National Park Service National Park Service Uniforms Breeches, Blouses, and Skirts, 1918-1991

Although women married to National Park Service personnel had assisted their husbands for years as unpaid help (like the military, it came with the territory), their first appearance as "official" employees of the National Park Service occurred in 1918.

Clare Marie Hodges, 1918, Temporary ranger, Yosemite National Park. Hodges, a local grade school teacher in the valley, was one of the first two women to be hired by the National Park Service. Since a uniform was not specified for women, she is shown wearing what were termed "camping clothes" at that time, with only a badge to indicate her Park Service affiliation. NPSHPC-HFC/YOSE#931

The first two "Rangerettes", as these early women were known, were Clare Marie Hodges (Wolfson) and Helene Wilson. They were hired as temporary employees to fill vacancies left by men who responded to their country's call to arms to "save the world" in Europe. Helene Wilson, from Los Angles, checked in vehicles in Mount Rainier National Park, while Hodges, a local grade school teacher, performed ranger service at Yosemite from May 22 to September 7, 1918.

It is not known what type of uniform, or identification, if any, that Wilson wore. There are, however, at least three photographs of Clare Hodges while on duty. She is mounted on horseback in all of them. One is a group shot of the Yosemite ranger force in which it is difficult to distinguish her clothing. The other two images are of her and her mount. Both appear to have been taken at or around the same time. From these she appears to have worn what was referred to at that time as "camping clothes". There are no pieces of regulation uniform evident, except for a badge and perhaps her hat.

In the early years, women found it very difficult to penetrate the male dominated National Park Service. It was only through the foresight of people like Horace Marden Albright, then superintendent of Yellowstone, and Washington Bartlett "Dusty" Lewis, superintendent of Yosemite (who hired Hodges), plus a few others that women were given a chance to show that they could perform the required duties as well as their male counterpart. Even so, it would be decades before this was truly put to the test.

Albright hired Isabel D. Bassett as a guide at Yellowstone in 1920. [1] This started a trickle of women into the service. Marguerite Lindsley (Arnold) and Frieda B. Nelson were hired in 1925; Frances Pound (Wright), 1926; and Herma Albertson (Baggley) in 1929. Only temporary, or seasonal, to use today's vernacular, female employees were hired to perform ranger duties. All permanent positions for women were classified as naturalists, even though some of them did occasionally perform ranger duties.

Gov. Nellie Ross, Freida Nelson & Supt. Albright, 1925, Yellowstone National Park. Ross was governor of Montana at the time and Horace M. Albright, park superintendent. Nelson is wearing the standard men's uniform, cut for a woman, with riding boots and women's gloves. NPSHPC-YELL/131,465

Herma Albertson, 1929, ranger-naturalist, Yellowstone National Park. Albertson was one of the women that wore the complete male-style Park Service uniform, including regulation boots. She married Chief Ranger George F Baggley, while in the Service, and worked until the end of 1933. NPSHPC-YELL/130,092

Apparently due to proximity, and shared interests, most of the early Park Service women tended to marry fellow employees. Even so, these ladies had a "tough row to hoe". The National Park Service had no provisions, uniform or otherwise, for women. Consequently, they were left, pretty much, to their own devices as to what they were to wear. Herma Albertson wore the standard ranger uniform, including the hat, tailored to fit her, while Frieda Nelson and Margaret Fuller wore the same standard uniform, but tailored for women. (buttoned right to left). Others attached their badges to formal hunting coats, sweaters, or any other article of clothing that struck their fancy.

Marguerite "Peg" Lindsley, c. 1925. Naturalist, Yellowstone National Park. Peg was the daughter of Chester A. Lindsley, acting superintendent, Yellowstone National Park, 1916-1919, and the first permanent female naturalist in National Park Service. Peg and her horse Rex. Lindsley is wearing a hunting coat, probably red, with a badge and USNPS collar ornaments. She also, apparently wore the hat, as evidenced by the one on the ground. NPSHPC-HFC/93-326

Marguerite "Peg" Lindsley. Naturalist, Yellowstone National Park. But this is how she dressed most of the time when working. NPSHFC-YELL/130,391

Mr. & Mrs. Charles McNalley - Rangers at Tuolumne Meadows, YNP, 1926. Eva Cora McNalley and her husband Charles A. were a husband and wife team of temporary rangers at the Tuolomne Meadows checking station, Yosemite National Park. Eva is wearing a military web belt with a holster for an Army 45 cal. automatic pistol, although the butt protuding from it appears to be a revolver. Her only signs of authority are her badge and the sidearm on her hip. She's probably only wearing the weapon for the photograph. NPSHPC - James V. Lloyd photo - HFC/YOSE#RL-7370

One of the photos of Marguerite Lindsley show her wearing a ladies riding coat and jodhpurs with a ranger badge, but in the majority of existing images, she is wearing civilian garb without even a badge to denote her Park Service affiliation.

Martha Sophia Bingaman, who assisted her ranger husband John W. Bingaman as a temporary, wore her badge on a loose civilian vest to show that she was part of the Service.

Martha Bingaman, 1926, seasonal ranger, Yosemite National Park. She assisted her ranger husband, John W. Bingaman, who was assigned at the time to the Alder Creek Entrance Station. Unlike men, temporary women rangers were not required to wear a uniform. NPSHPC - HFC/YOSE#943

Francis Pound, on the other hand, wore what appears to be a uniform of her own design. It consisted of the standard boots, breeches, shirt and tie, but with a very long coat, almost to the knees, with slash pockets. Two bottom and one upper on left. It may have been a regular civilian variety, although it appears to be the same material as the breeches, which were probably the standard forest green. Although not shown in any of her photographs, she is known to have occasionally carried a sidearm. [2]

Frances Pound, 1925, Yellowstone National Park. Pound was another child of the parks, growing up and sometimes patrolling with her ranger father, before joining the service herself. Here is another case where, due to the lack of uniform regulations covering women, the ranger was left to her own devices. Her knee length coat with slash pockets is undoubtedly of the standard forest green material. For decoration. she has a badge, sleeve brassard, and a pair of collar ornaments at the points of her lapels NPSHPC-YELL/130,375

Enid Reeves Michael, temporary ranger-naturalist, Yosemite National Park. Michael was hired by Superintendent Washington Bartlett Lewis as a seasonal in 1921, and served in this capacity for over twenty years. She never wore a uniform. NPSHPC - HFC/77-63

Pauline "Polly" Mead (Patraw) also wore the standard NPS uniform, but sported a wide floppy brimmed hat, patterned after those worn by the Harvey girls, on her head.

Pauline Mead, temporary ranger-naturalist, Grand Canyon National Park, 1929-1931. The first year (1929, at left), Mead wore civilian clothes with, maybe a USNPS collar ornament for decoration. In 1930 (at right), however, she obtained a uniform on the man's pattern, but instead of the Stetson, the superintendent preferred she wear a soft brim hat, such as that worn by the Fred Harvey Girl Guides of the Southwest. Mead's employment ended after she married Assistant Superintendent Preston Patraw in 1931. NPSHPC - HFC/WASO I-393 (left) and NPSHPC - HFC/WASO I-392 (right)

Although during these early years there was an occasional cry in the wilderness concerning the uniforming of women in the Service, [3] nothing was done until Carlsbad Caverns and other parks that utilized women for guides and positions that brought them into contact with the public, came under the influence of the National Park Service.

Among the recommended changes to the regulations submitted by the uniform committee in 1927 were two that would have effected women had they been implemented. One called for them to wear the regulation uniform, at the discretion of the director or park superintendent. The other though, would no doubt have created quite a furor if it had been included in the new regulations. It called for female employees not required to wear a uniform to wear a collar ornament [USNPS] "conspicuously on the front of the waist of the dress". [4]

Even when the changes were made, they only replaced breeches and boots with skirts and shoes and possibly eliminated the hat. Photographs show that there were two styles of skirt worn during this period. One type had wide box pleats and the other appears to be simply a full skirt with natural fall pleats. The coats were the standard male style, tailored to fit, although, some were cut on the female pattern.

