HISTORY OF THE OREGON STATE PARKS: 1917-1963

Origin of Park Idea

The history of State Parks of Oregon could well start with the administration of the late Governor Oswald West. In his message to the 1913 Legislature he said, "The ocean beach from the Columbia River on the North to the California State line on the South should be declared a Public Highway." Then at the next regular legislative assembly in 1915 he said, "The ocean beach has been reserved to the public for a highway." However, through the years the use of the beach as a highway has been almost nil and instead the area became a playground for the people of the State.

Further early thought relating to what later became one of our finest parks was expressed by former Governor James Withycombe in his message to the 1917 Legislature: "At Champoeg on May 2, 1843, was held a gathering of unique significance in the western history of the United States, marking the official birth of Oregon. The anniversary of this occasion is celebrated each year. It seems eminently fitting that the State should recognize the significance of these annual meetings and the event they commemorate by giving financial aid to the erection of a modest building at Champoeg."

In the study of the origin of parks in Oregon, it is clear the ideas put forth in the beginning were not the same as those ultimately determined. The thought of most people was to retain the natural environment along the highways as nearly as possible and at the same time provide stopping places for the traveler. Then, to create some natural beauty where none or very little existed, it was decided to plant the highway rights of way with trees or shrubs suitable, or indigenous, to the region.

Even before the advent of the Oregon Parks System there were a few people who held advance thinking, such as that expressed in a speech by Charles Eliot, an eminent landscape designer, to the Massachusetts Legislature in 1891: "It has been pointed out that the location of large public reserves should be determined chiefly with reference to the inclusion therein of the finest scenery of each region." By far the majority of the early sponsors thought in terms of beautifying the highways by preservation and planting.

In the period 1919-1920 the Highway Commission, because of lack of legal authority, found it was in a peculiar situation as relates to land acquisitions to meet the needs and demands for property other than rights of way. With this in mind, State Highway Attorney, J. M. Devers, wrote in the Biennial Report as follows:

"The experiences of the Highway Commission have developed the fact that some additional legislation is needed to take care of situations which could not have been foreseen when existing legislation was enacted, and we take the liberty at this time to suggest some matters for the consideration of the members of the Legislature and for legislative expression thereon. . . .

"It often develops that state highways could be made more convenient and more beautiful and their scenic features improved if the State Highway Commission or some other department of state government had the authority to acquire by purchase, agreement or by the exercise of the power of eminent domain, additional land for parking privileges and purposes. This matter, it appears to us, is a matter worthy of consideration by the Legislature.

"Closely related to the subject just mentioned is the matter of preserving the trees along the highways for a certain distance back from the right of way. There should be some legislation which would make this possible; such legislation would, of course, necessitate the appropriation of private property for the purpose of beautifying or otherwise adding to public highways, and therefore, some means or measures would be necessary to compensate the owners of the property."

In the period 1921-1922, as the result of action of the 1921 Legislature, the Biennial Report says: ". . . progress has been made in the matter of acquisition of parks and camping sites as well as the saving of trees along the roadside and the planting of young trees and shrubs. The response of many civic organizations to the latter feature is encouraging and it is expected and hoped that this local assistance will continue as the results accomplished become more noticeable.

"It has been the thought of the Commission that in very many instances public-spirited citizens would be glad to donate park sites and thus conserve the state funds for improvements, and this expectation has been realized to a limited extent, several such gifts having been received which are gratefully acknowledged and which have been accepted for the state."

The desirability and requests for the acquisition of lands along the highways was noted in Jackson and Douglas Counties, with particular mention of camping places at Tub Springs on the Ashland-Klamath Falls Highway and at Rocky Point School near Gold Hill where "there was an abundance of water, shade and fuel." Another was requested near the end of the bridge opposite the town of Rogue River, another a few miles north of Grants Pass and still another on the Umpqua River north of Myrtle Creek. There were many and urgent requests for right of way beautification, and camping was indicated. The result was that the Engineer was instructed to "investigate the matter of park possibilities along the highways."

