KLONDIKE GOLD RUSH Hikers on the Chilkoot Trail: A Descriptive Report

The following is a sample of the comments written by those Chilkoot hikers who filled-out a questionnaire.

"This was my first hike. I choose to be brief in my comments, because I am a novice. The trail is for a more experienced hiker, however, I enjoyed my experience, and will never forget the trip. The difficulty of the hike was part of its charm. For me, it was definitely, man against nature, a difficult but rewarding task. The trail was as difficult as it was beautiful!"

"Please do not encourage the use of the trail by novices by constantly making it easier, e.g., building more cabins, etc. Many of those we met on the trail had absolutely no backpacking experience and depended on finding an empty cabin to sleep in. This is most unrealistic. Those hiking the trail should be self-sufficient and competent in functioning under the conditions the trail and the weather demand."

"The Chilkoot has always been and should always remain a strenuous, demanding challenge—to do any less demeans the past. Allow future generations to at least get a small feel of what those brave folks went through—by getting blisters getting wet, getting sore and even fearing they're lost or fearing to meet bears or fearing themselves. Only by facing and meeting such challenges can growth occur. And in our modern, insulated, air conditioned world there's too few places to meet those challenges. Leave Pioneer Square for the tour group tourists, Skagway for the Winnebago set, and the trail for those who are physically and mentally prepared to meet it as it was in 1898—not tramwayed and corduroyed to death. Keep it simple."

"Amazing how easily information is shared and how fast it travels. Too bad we don't communicate that well all of the time."

"Had no idea it was such a scenic hike. Crater Lake and the chain of other lakes are magnificent. More emphasis should be placed on the difficulty of the Chilkoot Pass itself, and the dangers in bad weather. Saw young hikers with only jogging shoes on. More check out of equipment by someone. Hikers can get into trouble by competing to see how fast they can do the hike. Four to five days is more like it even for experienced hikers. Have not seen such stiff competition on the trails since the John Muir Trail. Everyone should leave competition at home on this hike or competition could injure a lot of people. Most people don't stop long enough to enjoy all this or are careful enough.

The historical relics will probably all disappear in a couple years. Those that can be carried out, will be, piece by piece! Just like in the petrified forests in Arizona. A customs inspection at Bennett and Dyea of packs and personables would not be out of order at all. Education of the hiker must begin at the trailheads. How about a program of orientation for those planning to hike the pass. The more commercial advertising that is done about the trail, the more overrun it will become. This place is really a crown jewel. Protect it, don't advertise it too much.

The area seems like it can take a high impact of hikers. The historical relics preservation should be No. 1 right now in any organization's efforts on the trail's behalf. An outdoor museum it must remain.

"It's an excellent hike in terms of scenery, physical challenge, and sense of participation in something of value. Some measures may be necessary to prevent damage to the alpine areas on the Canadian side, i.e., camping only in designated areas. I personally chafe at restrictions but willingly abide by environmentally protective measures. Party size should be limited here as well as in any wilderness area. Common sense dictates this. I never expected the Chilkoot to be a wilderness experience in terms of isolation—I can go elsewhere for that—so was ready to enjoy the shelters and meeting other hikers.

Ranger talks might be appropriate at Skagway or Dyea or perhaps Lindemen, but the idea of Mr. Ranger marching into the cabin at Sheep Camp with a prepared talk seems a bit out of place. Hopefully, the rangers assigned there will always be knowledgeable and interested in answering questions.

All in all, NPS is doing a good job in Alaska, much better than the lower '48 (witness Yosemite, Yellowstone). I hope the policy of minimal development, least amount of environmental impact, and low-key management continues despite economic pressures to the contrary."

"It is my contention that the Chilkoot, unlike most other trails, should be considered and used as an historic trail, in an historic fashion. In this regard I am in favor, in this unique case, of having interpretive signs, and allowing horses to be used on the trail. Perhaps two trails could be provided so that hikers need not compete with equestrians. Both trails should adhere as closely as possible to the original trail (certainly horses today could not possibly cause as much "damage," meaning change, as they did when 30,000 men made several shuttle trips over the trail with their ton of gear and supplies).

On the subject of 'fireside talks,' the Rangers are available for questions and information at present—signs help—and an unlimited number of books are available on the subject of the stampede—I think that 'talks' would intrude on the privacy of those who don't want to hear them, and would be unnecessary burden on the Rangers now present. If more Rangers are to be hired, then more wages will have to be paid and I think the money can be better used for restoration and preservation.