The majority of existing photographs showing women in Park Service uniforms from this period are from Carlsbad Caverns. These show that when hats were worn, at least at that location, they ran the gamut from chic little light colored items perched on the side of the ladies heads, to standard military overseas patterns of forest green wool.

c. 1930s. These two women are wearing the standard coat, one cut on the woman's pattern, the other on the man's. Both are wearing white stockings. The woman on the left is wearing a patch of some kind on her right sleeve, but it doesn't appear to be a ranger brassard. Shoes are heavyduty serviceable type. NPSHPC/CACA#7487	1937. This woman ranger is wearing a man's style coat with a chic little hat perched on her head. NPSHPC/CACA#7490
Lila Michelsen, guide at Carlsbad Caverns National Park, 1931. Michaelsen is wearing a standard (men's) coat with a skirt. Badge is probably PARK RANGER. NPSHC-T.C. Worley Photo-CACA#3534	1941. Lila (Michaelsen) Hansen. This photograph of Michaelsen, now Hansen, shows her wearing what may be the hat prescribed in the 1947 Uniform Regulations. "Soft felt hat with small snap brim, turned up at back and sides and down over the forehead in front, in matching color with narrow grosgrain ribbon on dark green color." But, since it's the only known image of anyone wearing this particular hat, we can't be sure. This shows the USNPS starting to be worn by women on their hats. NPSHPC/CACA#3534
Guides at Carlsbad Caverns National Park, 1932. These women were classified as guides, although one (second from left) is wearing a ranger brassard. Most images of women in Park Service uniform from this period were taken at this site, due to the number employed there. Thomas Boles, superintendent, (1927-1946) is standing in the center. NPSHC/CACA#7493A
1939. Overseas caps apparently were in vogue prior to WW II. Three women are shown here wearing WW I versions in 1939, while Appell appears to have on a beret. Left to Right: Marguerite Walker, Myra Appell, Lizzie Bee Harris, Anita Armstrong. NPSHPC/CACA#7492

In the spring of 1940 the Fechheimer Brothers Company forwarded drawings for a distinctive uniform for Park Service women to the uniform committee chairman for the committee's perusal. [5] It is not known whether these were solicited or just a bit of entrepreneurship on the part of Fechheimer. Fechheimer was a very aggressive company and usually attended the conferences in order to answer questions concerning uniforms as well as being there when decisions were made.

Due to the lack of official guidance, early Park Service women wore whatever the park superintendent or their own whim dictated. Badges were pinned on all types of clothing to identify their association with the Park Service. NPSART-Gilbert B. Cohen, artist-HFC/ARM#GR-0002 1 thru 5

Margaret Fuller Boos, c. 1929, temporary ranger-naturalist, Rocky Mountain National Park. Boos worked two seasons at the park, 1928-1929. She wore the same uniform as the men in the park, except cut for a woman. Left to right: Edmund B. Rogers, supt; (?), Margaret Fuller Boos, (?), (?) NPSHPC-HFC/ROMO#58 1-2

At the Superintendent's Conference in January 1941, women's uniforms were on the agenda. It would seem logical that Fechheimer's sketches would have been presented at that time, but the tone of the official correspondence indicates otherwise. It refers to the distribution of the drawings after the conference. This of course does not preclude the possibility of them being discussed at the meeting and distributed afterward.

Unfortunately, since these drawings have not been located we have no way of knowing exactly what the uniforms looked like. From the correspondence it can be determined that they contained two different uniforms, "A" and "B"; that one of them, apparently "B", had a short coat, while "A" 's coat was of the longer variety, similar to the men's; and both included an "overseas" cap. A shirt with a high collar and a necktie were also defined. [6] This uniform sounds very much like that adopted in 1947.

As word leaked out about the proposed uniforms, women began writing Fechheimer Brothers inquiring as to prices and material samples prompting Uniform Committee Chairman John C. Preston to admonish Fechheimer to "advise the one making the inquiry that to date no definite decision has been reached by the uniform committee concerning the style of uniform for women employees of the National Park Service." [7]

Ranger Naturalists and Naturalist Staff, 6/13/33, Yellowstone National Park. Herma Albertson Baggley is shown with the rest of the naturalist staff at Yellowstone during her last year with the Service. Left to Right: R. Spaulding, Frank Oberhansley, Herma Albertson Baggley, Charles Hutchins, H. Stagner, H. Lystrup, Dr. McDougall, Dr. C.M. Bauer NPSHPC-HFC/WASO #70-53-2

The whole matter of women's uniforms was a very "controversial subject", with every one having their own ideas as to what form it should take. Some didn't like the shirt (the style worn by men) and thought that a sports blouse should be substituted instead. Others believed that the hat should be omitted, or at least changed.

Since the whole matter of women's uniforms pertained to women it was decided that a committee of women should be set up to decide the issue. Consequently, on October 20, 1941, Jean McWhirt Pinkley (Frank "Boss" Pinkley's daughter-in-law), Junior Park Archaeologist (seasonal) at Mesa Verde National Park was appointed Chair, along with Myra Appell, Registered Nurse, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, both in Region III, and Gertrude S. Cooper, Superintendent, Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site, (first female superintendent of a national park) and Mariana D. Bagley, Assistant Historical Aide, Colonial National Historical Park, of Region I as members of the committee. Women from Regions II and IV were omitted since there were no women in these regions required to wear the uniform. [8]

Aztec Ruins National Monument, New Mexico, June 13, 1940. Left to Right: Homer Hastings, Georgia Akers, Stanley Milford, Joyce Chubb, Thomas C. Miller (Custodian), Zelda Mae Abrams. NPSHPC-George A. Grant Photo-AZRU#209

Jean W. Pinkley, c. 1940s. Pinkley, the daughter-in-law of "Boss" Pinkley, became a noted National Park Service interpreter and archeologist. She is shown here as part of the uniformed staff at Mesa Verde National Park. NPSHPC/HFC#94-497

The December 7, 1941, Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor and the resulting General Conservation Order M-73-a, which reserved wool cloth for military uniforms, halted all further speculation in Park Service uniforms, women's, as well as men's.

Things remained "status quo" for the next year or so. In the meantime, Fechheimer intervened with the War Production Board, on behalf of the National Park Service and obtained a dispensation for uniform material on the basis that the Service was an essential Government agency.

When Order M-73-a initially came down, Director Newton Drury, on the recommendation of Uniform Committee Chairman John C. Preston, proclaimed the National Park Service would do its "bit" toward the war effort and made the field jacket and trousers the standard apparel for ranger wear for the duration, since they required less material to make. Those with coats could still wear them as long as they were serviceable and in good repair. New coats could be purchased as long as existing material lasted at the suppliers. Even after Fechheimer's "slight of hand" artifice, the Service still maintained the jacket status, but in reality, it was left up to the individual rangers whether or not to comply since the material was available.

Scotts Bluff National Monument Personnel, c. 1944. Office personnel were required to wear uniforms at this time and although Meinser is classified as a "Junior Clerk Stenographer," she is wearing a badge, something that was supposed to have ceased per order of the Director in 1920. Note also, the USNPS pin on the front of her overseas cap. Left to Right: Custodian Merrill J. Mattes, Junior Clerk-Stenographer Ethel L. Meinser, Park Ranger Sneddon. NPSHPC/SCBL#1531

With the able bodied men again going off to war, women, especially NPS wives, were enlisted to help in the parks, particularly in the offices and entrance stations. At that time, in the field, even office help wore uniforms. While not specified in the uniform regulations, in 1943 a material saving uniform was specified for women. That uniform consisted of:

"Coat, 16oz. elastique 'WAAC' type. Skirt, 16 oz. elastique, gores and 4 pleats. Overseas Cap, 16 oz. elastique. Shirt, steel grey poplin with shoulder straps and pleated pockets. Necktie, four-in hand, 'Barathea' dark green. Oxfords, cordovan color, plain toe Belt, using NPS hat-band for this purpose with buckle to be added." [9]

This last item, the belt, must have been the occasion of much mirth. None of the photographs examined of uniformed female personnel from this period show anyone wearing this belt, or for that matter, anyone able to wear it. The hatband only allowed for a 24" waist and that was with the uniform on.

