The Clearwater Story: A History of the Clearwater National Forest

In this chapter and the one that follows I will trace the westward and eastward journies of Lewis and Clark across the Clearwater National Forest. In doing so, I will quote Thwaite's journal. I will add my comments either in parenthesis or after each day's journey. Dotted lines will designate omissions from the journal, and to make easier reading I will use modern spelling.

Starting at Lolo Hot Springs on Highway 12 in Montana.

Sept. 13 (1805 Clark) ".....We proceeded over a mountain and at a place 6 miles from where I nooned it, (on Lolo Creek) we fell on a small creek (Pack) from the left, which passed through open glades, (Packer Meadows) some of which were one half mile wide.

"We proceeded down this creek about two miles to where the mountains close on either side and encamped. I shot four pheasants of the common kind except the tail was black. Shields killed a blacktail deer."

Comment: The party is now in Idaho and camped at the lower end of Packer Meadows. The pheasants were Franklin Grouse or foolhens. The deer was a mule deer.

Sept. 14 (1805 Whitehouse).

"A cloudy morning. We eat the last of our meat." (Clark) "We crossed a high mountain on the right of the creek for six miles to the forks of the Glade Creek, the right hand fork which falls in is about the size of the other. We crossed to the left side of the forks and cross a very high mountain for nine miles to a large fork from the left which appears to head in the snow topped mountains south and S.E."

"We cross Glade Creek above the mouth at a place where the Flathead Indians have made a weir to catch salmon and have but lately left the place. I could see no fish and the grass entirely eaten out by the horses, we proceed on two miles and encamped opposite a small island at the mouth of a small branch on the right side of the river, which is at this place 80 yards wide, swift and stoney."

"Here we were compelled to kill a colt for our men and selves to eat for want of meat, and we named the south fork Colt Killed Creek (White Sand) and this we call the Koos Koos Ke. Turned our horses on the island."

"Rained, snowed, and hailed the greater part of the day. All wet and cold."

Comment: The party left Packer Meadows and went over the ridge between Crooked Fork and Pack Creek to where Brushy Creek joins Crooked Fork Creek. They then crossed Brushy Creek and went over the ridge between Crooked Creek and Cabin Creek to where White Sand and Crooked Fork Creek join to make the Lochsa River, they crossed to the north bank of the Lochsa and after traveling two miles camped at the present site of the Powell Ranger Station.

The island is now so heavily timbered that it would not furnish grass enough for one horse. The Powell camp is well marked.

Northern Pacific survey pack train crossing Packer Meadows in 1909. Lewis and Clark arrived here Sept. 13, 1805. They camped at the lower end of the meadows.

1938 photo at Powell Ranger Station, sites of the Lewis and Clark Expedition's Sept. 14, 1805 camp.

Sept. 15 (1805 Clark) "We set out early, the morning cloudy, and proceeded on down the right side of the river, over steep points, rocky and brushy as usual, for four miles to an old Indian fishing place. Here the road leaves the river to the left and ascends a mountain, winding in every direction to get up the steep ascents and to pass the immense quantity of fallen timber which has fallen from different causes, i.e. fire and wind, and has deprived the greater part of the south sides of this mountain of its timber. Four miles up the mountain I found a spring and halted for the rear to come up and let our horses rest and feed. In about two hours the rear of the party came up, much fatigued, and horses more so. Several horses slipped and rolled down the steep hills, which hurt them very much. The one which carried my desk and small trunk turned over and rolled down a mountain for 40 yards and lodged against a tree, broke the desk. The horse escaped and appeared but little hurt. From this point I observed a range of mountains covered with snow from S.E. to S.W., with their tops bald or devoid of timber. After two hours of delay, we proceeded on up the mountain. When we arrived at the top, we conceived we would find no water and concluded to camp and make use of snow we found on top to cook the remains of our colt and make soup. Two of our horses gave out, poor and too much hurt to proceed, and left in the rear. Nothing killed today except two pheasants" (ruffed grouse).

Comment: The party went down the north bank of the Lochsa to the ridge between Wendover and Cold Storage Creeks. The fishing place was just above the mouth of Wendover Creek. I found Indian artifacts there, proving that this was an old Indian campground.

Whitehouse mentions passing a pond. This pond is now called Whitehouse pond, as is the campground across Highway 12. (The author suggested this name for the pond.)

The party went up Wendover Ridge, which was burned at that time but now has a beautiful stand of mature timber, and camped on top of an unnamed mountain. The Forest Service has a sign marking the place the old trail crosses the present Lolo Motorway.