A tramway would not be an historic tramway, as safety regulations, etc. have multiplied and made the building of such a device much more complicated. I do not wish to see a modern chairlift or aerial streetcar in lieu of the bailing-wire operation which existed in '98."

"Perhaps the Park Service might establish seasonal visitor centers at both ends of the trail—at Dyea and Lake Bennett. Centers could have historical display and slide show/movie. Perhaps limited visitor accommodations could be provided at Bennett along with a small visitor center,—say, tent shelters similar to ranger tents at Sheep Camp or perhaps campsites. Thus, those unable to hike the trail might experience a bit of it by spending time at both ends. At present, Bennett is largely inaccessible to anyone but backpackers."

"We enjoyed the trail immensely and hope that increased use does not bring too many changes. I would not recommend upgrading trail conditions, bridges, shelters, etc., except perhaps to add a shelter on the Canadian side of the pass. I would not recommend the trail be taken by inexperienced hikers unless accompanied by someone with experience. It was a challenging and exciting experience, definitely not a casual wilderness stroll."

"Hiking the that I have had. on the trail for Chilkoot Trail was one of the most exciting and incredible experiences I will have many fond memories of it and of the varied people I met a long, long time.

I feel closer to our forefathers and the land after experiencing some of their experiences. For others to enjoy the flavor and history of the Chilkoot, it should be left as much as it was but some improvements should be made for the safety of others—especially a larger, warm cabin at the Summit. More rangers are necessary and some reliable method of knowing who is on the trail and where.

It was comforting to know that the rangers were there and would know if and when we got over the pass. I like the idea that each evening they came up to the cabin to visit with all the people."

"I feel little done is best, but to make the trail more difficult (primitive) is absurd, it is for humans living in a technological civilization with ripstop nylon and vibram soles and dacron, and an improved trail is equally absurd. Provide safe and walkable trails, routed through least buggy, etc. areas, well-marked for rain and fog, and a rest cabin, just about where Canadian A-frame is. More public information about specific difficulties to be encountered.... That seemingly aimless meandering trail at Lindeman Lake up over a hill and down, we all found depressing (13 people). I strongly suggest returning the trail around the lake. Who says this other was the real one, anyway! After difficult ascent, beautiful country next ten miles, it's a drag to end the hike on such a boring endeavor as the last four-five hours were for us."

"Really enjoyed all the stops, especially the company of those in residence. A good human relationships experience.

"It really disturbs me to see so many valuable (in terms of educational value), and in some cases, beautiful objects (old stoves, bottles) deteriorating, being destroyed, etc., with none of them being preserved for those who'll come this way 80 more years from now."

"I went with the intention of getting away from big crowds and to enjoy the quiet and peaceful outdoors, but was put off from the beginning when a huge group of rowdy teenagers were on the trail, doing upsetting things as dumping garbage. They slowed us up."

"Until hikers on the trail reach the limit of the human chain of '98, I believe there is no need to limit the number of hikers. It was very enjoyable to meet and chat with people wherever we met and whomever we met."

"This area will be swarming in two years if shelters are not done away with."

"Don't like to hike with so many people on the trail but didn't mind as it was so beautiful."

"I was amazed at how many people I met on the trail as compared to two years ago. I hope the trail maintains its very beautiful way even though it has so many hikers."

"I've met many people since who did it at the same time as I but I rarely ever saw anyone except at Campsites."

"I feel I missed many things I heard about but I don't know how much has been carried off. I also felt at the same time that many things had been set out to be seen which ruined the sense of discovery."

"My sister and I joined a single guy and a group of two women and started the trail (spur of the moment). We discussed the history among ourselves looking at some books we bought in Skagway."

"I enjoyed the trail because of the backcountry nature—the historic side was of little interest to me."

"The Chilkoot trail is a unique hiking and historical experience. You live history as you walk. Don't spoil it by making it too easy. Except for necessary maintenance and the preservation of historical objects, leave it as is.

"Please do not reconstruct the tramway or rebuild the abandoned relics along the trail. These landmarks could never be constructed to give actual experiences of the '98 trail to the modern hiker unless the trail was turned into a winter hike. Also, if these were rebuilt, one would lose the feeling of the harshness of the elements.... when I saw a worn, disintegrated shoe, I had a direct experience of the crazy gold rush and the elemental fight with nature."

"The main thing I like is the way you go from rain forest to desert in 33 miles."

"Although my reasons for hiking the trail were originally non-historical, I am now very interested (almost enchanted) by this facet. I hold the history of this trail as extremely important."

