Park Archives: Lava Beds National Monument

Cracking and sputtering, it released liquid rock and rivers of fire across the landscape. Intermittent eruptions over thousands of years layered the land, leaving intricate caves, cones, craters, and black, jagged blankets of lava. The Modoc called this "the land of burnt-out fires." Tule Lake and Lava Beds were then, and are today, the center of their world.

This can be a forbidding place, a world foreign to outsiders. The Modoc and their ancestors lived in this rugged land for over 10,000 years. Following the rhythms of nature, they moved freely across their homeland until they were forcibly removed.

The blazing of the Applegate Trail through the heart of Modoc territory was the beginning of the end for the traditional Modoc way of life. Increasing numbers of white settlers claimed ancestral Modoc land, conflicts escalated, and both sides resorted to violent attacks. By the 1860s settlers demanded area tribes be moved to the Klamath Reservation in Oregon. The Modoc reluctantly signed a treaty, but consistently requested a reservation in their homeland. Poor conditions and disagreements with other tribes on the reservation convinced some Modoc to return home. Broken promises, bitter resentments, and distrust made negotiations impossible.

The Modoc War began on November 29, 1872, when troops from Fort Klamath tried to force the resisting Modoc back to the reservation. They fled to the natural fortress of the lava beds, to what is today called "Captain Jacks Stronghold." In April 1873 peace talks began. Toby Riddle, a Modoc woman married to white settler Frank Riddle, served as an interpreter between the Modoc and the army. Kientpoos (Captain Jack) wanted his people to be allowed to stay in their homeland.

He also wanted peace. Modoc society ruled by consensus. Remembering the 1852 slaughter of 30 members of their tribe, a majority voted to eliminate the peace commissioners. On April 11, 1873, peace commissioners Gen. Edward Canby and Rev. Eleazar Thomas were killed. Gen. William T. Sherman soon called for the "utter extermination" of the Modoc.

For six months 1,000 troops and volunteers fought to capture fewer than 60 Modoc warriors and their families. Those who resisted were exiled to the Quapaw Agency in Oklahoma.

Medicine Lake is a shield volcano that has been active for 500,000 years. Its eruptions, from nearly 520 surface vents, have been gentle rather than explosive. This has resulted in a low, gently-sloping, shield-like profile. Today you can see evidence of over 30 separate lava flows throughout the park.

Eruptions occurring 30-40,000 years ago formed over 700 lava tube caves found in the park. Lava tubes form when streams of hot, flowing lava start to cool. The center of the stream stays hot and continues to flow as the outside begins to cool and harden. The hot lava drains out, leaving a pipe-like cave. Multiple eruptions can stack caves on top of one another, creating multilevel caves. When a lava tube ceiling collapses, it opens access to the cave below.

The Modoc life and culture was perfectly tuned to this environment and the richness of the resources it provided. They lived in semi-permanent winter villages along Lost River and Tule Lake. Each year as winter turned to spring, they began a seasonal round of fishing, hunting, and gathering. Ragged and rough, the terrain of the lava flows could be dangerous, but to the Modoc it was a sacred landscape. It provided bounty in the hunt and challenged those seeking power and knowledge through vision quests.

Established in 1925, Lava Beds National Monument protects and interprets this volcanic land, its early human occupation, and the Modoc defense of their homeland. Learn about activities and trails at the visitor center.

The visitor center bookstore has snacks, ice, flashlights, helmets, videos, batteries, books, and souvenirs.

Gas, firewood, restaurants, and showers are available in nearby communities of Tionesta, CA; Tulelake, CA; and Merrill, OR (20-40 minutes from the visitor center).

Accessibility We strive to make facilities and programs accessible to all. Please call, ask at the visitor center, or go to our website for more information.

Mammoth Crater Impressive 36,000 year old vents that created lava tube caves in the area.

Symbol Bridge/Big Painted Cave Marvel at prehistoric pictographs and artwork.

Schonchin Butte Hike the trail to the fire lookout built by the Civilian Conservation Corps.

Fleener Chimneys View volcanic vents and spatter cones created by globs of lava.