The Secretary of the Old Oregon Trail Association, organized to promote the interests of travel, was concerned with the acquisition of timber strips along the highways, particularly those between La Grande and Pendleton. In support of the subject and the right of way bill before the Legislature, a letter of February 10, 1925, states in part: "The plan would stop further butchery of these trees which, by the way, constitutes the only pine forest on the whole Oregon Trail."

The late "teens" and prior to 1922 was a period when little was provided for public camping. Many visitors of the state traveled in open cars with tents and other camping paraphernalia piled high on the Model T's, stopping wherever a spot with water could be found.

This is the impetus that started the ball rolling. It was strongly in the mind of every car owner, creating the basis on which demands for camping facilities were made on the public officials and others interested in travel. Places in which to stay were few, making other than a short trip a problem. Camping was the popular pastime for which there were very few suitable commercial places available. Therefore, a traveler took with him food, cooking utensils, bedding, tents, etc.

There were reasons for such a situation, mainly economic. A Model T Ford could be purchased for $500. Henry Ford, in designing the Model T, declared he was building a car for every family—a poor man's car. The speed in those days was about 30 miles per hour. The car owner therefore had to plan a very economical trip if his family was to have an outing, camping wherever possible and particularly along the highways in the timbered or sheltered places where water could be found either on or off the right of way.

With the above thinking in mind, it was natural that the proponents of camping should look to the State Highway Commission to provide facilities as an interest to promote travel and highway use.

To illustrate the support given to parks and camping plans in Oregon, the April 1920 issue of Oregon Motorist, remarking about the large number of visitors at the forthcoming Shrine Convention in Portland said: "There are not enough storage facilities in town even to handle the ordinary touring autos let alone such a gathering as will be here during that week, and if there ever will be a time when an auto camp site will be an absolute necessity the week of the Shrine Convention will be that time." In remarking about the growth of motor car camping, the increasing establishment of municipal campsites, and the mutual advantages thereof, the June 1920 issue says: "The city of Walla Walla, Washington, entertained 2,791 motor car parties in the free camping grounds set aside by the municipality. At Springerville, Arizona, 6,068 ears registered during the past season. As for the coming season all signs point to a tremendous movement of automobile tourists over the nation's highways and byways. This is as it should be. There is no greater antidote for ignorance than the modern automobile and because this antidote is 'easy to take' it will be generally partaken of in liberal doses, thus promoting health and pleasure at the same time that it furnishes a broad and general education. . . Smaller cities throughout Oregon began providing such accommodations for auto tourists several years ago. Some of these places have been made so attractive as to influence tourists to consider . . . them a sort of summer home. They are a valuable asset to any community."

With the thought of improving the situation, many letters were received by the Commission and the Governor. In Governor Olcott's message to the Legislature on January 10, 1921, he made the following remarks:

"We are expending thousands of dollars in urging the tourist to come here. It is necessary that we care for him when he comes. He must be given a genuine welcome; he must be given proper accommodations; our state must be open to him from all of its four corners and the state should make provision for such a welcome. The welcoming of and the handling of tourists coming to Oregon should be developed along soundly organized lines and I ask your consideration of proper measures to this end.

"As we have been developing our highways and inviting tourists to share in the glories of our state, the feeling has been growing constantly that steps should be taken to protect the natural beauties along such highways, particularly those sylvan beauties which in many instances have been destroyed in the denuding of the forest. This is a subject of such vast importance to the welfare of Oregon that in the near future I hope to advise you of my findings and recommendations in regard thereto in a separate message to your honorable body."

Governor Olcott's separate message to the Legislature is as follows:

"MEMBERS OF THE LEGISLATURE: As indicated to you in my message delivered at the opening of this session I consider the question of the preservation of scenic beauties along our highways of sufficient moment to touch upon it in a special message to your honorable body. If you will bear with me I urge upon you particular consideration of the recommendations I am now about to make.

