CHAPTER 8: DEVELOPMENT AND NAVAJO TROUBLES, 1958-1962 On May 4, 1958, Paul A. Berger began his duties as superintendent at Canyon de Chelly. [1] Informal slide shows and talks were presented to visitors around a "small campfire circle" completed during the previous month. Aiding in these presentations as well as in patrols along the rim roads was Seasonal Ranger Martin A. Link. David Gorman was still the maintenance man, although he was on sick leave during the end of May due to sciatic rheumatism. [2] A tragic event also occurred in May with the death of John R. Nelson, partner and manager of the Thunderbird Ranch, who had a fatal heart attack. His wife, aided by John Wade, took over his duties. [3] In June, Mrs. Nelson decided to sell the Thunderbird. [4] An interesting report was filed in May by Franklin Smith, regional museum curator, concerning the museum at de Chelly. He wrote:
In the months of June, July, and August, almost 8,000 visitors were recorded at Canyon de Chelly. [6] Two automobile accidents occurred during this period. One involved a Government vehicle, which hit a tree in an effort to avoid a sheep, and another involved the collision of two privately-owned cars on the canyon floor. [7] Berger also reported in June that a contract was signed between the Bureau and the Pecos Construction Company to pave the remaining 16 miles of road between Chinle and Ganado Junction. The contract was to extend for about 1 year, and at its completion the 35 miles between the two points would be a paved surface. [8] Berger was also confronted with a problem relating to a proposed well drilling by the Navajos. Reed Winnie, president of the Chinle Chapter, stated that permission to drill a well and place a windmill in the area known as Peach Orchardabout 2 miles beyond White House Overlook road and approximately one-quarter mile from the rim of the canyonwas granted to the tribe by the original bill establishing the monument. [9] Berger, however, felt that they could not drill a well "within at least one-half mile of the Canyon rim since that is considered the Monument boundary and any development, other than National Park Service development, would not be permitted." [10] Improvements at the monument included three new fire extinguishers placed at the Thunderbird and two new easel exhibits placed at White House Trail and White House Ruin. Regular patrols also continued and included, besides the rim roads, the Spider Rock picnic grounds and trips up the canyon when possible. [11] Concerning the proposed selling of the Thunderbird Ranch, Berger reported that there were two parties interested. Mrs. Nelson was asking $150,000 for the Thunderbird, and Berger thought that the price was perhaps too high, because interest was lagging. [12] The month of August was a busy one. Over 3,600 people in 955 automobiles were counted from 41 states and 10 foreign countries. Work on the road between Chinle and Ganado Junction, which was subcontracted to the Witt-Ross Company, was progressing. Other road work included grading and placing drainage structures from Chinle Junction north to Many Farms and grading and sub-base work on the road south of Chinle Junction to Pinyon Junction. [13] Park personnel were involved in repairing the tread of the White House Trail, improving the South Rim Road, and inspecting for "Ips" infestation in the pinon trees at de Chellyof which a few scattered areas were found. A forest fire was reported on August 10 "in the tree cabling area on the Tsaile drainage." [14] Berger, Don Boileau, park ranger, and Don Lyndholm, range management supervisor, Bureau of Indian Affairs, helped in fighting the conflagration, along with approximately 75 other men. The fire did not threaten the park boundary, and by August 13 was under control, having destroyed from 1,200 to 1,500 acres. "All timber burned," wrote Berger, "was in the cabled tree area and did little damage to any timber of value." [15] The slide shows and evening programs ended in September, and the seasonal personnelLink, Boileau, and Richard P. Draperleft. [16] Also during the month jetty work was done at the ruins: 240 jetties were placed at Standing Cow Ruins, 160 constructed at Antelope Ruins, and 240 built at Tse Ta'a Ruins. [17] Berger also reported that he had reviewed the "Site Development, Residential and Utility Area" drawings for Canyon de Chelly and approved them. He was, however, concerned over the need for an additional 50 feet of land, which was being used by a Navajo lady for grazing purposes. He hoped that he could get permission from the tribe and lady for access to this area. [18] A report made by Regional Director Hugh Miller, who was at de Chelly from August 31 to September 1, reveals much about the operations there. Miller's inspection was made in relation to Mission 66 master planning. Some of his remarks on pertinent subjects follow:
Commenting on specific items, Miller found the office, which adjoined the superintendent's residence, tiny; the public campground small yet "delightful," with excellent maintenance; the rim drive unsurfaced, yet "remarkably free from trash, no easy achievement in the Indian Country." [20] Concerning overlooks, he believed the view from Tsegi Overlook "magnificent," and noted that the safety barrier and interpretive treatment that were needed were being planned for. The Junction Overlook received the same comments. The White House Overlook, on the other hand, which received the most visitors, had only limited interpretive devices in the form of self-guiding trail leaflets. [21] Commenting on the relations with the Navajos, Miller believed them to be good. He stated that
Miller also made remarks on the Thunderbird Ranch, which he felt was doing its job; on relations between the Park Service and the Bureau, which he believed to be excellent; and on Berger's administrative qualities, which he believed to be of the highest order. [23] Aside from this report, Berger commented on campfire interpretive programs at de Chelly and shed light on how things were done there. Berger believed the campfire programs, which consisted of 35 slides and ended with a question and answer session, were very beneficial. [24] In October the park ranger position was reclassified from GS-5 to GS-7. Also during the month the Park Service cooperated with the Navajo police in apprehending two drunken Navajo boys who had an accident in their pickup on the south rim of the canyon.