Thomas-Wright Battlefield Visit the site of a decisive Modoc victory over the US Army.

Captain Jacks Stronghold Explore where Modoc families took refuge as they fought for their homeland.

Petroglyph Point Visit this former island with ancient carvings that is significant to native cultures.

Wilderness Congress has protected 28,460 acres of Lava Beds National Monument as wilderness under the 1964 Wilderness Act. Information about the National Wilderness Preservation System can be found at www.wilderness.net.

Before entering a cave, you are required to obtain a permit at the visitor center or fee booth.

Many of the 700-plus caves have steep entry points, rocky trails, and, in some cases, very low ceilings. Over two dozen caves have developed entrances and trails. They vary in difficulty, length, and complexity. Start at the visitor center for screening, information, and to talk to a ranger about the caves.

Wear Protective Clothes Caves are about 55°F (13°C) year-round, however caves with ice are colder. Wear long sleeves, pants, and closed-toe footwear. Helmets, gloves and kneepads are recommended in moderately and most challenging caves.

Bring Enough Light Each person should carry at least one flashlight with extra batteries. Flashlights are loaned free of charge at the visitor center.

Protect Your Head Wear a helmet in all caves. Bump hats are sold at the visitor center.

Don't Go Alone Choose caves suitable for everyone in your group. Don't push beyond anyone's limits.

Know Your Route Be observant. Be aware of junctions and landmarks. A cave map book can be purchased at the visitor center. Tell someone where you are going.

• Caves are amazing, fragile environments. Please take only pictures and leave only footprints. Leave no trace.
• Do not eat, drink, smoke, or leave trash.
• Cave slowly and carefully.
• Do not use caves as bathrooms.
• Stay on the trails.
• Do not touch cultural artifacts, paintings, cave formations, or gold and silver microbial mats.
• Use electric flashlights, not carbide or gas lamps.
• Do not disturb any cave life.
• Pets are not allowed in caves.

Get a Permit If you plan on entering any cave in Lava Beds National Monument, stop by the visitor center or fee booth and obtain a permit.

Display your pass in your windshield to show you have been through the screening process and are helping protect the bats that live here.

If you have gear that has been used in caves or mines in the US, Canada, or Europe, please leave these items at home or in your car. If used, this gear must be properly decontaminated.

White-Nose Syndrome Since 2006, bats have been dying in unprecedented numbers in the eastern United States and Canada from white-nose syndrome, a fatal condition associated with exposure to fungus. Humans can spread the fungus between caves, mines, and other bat roost sites. Help us prevent the spread of this devastating disease.

The contents of brochures, site bulletins and trading cards (denoted with a colored caption) can be viewed by clicking on the cover. Most modern-day brochures, however, are cover only (denoted by a white caption) due to photograph copyrights. These items are historical in scope and are intended for educational purposes only; they are not meant as an aid for travel planning. The dates under each brochure do not reflect the complete range of years that a particular brochure was issued.

February 1939	cover only 1941		1949
1954		1961	1966	1970
1974	1977	1978	1982
1985-1990		cover only 1994-2000		cover only 2002-2006
cover only 2008-2013		cover only 2015-2021