As with the men, women who had been uniformed continued to wear the man's style coat throughout the war as long as it was presentable. A photograph of Ethel L. Melnser, stenographer at Scott's Bluff National Monument, taken in 1944, shows her wearing an "overseas" cap with a USNPS collar ornament in front, standard men's style coat, semi-full skirt, shirt (appears to be gray), tie and shoes. It is interesting that even though her title is stenographer she is wearing a badge. Except for the cap, this is essentially the same uniform worn by Lila Michaelsen, Guide at Carlsbad Caverns in 1931.

Women's dress, 1930s & 1940s Women's uniforms began to become standardized when Carlsbad Caverns National Park and its uniformed women guides came into the fold, but the first official regulations pertaining to women were not issued until 1947. NPSART - Gilbert B. Cohen, artist - HFC/ARM#GR-0002-6 & -7

After the war, the subject was taken up again and after much debate, a standard uniform for the women of the National Park Service was finally authorized on June 2, 1947 with Amendment No. 1 to Volume 19 (1947) of the National Park Service uniform regulations. Even then, it was segregated under the heading of "Special Uniforms".

"The standard uniform for all Service areas in which women are required to wear a uniform in the performance of their official duties while engaged in public contact, interpretive, or protective work, shall consist of the following:

Coat: The standard men's fatigue jacket.

Skirt: Six-gore skirt of same material as jacket.

Hat: Soft felt hat with small snap brim, turned up at back and sides and down over forehead in front, in matching color with narrow grosgrain ribbon on dark green color.

Shirt: Convertible or standard Peter Pan collar type of steel-gray color. Long sleeves but toned at the wrist. Shirts may be worn open at the neck when so authorized by the superintendent. Such authorization, when granted, shall apply to all uniformed personnel within an area.

Necktie: Draped bow of soft scarf material, or four-in-hand tie. Dark green in color. (During the summer season, the necktie may or may not be worn, subject to the conditions prescribed in the preceding paragraph.)

Shoes: Oxford type, dark brown color, plain toe.

Stockings: Neutral color.

Belt: Not mandatory. (The standard National Park Service hat band may be adapted for this purpose, if desired, by the provision of buckles instead of the standard thong for lacing.)

Buttons: Regulation National Park Service buttons are prescribed.

Insignia: Same as for men employees

Materials: Same as for men employees."

The Mission Church from the southwest, Tumacacori, NM, 1947 (detail). Sally Brewer (Harris) is shown standing at the church entrance in a plain skirt. Coats could be left off in hot climates at the discretion of the superintendent. NPSHPC/George A. Grant Photo/HFC#C47-GG-687

Uniform for Women Employees, 1947 Uniform Regulations - Amendment No. 5, May 1950. This image of Olive Johnson wearing a modified style WAAC Army uniform was used to illustrate the women's uniform in the Amended 1947 NPS Uniform Regulations. Even though the "overseas" cap was not addressed in the regulations, it was being worn by the women and thus, included in this picture. NPSHPC/HFC#96-1326

The National Park Service, at last, was recognizing women. Granted, their uniform was classified under the "Special" category and there was only one, instead of three, like the men, and their coat was not the men's dress blouse, just the "standard men's fatigue jacket", but at least they were being acknowledged as part of the uniformed establishment.

There must have been some agitation concerning their wearing the fatigue jacket and WAAC hat, because when the regulations were amended on May 24, 1950, to include photographs to "illustrate the proper uniforms and the correct methods of wearing them", it shows the woman wearing an adaptation of the Women's Auxiliary Army Corps (WAAC) blouse and Army "overseas" cap, even though there are no amendments authorizing it. This followed the Service's move toward the military styling (men's belted coat, etc.) after the war. This decision must have come soon after the issuance of the regulations, since there are no known contemporary photographs of women wearing either the "fatigue" jacket or WAAC hat, although, there are several contemporary images depicting women wearing the "WAAC" blouse and overseas cap.

Viola V. Shannon, park guide, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, 1951. This portrait shows the recessed pockets of the uniform, as well as the USNPS pin on the "overseas" cap. NA#79-SM-35

Olive Johnson, Doll's Theatre Big Room, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, 4/1953. This early color photograph shows that Johnson's hat and coat are 2 different colors. The coat appears to be "Army" green and her cap forest green. The Arrowhead patch had just began to be issued the previous Fall. NPSHPC/Prasil Photo/HFC#WASO-CO-2240

While color photography had been around for some time, the majority of photographs were taken in black and white. There is , however, a 35mm color transparency, taken in 1953 of Carlsbad Caverns Guide-Nurse Olive Johnson. Her coat (WAAC) is of a very dark green (similar to Army officer's coats) while her overseas cap appears to be about five shades lighter. This variance does not show up in an earlier black and white image.

Another item not mentioned in the regulations, but which was incorporated into the uniform, was the wearing of one of the USNPS collar ornaments on the front of the overseas cap, a practice that had been fashionable for a number of years.

When new regulations were drawn up 1956, those pertaining to women's uniforms remained the same, even to the wearing of the men's fatigue jacket (now called the standard men's field jacket). Apparently, bowing to the inevitable, Amendment No.4 restored the overseas cap in October, 1957, but nothing is said about the coat.

Seasonal Ranger-Historians, 1957 Season, Roosevelt-Vanderbilt National Historic Site, Hyde Park, New York. Though all three are Seasonal Ranger Historians, only the men are wearing badges. Left to Right: Henry Werle, Arlene Stokes, Daniel de Francis. NPSHPC/HFC#96-1327

In 1960, the National Park Service issued a written statement on the employment of women in uniformed positions, urging administrative officials to consider fully all qualified applicants for vacancies within the Service. It states that the National Park Service should "employ in its uniformed positions the best qualified men and women available." However, it goes on to say "women cannot be employed in certain jobs, such as Park Ranger or Seasonal Park Ranger...in which the employee is subject to be called to fight fires, take part in rescue operations, or do other strenuous or hazardous work..." but that "Participation by women employees in lecture programs, guided tours, museum and library work, and in research programs would be entirely appropriate and very helpful in many Parks. Increased attention may also be given to children's programs in some Parks and to extension work to schools for which women interpretive employees may be even more effective than men." [10]

This interpretation of the roles of women in the Service probably had more to do with the design of their uniforms than any overt act of discrimination in quality or variety.

New regulations had been issued in 1959 to take effect on January 1, 1961. These new regulations only provided for dress uniforms for women. A winter version made from 19-oz. all wool elastique and a lightweight tropical weave, 50-50 wool-dacron , version for warmer climates. Both were to be forestry green in color. Corresponding material was to be used for hat, jacket and skirt in each uniform. Sketches were included in the regulations of the hat, jacket and skirt.

"Dirty-work" clothing was to be civilian "garb" without any identifiable National Park Service garments or insignia. The uniform was to be worn only by women employees whose duties involved primarily contact with the public. Occasional contact or brief relief assignments in which contact with the public occurred did not qualify them to wear a uniform.

Mrs. Mitsuko T. Shikuma, 1962. Shikuma was an Information-Receptionist, at Park Headquarters and Visitor Center, Hawaii National Park, Hilo, Hawaii. While not substantial enough for field duty, the 1961 uniform was well suited for this type of activity. NPSHPC-HFC#96-1328

The hat was to be designed after those worn by American Airline Stewardesses (Delta Uniforms #A-707) at that time. USNPS was to be embroidered in gold on the front in 1/2-inch letters. However, this was changed to silver on March 21, 1960, prior to the regulations taking effect, when it was noted that gold was not consistent with the other ornamentation on the uniform. (silver USNPS and badge). [11]

The jacket was also styled after that of the airline stewardess. It was a four-button model (Delta #A-703), tailored to fit, with the small arrowhead patch on the left shoulder.

