Mesa Verde Administrative History

A. Under the Ute Indian Agency

Prior to fiscal year 1907 no appropriation was made for Mesa Verde National Park, and for administrative purposes, it became necessary to designate the Superintendent of the Southern Ute Indian Training and Industrial School at Ignacio, Colorado, as Acting Superintendent of the park. William D. Leonard, Superintendent in charge of the Southern Ute Agency, was designated for the position on October 8, 1906. [1]

Leonard received orders to use all possible measures for the protection and preservation of the ruins, relics, buildings and other evidences of ancient civilizations located in the park.

As instructed, he visited the park in October to examine the general conditions of the area, determine what necessary work would be required for its administration, and to look over the grounds for a suitable location for headquarters. In Mancos he engaged the services of a guide and horses, and took eight and one half hours to reach the park. Here he spent one day viewing the principal cliff houses, and upon his return to Ignacio prepared a brief report about the general conditions of the park, suggesting measures for improvements.

Mesa Verde National Park, he noted, was isolated from civilization. Mancos, on the Denver and Rio Grande Southern Railroad, was the nearest and most accessible point for the public to outfit for the park; the distance from there to the boundary line was about 20 miles. From Mancos to the foot of the Mesa was 15 miles and all this distance could be traveled in a buggy or hack over a country road. To reach the top of Chapin Mesa one had to travel a very steep and dangerous pony trail, in most places from two to three feet wide, very winding, and generally traveled on horseback. He noted that the principal cliff houses—Spruce Tree House, Balcony House, and Cliff Palace—needed some masonry repairs, especially the first two which showed more signs of destruction and wear and tear. [2]

About all that Leonard did for the protection of the park was to place typewritten placards informing the public about the penalty for destroying the ruins.

Leonard was transferred from the Ute School sometime in April 1907, and Charles F. Werner took his place as Superintendent of the School and Acting Superintendent of the park. [3] He visited the park about the middle of August and prepared a report containing suggestions regarding the construction of roads, trails, and other means of access to the ruins, provisions for increasing the water supply, and other improvements. [4]

B. Randolph's superintendency

On July 26, 1907, the Denver Post announced that Major George Randolph of the Colorado National Guard had been appointed the first permanent superintendent of Mesa Verde National Park. Randolph's selection, said the Daily News, was a matter for congratulations to those who wished to see the park

beautified and improved and properly officered. The stupendous task was given to Major Randolph through the endorsement of the entire Colorado delegation in Congress and the scientific men of the country .... He will carefully inspect the ruins in order that he may make proper recommendations to the next Congress for an appropriation commensurate with the task of improving the park and preserving in their natural environment the relics of the cliff dwellers.

To the timid traveler the wonders of the Mesa Verde have been, under present conditions, almost inaccessible, but the establishment of the national park will change the tortuous trail to a system of good roads and in time hotels and creature comforts, inasmuch as they do not destroy the picturesque effects of these sermons in stone, will be provided for the weary wayfarer.

One of the first things which Randolph will do is to make the ruins more accessible. The government intends to begin construction of wagon roads and trails both leading up to and within the boundaries of the park. [5]

Not too many details are known about the selection of Major Randolph as superintendent, but it was a political decision that did more harm than good to the incipient park; the Smithsonian Institution sponsored its own candidate, and Mrs. McClurg, of the Colorado Cliff Dwellings Association, wanted the positions to be given to her husband Gilbert McClurg, Randolph was the candidate of Mrs. Lucy Peabody, often referred to as the "Mother of Mesa Verde National Park." [6]

Randolph was instructed to put into effect the provisions of the park bill, and especially the preservation from injury or plundering of the ruins and other works and relics of prehistoric or primitive man within the park. He was to take the necessary steps to protect the reservation against the encroachment of unauthorized persons or their residence in the park; against the presence of anything that might tend to create a nuisance or affect the purity of the waters or streams; against the cutting or removal of trees, shrubs, sod, earth or rock, prehistoric or other ruins, or anything belonging to the reservation, unless such removal was for the purpose of beautifying the park or increasing its usefulness, and then only under the specific direction of the Secretary or his authorized representative; against all acts of vandalism on the part of curiosity hunters, malicious individuals, or other persons, who from thoughtlessness or design sought to deface any of the natural curiosities or ruins in the reservation.

Excavation work, preservation and repairs of the cliff dwellings and other prehistoric ruins would be under the immediate supervision of Dr. J. Walter Fewkes of the Bureau of American Ethnology, who would perform his duties and receive directions immediately from the Secretary. The sum of $2,000 was set aside from the 1907 park appropriation of $7,500 to enable Dr. Fewkes to carry on the scientific work delegated to him in the park. He was expected to reach Mesa Verde sometime in the spring of 1908, and at once enter upon the work of excavation, preservation and repair of the ruins.