[25] Stabilization work under contract was done at the foundation and base of White House Ruins. The work consisted of putting grout into the sand and debris under the ruins to prevent water from shifting and heaving the base material. [26] Evidently, this was a new pumping method of subsoil stabilization seldom used before. [27] The total cost of the project was $6,189.50. Archeologists Steen and Richert were to make periodic inspections to see how the work was progressing and the results. This process had been employed successfully in other stabilization projects, and it was hoped that it would be effective at the White House Ruins. [28] Berger was still concerned over the proposed developments at de Chelly, especially the problem of a right of way for the proposed south rim road. He believed that a boundary change would not be necessary. [29] He did, however, fear "a great deal of opposition" from the Navajos because the proposed road crossed a section of Navajo farm land. [30] In November the Navajo tribe did work on the Twin Trails into Canyon del Muerto. This was a Navajo work project for the unemployed and gave jobs to 10 Navajos. The Park Service gave advice when it was requested. Berger commented that "the work was accomplished by hand labor and a satisfactory job resulted." [31] Also during November, Berger spent several days in Santa Fe at the regional office at a meeting concerning relations with the Navajos. [32] Also present at the meeting were Guillet, then superintendent of Walnut Canyon National Monument, and Arthur H. White, superintendent at Navajo National Monument. [33] This meeting was a result of National Park Service Acting Director E. T. Scoyen's request for a study of the "Navajo's apparent suspicion of planning assistance that the Service has offered from time to time." [34] The result of this meeting was a report by Berger, Guillet, and White. They traced the early background of Navajo-United States Government contact from 1868 and the histories of the establishment of Canyon de Chelly [35] and Navajo national monuments. Then they turned to the main problem facing the Park Service: "How can we overcome this inbred distrust of government agencies and establish an atmosphere of mutual trust in our dealings with the Tribe?" [36] In answering this question, they felt that the choice of men to deal with the Navajos must be made wisely. They made some rather negative remarks about McSparron, who had owned the Thunderbird Ranch. They believed he had had a great deal of influence with the Navajos and served as a "local news dispensing agency, ward boss and general informer and advisor." He also interfered, according to Berger, Guillet, and White, with Park Service policies he did not agree with. [37]
Thompson to Rogers, Apr. 11, 1958, ibid. They felt that the Navajos had no ill feelings toward the Service personnel who had been stationed at de Chelly. "Without exception, the local people speak well of the monument custodians and superintendents." [38] Slight differences would arise, they said, but this was true of all Government agencies operating on reservations. They believed the Navajos had an "inherited distrust of all people," and hoped that the younger and better educated Navajos "might gradually lose some of this distrust." [39] Concerning the rapid shifting of monument personnel, they believed this to be a hindrance to building confidence and rapport between the Park Service and the Navajos. [40] In concluding their report, they made six recommendations: 1) they wanted to establish a position of liaison man between the Park Service and the Navajos and suggested Tom Dodge, son of the late Chee Dodge, for the slot. Dodge was employed as superintendent of San Carlos Apache Agency; 2) they hoped that the Park Service personnel in Navajo country would be better informed about the area; 3) they wanted the Navajos to be able to collect fees at the monuments, though for what was unclear; 4) they suggested setting up a booth at the Navajo Tribal Fair on an annual basis; 5) they hoped more Navajos would be employed by the Park Service in trainee positions; 6) they recommended that "superintendents of areas in Arizona and New Mexico be made aware of the problems of the service with the Indian Tribes and further recommend that they be requested to handle under their jurisdiction matters which concern the Indians with discretion and caution." [41] In December 1958, 433 visitors arrived at de Chelly in 130 cars. The total visitation for 1958 was 15,844 as compared to 13,235 for 1957. [42] Work was progressing on roads from Ganado Junction to Many Farms and from Chinle to the south. The maintenance man, Gorman, who was once again suffering from rheumatism, returned to work after 60 days of treatment. [43] Work was also done on a revision of the White House Trail guide. [44] The Thunderbird had accommodated 2,776 overnight guests during the year. It still had no buyer. [45] The Navajo tribe was not interested in becoming the owner, Paul Jones, Navajo Tribal Council chairman, stating that "the Navajo Tribe is not interested at this time in purchasing the possessory interest in the Thunderbird Ranch and trading post, and hereby waives its option to purchase such interest in accordance with the Navajo Tribe's lease." [46] Berger informed the regional director of the tribe's decision and said he felt that the proposed prospectus for the Thunderbird should be distributed to all parties "interested in purchasing a concession with the Park Service." [47] Berger then wrote to Mrs. Nelson and stated that the Navajos were not at present interested in buying the Thunderbird. He believed that the Navajo tribe would not interfere in the sale and informed her of the concession prospectus. In concluding his letter, Berger said that "the present contract, which runs until December 31, 1973, will operate until that date without interference from the tribe." [48] The prospectus included an invitation to "all persons or corporations interested in acquiring and operating the Thunderbird Ranch and Trading Post. . . ." [49] It further stated that an applicant must be acceptable not only to the Park Service but also to the Navajo Tribal Council. [50] Contents of the prospectus included a description of the Canyon de Chelly area, park visitation, and concession and Government operations. The Thunderbird Ranch was described as follows:
There were also two cabins for employees, a utility and storage building, a barn and storage building, and three guesthouses. The guesthouses totalled ten double units. [52] Besides discussing such matters as rates, insurance, and bonding, the prospectus contained information on Mission 66, "the ten-year program undertaken in 1956 by the National Park Service to bring the National Park System up to the standards which the American people want and have a right to expect." Included in the Mission 66 project at Canyon de Chelly were improvements on roads and trails. [53] The proposal for a water and sewage system at de Chelly caused problems because the proposed sewage lagoon was on fenced Indian land. [54] Berger was instructed to "take preliminary steps to obtain the authorization." [55] The acting regional director also wrote Berger and informed him that the sewage lagoon was definitely within the Canyon de Chelly National Monument boundaries and "this will provide a more advantageous position for us in negotiating for the release of the land needed since the act creating the Monument provides that land required for developments may be so used." [56] Furthermore, Berger was advised that