Date Unknown	Date Unknown	Date Unknown	Date Unknown	Petroglyph Point: An interpretive walk Date Unknown	Petroglyph Point: An interpretive walk Date Unknown
Amphibians and Reptiles of Lava Beds National Monument Date Unknown		Amphibians and Reptiles of Lava Beds National Monument Date Unknown		Amphibians and Reptiles of Lava Beds National Monument Date Unknown
Butterflies Date Unknown		A Brief History of the Modoc War Date Unknown		A Brief History of the Modoc War Date Unknown
The Story Behind the Flag Date Unknown		The Geology of Lava Beds National Monument Date Unknown		The Geology of Lava Beds Date Unknown
The Geology of Lava Beds Date Unknown		The Geology of Lava Beds Date Unknown		The Geology of Lava Beds Date Unknown
Images in Stone Date Unknown		The Rock Art of Lava Beds 1984		Western Juniper Management Date Unknown
Lava Beds Bats Date Unknown		Lava Beds Bats Date Unknown		Lava Beds Caves Date Unknown
Lava Beds Caves Date Unknown		The Western Rattlesnake Friend or Foe? Date Unknown		Lava Bed Trails Date Unknown
Lava Beds Trails Date Unknown		Lava Beds Trails Date Unknown		The Land of Burnt-out Fires Date Unknown
The Modocs of Oregon / The Modoc Tribe of Oklahoma Date Unknown		The Modocs Date Unknown		Prescribed Burn, North of Schonchin Butte, Fall 1995 1995
Fire at Lava Beds Date Unknown		Putting the Lava in the Lava Beds Date Unknown		The Sleeping Giant Date Unknown
Things to See and Do on Your Own Date Unknown		Things to See and Do on Your Own Date Unknown		Caving Date Unknown
History of Schonchin Butte Lookout Date Unknown		History of Schonchin Butte Lookout Date Unknown		Bird Field Checklist Date Unknown
Birds of Lava Beds Date Unknown		Birds of Lava Beds Date Unknown		Ice Cave Closures at Lava Beds Date Unknown
Plants Date Unknown		Plants Date Unknown		A Flora of Lava Beds National Monument Date Unknown
Campground Information Date Unknown		Campground Information Date Unknown		Local Lodging and Camping Date Unknown
Mammals of Lava Beds Date Unknown		Mammals of Lava Beds Date Unknown		Visitor Guide to the Medicine Lake Highlands Volcanic Area Date Unknown
White-nose Syndrome: The Deadly Invader Date Unknown		White-nose Syndrome Info Card Date Unknown		Trip Planner Date Unknown	Keep Wildlife Wild! Date Unknown
The Modoc Way Date Unknown		Weather Date Unknown		Wilderness Camping Date Unknown
cover only Captain Jack's Stronghold Historic Trail 1978		cover only Captain Jack's Stronghold Historic Trail 1992		cover only Gillems Camp Trail 2007
Ranger-Guided Tours and Activities Date Unknown		Catacomb Cave February 2022	Cave Safely/Cave Softly Date Unknown

Captain Jack's Stronghold USGS Professional Paper 838 (David A. Johnston and Julie Donnelly-Nolan, eds., 1981)

Going Down the Tubes (Bruce W. Rogers, extract from California Geology, Vol. 45 No. 5, September-October 1992, ©California Department of Conservation)

Hospital Rock (Erwin N. Thompson, Jennifer Hunt Watts and Laurin C. Huffman II, March 27, 1972)

Thomas-Wright Battle Site (Erwin N. Thompson, Jennifer Hunt Watts and Laurin C. Huffman II, March 27, 1972)

The following visual bibliography is just a sampling of the handbooks and books which have been published for this park. NPSHistory.com does not endorse these, but are merely presenting them for informational purposes only. As most are copyrighted, we are only able to provide the covers, and not contents, of these publications.

cover only Ancient Tribes of the Klamath Country Carrol B. Howe 1968	Modoc War: Its Military History & Topography Erwin N. Thompson 1971	The life of lava beds 1973	cover only Burnt-Out Fires: California's Modoc Indian War Richard Dillon 1973
cover only The Modoc War 1872-1873 Harry V. Sproull 1975	Return of the Bighorn to Lava Beds National Monument James A. Blaisdell c1976	cover only Ancient Modocs of California and Oregon Carrol B. Howe 1979	cover only Lava Beds Underground 1982
cover only The Modocs and Their War Keith A. Murray 1984	cover only Inside the Caves Charles L. Arnold 1986	cover only Lava Beds Caves Charlie & Jo Larson 1990	cover only Lava Beds National Monument Susan Lamb 1991
cover only Life Amongst the Modocs: Unwritten History Joaquin Miller 1996	cover only Hell With the Fire Out: A History of the Modoc War Arthur Quinn 1997	cover only The Indian History of the Modoc War Jeff C. Riddle 1998	cover only The Devil's Homestead: Celebrating 75 Years of the Lava Beds National Monument 2000
cover only Unforgiving Landscape: Lava Beds National Monument and the Modoc War 2011