The high snowy mountains were the Bitterroot Mountains south of Lolo pass.

Sept. 16 (1805 Clark)

"Began to snow about three hours before day and continued all day. The snow in the morning four inches deep on the old snow, and by night we find it six to eight inches deep. I walked in front to keep the road and found great difficulty in keeping it, as in many places the snow had entirely filled the track and obliged me to hunt several minutes for it. At 12 o'clock we halted on top of the mountain to warm and dry ourselves a little, as well as to let our horses rest and graze a little on some grass which I observed. The knobs, steep hillsides, and fallen timber continue today, and a thick, timbered country of eight different kinds of pine, which are so covered with snow that in passing through them we are continually covered with snow. I have never been wet and as cold in every part as I ever was in my life; indeed, I was at one time fearful my feet would freeze in the thin moccasins I wore. After a short delay in the middle of the day, I took one man and proceeded as fast as I could about six miles to a small branch crossing to the right, halted and built fires for the party that arrived at dusk, very cold and much fatigued. We camped on this branch in a small timbered bottom, which was scarcely large enough for us to lie level. Men all cold and hungry. Killed a second colt, which we all supped heartily on and thought it fine meat.

"I saw four deer today before we set out, which came up the mountain, and what is singular, snapped seven times at a large buck. My gun has a steel fuzee and never snapped seven times before. In examining it, found the flint loose."

Whitehouse says ".....We descended the mountain down to a lonesome cove on a creek, where we camped in a thicket of spruce, pine, and balsam fir timber." Whitehouse also says "Cap. Clark shot at a deer but missed it."

Comment: Hunting stories are often known to disagree but in either case it was a keen disappointment to the hungry party.

The place Lewis and Clark camped on Sept. 16 has been much disputed. It is my belief that they ate lunch at Spring Hill. The distance checks and there is an abundance of grass there.

The Lonesome Cove Camp is almost due north of the Indian Post Office rock cairns. The old trail, parts of which can be still found by careful searching, turned back or switch backed at the rock cairns and dropped off on the north side and came close to a small timbered flat with a small creek. This is where I believe they camped.

The eight species of the pine family Clark observed were likely alpine fir, grand fir, Englemen spruce, mountain hemlock, Douglas fir, western white pine and white barked pine.

View to the north from the divide which separates the Lochsa and North Fork of the Clearwater River drainages. The party travelled along this ridge Sept. 16 after having climbed out of the Lochsa River canyon the previous day.

The author standing by rock cairns at Indian Post Office. The Expedition camped near there the night of Sept. 16.

Indian Post Office Lake, immediately south of the rock cairns.

Sept. 17. 1805. Whitehouse: "Cold and cloudy. We went out to hunt our horses, but found them much scattered. The mare which owned the colt which we killed went back and led four more horses back to where we took dinner yesterday. The most of the other horses found scattered on the mountain, but we did not find all until noon, at which time we set out and proceeded on. The snow lay heavy on the timber. Passed along a rough road up and down the mountains. Descended down a steep part of the mountain. The afternoon clear and warm. The snow melted so that the water stood in the trail over our moccasins in some places. Very slippery, and bad traveling for our horses. We ascend very high and rocky mountains; some bald places on the top of the mountains, high rocks standing up and high precipices. Crossed several creeks or spring runs in the course of the day. Camped at a small branch on the mountain near a round sink hole full of water. We, being hungry, obliged us to kill the other sucking colt to eat. One of the hunters chased a bear, but killed nothing. We expect that there is game near; we hear wolves howl and saw some deer sign."

Clark states, "We camped at a run passing to the left."

Comment: The trail that Lewis and Clark followed did not stay on the main divide but dropped down into Moon Creek, crossed Howard Creek, and down to the forks of Gravey and Serpent Creeks, thence up the ridge between these creeks to the main divide. The eastern trip diaries are more descriptive of this route.

The party killed the last of their colts at this camp, and apparently Lewis and Clark got together on a plan of action that night, to decide what should be done about the emergency situation.

Sept. 18, 1805. Clark: "A fair cold morning. I proceeded on in advance with six hunters to try and find deer or something to kill and send back to the party. The want of provisions, together with the difficulty of passing the mountains, dampened the spirits of the party, which induced us to resort to some plan of reviving their spirits. I determined to take a party of the hunters and proceed on in advance to some level country where there was some game, kill some meat, and send it back."