Berger, in turn, began negotiations with the Navajo owner of this land who was to receive a "permit for the use of the field . . . [and] will have the privilege of a 3/4-inch water line so that water may be taken into his house in return for permitting the National Park Service to construct the sewage lagoon in the field." [58] However, the negotiations apparently were not finalized, because the site for the sewage lagoon was moved to a new, less conspicuous location. [59] Following the recommendations made at the meeting in Santa Fe pertaining to Navajo-Park Service relations, space for a Park Service booth at the Navajo Tribal Fair, which was to be held September 11-14, was obtained from the fair committee. [60] National Park Service Associate Director Scoyen was very pleased with most of the recommendations and believed them worthwhile. He took exception, however, to the recommendation concerning the collection of fees, because this would necessitate legislation and because the expenses involved in collecting the fees would exceed the amount of money collected. [61] Responding to Scoyen's remarks, Miller stated that plans were underway to put the recommendations into effect. [62] During the month of April, relinquishment rights of tribal Indian land within Canyon de Chelly National Monument needed for road construction was obtained from Anson Bahe, an elderly Navajo woman. Berger wrote to the District 10 Grazing Committee at Chinle requesting consideration "of a problem which involves a strip of land at least fifty (50) feet wide and the length of the fenced field just east of the present Monument Headquarters." [63] Berger said that the existing fence would be removed and a new fence constructed further to the east. The approximate area needed would be one and one-fourth acres. "We urge the Grazing Committee," concluded Berger, "to consider the problem involved and to advise the party concerned to withdraw from the land, without prejudice toward the National Park Service, so the land may be used for development purposes." [64] The relinquishment agreement obtained from Anson Bahe as was follows:
Also during March, the annual Easter egg hunt was held in the Cottonwood Campground, and approximately 350 people attended. That month 1,614 visitors arrived in 372 cars. [66] In April 1959 an article on Canyon de Chelly with vivid color illustrations appeared in Arizona Highways. It outlined Canyon de Chelly's history and contained information on the various ruins. [67] Also during April and extending into May a flu epidemic struck the area. In addition to numerous Navajos, Berger, the ranger, and Guy Tso, the laborer, were afflicted. [68] In May Berger received a compilation by Edmund B. Rogers entitled "History of Legislation Relating to The National Park System Through the 82nd Congress." It contained valuable legislative material relating to Canyon de Chelly. [69] John B. Anderson, assistant project engineer, and four engineering students arrived at de Chelly in June to work on new construction projects. [70] Berger reported that the sites for the proposed visitor center, sewage lagoons, and entrance road from the monument boundary to the new parking area had been cross-sectioned and staked. [71] In addition, Anderson and his crew mapped out extensions for the electrical distribution system. [72] Although no bids had been received for this construction by July 16, a low bid was finally received for "Additions to the Electrical Distribution System" on July 21. [73] Berger pointed out to the chief, Western Office for Design and Construction, that a fence was not included around the proposed sewer lagoons. Berger considered it essential in order to protect small children as well as wandering livestock. [74] The office approved this suggestion. [75] An interesting report was filed in June by Berger summarizing the most significant events at Canyon de Chelly during the past 12 months. The following three items were listed:
Visitation for the month of July totaled 3,328 people. Many attended the interpretive talks at the campground, which covered some of the following topics: "Our National Parks and monuments," "Early Inhabitants of the Southwest," "The Navajo, Past and Present," and "Highlights of the Four Corners Area." [77] Work was also done during July on jetty building and tree planting. The Park Service and Bureau were working well together on these projects, and Berger and Boileau felt that the two Government agencies had a good relationship with the Navajos during the construction work. [78] A complaint was lodged against the Thunderbird Ranch in August by two visitors from Sweden. They complained of the accommodations, listing such items as no curtains, no hangers, and no door lock in their room. They also complained of the lack of a towel rack, the inoperativeness of both bedlamps, and bad toilet facilities. In closing, they complained of the paper thin walls and stated that
Answering this complaint, John Wade, manager of the Thunderbird, stated that curtains, hangers, and a towel rack were put in the room. He said that none of the rooms had locks, just screen door latches. The lamps were repaired, but at present, said Wade, no plans were being made to expand the toilet facilities. He concluded that "we do not plan changing the 'paper thin' walls . . . at this time." [80] Work proceeded in September on the museum exhibit plans for the proposed visitor center. These plans called for 18 exhibits in the exhibit room and lobby. [81] Also during the month "Ips" infestation was said to be almost in the epidemic stage in areas adjacent to the monument, and a 15-year-old white girl reported an assault by a Navajo boy. Investigation revealed that he tore the girl's blouse. The boy was drunk at the time and was taken by the Navajo police to the Fort Defiance jail. [82] A great deal of design and construction work began in October. Don Marley, engineer, Carl Alleman, landscape architect, Jerry Riddell, architect, and Harold Marsh, landscape architect, accomplished work on the proposed residential area related to flooding, road location, and the location of the proposed three residences. [83] They also studied a proposed campground entrance road and future campground expansion. [84] Work was also begun on the access road and parking area as well as on the water and sewage systems. The work on the electrical distribution system was about 65 percent completed; plans for laying an underground cable to the visitor