"No other state in the Union has been blessed with so many natural glories as is the State of Oregon. Crowning all of these glories are our forest growths. Without them our mountains would be rocky, forbidding eminences; our streams would dwindle into rivulets; our lakes be shorn of the sylvan fringes which make them entrancing to the nature lover, and our valleys be monotonous stretches. This heritage has been too long neglected. So prodigal has nature been with us; so lavishly has she spread her feasts at our banquet table, we have been apt to feel that these glories would be never ending. We have become satiated and it has required the thousands from the outside to come and express their wonderment before we actually have awakened to the fact that Oregon is blessed among the states.

"The public realizes the importance of these things now, and is fully awake to the fact that, while we have lost many things, there are many things we cling to and preserve for all posterity. This legislative assembly may make itself remembered in the history of our state by prompt action to assist in the preservation of what should never be lost.

"All of the things we have been striving for, the development of tourist travel; the urge to make and keep our state the most livable in the Union; the desire to keep our children in God's own environment, surrounded by the beauties to which they are the true heirs, all of these will be surrendered and lost unless we act and act promptly.

"The preservation of forest beauties is a matter of deep concern to the lumber industry. And it is not my intention or wish to deprive private owners of valuable lands of those things which they have acquired by rightful and legal process. . . In fact, vast tracts are not needed to carry this plan to fruition. Isolated tracts tucked away in pretty nooks; virgin stretches of forest along highways, to be retained of sufficient width to leave the beauties of the landscapes unimpaired; new plantings of trees, shrubberies and foliage along the highways, all of these things can be accomplished without too great expense and without arbitrary confiscation of property.

"Some state agency should be the directing head in these endeavors, and I believe that the state highway commission, working in cooperation with the forestry department, the proper body to be clothed with the necessary powers.

"This matter should not be cast lightly aside. While the hand of man has done much and is doing much to make Oregon a great state, the hand of God fashioned here in the primeval wilderness an ideal earthly paradise which we must preserve as nearly intact as possible without impeding the ordinary progress of civilization.

"To properly investigate the question now before us, last summer I named a committee consisting of W. B. Ayer, Jonah B. Wise, L. A. Lewis, E. N. Hurd and Mrs. W. S. Kinney, and this committee went into the matter intelligently and disinterestedly. One-large company, the Crown Willamette Paper Company, immediately ceased cutting of timber along the Seaside-Cannon Beach Highway in Clatsop county and I understand is marking time pending action of your honorable body. That road probably accommodates more tourists than any other single road in the state during the summer season and on that road is demonstrated very forcibly the difference between natural timber beauties and the naked stretches left after logging operations with modern machinery have denuded the hillsides. So marked is the difference I venture to say no person passes over the road but comments upon it. That is a single instance. Hundreds of others present themselves. The highway department has cooperated in keeping the executive office advised as to these things and that department I am certain would throw itself into assistant in the work with wholehearted energy.

"The federal commissioner of Indian affairs has agreed that hereafter in all contracts for logging on Indian reservations a strip of at least three hundred feet wide along highways will be reserved at all times to continue the timbered effects along such roads passing through the reservations. The federal government has indicated this deep interest in the matter after it had been called to its attention through my office and the highway department as to a stretch of road in the Klamath reservation, and the state should follow suit along state highways wherever possible.

". . . I respectfully suggest that this whole matter be referred to one of your committees, preferably the committee on roads and highways, for its consideration and approval. If better plans than those outlined in the reports . . . may be formulated, I certainly shall be pleased to have them enacted into law."

As a result of the Governor's request, legislation was provided for the Commission to obtain land outside of the highway right of way as expressed in the law as follows:

"The state highway commission may acquire, for and in the name of the people of the state of Oregon, by purchase, donation or by proceedings in eminent domain, rights of way, land or trees and ground necessary for the culture and support thereof on or along the course of any state highway or any public highway within a maximum distance of 300 feet on each side of the center thereof, in any case where the acquisition of such rights of way, land and trees will be for the benefit of the state highway or public highway in aiding the maintenance and preservation of the roadbed of such highway or aid in the maintenance and preservation of the attractions and the scenic beauties thereof."

The discussions noted above resulted in a great deal of creative thinking, particularly by the people of the state and the highway engineers. However, the immediate interest was planting trees and preserving the growth that remained on the right of way. Also, obtaining small areas to preserve the scenic aspects and growth and to provide resting spots and water for the traveler.