"We passed over a country similar to the one of yesterday. More fallen timber. Passed several runs and springs passing to the right. From the top of a high mountain (Sherman Peak) at twenty miles, I had a view of an immense plain and level country to the S.W. and W. At a great distance a high mountain beyond the plain. Saw but little sign of deer and nothing else. Made 32 miles and encamped on a bold running creek passing to the left, which I call Hungery (sic) Creek, as at that place we had nothing to eat. I halted only one hour to let our horses feed on a grassy hillside and rest. Drewyer shot at a deer but didn't get it."

Comment: Clark is now in the lead with six men.

The high mountain from which Clark saw the extensive plain is Sherman Peak. The plain they saw was the open grass country extending northwest from Grangeville and is today called the Camas and Nez Perce prairies. The high mountain beyond was likely Cottonwood Butte.

Hungery Creek became Obia Creek, and so it appears on old maps. At my suggestion, its name has been changed back to Hungery Creek. Obia Creek is now a branch of Hungery Creek.

Sept. 18, 1805. Lewis: (Whitehouse and Gass were with Lewis.) "Clark set out this morning to go ahead with six hunters. There being no game in these mountains we concluded it would be better for one of us to take the hunters and provide some provisions, while the others remained with and brought up the party. The latter was my part."

"Accordingly, I directed the horses be gotten up early, being determined to force my march as much as the abilities of the horses would permit. The negligence of one of the party (Willard), who had a spare horse, in not attending to him and bringing him up last evening, was the cause of our detention this morning until 8:30 A.M., when we set out. I sent Willard back to search for his horse and proceeded on with the party. At 4 P.M. he overtook us without the horse."

"We marched 18 miles this day and camped on the side of a steep mountain. We suffered for water today, passing one rivulet only. We were fortunate in finding water in a deep ravine about one-half mile from camp."

"This morning we finished the last of our colt. We supped on a scant portion of portable soup, a few containers of which, a little bears oil, and about 20 pounds of candles, form our stock of provisions, our only resources being our guns and horses. This is but a poor dependence where there is nothing upon earth but ourselves, a few pheasants, small grey squirrels, and a blue bird of the vulture kind about the size of a turtle dove or jay bird. Used snow for cooking."

Comment: The water the party crossed was at Indian Grave. The old trail went above the water at Bald Mountain. The blue bird was a Steller's jay. Lewis' camp of Sept. 18 is about three miles west of Bald Mountain and is marked with a Forest Service sign.

Sept. 19, 1805. Clark: "Set out early. Proceeded up Hungery Creek, passing through a small glade at 6 miles, at which place we found a horse. I directed him killed and hung up for the party after taking breakfast off for ourselves, which we thought fine."

"After breakfast proceeded on up the creek two miles and left it to our right. Passed over a mountain and the head of a branch of Hungery Creek (Fish Creek), two high mountains, ridges and through much fallen timber (which caused our road of today to be double the direct distance of our course). Struck a large creek passing to our left which I kept down for four miles and left to our left and passed over a mountain, bad fallen timber, to a small creek passing to our left and encamped. I killed two pheasants (ruffed grouse) but few birds to be seen. As we descended the mountain the heat becomes more perceptible every mile."

Comment: The glade where the horse was killed is on Hungery Creek about one quarter of a mile from Windy Saddle. The party crossed to the head of Fish Creek then over the divide and down a ridge to Eldorado Creek, down Eldorado Creek two miles, over a ridge to Cedar Creek and camped.

The campground on Cedar Creek is marked by a Forest Service sign. There is also a splendid grove of large western red cedar there called the "Lewis and Clark Grove." (See Chapter 3)

The author stands at the site of the Expedition's Sept. 17 campsite "near a round sink hole full of water".

Interpretive sign at Lewis and Clark Grove, site of the Sept. 19 camp for Clark's advance party.

The Lolo Motorway near Saddle Camp. Person in photo is standing on the location of the Lolo Trail.

Sept. 19, 1805. Lewis: "Set out this morning a little after sunrise and continued our route about the same course as yesterday for six miles, when the ridge terminated and we, to our inexpressible joy, discovered a large tract of prairie country lying to the S.W. and widening as it appeared to extend to the west. Through that plain, the Indian (Toby, their Shoshone guide) informed us, the Columbia River of which we are in search runs. This plain appears to be about 60 miles distant (actually about 40), but our guide assured us we should reach its border by tomorrow. The appearance of this country, our only hope of subsistence, greatly revived the spirits of the party, already reduced and much weakened for want of food."