Of the appropriated funds, $3,000 was alloted for the construction of roads, trails, and the superintendent's cabin; cleaning out springs; and providing a better water supply. After familiarizing himself with the park and its conditions, the superintendent would submit a tentative set of regulations. Meantime the provisions of the act setting aside the park would be enforced.[7]

Randolph arrived in Mancos, a town of about 500 persons, and formally took charge on August 31, 1907. Because of the absence of any building for his accommodation in the park, his headquarters were established in the Bauer building in Mancos, and later in a building detached from the business houses of the town. At this point, the nearest to the park, commercial guides and saddle and pack horses were obtained. [8]

Following official instructions, his first work was to inspect the park and determine what service would be necessary for its administration. As nothing had been done toward the improvement and organization of the park, it was necessary to do some temporary work, pending the acceptance of permanent plans for its management and development. The park was "in a very disorderly condition—tin cans, papers and all kinds of rubbish. There having being no restraint on campers in the past it does not require much imagination to realize how very dirty it was." [9] Workmen were employed to clear away the rubbish left by camping parties of previous years, and to put the grounds around Spruce Tree House in proper condition. This cliff dwelling had the best water supply of the Chapin Mesa and afforded the most agreeable camping place for travelers. A log cabin, which had stood for some years at this place, was allowed to remain for temporary use. All unsightly debris was removed and orders given that in the future no rubbish would be allowed to accummulate about camp or in the vicinity of the principal ruins.

It was found that the services of one park ranger would be needed; it was recommended, and appointment made as authorized. Later, two additional rangers were employed to assist in the care of the park and serve as guides to visitors during the travel season. A clerk was also employed for a short time to keep the office open during the absence of the superintendent. [10]

A survey of a practicable road from Mancos and through the park and the 5-mile strip to the ruins was entered upon by George Mills, United States deputy surveyor, late in the fall of 1907, and was completed in the spring of 1908. The initial expense of opening the park by the construction of roads and trails leading to the many ruins, and providing for the prevention of fires and policing the area, was estimated to aggregate approximately $19,500, and an estimate in that amount was submitted to Congress. [11]

C. A scandalous departure

Randolph's main park activity was the construction of the new wagon road that provided access to the park. In a sense, the construction of this road was responsible in great part for his scandalous downfall after almost four years as superintendent.

On October 27, 1910, a complaint was made from Denver with reference to the unsatisfactory administration of affairs in the park. On the strength of this complaint, the Secretary instructed one Mr. Andrew Kennedy to make an inspection of the portion of road built under the supervision of Randolph, and to make a preliminary investigation of the superintendent's management of other park affairs. Kennedy informed the Secretary that the superintendent had a drinking problem, was active in politics, and was involved in the factional banking rivalries of Mancos; that there was some evidence of graft in connection with park funds, but recommended to retain Randolph unless further charges arose. Some of the accusations were extremely serious. G. T. Cline, one of Randolph's accusers, was promoter of the Mancos National Bank and member of the party that opposed the superintendent. James A. Frink, Director of the bank, was one time temporary ranger of the park under Randolph, and according to his declaration, gave the superintendent about half of his salary; Frink was to receive in compensation grazing privileges in the park. [12]

About the only friendly hand that was extended to Randolph was that of Dr. Hewett of the Smithsonian. On December 22, 1910, Hewett called upon the Secretary to tell him about his observations with regard to the management of the park. He stated that the superintendent was a very competent young officer and had rendered efficient services; that the complaints against his administration by Mr. Cline were personal and motivated probably because friends of Cline were not successful in being awarded certain contracts in connection with the wagon road recently built in the park. Hewett stated that, in his opinion, the road was well built and at a minimum expense, and that in the event any complaints affecting Randolph's integrity or management of the park were filed, he would be pleased to put his views in writing, if desired. However, he recommended a formal investigation anyway. [13]

Mr. Cline persisted in having Randolph investigated and on February 11, 1911, Special Inspector Edward B. Linnen, of the Department, was investigating the management of the park. [14]

On April 13 Linnen wired to Washington that the superintendent was desirous of resigning under existing conditions; that there was evidence of "padding pay-rolls" and other irregularities. On April 14 Randolph wired the Secretary "tendering his resignation, at his pleasure." On April 17 Linnen wired again:

Sworn evidence employees, giving portion their salaries to Superintendent, three so testify. Kimball, on wagon road pay-roll for hundred eighteen dollars, testifies never performed any road work but did paper and paint Superintendent's office. Other small irregularities pay-rolls, persons who did not perform work, prior political activity, and excessive drinking...

Two days later the Secretary wired Randolph saying: "Resignation declined. You are relieved from duty as superintendent park pending final consideration inspector report. Linnen will relieve you. You may file here any defense you may have."

By April 20 Linnen was in charge of the park. Randolph denied the serious charges against him, but Linnen's report was not favorable and the superintendent was fired.

Jesse Nusbaum, who knew him intimately at Mesa Verde, remembers that Randolph was a likeable and cooperative person, but was an out-and-out politician.

During the thirteen-week period of Randolph's administration while I was excavating and stabilizing Balcony House Ruin in the fall of 1911, Superintendent Randolph carried a revolver at all times because of personal threats against him, always placing it in ready reach in the top, right drawer of his desk in his Mancos office during day or night conferences, and on several occasions, to my knowledge, he had a stenographer concealed by a screen recording what was said. Local hostility culminated on the night that G. T. Cline, cashier of the Bauer Bank, attempted to shoot Superintendent Randolph on a Mancos street. Billy Miller, hardware dealer, fortunately grabbed Cline's gun at the critical moment and defeated his purpose. [15]

It was most unfortunate for the development of the park that the next two superintendents after Randolph were selected for political considerations also. Samuel Shoemaker (1911-13), 65 years old and a former employee of the Indian Service, was employed as manager of a brick yard in Durango, when he became superintendent. [16] Thomas Rickner, a well-known man from Mancos, was running a butcher shop in town when he received the "political plum." His administration lasted eight years (1913-21) during which nepotism was rampant.