fishing season is from May 16 to August 31. Current regulations may be obtained from the office of the superintendent or from rangers or wardens.

A meal under way at a camp site.

Interpretive Service

Beginning in June, and continuing for a period of 5 months, a program of naturalist-guided field trips and lectures is available. This service is maintained by the Government and is free to the public.

Naturalists meet hikers at designated points in the park and conduct visits to outstanding objectives over good trails. Plant and animal life is discussed informally along the way. There are several types of walks ranging from 2 hours to all day, and once a week an overnight trip is made to Mount Le Conte. Illustrated lectures are given in the evenings at frequent intervals, chiefly in the Gatlinburg hotels, and these serve to acquaint the visitor with the natural history of the area.

Mimeographed programs describing the nature-guide service are available (June-October) at headquarters and at subheadquarters, and are posted in hotels and various places throughout the park.

Mid-May normally brings the mountain laurel to the peak of magnificence.

Rules To Be Observed

Please help to keep the park clean. Do not scatter papers, picnic remnants, etc.; throw all trash into receptacles in picnic areas and campgrounds.

It is unlawful to disturb flowers, shrubs or trees, to mar or deface signs or buildings, to carve initials on any object. Do not throw stones or other material over the banks or at trees, birds, or other objects in the park.

Speed limit is 35 miles per hour on highways, 20 miles per hour on secondary roads. Drive carefully; keep to the right; do not use the mountain roads to test the performance of your auto. Report all accidents in the park to a ranger.

Persons desiring to camp in remote sections of the park can secure permits from the office of the superintendent or from rangers or wardens. Camping or building of fires, unless at designated camp or picnic grounds, is prohibited except by permit. Auto camping is allowed only on campgrounds designated by signs, and permits are not needed. Camping is restricted to periods not exceeding 30 days. Individual sites are provided with fireplaces and free wood supply.

Extinguish fires completely before leaving. Be sure cigarettes and matches are out before disposal. Lunches may be eaten along roadsides, but do not build fires there.

Only those having special permits (obtainable from the superintendent) may collect botanical, zoological, or geological specimens in the park. Such permits may be granted to competent scientists upon application.

Cats are not permitted in the park. Dogs must be held on leash.

The feeding, touching, teasing or molesting of bears is prohibited.

A foot bridge invites the hiker across Little Pigeon River.

How to Reach the Park

Paved highways from all states converge at Asheville, N. C., and Knoxville, Tenn. Bus lines maintain service to both cities. The Southern Railway and the Louisville and Nashville Railroad serve Knoxville. The former also serves Asheville. From Knoxville bus service is available via Sevierville to Gatlinburg. In addition, two round trips are made daily between Gatlinburg and Asheville, going through the park. Excursions by bus also may be made from Knoxville, stopping overnight at Gatlinburg and continuing to Knoxville via Maryville, Tenn. Buses provide trips from Asheville via Waynesville to Bryson City, or through the park overnight to Gatlinburg, and return.

Accommodations

Free modern campgrounds are provided at Smokemont, N. C., and Chimneys, Tenn., on the transmountain highway. They have water and sanitation facilities. Privately owned accommodations within the park now are operated under temporary permit at Elkmont and atop Mount Le Conte. Mount Le Conte is accessible by foot or horseback only. Hotel and tourist camp facilities are available in all the cities and towns fringing on the park, and at Knoxville and Asheville. Requests regarding accommodations in the towns bordering the park should be addressed to Knoxville Tourist Bureau, Henley St., Knoxville, Tenn.; Chamber of Commerce, Asheville, N. C.; Gatlinburg Chamber of Commerce, Gatlinburg, Tenn.

Near Alum Cave. Approximately 675 miles of horse and foot trails lead through changing scenes of mountain or cove.

Administration

Park headquarters, with the superintendent in immediate charge, are at Gatlinburg, Tenn. The chief ranger maintains headquarters at Oconaluftee Ranger Station, N. C., on State highway No. 107; post office, Cherokee, N. C.

Approximately 600 miles of trout streams await rod and reel.

Road and Trail Distances

GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK (click on image for a PDF version)