"I thank all the thousands of hikers before me that left the old bottles, cans, shoes, and 'artifacts' in place along the trail for me to discover as if I were the first one to pass in the stampeders' wake."

"My feelings are quite negative about the entire hike on the Chilkoot, not the trail itself or the landforms, but the overdoneness of it all—overhiked, overpopular. The information I had—i.e., booklet—I found inadequate. I was poorly prepared for the hike psychologically and I wasn't in pace with the people I had hiked with. The culmination of unfavorable weather and the pressure of time to complete the hike aggravated the entire situation. Next time there will be topographical maps, lots of little side trips, and plenty of time for inclement weather or exploration or both, and no pack dogs along!"

"We were pleased to meet such interesting people who still prefer hiking to traveling in cars. The hikers were excellent company, very helpful, and cooperative."

"Really enjoyed the shelters—they provided a chance to meet and talk with other hikers."

"It will become necessary to do more preservation before some artifacts are lost forever, however, that will give the trail a sense of permanence that the stampede itself did not have."

"Hiking the Chilkoot Trail represents a move towards freedom, individuality. The fewer regulations and rules burdening the spirit the more fulfilling the experience can be. Keep them truly appropriate."

"I would very much like a brochure which had copies of the pictures and commentaries—best interpretive signs I've seen in any U.S. park."

"The Chilkoot was a very satisfying experience for me. The exposure to its varied terrain, climate and condition, all on the same trail within a period of a few days, made It a complete Alaskan adventure I would not have enjoyed the experience, however, had there been 'formal' campsites with firegrates, restored tram and buildings, the typical multitude of 'cutesy' wooden signs or any of the other features normally associated with areas that have Park status. I came all the way to Alaska to avoid just that situation.

The current status of the Chilkoot is unclear to me, but I understand it has gained some type of Park status during this past summer. I find that unfortunate. It raises visions of Yellowstone in my mind, a beautiful country exploited for its tourist appeal, 'improved' to the point that wilderness adventurers no longer include it on their lists. It raises visions of Glacier, the last holdout of the National Park System against the 'motor-home camping' crowd, that now has designated wilderness camping sites on a reservation basis...

My pessimism Is unbounded.... I have seen little in the past of our National Parks to temper it.

I would like to revisit the Chilkoot someday and find it as little changed as possible. If park status will preserve it in its current state, rather than 'improving' it, I would be amazed, but pleased...."

"First off, I am quite satisfied with the trail, as is. It is primitive enough and rugged enough to my liking. The number of picture signs was right. I really disagree with having signs and markups everywhere, reminding you that you're in a park. The scenery can be appreciated just as well without them. For this very reason, I am skeptical of the area becoming a national park. To me, national parks equal lots of facilities and conveniences; with these come lots of people. I know many hikers travel the trail already, but (being early in the season) that isn't really apparent to me. The trail is well-worn but I still gained a fantastic sense of isolation walking through these mountains. It would be a shame to destroy that with too many signs, facilities, and rangers giving talks in the evening.

It is my belief that the Chilkoot Trail is of great value, historically and scenically. The walk itself is strenuous and sometimes even treacherous—that is the way it should be to give hikers an approximation of what the goldseekers went through to get to the Klondike. At times, on the path I felt that I, too, was striving for some unknown destiny. It's a great way to relive the past. The beauty of the area is astounding. I would like to return in several years and find things the same.

One suggestion: except for the pass itself, I had no idea of the terrain and ruggedness of the trail prior to walking it. I liked it that way, but some people might come unprepared. It might be a good idea to give a warning at either trail head as to the difficulty of the trail."

"General information I had on Chilkoot Trail emphasized difficulty and historical. Neither were accurate. The most impressive thing to me was the walk from the Summit to Lindeman. It was one of the more beautiful walks I have ever taken. The cairns and markers were unobtrusive and sufficient. The contrast of terrain was impressive."

"My biggest complaint, if there is one, is that I was unable to obtain Information about the trail regarding its relative difficulty and appropriateness, particularly for our children, ages seven, nine, 11 and 13. Had I known what an ordeal miles 15 to 17 presented, I would never have put the younger two children through it. It would not have (never) been as bad in good weather, but one can't count on that, of course."

"I found your questions concerning management of the trail difficult to answer because I see the issue from both the vantage points of a southerner interested in public recreational areas (from which background I come originally) and of a Yukoner for whom the trail is part of a vast 'backyard.' I am in favor of trail management and the restrictions that this sometimes necessarily entails, and at the same time, feel the 'pinch' on the relative freedom.