"After leaving the ridge, we ascended and descended several steep mountains, in the distance of six miles further struck a creek (Hungery) about 15 yards wide, our course along this creek upwards, passing two of its branches which flowed in from the north. First at the place we struck the creek (Doubt Creek) and the other three miles further. (Bowl Creek)

"The road excessively dangerous along this creek, being a narrow, rocky path generally on the side of a precipice. The course upward due west. We camped on the star side in a little ravine having traveled 18 miles. We took a small amount of portable soup and retired much fatigued. Several men are unwell of dysentary, breaking out or eruptions of the skin."

Comment: The mountain from which Lewis saw the plain was Sherman Peak. The joy of seeing the open country to the S.W. is best expressed by Gass who wrote, "When this discovery was made there was as much joy and rejoicing among the corps, as happens among passengers at sea, who have experienced a dangerous protracted voyage, when they first discover land on the long looked for coast."

Whitehouse states that after seeing the plains they "descended three miles, then ascended another mountain as bad as any we have been up before. It made the sweat run off our horses and ourselves." This is a vivid description of the trip from Sherman Peak into Sherman Saddle and to the top of the mountain to the west.

The party reached Hungery Creek at the mouth of Doubt Creek; the second is Bowl Creek. The little creek on which they camped is unnamed and unmarked except for a metal stake. It rises near Green Saddle. I have suggested that it be named Soup Creek.

Sept. 20, 1805. Clark: "I set our early and proceeded on through a country as rugged as usual. Passed over a low mountain into the forks of a large creek (Lolo and Eldorado), which I kept down two miles, and ascended a high, steep mountain, leaving the creek to our left hand. Passed the head of several drains on a dividing ridge and at 12 miles descended the mountain to a level pine country. Proceeded on through a beautiful country for three miles to a small plain in which I found many Indian lodges. At a distance of one mile from the lodges I met three Indian boys. When they saw me, they ran and hid themselves in the grass. I dismounted, gave my gun and horse to one of the men, searched and found two of the boys, gave them small pieces of ribbon and sent them forward to the village. Soon after a man came out to meet me, with great caution, and conducted me to a large spacious lodge, which he told me by signs was the lodge of his great chief, who had set out three days previous with all the warriors of the nation to war on a southwest direction, and would return in 15 to 18 days. The few men who were left in the village, and great numbers of women, gathered around me with much apparent signs of fear, and appeared pleased. They gave us a small piece of buffalo meat, and dried salmon, berries and roots in different states, some round and some like an onion, which they call pash-she-co. Of this they make bread and soup. They also gave us the bread made of this root, all of which we ate heartily. I gave them a few small articles as presents, and proceeded on with a chief to his village 2 miles in the same plain, where we were treated kindly in their way, and continued with them all night."

"These two villages consist of about 30 double lodges, but few men, a number of women and children. They call themselves Chopunnish or pierced noses. Their dialect appears to be very different from the Flatheads I have seen, dress similar, with more white and blue beads, brass and copper in different forms, shells, and wear their hair in the same way. They are large portly men, small women, and handsome featured."

"Immense quantity of the Quamash (camas) or passheco root gathered in piles about the plain. The roots much like an onion in marshy places. The seeds are in triangular shells on the stalk. They sweat them in the following manner, i.e., dig a hole three feet deep, cover the bottom with split wood, on top of which they lay small stones about three or four inches thick, a second layer of split wood, and set the whole on fire, which heats the stones. After the fire is extinguished, they lay grass and mud mixed on the stones, on that dry grass which supports and passheco root a thin coat of grass is laid on top. A small fire is kept, when necessary, in the center of the kiln."

"I find myself very unwell all of the evening from eating the fish and roots. Sent out hunters. They kill nothing, but saw some signs of deer."

Comment: Clark left Cedar Creek, at Lewis and Clark Grove, and climbed the low ridge between Cedar and Lolo Creeks. He then went down this ridge to the forks of Lolo and Eldorado Creeks; crossed Lolo Creek and down it about one mile. From this point he climbed to Crane Meadows. From there he went over the shoulder of Brown Ridge and down Miles Creek to Weippe Prairie.

He came upon three boys near Eric Larson's ranch. The first village was near Opresik's buildings. The second camp was on the arm of the meadow southwest of Weippe. The first road to Weippe came to this arm of the meadow, as did the trail from Weippe to Orofino. There are no markers at either of these camp sites.

The name Weippe is of Nez Perce origin and is so old it has lost its meaning. Even in 1891 when my father asked some of the old Indians what it meant, they had no answer except that it was the name of a place. The English pronunciation is We-ipe (long i) but the Nez Perce pronounced it Oy-yipe. It is a meadow where the Indians gathered camas, raced horses and played games.