center site and the residential area hinged on the road contractor's progress. [85] Zorro Bradley, archeologist, submitted a report on the major ruins toward the end of October. He was primarily taking pictures for use in the area's archeological handbook, but he also commented on the need for some stabilization work due to heavy visitor traffic. He said that David De Harport, a Harvard graduate student who had been doing archeological work at de Chelly since 1948, told him of increased vandalism and "pothunting." [86] In November De Harport was writing archeological site descriptions that were included in his Ph.D. dissertation. [87] During the same month a plane table survey was completed of the campground and the area intended for expansion and was sent to the Washington office. Another survey also mapped the "control points of the Navajo cemetery located at the foot of the hill where the Visitor Center will be located. . . ." It was also sent to Washington. [88] Berger reported in December that the total visitation for 1959 was 21,148. At the Thunderbird there had been 3,661 overnight guests during the year. Berger also reported that construction of the access road and parking area was progressing, and plans for the three new residences had been received and reviewed. [89] The annual wildlife report for 1959 revealed that during the summer two bears were killed by the Navajos in retaliation for losses of sheep. Skunks were on the increase, as were porcupines and coyotes. Rabbits, however, were on the decline due to Navajo hunting. [90] Unusually cold weather struck at the beginning of 1960 and hampered visitation and construction work. Toward the end of January Berger made some interesting comments on the interpretive services at de Chelly. He stated that all visitors who stopped and registered received orientation talks and also could partake in tours (a 12-person minimum requested) and campfire talks. There were informational and directional signs on highways leading to the monument as well as signs on all the overlooks except Tsegi Overlook. In addition, a self-guiding trail booklet was available at the White House Overlook. [91] Progress on construction of the parking area and access road to the visitor center was approximately 75 percent completed by the end of February, and the installation of water and sewage systems was about 90 percent completed. [92] Justin La Font, from Prewitt and Albuquerque, New Mexico, visited the Thunderbird Ranch in March as a possible buyer. [93] A financial report issued for the Thunderbird estimated its net worth at $98,113.50. [94] Other information revealed that the Thunderbird could accommodate 24 overnight guests each evening. [95] Also during March, Berger stated that there were no traffic counters at de Chelly because of the large amount of local Indian traffic. He also received a request from David Dornan to climb Spider Rock. [96] Berger stated that Spider Rock had previously been scaled in 1956 by a group from the Sierra Club. He refused this later request because certain "superstitions" surrounded Spider Rock, and the Navajos "in the immediate Spider Rock area are still working on the 'Spook' or 'Hex' placed upon them during the 1956 climb." [97] However Berger did record that a successful ascent of Spider Rock was made on April 13 by two other individuals from the Sierra Club. [98] The two had failed to register or to get permission for the climb. [99] On May 31 the Thunderbird Ranch was sold to La Font, who assumed ownership on June 1. [100] La Font still needed approval from the Park Service and the Navajo Tribal Council, however. He reportedly paid $110,000 for the Thunderbird. [101] Construction work was forging ahead. Bids had been received and accepted for the following: residence and bulk l.p. gas systems$60,075, completed on May 23, 1960; parking areas and access roads$85,721.12, completed on July 12, 1960; and the comfort station$11,684, completed on June 8, 1961. [102] Concern also existed over the campground road extension. Apparently a change in the plans had been suggested and the regional director, Thomas J. Allen, was against such a move. He stated that "previous plans called for extensions by constructing an additional loop to the northwest and by adding a short section of road through the center of the existing loop." He wanted to keep this scheme. [103] Furthermore, Allen stated that "although the existing Indian cemetery is not located on the drawing, it is our recollection that the road line shown for future expansion enters that restricted area." [104] Four pinon trees were removed in June from the Spider Rock area because of "Ips" infestation. [105] Also during the month a complaint was made against the physical facilities at Canyon de Chelly by J. P. Dods, who had previously visited the area in 1913. [106] Dods complained of the lack of signs, the bad roads, the bad accommodations at the Thunderbird, the bad rim road, the shabby and old cars used for canyon trips, and the disinterest of the superintendent and ranger toward him. He asked if something could be done to improve these deficiencies. "Present conditions," he said, "are a disgrace to the National Park System." [107] Berger replied to the criticism by stating that due to the construction going on at the time of Dod's visit, several things were abnormal. He said that the Thunderbird had recently purchased two Jeep station wagons that were in good condition, and apologized for any inconvenience. [108] During September Berger assisted with the Park Service exhibit at the Navajo Tribal Fair at Window Rock, Arizona. The exhibit explained the Park Service-Navajo relationship and cooperation on certain matters. Berger reported that the exhibit attracted many people. [109] An interpretation service change also occurred during September. The White House Trail pamphlets were discontinued, and in their stead, a lettered interpretive device was to be placed at the stand on White House Overlook. [110] Visitors who came to Canyon de Chelly to camp overnight could utilize the 14 tent sites or the four trailer sites. There were no water, sewer, or electrical hookups for the trailers, but there were tables, fireplaces, refuse containers, and restroom facilities. [111] Two additional reports filed in September described facilities at de Chelly. On the office porch were interpretive displays consisting of a map of the area, photographs, and instructions on "what to do and see at Canyon de Chelly National Monument." Another display contained cards and publications for sale. [112] In addition, there was the seven-panel multiplex display containing 14 exhibits on such things as geology, plant life, the early navajo country, photographs of the major ruins, campaigns and treaties, maps of the Navajo country, Navajo handicrafts, and Navajo ceremonials