The skirt was to be straight with front and rear 10" kick pleats proportioned to size. (Delta #A-703) It was to be worn without belt.

The blouse could be made out of any suitable white fabric. It was to be short sleeved, open necked, (a tie was no longer part of the women's uniform) and plain design without pleats or ornamentation. Patch was to be worn on left sleeve, same as jacket.

Shoes were changed to grace the new uniform. They were no longer just oxfords, but now any women's shoes with either low, Cuban or French (high) heels could be worn. They were to be of a plain cordovan colored closed toe and heel design, without slashing or other conspicuous ornamentation. (brilliants, large bows, ribbons, etc.)

Stockings remained a neutral shade (silk, nylon, or similar fiber) and overshoes could be either zippered galoshes, like the men, or black rubberized calf-length pull-on boots.

Jewelry, except for rings and wristwatches, was not to be worn.

Stormcoats and raincoats were to be the same as the men's.

Women's uniforms in the 1960s. The 1961 pattern uniform was authorized in the 1959 Uniform Regulations, but was not to become effective until January 1,1961, but more than likely, anyone purchasing a uniform in 1960 ordered the new pattern. For some unexplained reason, the uniform was changed again in 1962. The material and color remained the same so the effect was minimal. NPSART-Gilbert B. Cohen, artist HFC/ARM#GR-0002-6, -7

Illustration in the 1961 National Park Service Uniform Handbook depicting the new 'Airline Stewardess" style uniform hat. Chapter 5, Page 11. National Park Service Archives, HFC RG Y55

The 1961 pattern women's hat. This hat had a more pleasing appearance on paper than in person. It was changed to the more familiar "Buffalo Chip" design prior to the introduction of the 1962 pattern uniform. This hat has the small arrowhead crudely whip-stitched on the front indicating it was worn after the uniform change in 1962. NPSHPC-Steve Ruth Photo HFC#96-1343

The 1961 uniform regulations were very liberal in defining the uniform for women. Certain items were specifically spelled out, but variations were allowed at the numerous parks. For instance, when Helen Lindsley was hired at Yellowstone, she was informed "You will need a women's uniform hat, dress coat and skirt in the 100% wool, 19 oz. elastique material. You will need a couple of plain white blouses - in the past our girls have had the best luck ordering women's shawl collar shirts from Gregory's, Greely, Colorado . . . Don't buy uniform shoes - you will need something suitable for walking and will do best with plain dark brown loafers . . . suitable raincoat is required, and the best bet (if you don't already have one of a buff, beige, or tan color) is one in a Balmacaan style [loose single-breasted overcoat with raglan sleeves and a short turnover collar] - a zip-out lining is more versatile but not mandatory. Other than these items, hose should be a plain neutral color - seamless preferred. If you carry a purse on duty it should be plain and brown." [12]

After distribution of the new regulations, complaints and suggestions began to come in from the field. One particular item dealt specifically with women. It involved the location of the badge and nametag. The uniform regulations provided for women to wear the badge on their jacket, but the only location specified was on the left breast pocket (for men). There were no breast pockets on the women's jacket and this general location was too low for a good appearance on a woman. It was decided to raise and center both items, badge on left and name tag on right, 2" below the notch in the jacket collar. This location allowed both items to lay snug against the coat.

Another item of contention was that of women wearing the badge. The majority of the 45 career uniformed women employees performed information and interpretive functions. Since there were no women rangers at that time, the rest must have been classified as naturalists or historians. Some women expressed strong opinions against wearing the badge, while others were just as adamant for it. [13]

This was later resolved by is suing the women a silver arrowhead pin, the same size as the tie tack, "in lieu of a badge", though superintendents had the option of issuing them a regular badge, if they so desired.

Mary Bradford relates the experience of when she received her pin, she was very unhappy about it. Visitors did not consider her having any authority and would by-pass her to talk to the "ranger with the badge". So she refused to wear it and requested a badge from her supervisor. He agreed with her and issued her a regular ranger badge. Unfortunately, when she pinned it on her uniform it proved to be too heavy for the material. But, exercising that 'old ranger know-how', She stuck the pin through her jacket and fastened it to her bra strap.

Illustration in the 1961 National Park Service Uniform Handbook depicting the new "Airline Stewardess"style uniform. Chapter 5, Page 10. National Park Service Archives, HFC RG Y55

Viola V. Shannon - Worked at Cavern from 1941 to May 1968 - Started as elevator operator, later guide, finally Supervisory Guide. Photo was taken on 2/17/1962. NPSHPC-CAVE#1833

On January 30, 1962, Amendment No.4 to the uniform regulations brought yet another change for the uniformed women of the National Park Service. The new uniform, although of a different cut, was made from the same material as that previously worn. Consequently, it only altered their appearance slightly. The reason for the change is not known, since existing official correspondence does not address this issue.

In addition to the uniform changes, the regulations now allowed women employees on duty in areas administrated by the National Park Service to wear the uniform, when authorized to do so by the Director or superintendent.

The USNPS on the front of the hat was now to be replaced with the new small size arrowhead, (1-1/2" x 2") although the earlier style continued to be worn for some time by those that had purchased them prior to the change. Two fabric-covered hatpins were also specified. In addition, the hat was not required to be worn by uniformed receptionist-typist and receptionist-secretaries or anyone doing desk work.

A new "Airline hostess type" jacket was specified. This new jacket was made out of the same materials as before, but now it was "semi-form fitting with three buttons equally spaced 3" apart, lowest button at smallest part of waist." It was to have a natural shoulder line (no padding) with a "shawl collar 1-3/4" to 2" wide at nape of neck tapering to top button. Length of jacket to be 5" below natural waistline, all the way around skirt of jacket."

A new feature of this jacket was a hidden inside pocket 4" wide by 3" deep, positioned 2" below the top button hole on the right side seam of jacket. Because of the variations in temperature and other conditions and activities, uniformity of wearing or doffing the jacket was to be maintained locally. The standard size (3-3/4") arrowhead patch was to be worn on the left sleeve as before, plus an "Embroidered name tag" was to be placed on the right side of jacket to the side of lapel. The sketch that came with the amendment specifies "Embroidered or plastic name tag." There is no evidence that an embroidered nametag was ever made. (see: Book No.1 - Badges and Insignia)

The "Airline hostess type" skirt was also changed. Even though it is still specified as "Delta Uniform #A-703 or equal", it is constructed entirely different, unless of course, Delta changed their design also. It was now to be "straight, no flair, three gores—single gore front and two gores in back. Back of skirt has double inverted 8" pleat, proportioned to size, set into back center seam with diamond tack of matching silk thread;...Waistband to be 1-1/4" wide...double button and buttonhole adjustment."

Mary B. Weatherwax, Roosevelt Vanderbilt, 1961. As this photograph testifies, not all women ran out and purchased the new uniform as soon as it came out. Even so, they were supposed to have switched over by January 1, 1961. NPSHPC - HFC#96 - 1331

Beatrice Lunt, Colonial National Historical Park. Lunt is wearing the Model 1962 stewardess uniform with the plastic nametag and Arrowhead pin ("in lieu of badge"). The "regs" called for the USNPS to be worn on the blouse collar, if worn outside, but she has hers on her coat lapels. NPSHPC - HFC#96-1332

Buttons to be of matching color or its equal. Zipper placket 7" long on left side of skirt. Skirt to be at least 1-1/2" to 2" below the knee. Pocket-slash type, self piped, opening 3-3/4" wide with diamond tack of matching silk thread at either end of opening." Pocket was on the right side of skirt with opening on a slant, 1-3/4" from waistband in front to 4" from waistband at rear.

Skirt had five belt loops, three vertical (1 rear, 2 front) and two "keystone" shaped ones at the sides. (one behind the zipper placket on left side and other one at matching location on right side).

Illustration from the 1962 National Park Service Uniform Handbook showing the second "Airline Stewardess" uniform. Chapter 2, page 32 National Park Service Archives/HFC RG Y55

Illustration from the 1962 National Park Service Uniform Handbook showing skirt used with the 1962 Women's uniform. Chapter 2, page 33. National Park Service Archives/HFC RG Y55

Belt and buckle were to be covered in the same fabric as uniform. Although not specified in the regulations, existing examples in the National Park Service History Collection show that they were to be 1-inch wide.