Lewis and Clark called the Nez Perce, "Cho-pun-nish," which they said meant pierced noses. Kate McBeth in her book The Nez Perces Since Lewis and Clark says, "Lewis and Clark called these Indians the "Cho-po-nish." This was not correct, the word being Chup-nit-pa-lu, or people of the pierced noses. William Parsons says the correct spelling is Chop-nit-pa-lu, the o is long.

The Nez Perces actually called themselves Ne-me-Poo or a slight variation of this word. Alice Fletcher, who spent four years with the Nez Perces says: "Their native name 'Nim-e-poo' signified 'the men or the real people', an appellation commonly used by tribes to distinguish themselves from other peoples." The French called them the Nez Perce (Ney-per-say) but this name has been anglicized to Nez Perce or Nezperce. It means pierced noses.

Passheco is a Shoshone word for camas. Later Lewis and Clark called it quamash. The Nez Perce word is close to khamas from which comes the English word camas.

According to Nez Perce legend the Nez Perce considered massacring the party of Clark at Weippe but were persuaded by one of their women named Wat-ku-ese, who had been befriended by white people when a captive among Indians to the east, to treat them kindly. Captain Clark knew of no such incident, but he did say that he met an Indian woman who had been as far east as the Mandan Village. This statement strongly supports the Indian story.

Sept. 20, 1805, Lewis: Lewis first describes some birds which I take to be the flicker, Steller's jay, camp robber or Canadian jay and three species of grouse common in the Bitterroot Mountains. Then he states "We were detained until 10 A.M. in consequence of not being able to collect our horses. We proceeded about two miles when we found the greater part of a horse, which Captain Clark had met with and killed for us. He informed me by note that he would proceed as fast as he could to the level country which lay to the S.W. of us.....to hunt until our arrival. At one o'clock we halted on a small branch running to the left and made a hearty meal of our horsebeef, much to the comfort of our hungry stomachs. Here I learned that one of the pack horses with his load, was missing and immediately dispatched Baptiest LaPage, who was in charge of him, to search for him. He returned at 3 P.M. without the horse. The load of the horse was of considerable value, consisting of merchandise and all my stock of winter clothing. I, therefore, dispatched two of my best woodsmen to search for him, and proceeded on with the party."

"Our route lay through a thick forest of large pine, the general course being S 25 W about 15 miles. We camped on a ridge where there was but little grass for our horses and at a distance from water. However, we obtained as much as served our purpose and supped on our beef."

Comment: Captain Lewis went up Hungery Creek and crossed over into the Fish Creek drainage where he cooked lunch. He then went over the Lochsa Divide and camped on the ridge between Dollar and Sixbit Creeks. This camp is not marked and, so far as I know, has never been located.

Sept. 21, 1805. Lewis: "We were detained this morning until 11 A.M. in consequence of not being able to collect our horses. We set out and proceeded along the ridge on which we encamped, leaving it at one and a half miles we passed a large creek (Eldorado) running to the left just above its junction with another (Dollar) which runs parallel with and on the left of our road before we struck the creek."

"Through the level, wide and heavily timbered bottom of this creek (Eldorado) we proceeded for about two and a half miles, when bearing to the right, we passed a broken country heavily timbered, great quantities of which had fallen, and so osbstructed our road that it was almost impractical to proceed in many places."

"Through these hills we proceeded about five miles, when we passed a small creek (Cedar Creek) where Capt. Clark had camped on the 19th. Passing this creek, we continued our route 5 miles through a similar country, when we struck a large creek (Lolo) at its forks."

"Passed the north branch (Lolo) and continued down it on the west side one mile and camped in a small open bottom, where there was tolerable feed for our horses. I directed the horses be hobbled to prevent delay in the morning, being determined to make an forced march tomorrow in order to reach, if possible, the open country."

"We killed a few pheasants; I killed a prairie wolf (coyote), which together with our horsebeef and some crawfish which we obtained in the creek, enabled us to make one more hearty meal, not knowing where the next would be found."

Comment: Captain Lewis and party went down the ridge between Dollar and Sixbit Creeks, crossed Eldorado Creek and went down it two miles. Clark gave a longer distance but Lewis appears correct. Then they crossed over the ridge to Cedar Creek. From there they went to the top of the ridge between Cedar Creek and Lolo Creeks. This ridge they followed to the mouth of Eldorado Creek. Here they crossed Lolo Creek by a sign which designates it as "Wolf Camp".

The next day Lewis made it to Weippe Prairie.