and sites. [113] Commenting on Berger, Regional Director Thomas J. Allen remarked that he "has a good relationship with the Navajos and officials of the Bureau of Indian Affairs." [114] The other report contained information on the physical plant, personnel, and future plans. It described the superintendent's office, a 10- by 12-foot room, as "not conducive to efficient work." The superintendent lived in the only residence, built in the 1930s, and the ranger lived in a trailer. [115] The maintenance man and a laborer, both Navajos, lived in their own homes nearby. In addition, there were comments on the new construction that would greatly improve the area. [116] The Thunderbird Ranch underwent some remodeling after its new owner, La Font, was duly authorized and accepted by the National Park Service. The front porch of the lodge was made into an office and waiting room for guests. Other changes consisted of new cement flooring and new shelving. [117] An inspection was made of the Thunderbird in September, and findings indicated that most of the operation was satisfactory, except that greater care in cleaning the meat cutting equipment and in cleaning the tables in the cafe was needed. [118] The problem of broken bottles was being solved by ordering soft drinks in cans. Also, La Font stated that he was planning to eliminate the family-style service in the lodge dining room because of a reduction in the number of overnight guests. [119] La Font still had not received permission from the Navajo Tribal Council for a concession contract, although Berger expressed satisfaction at and approval of La Font's management. [120] Finally the Navajo tribe consented to the concession contract. [121] La Font's plan of changing family-style dinners to restaurant-style dinners was approved. However, Berger was cautioned that if La Font planned new construction or structural changes at the Thunderbird, he needed the approval of the Park Service. [122] The contract contained the requirement that "the concessioner pay to the Navajo Tribe a franchise fee of 1-1/2% of gross receipts or $300, whichever is greater." [123] In November two events occurred pertaining to Indian affairs. The first concerned a search for a Hopi shrine carried out in Canyon de Chelly and Monument Canyon by Dr. Ned Danson and two Hopi Indians. The discovery of the shrine was necessary to substantiate their claim in a Hopi-Navajo lands case that was before a Federal court. The shrine was not found. [124] The other incident revolved around an Indian woman who sold a cup to a visitor for $4. This violated Park Service rules, and the cup was confiscated. It was later found to be an artifact from the 13th or 14th century. It was kept at Canyon de Chelly and later sent to the archeological center in Globe. [125] At the end of November, proposals were made for future research projects at Canyon de Chelly. Among the work was a continuation of De Harport's survey and Tse-Ta'a salvage, salvage and stabilization work at Mummy Cave, and an ecological study of the Navajos' adaption to the Canyon de Chelly region. [126] As the year ended, 20,544 visitors to de Chelly were recorded. The three new residences were completed, and the new comfort station was almost finished. [127] An agreement also was made with the Bureau to work on a hazardous section of the south rim road in Canyon de Chelly, especially because a school bus carried 60 or more children to and from school on this road. [128] Another Bureau project involved paving the road between Chinle and Canyon de Chelly. Berger believed that this would be a "very worthwhile project." [129] Two Navajo-related problems were settled at de Chelly in January 1961. The first concerned unwanted or stray dogs. Because of the appearance of several dogs in the area, it was decided that such animals would be held for a period of 5 days at the pound, and if they were not claimed within that time, they would be put to sleep. This was a policy accepted by Berger, the Bureau, and the Navajos. [130] The other problem concerned a Navajo ordinance that stated that all sanitary inspections of concession facilities within Park Service areas be done by the Navajo tribe. Since the Public Health Service conducted such inspections at de Chelly, the Navajos accepted their findings and did not conduct a separate examination. [131] Berger also reported that Canyon de Chelly had procured three FM radios: one base station and two mobiles. The radios were "obtained free of charge from excess property." Berger hoped to install the system immediately. [132] Canyon de Chelly received national recognition in an article in the February 24 issue of Life magazine. The article concerned vacation areas in the Southwest, and two pictures of Canyon de Chelly National Monument with brief descriptions were included. [133] Preliminary plans for the building of a "10 Unit Motel type building" at the Thunderbird were sent to Washington and the regional director on March 17 for approval. La Font hoped that it would be in operation in time for the busy summer months. [134] Special Easter sunrise services were held for the Chinle community at the White House Overlook on April 2. Over fifty people attended what Berger thought was "a very impressive" affair. [135] Construction of the new comfort station was virtually complete. The staking of 23 camping units for the campground expansion was under way and several trees were marked for clearing purposes. [136] An environmental health survey on de Chelly was conducted by Irving M. Terzich, National Park Service sanitary engineer, and his report contained valuable information on the facilities. Berger accompanied Terzich on his tour of the monument. Listed in this work were visitation figures from 1954 to 1961. They indicate an increase of 210 percent since 1954:
Studies were conducted on the water supply and on sewage disposal. Several recommendations were made to improve the quality of the facilities. [138] In 1961 Berger again reported the most significant events at de Chelly for the year:
Interpretive services in the form of illustrated evening programs resumed on June 10. That month, 1,220 people attended the talks, which were presented seven nights a week. Aiding in the program was Seasonal Ranger Frank L. Plettenberg. The nightly programs were:
Besides a somewhat favorable report on the decrease of "Ips" infestation, construction on the roads and camping spurs for the 23 additional camping sites was almost completed. [141] Drives, walks, and patios were also completed and paved for the three new residences. [142] An unusual flash flood occurred at de Chelly on July 21 and caused undue misery. Two vehicles were completely covered by the oncoming water, but fortunately the occupants were able to get to high ground. The vehicles were later recovered: one was salvageable while the other was a complete loss. [143] A wealth of knowledge about the proposed 15-exhibit plan for Canyon de Chelly was contained in a report submitted on July 19. The program was alloted $30,000 for construction and installation of exhibits. Each display was detailed and the titles included: "The beginnings of Pueblo Life: about A.D. 1 to 450," "Cliff Dwellings: about A.D. 1200 to 1300," "The Long Walk," and "The Navajos Today." Artifacts, photographs, and other illustrative matter were to be contained in the cases. [144] Visitation was very good during August, with 4,580 people counted. The Thunderbird Ranch had 720 overnight guests, and 437 people took jeep tours into the canyon. [145] La Font wrote Senator Carl Hayden at the end of the month describing the operation and inviting him to visit the "beautiful Canyon." More specifically, however, La Font wrote the Senator in regard to the electrical service prices. The electrical service was furnished by the Bureau at Chinle, and La Font believed the rate of 7¢ per kilowatt "exhorbitant [sic] and works a real hardship. The power bill for the preceding 12 months at the Thunderbird was $4,714.54. He hoped that the Senator would assist in trying to reduce the rate. [146] Stabilization work was done by Roland Richert and Joel Shiner at Mummy Cave in September. Aiding them in their work were eight Navajo laborers. Their work included repair of breaks at the base and of the walls and ceiling. When they left, they said that another season was needed to finish up. [147] A report on the major ruins at Canyon de Chelly was made by Regional Archeologist Charlie Steen at the end of September. He commented on the erosion and subsequent repairs needed at Mummy Cave, White House, and Antelope House. [148] As the year ended, the Park Service presented a series of 15 programs that were filmed in National Park Service areas. These were shown on television stations throughout the United States and were included in the "What's New" series on the National Education Television Network. Included among the programs was "Navajo Life at Canyon de Chelly National Monument." [149] Berger received a letter from the director of special projects concerning the Canyon de Chelly program, which he felt was "one of the very finest in the series. . . ." [150] Berger received authorization at the beginning of February 1962 to use frequency 32.02 MC/S for his two mobile units. The call signs assigned were KB7898 and KB7899, and Berger was asked to supply the license numbers of the vehicles that would be using these numbers. [151] Supervisory Ranger Homer A. Robinson began installing the radio equipment in the ranger vehicles, having already installed the base station at the administration building. [152] In order to assure success in acquiring specimens for the proposed museum exhibits, Berger was advised to make a list of the items already at Canyon de Chelly. In addition, he was asked to
The Navajo Tribal Council adopted a set of regulations pertaining to trailer parking on the Navajo Reservation, which would be effective on December 21, 1961. Berger surmised that
Navajos also reported the killing of sheep by black bears, although no one on the de Chelly staff had seen any. The Navajo Tribal Park Service and a Government trapper hunted unsuccessfully for the animals. Another incident involved an Indian killing a beaver, which was a violation of regulations. The tribal ranger prosecuted the case, and the Indian received a $25 fine. [155] Berger reported in May that the Navajo Tribal Utility Authority of Window Rock was going to furnish electricity to the Chinle Subagency. This was to be done by July 1 or sooner. Berger said that "at that time the Chinle Sub-agency generating plant will cease operations and Canyon de Chelly will be furnished electricity by NTUA." [156] In addition, the Utility Authority planned
The Utility Authority rate schedule for power at Chinle had not yet been approved by the Bureau, but Berger said that he had been "assured by NTUA officials that it will be considerable [sic] less than we are presently paying to the Bureau of Indian affairs, Chinle." The proposed rate was estimated at .04 per kilowatt-hour. [158] The contract was signed on June 6, 1962, and the minimum charge was $3 per month per meter installation. [159] As a result, Berger observed that "electric power supply is greatly improved at the Monument." [160] The Thunderbird requested that the Utility Authority install two streetlights as a preventive of vandalism and as a safety factor. [161] Berger conveyed this request to the regional director, and also included an appeal from Ray and Bessie Martin, Navajos, to connect their home to the power line at the Thunderbird Ranch. [162] Berger was informed that La Font could install the two lights and that "the alignment proposed for carrying power to the Ray and Bessie Martin quarters appears satisfactory." [163] A "Land Use Permit " was issued to the Martins for their hookup. [164] The Utility Authority, after many petitions and requests from residents living near the Canyon del Muerto community, extended electrical service to that area. [165] It would supply a 14,440-volt transmission, which would cross the wash "between the Garcia Trading Post and the Presbyterian Mission," a distance of approximately 1,090 feet. Berger stated that
After a flood in Canyon del Muerto destroyed an irrigation structure above Twin Trails, the Navajos requested that the structure be repaired. The cost was estimated at $900, and local Navajos were to be employed as workers. [167] On September 9, Philleo Nash, Commissioner of Indian Affairs, arrived in Chinle. He was to tour Canyon de Chelly and inspect the Chinle Boarding school, the Compound, and the Subagency area. He never got to de Chelly, because he was "hauled to the Chapter House by the local Chapter President." This meeting lasted until 5:10 P.M., and Nash was due at Gray Mountain, 200 miles away, at 7:30. [168] At the meeting, the question of returning Canyon de Chelly to the Navajos was brought up. Nash responded with the following remarks:
Berger concluded that "Commissioner Nash was friendly, patient, and cooperative during the entire day, but did not seem to be entirely in sympathy with the proceedings. The meeting was arranged by the Navajo Tribal Officials with the Bureau personnel as advisors and escorts." [170] Nash requested information about Canyon de Chelly from Berger, "the Monument Concessions Contractor, and others with knowledge of the monument and the canyon." [171] His first question concerned the concessions contract at de Chelly and how it related to the Navajos. They were to receive 1-1/2 percent of the gross income and were to be employed "whenever possible." During the peak of 1962, 19 Navajos were employed out of a total of 27 employees. During September, 14 of the 21 employees were Navajos, of whom 3 worked at the trading post, 9 worked in the lodge and cafe, and 2 were drivers of the guided tours into the canyon. It was further reported that the Park Service employed 6 Navajos out of a total force of 12 employees at the monument. [172] Concerning the Navajo right to rent horses for canyon rides, figures showed that five Navajos rented horses to tourists during the 1962 season. Their maximum income from one day's rental of horses was approximately $50. [173] Finally, the last bit of information requested by Nash concerned domestic water development. There was no restriction on Navajos drilling wells for domestic water. However, the Park Service furnished about 75,000 gallons of free water monthly to Navajo families in the canyon area. [174] On December 14, 1962, Meredith Guillet was assigned to Canyon de Chelly as assistant superintendent. His main duty was to handle Navajo affairs. The reasoning behind such an appointment was as follows:
A fire hazard inspection was held on June 7 by Supervisory Park Ranger Roy G. Rainey and Seasonal Ranger Larry Thomas. Most of the buildings were found to be satisfactory, but some had substandard wiring. [176] Berger, in order to improve the slide collection at de Chelly, wrote to the Southwestern Monuments Association for new slides on various national parks and monuments in Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona. They were to be used in the evening campfire programs. [177] In July Berger received 97 slides free of charge from the association, and five more were promised at a later date. [178] Besides acquiring new slides, Berger received a request from Yellowstone National Park for slides on Canyon de Chelly. [179] Berger supplied two slides with a synopsis of each one. The first slide was of White House and was accompanied by information on its history. The other slide was a fall scene at Canyon de Chelly and emphasized the fall colors and the Navajos living in the canyon. [180] Canyon de Chelly received recognition in an article entitled "After Six Centuries of Silence: Life Again In Mummy Cave." The article was written by Richard Dunlop and appeared in the August 1962 issue of Popular Mechanics. [181] Dunlop was sent by the magazine to join Archeologists Richert and Shiner and their Navajo crew, who were undertaking stabilization work at Mummy Cave. Besides providing excellent pictures of the work being done there, Dunlop presented information on Canyon de Chelly's history. La Font opened his new 10-unit motel at the Thunderbird on July 15. Each of the new units contained two double beds. [182] Apparently the new operation was very successful, because La Font was planning to construct a 12-unit motel for the 1963 season. [183] Canyon de Chelly was included in the NPS Billionth Visitor Day observance on August 22. The plan was to select simultaneously, at precisely 12:35 P.M., the billionth visitor to the 192 areas administered by the National Park Service. Berger explained
The fortunate visitor was Perry White and his family from Bluewater, New Mexico. White was taken on a personally conducted tour of Canyon de Chelly, entertained at the Thunderbird Lodge, and presented a certificate "naming him as the one selected to represent CANYON DE CHELLY NATIONAL MONUMENT on this occasion" at a special evening program. [185] A question arose over the exclusion of the Adahoonligii, the Navajo-language newspaper, from one of the planned museum exhibits entitled "The Navajos Today." Because it was no longer published, having been superceded by the English-language Navajo Times, and because it really did not tie in with the theme of the exhibit, it was eliminated from consideration. [186] Berger submitted a report in December about picnicking at Canyon de Chelly. He viewed it as an "important activity due to the lack of eating establishments in the general area." [187] Picnickers consisted of whites and Navajos in family parties and organized groups. Berger stated that 75 percent of the picnickers were local and 25 percent were visitors. In addition, Berger said that there were special areas at the headquarter's campground (six tables and water) and near Spider Rock Overlook (six tables, fireplaces, and restrooms) for picnicking. There was no real policy regarding picnicking activities at de Chelly, although campers and picnickers were segregated. [188] One of the major incidents, besides one of the most unfortunate, of 1962 was a dispute that arose between Superintendent Berger and David De Harport, who was working for the Navajo tribe at the time. It lasted for over 6 months, and a large amount of correspondence was exchanged between the parties involved. De Harport received from Director Edward B. Danson of the Museum of Northern Arizona a permit to do work under their auspices at Canyon de Chelly. [189] He then wrote to Berger notifying him of the permit. [190] The permit was "a non-exclusive departmental permit for calendar year 1962" for "archeological and paleontological research, excavation, and collecting on Interior Department lands in all of Mohave, Yavapai, Coconino, Navajo, and Apache Counties, Arizona and portions of San Juan, Kane, and Garfield Counties, Utah, along the Colorado River and the San Juan and southern tributaries." [191] However, before work could be started by one holding such a permit, advance approval from the superintendent of the area was required relative to:
This was the crux of the dispute. Even though Berger received word that De Harport was working under such a permit, apparently De Harport did not in the beginning submit the required prerequisites for such work. Also, De Harport needed to have some type of titular appointment that connected him officially with the museum. [193] Moreover, De Harport wrote Dr. Bryant Bannister at the University of Arizona requesting him to write Berger authorizing De Harport to do some dendrochronological work. [194] This was done. Berger's reply, however, stated that De Harport had to get a special collecting permit which he did not have. If he got such a permit, said Berger, he could do the work. "Any work that Deharport [sic] does in the Canyon," declared Berger, "other than as a regular Monument visitor, is without permission and is unauthorized." [195] Berger apparently was under pressure to allow De Harport to do the work anyway. The assistant regional director wrote him and said he should allow De Harport to do his work because cooperation of the Park Service "with both the Navajo Tribe and the Museum of Northern Arizona is obviously essential." [196] He asked Berger to justify his "reluctance" in not letting De Harport do his field work and "if necessary" to include a "confidential memorandum outlining any background factors causing your opposition." [197] Berger's reply was as follows:
Berger said that he had tried to cooperate with De Harport and would continue to do so. However, De Harport had not classified the scope and purpose of his work as required by the permit issued to him. [199] In the meantime, De Harport apparently believed everything was all right and wrote Berger that he would be at Canyon de Chelly to begin work. [200] Berger, however, refused to allow him to commence activities, and De Harport later wrote Berger that he was sorry that he "left the impression of being hostile to the U.S. National Park Service," apparently the result of trouble between the two men over this incident. [201] De Harport, towards the end of July, brought up the issue of illegal excavation activities by pothunters at de Chelly. [202] The only mention of this dispute in the superintendent's monthly reports appeared in July, when Berger wrote:
Pursuant to this charge of illegal excavations, the regional chief advised an archeologist to go immediately to Canyon de Chelly and see if "unauthorized collecting or digging" was going on. [204] Reports later submitted, on the whole, discredited De Harport's charges. Archeologist Albert H. Schroeder found one site that was "hit hard" by vandalism. [205] Other reports were less favorable to De Harport's claim. Regional Archeologist Charlie R. Steen stated that although De Harport reported vandalism at a half dozen sites, the damage was of a minor nature. De Harport's report of large-scale digging at Duck Rock Site was also disproved. Steen did admit there was frequent illicit digging at de Chelly, but doubted if any "large groups of pottery or other materials" were taken from the canyons. In concluding his report, Steen said "I am fairly confident, however, that no consistent or large scale pot hunting is going on within the Monument." [206] A similar report was submitted by the regional chief of ranger services who contended that "it was apparent to me that Mr. De Harport had 'an axe to grind' and at times was abusive in his contacts with Superintendent Berger." [207] In defense of De Harport's accusations of pothunting, which may or may not have been part of a personal vendetta against Berger, there was pothunting going on, although perhaps not on the scale that he suggested. Personal inquiries by the authors indicate this to be true. [208] Meanwhile, De Harport was still trying to get approval to conduct his work at de Chelly. Danson wrote him in August about his appointment as a research associate of the Museum of Northern Arizona. He also approved of his wish to photograph, draw plans, make sherd collections, and collect wood for Bannister. Danson hoped that De Harport would "inform Superintendent Berger of your presence on the Monument and tell him when you plan to work there and where you will be going." [209] De Harport then wrote the assistant regional director. He stated the above information and presumed that Berger had been notified. He stated:
The assistant regional director responded that he was pleased to hear of his appointment and work proposals. However, Miller stated that De Harport had to secure "the approval of the Superintendent, in advance, as to the scope of any work proposed within a National Park Service area, not merely notifying him as to when and where you propose to work." [211] De Harport, however, did not heed this procedure and repeatedly wrote to Berger for permission. [212] Finally, the regional chief wrote De Harport, spelling out what he had to do and reiterating that a simple notification was not enough. De Harport was advised to write a prospectus "as to the scope and manner of your field work," and to submit it beforehand to Berger. The regional chief was "baffled" as to why De Harport had not done this. [213] De Harport saw the light and sent a detailed prospectus to Berger on September 10. He concluded that "it is offered to satisfy any administrative requirements for formal issuance of a permit to work in the area." [214] By October 15 De Harport still had not received the "go ahead" from Berger. De Harport wrote Berger, stating that "I have complied with all legal requirements for the issuance of a permit" and wondering where the approval was. [215] He also stated that he had made several unsuccessful attempts to meet with Berger personally at Canyon de Chelly. He declared:
The approval was finally mailed by Berger on November 28. The permit expired at the end of December. Berger advised De Harport to report when he entered and left the canyons as a safety measure and also in order to "advise others of your work when they report seeing activity at any of the ruins." [217] The hostile feelings did not subside. On December 2 De Harport declared to Berger that
Moreover, De Harport again wrote a report on illegal excavating at Canyon de Chelly and submitted it to the tribal lawyers. [219] Thus, the De Harport-Berger controversy was apparently a clash of personalities and misunderstandings. The actions of both men caused considerable headaches for others indirectly involved. Who was to blame? Perhaps they both were guilty. In sum, an overview of the Berger years at Canyon de Chelly reveals a growing alienation between the Park Service and the Navajos. Examples are indeed numerous: the meeting in Santa Fe of Berger, White, and Guillet to study Park Service/Navajo relations; the request made to Commissioner Nash by the Navajos to have Canyon de Chelly returned to them; and alleged vandalism and pothunting activities. Moreover, the Navajos were probably upset over encroachments on their sacred landsthe ascents of Spider Rock and the possibilities of a road passing through their cemetery. One of their greatest fears was their potential loss of the entire area due to Park Service expansion during these years. A prime example of this was the Anson Bahe case. The situation was extremely critical and needed rectifying. [220] These accusations must be viewed with some suspicion because they come from people who disliked him, but at the same time they were first hand observers. Comments by others who may have received part of their information second-hand, but who were close enough to be considered well-informed, allege that he did allow the bulldozing of the Navajo cemetery near headquarters and that the interpretive programs declined drastically in quality under his administration. None of these allegations can be documented in sources that the writers have examined, but it is apparent that Berger did fail to maintain good relations with the Navajos. Whether this was merely because he tried too zealously to perform his duties without regard for consequences, or because he lacked tolerance and understanding of a people different from himself, he was quite obviously the wrong man in the wrong place at the wrong time.
cach/adhi/chap8.htm Last Updated: 08-Mar-2004 |