The new uniforms were to be made from the same materials as before with the addition, as in the case of the men's, of a new "Medium weight" uniform of 13 or 14-oz. all wool gabardine, which could be optionally authorized, subject to regional director's approval upon request of superintendents.

Louise Linen, Great Smoky Mountains National Park. This image shows clearly the ornamentation to be worn on the blouse. Her badge appears to be lying flat on her blouse. Maybe she is also utilizing Mary Bradford's method of securing it. NPSHPC - HFC#96-1329

The blouse was to be made out of any suitable plain white material without any decoration. Blouse could have either long or short sleeves. Collar was to be the same size as on the jacket and could be worn either under or over jacket collar. However, uniformity and consistency were to be maintained as to position of collar and sleeve length by the uniformed women at any locale. The reduced size (2-1/2") embroidered arrowhead patch and the nametag were to be worn on the blouse like the jacket.

Accessories came in for their share of change, as well. Plain gloves of either dark brown leather or white cotton could be worn. Handbag could be either dark brown leather or reptile. Shoes could still be dark brown or reptile skin, but now they were to be pumps with a 1-1/2" to 2" heel. A low heel dark brown leather walking shoe was to be worn on trails and nature walks. Glove, handbag and shoes were to match.

A variety of foul-weather gear was authorized. A new Balmacaan-style [14] topcoat of tan weatherproof poplin was authorized for women. It was to have raglan sleeves and a fly front with hidden buttons, and a zip-in removable lining. The large arrow head patch was optionally authorized to be worn on the left sleeve. The men's stormcoat, with alterations, could also be used by women as a topcoat. A plain white scarf of any fabric could be worn under the top coat at the throat.

In addition to the men' s raincoat, a loose filling, clear or opaque plastic raincoat with a detachable hood was authorized for women. A scarf of matching material could also be worn over the hat. Galoshes or calf-length pull-up boots could be worn as overshoes. Stadium boots (heavy boots with sheep's wool lining worn without other shoes) were also specified. All of the above footwear were to be either plain black or dark brown. Clear plastic "Raindear" (sic) boots were also acceptable.

Because of the lack of prescribed fatigue, work, or casual clothing for use by the women, it was necessary for them to select "proper and conservative" attire for duty other than that requiring wearing of the uniform.

Up until July 1, 1965, women rangers had been paid the same ($100.00 initial and $100.00 yearly replacement) uniform allowance that men received. That year the allowance was increased to $125.00/$125.00 for men and $125.00/$100.00 for women. This discrepancy was no doubt due to the women's uniform ensemble being less expensive than the men's, but the frequent uniform changes were not taken into account. There were a number of variables (no coat, etc.) that would reduce the allowance. The above is for an employee required to have the entire Class 'A' kit. It wasn't until July 21, 1966 that this was increased to $125.00, bringing it up to par with the men. [15]

Janet K. Seapker - NCFA/WHHO, 1967. This excellent view of the 1962 uniform shows that the cap did not always "mess-up" the women's hairdos. Seapker is wearing the "National Park Service" (Model 1960C-All uniformed personnel, except superintendents and rangers) badge. NPSHPC - Jack Rottier photo - HFC#-NCR/WASO9997-F

The 1962 uniform charge had done nothing for the image of women in the Service. "Early orthopedic" and "old maid dowdy" are two of the appellations applied to this uniform by personnel in the field. It was not only unattractive, but often a "source of professional frustration" to the women wearing it.

Originally designed for airline stewardesses, for whose limited activities it served well, the uniform proved totally inadequate for the varied functions and duties of the women in the Service. This was one of the main issues Director George B. Hartzog directed the 1968 Uniform Committee, chaired by Midwest Regional Director Fred C. Fagergren, to address.

Robert Gibbs, chief of Park Operations, and a member of the Committee, was assigned the task of implementing the directive. He, in turn, asked Carole Scanlon, an interpreter from Independence National Historical Park, to sit on the committee and represent the women in the field. It is not clear at this juncture, whether Carole was invited to join the committee, before or after, the issuance of the 1969 uniform regulations. From the subsequent changes, it would appear to be the latter.

The new uniform regulations, to become effective January 1, 1971, were drawn up and distributed to the field under Director's cover letter, dated July 2, 1969. These contain a written description, as well as crude sketches for new uniforms. The sketches appear to have been cut out of a catalogue and then outlined with pencil, or ink, in order to make them stand out, when copied.

Color was not specified, saying only that "all to be of standard basic color". It can be assumed that this refers to the "green, loden green" listed under "Basic colors" elsewhere in the general uniform regulations. A "Proper green-colored dress", for work and an optional "standard green-colored" sweater, along with white blouse and cloth accessories, are the only colors specifically listed.

E. Elaine (Russell) Clark, Park Guide, Andrew Johnson National Monument, 1963. Like the example shown earlier, Clark updated her 1961 pattern hat by applying a small arrowhead patch, but she is apparently wearing the 1962 pattern skirt. NPSHPC - HFC#63-3164

House where Lincoln died, 1967. This is part of Ford's Theater National Historic Site. Miss Rolle is shown wearing a 1962 pattern uniform. These uniforms were ideally suited for urban sites such as this. NPSHPC - M. Woodbridge Williams photo - HFC/NPS-543-1-7

The regulations specified that the women's uniform was to consist of the following:

1962 pattern (stewardess style) woman's uniform. Also shown is a variant style hat with pin stripes made by Mae Hanauer of New York. NPSHPC - HFC

Marie K. Absalon gives Joan Riley her "Golden Eagle" Pass at Morristown National Historical Park, 1966. Absalon is wearing the 1961 pattern uniform with the 1962 hat. Most women, who had purchased the new uniform in 1960, when first authorized, continued to wear them, as long as they were serviceable, even after the 1962 pattern came out. The two uniforms were compatible since both were made from the same material. Only the cap insignia needed to be changed. NPSHPC - Jack E. Boucher photo - HFC#96-1335

Even though mini-skirts were in vogue, the hem of the dress and skirt were not to exceed 2 inches above the knee. When prescribed by the superintendent, depending on duty, any of the above could be worn in the field, except for the dress, including the substitution of culottes or slacks of the same material, for the skirt.

A "Proper green-colored dress or jumper" was also prescribed for work (apparently dirty work), along with a number of optional items.

All-weather coat - (hat to match) Balmacca features Ze Pel treated for water with or without zipper acrylic pile liner.

Sweater - standard green-colored, long sleeved cardigan style wool or nylon.

Gloves - white if cloth, cordovan if leather or plastic.

Purse (or handbag) - white if cloth, cordovan if leather or plastic.

All of the above refer you to the illustrations in back of the uniform regulations. It can be assumed that the uniform committees original idea was to have everyone in the Service dressed in the standard forest green. Even the swim suits and terrycloth beach robe are specified to be this color. (See Appendix A)

Carole Scanlon, c.1960s. Scanlon, an interpreter at Independence National Historical Park, was asked to represent the women in the field on the uniform committee. NPSHPC/HFC#96-1337

However, when Scanlon came on board, either she, or someone else, decided to try something different. Apparently, the women's uniform portion of the regulations was to be held in abeyance until she could sort out the details, since no articles of clothing that correspond to the sketches have been found, in either photographs or artifacts.

Her duties were to assist in the coordination of determining the needs of the women; selecting a designer, as well as a practical design; and locating a manufacturer willing to produce such a relatively small quantity within the limited uniform allowances. All this, in addition to outfitting the many women stationed in parks throughout the country.

Scanlon began seeking technical assistance and ideas by conferring with the Philadelphia Textile Institute, Moore Institute of Art, Defense Supply and Support Center, and other organizations, either having or dealing with women in uniform.

Her first impulse was to hire a "name" designer, but the Service needed more than just a design. They had to have "complete coordination" of all facets for the "front line staff'. Someone interested in function, as well as fashion, who would heed the unique requirements of field personnel.