I presently enjoy to roam unrestricted. For example, in our party (all Yukon residents) were two native-born Yukoners, both of whom have travelled in the bush since birth. When we arrived on the Canadian side of the summit and were faced with "No fires" regulations, their reactions were typical of northerners who have been geared all their lives to wilderness survival—'if I am cold, and there's wood available, I'll build a fire'—rather than opting to boil water for a hot drink, or to climb into a sleeping bag, put on extra sweaters, etc. That Is the way they have always dealt with such a situation, and being so surrounded by wilderness as they are, had great difficulty accepting that there might be a need for such restrictions, i.e. wilderness management.

Presumably, such differences of viewpoint are encountered between 'park officials' and local residents whenever a new park is being established. Don't neglect keeping us informed, as this area is very accessible to us and presently not so easily accessible to southern hiking clubs, etc., so we are potentially the 'worst offenders' where ignoring management policies is concerned."

"Personally, I'd like to see the trail remain much as it is—somewhat 'out of the way.' I wouldn't like to see it become a thoroughfare, the popular trail to hike of every backpacking club. On this line, I'd like to see the amenities (e.g., shelters, picnic tables, outhouses, etc.) remain as few in number and as rough in style as possible. (Would like to see a shelter between Sheep Camp and Lindeman primarily for safety reasons—it might even be a lean-to; and would also like to see, if not permanent fireplaces, the watchful eyes of the rangers on the fire pits being built at the campsites along the trail, both for safety, and so that there isn't a new fire pit being built with every passing group of hikers!)

For me, the trail is primarily of historical interest—so naturally, that's the focus I'd like to see maintained. I don't know what to suggest for preserving the historical sites and artifacts—probably that at least some structures should be rebuilt or restored with artifacts on display—perhaps as Sheep Camp and/or Lindeman where they could be under the watchful eyes of the ranger (marvelous people, those rangers! Isn't it amazing how they're able to see all, know all the answers, be everywhere at once, etc., etc.!). Please let's not have 'evening interpretive programs' laid on—rather let the trail, artifacts photographs and signs speak for themselves. Surely there is enough there to prompt those genuinely interested to rush home to their local library, book store, history professor, 'oldtimers,' etc. (Evening interpretive programs sound like television to me!)"

"All too often people start out mentally unprepared for the trail. Earlier in this survey you asked If the NPS should allow people 'physically unable' to hike the trail. I would offer the thought that it is very often the rather 'ill-equipped' and 'healthy ones' that have 'trouble,' but trouble—more of an inner sort. The trail is demanding; the route Is still quite difficult in the respect that it is long, and in some places not that terribly improved...and the lovely weather of our fair area can cause even those who are 'prepared' to wish they had brought plexiglass coveralls and umbrellas. Depression about being wet, cold, far from shelter (and the end of the trip), chilled by the wind, unable to see the 'spectacular scenery' that everyone told you you'd see, plus the continual up-up-up and the idea that you still have to pass the Scales somewhere up there can break down even hearty people. That, too, is a 'relic' of the stampede. A friend told me that five years ago he hiked the trail and spent the night with 18-some people at Sheep Camp. None had even hiked the pass; there were no rangers or guide books or signs or mile markers. Some of them told of warnings from other travelers about huge icefalls they would have to cross, sheet-blue glaciers, and sheer cliffs of snow. One said that Whitehorse was on the other side of the pass, about 'three miles' over the top. All were a bit scared at the next days trip, and slept fitfully.

On my trip I passed a troop of Girl Scouts (34 of them or so) who were making about 3/4 of a mile, then stopping for one hour or so to rest, then moving on. Many were complaining and tired already (second day out, just above Canyon City at 2:30 PM!) And although I laughed, I knew that Doug and Phil (rangers) would be at Sheep Camp to meet them, extend their famous 'Sheep Camp Hospitality,' and protect them over the scales the next day. The horrors of my friend's walk five years back had been dispelled by information, and now even 34 little girls could take on the Pass with assurance of getting over alas right. For that alone, the new Park is worth every bit of the wait."

"I feel research is certainly worthwhile, because people hiking this trail should have more than someone sitting in a Parks Canada Office, who has not been there. I hope that not many hikers complained too much because I noticed while hiking that some hikers seemed as though they came straight out of the city and therefore unprepared for this hike, not just physically but equipment-wise also.

I have hiked the Chilkoot Trail twice and I would certainly love the experience again.

It is my hope that the Chilkoot will remain basically hate to go back in a few years and see it changed. I feel changes. Once the trail is made more easy, then it starts who truly enjoy a challenging hike, but people who are out the same, because I would there is no need for major to attract not the people to do an easy hike.