The urging by Governor Olcott sparked the thought in the minds of many people to give lands for public use as their circumstances would permit. One of these was the gift of 260 acres of land of unusual scenic value at Rowena Loops on the Columbia River Highway in Wasco County by a nearby orchardist, Mark A. Mayer, who first indicated his intention to make the donation on May 11, 1921. However, the transaction was not completed and deed signed until April 12, 1924. The park was named "Mayer Park."

This gift was followed by others, some of which are the Memaloose viewpoint near Hood River by Mr. and Mrs. Roy D. Chatfield in 1925, Sarah Helmick Park located three miles south of Monmouth in Polk County in 1922, Lava River Caves south of Bend in Deschutes County in 1926, Bradley Wayside at Clatsop Crest about 20 miles east of Astoria in Clatsop County, and many more parks and additions to existing sites.

Advisory Committee on Tree Planting

It is impossible to think of the beginning of Oregon State Parks without the inclusion of the beautification ideas as expressed and carried on by the Highway Commission in the period 1919-1930.

Further in this connection, the Commission appointed an "Advisory Committee on Roadside Planting" on September 26, 1924. This Committee consisted of Professor G. R. Hyslop, Extension Agent, Oregon Agricultural College, Corvallis, Professor A. R. Sweetser, University of Oregon, Eugene, and Jesse A. Currey, industrialist, Portland. On October 28, 1924, A. L. Peck, State College, Corvallis, was added, and in December 1924, C. N. Granger, district forester, U. S. Forest Service, Portland, was asked to become a member. He accepted but suggested that C. J. Buck, assistant district forester, attend, presumably in his place.

This Committee held its first meeting on December 10, 1924, at which time they discussed various phases of the problem and decided "to consider the highways to be a part of the state park and boulevard system." The work proposed is outlined as follows:

"I. Preservation and Protection of present flora and scenic resources

   A. Education of public to protect floral and scenic resources
      1. By means of:
         placards
         signs
         arousing public sentiment
         interesting organizations
   B. Protection
      1. Fire protection
      2. Despoliation
         a. Rubbish dumping
         b. Indiscriminate picking
         c. Billboards
         d. Public utilities

      It was suggested that no publicity be given to items 'c' and 'd' at least until work is definitely established.

   C. Laws (if needed)

"II. Roadside improvements

   A. Investigation of problem
   B. Recommendations
   C. Education
      1. Material
      2. Planting
   D. Appropriate city entrances
   E. Protection against erosion and blowing (healing scars)

"III. Acquisition of desirable sites, based upon proper investigation."

On March 28, 1927, Jesse A. Currey resigned because of health and L. A. McArthur was appointed to fill the vacancy on January 9, 1928. On the same date T. Ray Conway, Oregon State Motor Association, was also appointed.

This Committee was active in the matter of the selection and planting of the roadside trees and their care. A report noted, "Made inspection trips throughout the state and recommendations relative to soil conditions, topography, accessibility, plants and the growth of flowers, etc., at Helmick, Holman, Ditto, Bradley, O.W.R. & N., Viento, a proposed lake, and Memaloose Parks. Examined areas proposed for park purposes. Advised as to plantings at the entrances to cities and communities."

The Committee's interest in highway beautification was supported by many as expressed in a resolution dated January 27, 1926, by the Oregon State Chamber of Commerce (now Portland Chamber of Commerce) as follows:

"WHEREAS, the preservation of our wild flowers, flowering shrubs and forest stretches along our highways, is of vital importance to every citizen of the State of Oregon, and

"WHEREAS, it is common knowledge that these great assets to the natural beauty of our roadways are being wantonly destroyed, therefore,

"BE IT RESOLVED that we, the Directors of the Oregon State Chamber of Commerce, do earnestly request the citizens of the state, not only to refrain from picking flowers and shrubs along our highways, but also to aid, in every way possible, to create a public sentiment favoring this movement; also to encourage the planting and protection of trees and shrubs in places where there are none now growing."