This individual was discovered in the person of Mary Joan Glynn, a vice president of Doyle Dane Bernbach, one of the Nations largest advertising firms. As head of "product styling", Glynn had introduced the knit dress, as a uniform, in the early sixties, revolutionizing the dress of airline stewardesses. Assisting her was Irene Beckman, a product development associate and head of fashion styling at the same company. Both women believed that fashion is a reflection of living. [16]

The question now was, what will satisfy the 250 permanent and innumerable seasonal women? The answer was simple. Just ask them. The age-old system of requesting input from the field in regard to uniform changes was put into operation. Scanlon took Beckman on a whirlwind tour of the Park System, and through the medium of letters, phone calls and meetings, the wishes and requirements of women in the field began to slowly emerge.

Experimental Hat, 1969. This sand-colored "stewardess" style hat was part of an experimental woman's uniform worn by Betty Otto in 1969 at Antietam National Battlefield. It now resides in the NPS History Collection at Harpers Ferry Center. NPSHC/HFC#6-1338

Probably the highlight of the tours was a large, intense "think tank", conducted at National Capital Parks in Washington, D.C. Here, women of all sizes and backgrounds, gathered for a four-hour discussion of the uniform problems of the Service.

Many things were brought to light by these exchanges. Things like:

"The fitted jacket isn't functional or comfortable. It should move easily but look smart, particularly in the city."... "We participate in many ceremonial functions here with the military. They always wear their dress uniforms and we look pretty drab in comparison."

"We climb hills and mountains and rocks. It's rugged. We tried bermuda shorts with knee socks, but they didn't protect us from poison ivy, stinging nettles or brambles in meadows. We need something more functional. Loose slacks are fine and levis are great."

Another wanted a suitable uniform for escorting VIP's around town, as well as flat shoes for summer wear.

The feeling was pretty unanimous in the dislike of the present hat. All thought it was "unattractive, dated, and a threat to their hairdos."

Several Members of a recent "think tank" discuss Park women's uniforms. Part of the group of people that discussed the uniform needs and desires of the women in the Park Service. Left to Right: Betty Gentry, Susan Hepler, Mary Dodd, Irene Beckman (Doyle Dane Bernbach, Inc.), Al Fields, Carole Scanlon. NPSHPC - W.H. Spradley photo - HFC#96-1336

After all the discussions, interviews and general orientation to the needs of the women in the parks were completed, the momentous task of trying to satisfy these needs, within the scope of a budgetary constraint and a minimum number of uniforms, began to emerge. Undaunted, Glynn and Beckman began their work of designing a new image for the women of the National Park Service.

On February 25, 1970, they presented their new design sketches, fabric colors, along with swatches, to the uniform committee, who enthusiastically endorsed them. [17]

The initial concept for the new uniforms, as it appeared in the NPS Newsletter. These designs, with slight alterations, became the foundation for the new women's uniforms. National Park Service Archives/HFC RG Y55

As Joan Glynn explained to Loretta DeLozier, associate editor, for an article in the NPS Newsletter,

"In choosing the color identification, for example, she went to the roots of our natural heritage-to the colors of earth, sand and sun. The ingredients are a warm deep beige (the predominate color of most of the outfits); a clear, fresh white (used mostly for trim); and a sunny, golden orange (an accent color). Already existing in our identification symbols, these colors can serve to help unify the many elements in the natural, historical and recreational groupings within the Park Service.

"To maintain this unity of design, simple, clean lines were used—and are echoed in each of the items for easy coordination. Thus the jacket and hat may be worn not only with the dress, but also with the matching culottes and slacks. The beige coat has a zip-out lining in bright orange, which will accent the colors of the scarf.

"The outfit for supportive personnel is in the same beige color and in a similar design, but loose enough to fit several sizes. Park wives will have their own special short popover in sun-orange to wear over regular clothes while performing special duties or acting as hostesses. Chairwomen will don a comfortable cover-up in orange and white or beige and white crinkle cotton." [18]

Carole Scanlon and Betty Gentry display the new uniform in contrast with the old at the Director's private "fashion show" in Washington, DC, March 20, 1970. NPSHPC - Cecil W Stoughton Photo - HFC#70-78-26

Included were guidelines for shoes, boots, gloves, jewelry, etc., as well as heavy duty pants in wheat or brown denim; knit work tops; camel beige cardigan in washable acrylic; quilted beige long line hooded parka; butternut-beige maillot (one-piece) swimsuit with terry jacket; and a specially designed scarf with the Park Service insignia that could also be used as a gift item.

Sample garments were produced and a private "fashion show" was held for Director Hartzog and the committee on March 20, 1970, in which Carole Scanlon modeled the various uniforms and combinations. [19] The Director was so impressed, he gave his immediate approval.

The Director's private "fashion show"
March 20, 1970

Director Hartzog was so impressed by the new fashions, he gave it his immediate approval. Left to Right: Mary Joan Glynn (Doyle Dane Bernbach, Inc.), Director George Benjamin Hartzog, Carole Scanlon. NPSHPC/HFC#96-1341

The women share a joke. Could it be the hat? Left to Right: Betty Gentry, Irene Beckman, Mary Joan Glynn, Carole Scanlon. NPSHPC/HFC#96-1343

Mary Joan Glynn introduces and Carole Scanlon models the new women's uniforms for the Director and Uniform Committee. Left to Right: Mary Joan Glynn, Betty Gentry, ?, ?, ?, Robert F. Gibbs, Carole Scanlon, Al Fields. NPSHPC/HFC#96-1342

Carole Scanlon models the many combinations of the new uniform. All photographs - NPSHPC/HFC#70-78

The Grand Public Unveiling of the "new look" for National Park Service women took place in the Rose Garden of Independence National Historical Park in Philadelphia during Freedom Week, 1970. June 27th started out as a dark cloudy day with the threat of rain looming over the festivities. It is rumored that Director Hartzog took one look at the sky and in his booming authoritative voice stated that "It will not rain", and everyone knew it wouldn't dare, at least those in the Park Service did. And sure enough, as the morning progressed, the clouds began to break up and by time the show began, the weather was sunny with a cool breeze blowing.

Director Hartzog clowning around with new women's uniforms at Grand Unveiling at Independence National Historical Park, June 27, 1970. Left to Right: Lemuel "Lon" Garrison, Mid Atlantic Regional Director; (?); George B. Hartzog, Director, National Park Service; Inger Garrison; Frank F Kowski, Southwest Regional Director; Carole Scanlon. NPSHPC - Cecil W Stoughton photo - HFC#70-273-12

Irene Beckman makes last minute adjustments to the Chairwoman's smock. Left to Right: Irene Beckman, Carole Scanlon. NPSHPC - Cecil W Stoughton photo - HFC#70-78-16

Several hundred people were on hand for the occasion. Regional directors, Park superintendents and the Independent Park Advisory Board were joined by the Junior League of Philadelphia and many Park employees, some of which had traveled hundreds of miles for this momentous event. Even a few tourists wandered in occasionally out of curiosity.

In all, seven different uniforms were modeled by Service wives and employees. After the formal presentation most of the people repaired to a tent set up with refreshments, while the models posed for the various photographers. There was even a film crew commissioned by Polaroid to cover the show for a special film on the National Park Service.