The Chilkoot is special because though it is famous historically, it lacks the commercialism of hikes in Canada's other parks, for example, the Banff and Lake Louise area. I really hope this beautiful trail escapes any commercialism or major improvements because then it will lose it's wilderness appeal and become a retreat for city people who may expect a little restaurant on top of the pass, etc.

I hope your survey has some impact on the Parks Board, because hikers" opinions should be valued. I hope that you didn't receive too many complaints from angry hikers, because they are the ones who shouldn't have done it in the first place.""

"Most people hurry through the trip too fast. My first trip in 1974 was three and one-half days. I was pushed too much, did not get to see enough, and was physically tired. This trip, however, I enjoyed my six days very very much. Saw lots more. Enjoyed the scenery. Loved the gab sessions around the fire at night."

"Would not recommend more historical markers. A balance must be maintained between the effort to describe the historical importance of the trail and the beauty of the backcountry. Historical interpretation can create its own clutter—historical pollution."

"We would like to see the trail preserved pretty much as it was, which almost has to mean the natural inaccessibility and/or some restrictions will be needed as a crowd control. Preserving the historical debris will take the wisdom of a Solomon. Perhaps some kind of orientation or reservation system in Skagway or Dyea, which would also give some control of inexperienced and ill-equipped hikers.

As indicated earlier, I believe there is a problem between Sheep Camp and Lindeman City of distance, difficulty and fatigue. We had good weather, but sudden bad weather and some danger seems evident. Perhaps trail markers for safety, distance markers for good judgement, and some sort of half-way shelter for fatigue and emergency seem called for. Also more than one or two rangers seems wise.

You didn't ask, but maybe you should know not all your hikers are between 18 and 35, but between five and heaven knows. We were a party of seven, average age 50 years, loved every minute of it even though we had an accident of one member breaking his ribs. We were as proud as punch of ourselves and count that hike as one of the important and fantastic events of our lives. It was beautiful."

"The trail was a good but grueling experience for me—I spent much time alone but did meet up with other hikers for company and encouragement at times. I would not go from Sheep Camp to Lindeman in one day again unless I was in better shape. The rangers were friendly and helpful—going out of their way in fact to help transport my heavy pack for a while.

I suppose with time, publicity and continued interest in Alaska, more people will hike this trail. I don't think more shelters should be built for this reason—people should know that the shelters might be full and that a tent is necessary. But all the shelters should be mentioned in any park pamphlet and these should be 'kept' in good shape. The broken window and faulty stove at Canyon City were discouraging although I know they take time to repair. The bits and pieces of garbage at the shelter were discouraging too. But now I think people have to remember that no one will clean up after them. Maybe toilet paper would be nice in the outhouses.

I don't think people should be encouraged to hike from Sheep Camp to Lindeman though many probably will. Perhaps the park folder should break up the trail sections differently.

The trail between the Summit and the wagon road (Canada) was not always well marked—I think more cairns are in order.

Written material should state that it is okay to walk across the snow in places—what I've read discourages that—yet its the best and only route in some places.

The mile markers aren't necessary on the American side but I don't object to them—I don't think they're needed every one-half mile—perhaps just every mile or two miles. That will help to emphasize the difficulty of this trail.

Perhaps most of the bridges should be left to fall down (except in necessary places). Any material on the trail should mention some streams should be forded.

The Chilkoot was a difficult trail historically—I think it's best 'preserved' In that state. Much of it reminds me of good 'abandoned' trails I have hiked. I would stress to anyone that this is a difficult trail requiring time—if it seems shorter and easier to hikers, then that will be a good surprise. My only complaint is about the trail on the Canadian side of the pass to the wagon route. Otherwise, liked the Canadian side of the trail the best.

Another way to 'limit' trail use a little is not to have any formal access from Skagway. If someone has to hike or hitch out, it will emphasize the wilderness approach.

I was impressed by the total Chilkoot experience. There is no question that the use of the trail will increase at an accelerated rate now that it is a park. Controls to manage this use should be developed slowly applying only enough regulation to accomplish management objectives. These objectives should be developed as soon as is possible.

I am against shelters in principle, but feel there may be some justification for shelters until the travel Increases to a point where reservations are necessary. I have mixed feelings on one on the Canadian side of the pass. I don't think there is a need for a shelter for scheduled overnight stays, but if the weather gets as tough on occasion as some people claim, maybe some kind of emergency refuge would be in order."