In line with the thoughts expressed by the interested people and communities, the acquisition of lands on each side of the highway was recommended by the Committee, such as the Pass Creek lands on the Pacific Highway and Camas Mountain westerly from Roseburg, as well as strips easterly of Myrtle Point and between Coos Bay and Coquille. The latter two were never acquired. Other similar lands and park areas were examined.

The Committee was very much concerned as to the naming of parks as indicated in a report dated April 19, 1926, as follows:

"In case Parks are acquired without a special provision as to name, make use of the geographic or historic features of the country in connection with naming the park. Gift Parks may well be named after the donor if the park is in keeping with the donor's position."

In the naming of a park at Cape Sebastian in Curry County which carried at that time the name of a landholder, they said:

". . . it is the understanding of the Committee that the Geo. W. Henry Park was not a gift, but was purchased. In such an instance, probably, the name of the Cape, Cape Sebastian, or some other geographic or historical feature of southwestern Oregon is suggested."

The above suggestion was adopted by the Commission and has been a consistent policy since.

The Committee was active relative to the many requests from Chambers of Commerce, etc., in planting of the rights of way and naming highways such as reported in a meeting with the Dallas Chamber of Commerce on April 30, 1926, by G. R. Hyslop:

. . . it was their desire to plant native Hawthorne along the highway between Dallas and Salem. While it was suggested the highway be named 'Hawthorne Highway,' the group favored the name 'La Creole Road' as it somewhat parallels the stream originally of that name, later called Rickreall, as well as the community at the crossing of the two highways, West Side Pacific and Salem-Dallas."

At a meeting on August 3, 1928, the Advisory Committee on Tree Planting indicated a change of name to the Highway Parks and Recreation Committee without a change in personnel. At this meeting reports were given by members Peck, Conway and Commissioner Sawyer who attended the Conference on State Parks at San Francisco June 26-28, 1928. They were greatly enthused about state parks for Oregon. Professor Peck said, "People are willing to pay for recreation facilities when they are provided. California and other state park people recognize they are 'in the show business' to show something to their tourists. They must have scenic and park assets to show them, if they continue to reap their second largest harvest of the state. Scenery along the highways is very important for the future. It must be saved. Only 30 miles of California coast scenery is not now in private ownership. The California people are having trouble even in securing rights of way. He therefore believes that in Oregon we have not developed our parks: (a) on a sufficiently large scale, nor (b) to afford recreational features." Mr. Peck also recommends that, "Parks be not only scenic but should provide ample area and suitable places for recreation as swimming, camping and other things necessary for our young people."

Commissioner Sawyer said, "Charges should and could be made for park use, not as an entrance charge but as service charges. They should cover general maintenance, sanitation, policing, and real service features. We should look to acquiring and developing larger areas and give them adequate management. Land will never be cheaper than now." He "would like people to give authority to acquire a lot of land now."

Mr. Ray Conway remarked, "Our problem is not so critical as that of other states. We have preserved recognized scenic spots proved by the people's own attention and interest such as overlooks, convenient picnic spots, etc. We have developed the idea of preserving historic places but have not advanced in development of park places of educational value as parks of geologic, botanic, and other especial interest that people may learn more of them."

To further indicate the thoughts relating to parks in Oregon, the Commission was informed that a Lincoln National Memorial Park Association was formed as of August 1, 1928, with membership from the Toledo-Newport-Taft-Delake Chambers of Commerce. The thought was to promote a National Park in the area of Lincoln County, thereby preserving its natural scenery and interests. Sufficient interest was not obtained to be effective.

Discussing state parks and illustrating the support through the years, the February 1928 issue of the Oregon Motorist stated, "A beginning has been made. The few parks acquired to date are well scattered and representative of various attractions and scenic types. More yet needs to be done. . . The river and ocean beach sceneries are especially deserving of additional attention. The timber reservations should go on with additional impetus as greatly increasing the beauty and attractiveness of the highway system."

In a report by G. R. Hyslop, Secretary of the State Park and Recreation Advisory Committee, it was recommended that the state acquire certain lands along the Oregon coast and improve those already obtained. Many of these areas were later acquired. This was the result of the Committee's inspection trip along the coast from Astoria south to Yachats.