"The Grand Public Unveiling"
Freedom Week, June 27, 1970

Park Service wives and employees model the new women's uniforms. Left to Right: Marion Riggs, Carole Scanlon, Louise Boggs, Inger Garrison (wife of Regional Director Lon Garrison), Ellen Lang, Elaine Hounsell, Helen Hartzog (wife of Director George Hartzog). NPSHPC - Cecil W. Stoughton photo - HFC#70-253-53
Mrs. Hartzog, in her "Park wives, Pop-on", joins some of the guests at the refreshment tent. NPSHPC - Cecil W. Stoughton photo - HFC#70-253-1	Mary Rinehart and Carole Scanlon display the "Old" versus the "New" Park Service look. NPSHPC - Cecil W. Stoughton photo - HFC#70-273-106
This informal view shows the back of most of the uniforms, especially that of Helen Hartzog's "Park wives Pop-on". Left to Right: Louise Boggs, Elaine Hounsell, Marion Riggs, Inger Garrison, Helen Hartzog, Lemuel A. Garrison. NPSHPC - Cecil W. Stoughton photo - HFC#70-253-41
Director Hartzog shows off the new women's scarf. NPSHPC - Cecil W. Stoughton photo - HFC#70-253-9
The wind assists Marion Riggs in displaying the styling of the culottes. NPSHPC - Cecil W. Stoughton photo - HFC#70-259-94	Many "art-sy" photographs, such as this one of Carole Scanlong, were taken to show off the new uniforms. NPSHPC - Cecil W. Stoughton photo - HFC#70-273-44

After the show was over, the new uniforms were packed up and Marion Riggs was selected to take the show on the road. On her way to introduce the line at the Southwest Regional Office in Santa Fe, New Mexico, she detoured to give President and "Ladybird" Johnson a private showing at their ranch near Johnson City, Texas. Riggs states that it was one of the strangest experiences of her life. She made the trip by herself and upon arriving at the airport, discovered there was no one to meet her.

So, she rented a car and after acquiring directions, headed out to the ranch. Arriving at the gate-house, she explained that she was there to show the new Park Service uniforms to the President and was surprised when the guard didn't ask for any identification, but simply instructed her to go down this little dirt road to one of the guesthouses, probably the Cedar Cottage, where she met the "First Couple".

Using an adjoining room to change, she modeled each of the new uniforms, during which time no one spoke. When the last uniform had been presented, President Johnson gave no indication as to whether he liked or disliked the new appearance of Park Service women, but simply said "Thank you" and inquired as to what the other women in the Park Service thought of the new uniforms. Although Riggs, as well as many other women didn't care for them, she very diplomatically told him that they were well received. The whole affair was very casual.

Riggs had arrived in civilian attire, but it had taken so long to complete the show that she was forced to wear the last uniform modeled in order to get back to the airport in time to make her flight. Even though the President hadn't shown much interest in the new uniforms, she was bombarded with questions from people in the airport as to what department or agency she worked for. No doubt the standard straw ranger hat and Park Service insignia on a uniform totally foreign to anything they had ever seen sparked this inquisitiveness.

The 1970 uniform regulations pertaining to women brought forth a plethora of uniforms. Not only did the female rangers now have their own distinctive dress for formal occasions, but for the first time there was a whole range of other clothing for their different functions. NPSART - Gilbert B. Cohen, artist - HFC/ARM#GR-0002- 8 thru 10

If the President didn't approve of the new look, it couldn't have been too strenuous since these regulations remained in effect for the next five years. Photographers were not allowed, hence there are no images of this historic occasion.

Optional woman's Centennial dress, 1972. Although not covered in the official correspondence, this uniform was instituted on March 20, 1972, for the Centennial of the Nation's parks. It served as a companion piece for the men's optional urban dress. There are several photographs showing women wearing this dress. It appears to match the scarf which would make it off-white with orange polka-dots. NPSHPC/HFC#96-1334

It didn't take the women of the Park Service long to realize that the new uniforms were more fluff than substance. If anything they added to the woes of the women, not being as serviceable as those previously worn. The new uniforms were very stylish and chic, for duty in the offices and visitor centers, but in the field they were useless. They didn't hold up very well, and it wasn't long before all the enthusiasm of their introduction turned to ridicule. The public did not always realize that the women wearing these new uniforms were even in the Park Service. They still envisioned the ranger wearing forest green.

Not only were these new uniforms not suited for the field, under the right circumstances, they could be downright hazardous. Mary Bradford relates the story of being called out in an emergency, to help fight a brush fire. After the fire was out, she discovered that the heat had melted the hem on her dress.

In addition to the garments, the hat came in for its share of criticism. Even though it resembled the standard ranger hat, it was made of lightweight felt, like that used in women's hats. Because of this lack of body, it did not hold up under normal service and the women required to use a hat, immediately switched to that worn by the men, either felt or straw.

The question of the badge also resurfaced. Now more than ever, with the women wearing a uniform foreign to anything the public was used to, they felt in need of a badge for recognition and to illustrate their authority. However, the same old issue of the fabric of the uniform not being able to support the heavy badge confronted them.

In 1972, some of the Western parks, notably Mesa Verde and Nez Perce, attempted to remedy this situation by contracting with the V.H. Blackinton Company, of Attleboro Falls, Massachusetts, to have small, one-inch high, light-weight versions of the regulation badge made. This solved the weight problem, only to have a new one arise.

Instead of providing the desired credibility, the public thought the new badges were "cute", some even asking where they could be purchased, thinking they were souvenirs for children. Washington also frowned upon the issuance of the new badgettes and requested their recall. The short-lived experiment ended with the badges being turned in and removed from park property books.

With 1972 being the Centennial year for the national parks [20], a new optional uniform was authorized on March 10, by Director George B. Hartzog for those employees of the Washington and Regional Offices, as well as those in the Service Centers who frequently represented the Service in external affairs, events and meetings. It was also to be used by Park employees in interpretation, administration or other positions which involved frequent contact with the public. [21]

Publicity photograph showing new "Urban" men's uniform as well as the women's 1970 uniform dress and new "Centennial" dress, 1972. Picture was taken in front of Main Interior Building. Left to right: Frances Reynolds (Director Hartzog's secretary); Associate Deputy Director Joseph C. Rumberg; Carole Scanlon; Procurement Analyst Ray O'Dell. NPSHPC - HFC#98-1

An article in the July 10, 1972 NPS Newsletter goes into great detail as to the color of each article of the new men's uniform, but fails to mention anything about the woman's attire other than it was called the "optional women's Centennial dress." From photographs showing women wearing this dress, the colors appear to match those of the standard scarf. If this is the case, then the dress would be white with orange polka dots.

Marsha Wood, 1975. Wood is modeling the new Class B (pants suit) uniform. NPSHPC - Dan Hughes photo - HFC#1777-1-7

In the summer of 1973, realizing the impracticability of the "A line" uniforms for performing even routine ranger duties, several of the women seasonals, Marilyn Hof and Lyndel Meikle among them, at Yosemite National Park, ordered "men's" uniforms from Alvord & Ferguson's in Merced, California. Meikle thought that a green ascot would look better than a tie on the ladies, an idea that didn't command too many followers. Lynn H. Thompson, then superintendent at Yosemite, photographed the two women in their new uniforms and forwarded the pictures to Washington.

In the meantime two of the summer seasonals who were offered winter employment at Everglades National Park because of their good work record, tendered their resignations out of concern that they would not be issued badges and would be required to wear the women's dress uniform. This incident, along with the Yosemite photographs and no doubt other complaints, prompted the Service to consider revising the uniform regulations covering women. [22]

This change occurred the following year. Unrealized at the time, though, an extremely important battle for equal rights had just been won.

1974 women's Class 'A' uniform, with and without jacket. NPSHPC - HFC#98-2 (left) and NPSHPC - HF#98-5 (right)

The 1974 uniform regulations brought forth the fourth uniform change for women in fourteen years, negating their clothing allowance "catch-up" factor. However, along with the "MacDonalds" uniform was one that harbingered things to come. One based on the men's style of uniform. NPSART - Gilbert B. Cohen, artist - HFC/ARM#GR-0002- 11 thru 14

Showing off the new polyester uniforms, 1975. Left to right: Front - Roselyn Grey, Marsha Wood Rear: - Cheryl Kiatta, Linda Balatti. NPSHPC - Dan Hughes photo - HFC#75-1777-1-35

Linda Balatti, 1975. Balatti is wearing the 1974 pattern Class A uniform with cardigan jacket. NPSHPC - Clare C. Ralston photo - HFC#75-2097-21

1974 saw the uniform change once again, although not entirely as the women had desired. The new uniform was to still be the "A line" style of double-knit polyester, although now it was to be dark green. Some women quickly christened it the "McDonald's" uniform because it reminded them of those worn by fast food workers.