To illustrate the advance thinking of the Committee, particularly at this time since the name of the Advisory Committee changed to State Park and Recreation Committee, C. J. Buck stated in a paper relating to Oregon highway parks: "It is probably generally agreed that an ideal combination of state parks and forests into a coordinated program of moderate number and size of a few hundred acres scattered along the principal state highways and near large cities for picnicking and tourist-camping needs, and to crown the system by one or more large wilderness parks with whatever of primitive nature a state affords.

"In Oregon the type of wilderness park is amply fulfilled by the National Forest recreation areas, where mountains, lakes and forests give every variety of mountain outdoor recreation, with a distinct prerequisite of adventure. Primitive conditions as exemplified in sea beaches and dunes are being provided, as some six state highway parks already established on the Roosevelt [Coast] Highway are predominantly beach parks.

"Therefore, there is being rapidly accomplished in Oregon a well rounded-out system of highway parks."

There was some concern in relation to the use of state parks, particularly for overnight camping. The Commission told a Eugene attorney on January 25, 1926, that it had no intention of competing with private owners in the operation of auto camps. However, no plans were made for overnight use. The heavy demand for overnight use was confined to areas near the highways.

The activities of the Department, through the Advisory Committee and the Commission, created a great amount of interest. In May 1929, Governor I. L. Patterson expressed a desire to fulfill the need by the appointment of a State Park Commission. He believed it should consist of the members of the Highway Commission, H. B. Van Duzer, C. E. Gates and Robert W. Sawyer, together with two former Commission Chairmen, R. A. Booth and William Duby.

On July 24, 1929, the newly appointed Commission met at the request of the Governor, accompanied by Highway Engineer, Roy A. Klein, and Attorney J. M. Devers. Mr. Van Duzer was elected Chairman and Mr. Klein became Secretary. A subcommittee consisting of Sawyer, Booth and Devers wrote a policy statement, which was adopted, as follows: "To create and develop for the people of the state of Oregon a state park system, to acquire and protect timbered strips on the borders of state highways, rivers, and streams, to secure in public ownership typical stands of the trees native to Oregon, to maintain the public right to the use of the sea beaches of the state, to seek the protection of our native shrubs and flowers and to preserve the natural beauty of the state."

The new Commission reiterated a former policy of protecting forest trees along the highways, including U. S. Forest strips, acquiring public lands for park purposes, acquiring private forest lands, determining desirable park and recreational lands, furthering the efforts being made by garden and nature clubs, and seeking necessary legislation where needed to carry out the above policy.

This group held no subsequent meetings and, therefore, failed to function as a State Park Commission. It did give the park program official sanction and formed the basis for subsequent action.

The need for recreation facilities was being manifest by ever increasing vigor. In the early stages of the park program the emphasis was on beautification in both the preservation of the natural growth along the highways and improvement of the general appearance by planting trees and shrubs where none existed.

While these were of great value to the highway traveler, the proponents of the idea and those who preferred to camp rather than stay at hotels began to exert more and more influence on the public-spirited citizens, city officials, the Commission and engineers to make provision for places to stay.

The pressure, while in the main was insidious, nevertheless was effective in bringing about the park idea faster than any other one thing. It was not altogether local as was expressed in the reports of R. W. Sawyer, Ray Conway and A. L. Peck after attending the 1928 National Conference on State Parks in San Francisco. It was a growing desire on the part of the people of the state to broaden their interest and education to include the natural features of our state and elsewhere. Travel during the "twenties" by the roadside-camper tourist became great and the limited facilities available caused a widespread clamor for extensive parks. While there was no record kept of the use of state parks, it evidently was large.

The depression years, starting in late 1929, reduced the out-of-state tourist travel but increased the need for economical places to stay. The cities and towns were supplying such places to a limited extent but not sufficiently to fill the ever increasing demand.

Then too, at this time the privately owned stopping places along the highways and streams were being fenced and "No Trespassing" signs decorated the places. While the property owner was not to be criticized, since the horde of users had become so great he could no longer tolerate the intrusion, it did add greatly to the demand for parks.