In the new NPS uniform regulations, the dress uniform was to consist of dark green dress and cardigan jacket; brown pumps and bag; Neutral hose and a white scarf with NPS arrowhead motif. The gold nametag with the rounded edges that was introduced in 1970 was retained and a small arrowhead patch was worn where the badge normally went. Dress options consisted of white or matching green sweater, raincoat, dress coat and straw or felt Stetson hat. This ensemble was to be used for formal occasions, in or out of the park and whenever in contact with the public, such as at information desks, in visitor centers, or on speaking engagements.

A second uniform, classified as the "Basic pant-suit" was authorized as alternate wear in all of the same circumstances, with the exception of formal occasions. It consisted of the same articles except tunic and pants replaced the dress. The options were the same, except now the scarf was also optional.

Undoubtedly to placate some of the dissatisfied women in the field, a third uniform was added. It was classified as the "Women's Traditional Uniform". This was in essence the standard men's uniform, with a couple of exceptions. An ascot replaced the tie, which was optional, a black turtleneck could be worn in cool weather and coats were not required but fell under the optional category. Those women that did opt to wear the coat, wore a short jacket they termed an "Ike" jacket, although it was cut on a different pattern than the true Second World War variety. It had a round collar similar to that on the 1962 Airline Stewardess uniform, only smaller, a zipper front and no pockets.

Other options were forest green skirt, parka and raincoat. It would seem that this uniform was an alternate for the pantsuit since the regulations specify that it was for those "employees whose primary duties on a day-to-day basis require direct contact with the park visitors". All three uniforms were to be worn as prescribed by the park superintendent.

In some of the parks, however, notably Yosemite, women had already started wearing this uniform the year before, but it took William Henderson, acting director, Southeast Region, to start the equality ball rolling. He suggested to Washington that women, when working with their male counterpart and performing equivalent work, should be allowed to wear the traditional uniform.

Upon reviewing the situation, John Cook, at that time in charge of park operations in Washington, went one step further and directed there be only one uniform for both men and women. He also recommended the Uniform Regulations include a skirt for those women that preferred it.

In 1977 the Service decided to officially change the women's uniform to conform more closely to the men's. As a result women uniformed personnel were cautioned about ordering new uniform parts due to the impending change. This also effected their only authorized outerwear, the Lady Danton raincoat made by London Fog. Due to the impending lack of future orders, it went out of production. This forced women in need of coats to try to either secure something similar, which resulted in various shades of tans, or to wear their personal coats creating an even wider range of hues.

With this change, employees who were required to have both Class A (traditional dress) and Class B (work) uniforms, began receiving $400.00/$200.00 uniform allowances. [23]

Marjoie M. "Mike" Hackett, superintendent, Fort Point National Historic Site, 1976. Hackett is wearing what some people consider the most attractive uniform designed for women in the Park Service, the "Woman's Traditional Uniform" authorized in 1974. She also has on the short jacket, sans pockets which appears to have been the standard coat for women. This jacket is often called the "Ike Jacket", attributed to General, later President Eisenhower, but that jacket has large breast pockets and didn't come into being until later. She is also wearing the black turtleneck in lieu of a tie. NPSHPC/HFC#76-80-3

The young ranger shown here at Padre Island National Seashore in 1978, is assuring this little endangered Ridley turtle hatchling a safe passage, at least on the first leg of it's long journey. Along with her shorts and cap, she is wearing all the insignia identifying her Park Service affiliation. NPSHPC - Fred E. Mang, Jr. photo - HFC#78-465-6-15

Although written in October of 1977, it wasn't until the Spring of 1978 that the long awaited uniform regulation change came through, authorizing the women to wear the same gray and green, in all of its configurations, as their male counterparts. The only differences were that the women were to wear a cross tie style tie instead of the four-in-hand, and they had the option of wearing a skirt, but most preferred the trousers. Along with this, for the first time, they were authorized to wear the complete assortment of special duty clothing. Field, maintenance, Alpine ski, etc., in essence everything available to the men.

Golden Gate National Recreation Area, California. Park Ranger Margaret Brooks with group of children, 1981. Brooks is wearing the women's cross tie. NPSHPC - Richard Frear photo - HFC#8123570231

The changeover was anticipated to be completed by early summer. But alas, it was not to be. Supply problems plagued their efforts from the beginning, resulting in it being late fall before all of the women could be outfitted with the basics. Even then there was no dress blouse or winter parka and the raincoat wasn't available until the following Spring.

In addition, the $125.00 annual uniform allowance was established on a prorated basis to cover the ranger's uniform requirements over a period of years. But with this being the fourth total uniform change for the women rangers in fourteen years, the catch up factor had not been realized. With the allowance being insufficient to cover the cost of the new uniform, along with their low pay, a serious financial hardship was imposed on most of the women. [24]

Fashion World Career Apparel, Inc. had the contract to furnish women's uniforms, but their inability to supply the needed garments acerbated the problem. The Service also contributed to the bugbear by authorizing clothing for the male rangers from companies that did not have equivalent styles and sizes for women and in general taking, what the women felt was a rather cavalier attitude toward remedying their uniform difficulties. [25]

The 1980s brought the women into the mainstream of the National Park Service by furnishing them all the various uniforms needed to accomplish their mission. Plus a couple of extras not authorized for men. Notably, skirts and maternity clothing. NPSART - Gilbert B. Cohen, artist -HFC/ARM#GR-0002-15 thru 19

Consequently, in the fall of 1979, discussions began between the Federal Women's Coordinator at Independence National Historical Park and the Director's office in an attempt to reconcile the women's uniform difficulties. The lack of progress at these meetings, at least in the minds of the women, culminated in a class action suit being filed against the National Park Service on December 21, 1979.

However, through intense discussions over the next couple of months these differences were resolved and the suit was withdrawn on February 23, 1980. [26]

Dawn Baumstark, Fort Sumter National Monument, 22 May, 1995. Baumstark is wearing a new maternity "Jumper" and shirt. This is just one of the several styles of new maternity uniforms available to women now. NPSHPC - R. Bryce Workman photo - HFC#98-7

One of the things the women requested was a regulation maternity uniform. In the past, when these were ordered, they usually received a makeshift arrangement such as an extra large man's shirt and a pair of trousers with a stretch panel replacing the fly. Now, instead of looking like they were wearing their father's cast-off clothing, they had an attractive piece of wearing apparel that still denoted them as a ranger.

This crusade not only brought the women rangers parity with their male counterparts, but also had a direct effect on the Class A uniform coat worn by men. Up until now, the Service had dealt with two uniform suppliers. The one for men supplied traditional men's style uniforms, while the other furnished the more stylish garments for women, neither of which carried clothing for the other.

In 1980, R&R Uniforms was awarded the contract to furnish uniforms to both men and women in the National Park Service. The first item of business was to reconcile the size and cut of the various articles of clothing to fit the women. This didn't create a problem until it came to the dress coat. It wasn't thought that the large pleated pockets presented an appropriate appearance, especially on the more endowed women. Consequently, the coat was eliminated from the 1981 catalog while the company strived to create a style of coat that would look good on both sexes, while carrying on the traditional image.

This was resolved by removing both upper and lower patch pockets from the coat and substituting fake pockets consisting of only a pocket flap and button. The coat became available again the following year. This is the coat used today.

Women now had at their disposal all the same uniforms, and accessories as their male counterparts, in all its variations, as well as a couple of items denied the men, namely skirts and maternity uniforms.

As this sampling of uniforms from a R & R Uniform catalog of the 1980s shows, women could now fill their closet with uniforms to cover all occasions, just like the men. 1. Coat and trousers Class "A" dress uniform. 2. Parka for Class "A" uniform. 3. Cardigan sweater. 4. Reversible raincoat (Forest Green on one side, International Orange on reverse). 5. Maternity top and slacks. 6. Long sleeved shirt with skirt. 7. Twill work jacket and cap.