Pipe Spring Cultures at a Crossroads An Administrative History of Pipe Spring National Monument

Introduction

Mission 66 was a service-wide, 10-year conservation program initiated by the National Park Service in 1956. In the words of Director Conrad L. Wirth, "Its whole purpose was to make possible the best and wisest use of America's scenic and historic heritage." [1648] Accomplishment of the program required a great deal of new development and construction, but this activity was seen as the necessary means to achieve conservation objectives. Approved by President Dwight D. Eisenhower and Congress, the program was launched with an increase of $19,153,700 in the Park Service's appropriation for the 1957 fiscal year. In response to increasing demands of the motor touring public, parks across the country endeavored to improve their physical plants, roads, campgrounds, and visitor services. Mission 66 made funds available for new developments at Pipe Spring National Monument, some of which had been needed and planned since the 1930s. While the national program formally lasted until 1966, most of its impacts on Pipe Spring were experienced between 1957 and 1961. During Mission 66, a modern comfort station was erected (1956-1957); the monument's first permanent residences were built (1959); new walkways were constructed and old ones repaired (1959-1960); a new parking area and service roads were built (1960); restoration work on the fort and rehabilitation work on the cabins was carried out (1959-1961); and the museum displays in the fort and two cabins were greatly improved (early 1960s). Two other significant advances at the monument during this period were the hiring of a seasonal park historian in 1956 (replaced by a permanent park historian in 1958 and his successor in 1960) and the long-awaited arrival of commercial power to the area in 1960.

Overshadowing all other events in the region and of significant impact to the monument's development was the construction of one of the world's highest dams at Glen Canyon. The building of the dam was authorized on April 11, 1956. While the prime contract was awarded in April 1957, related construction projects began during the fall of 1956. The most important of these was the construction of the Glen Canyon Bridge, built between February 1957 and August 1958. (Prior to the construction of the bridge, people in Utah had to drive all the way around to Lee's Ferry and cross over the Navajo Bridge in order to get to Page, Arizona, a trip of 200 miles.) The first bucket of concrete was poured for the dam on June 17, 1960; the final bucket on September 13, 1963. [1649] The dam's construction finally brought about improvement to area roads, including to the long-neglected Hurricane-Fredonia route.

This chapter chronicles events from 1956 through December 1963, to include the retirement of Acting Superintendent Leonard Heaton and the transition to Management Assistant Hugh H. Bozarth.

Monument Administration

1956

In February 1956 Heaton learned that Pipe Spring National Monument would be allotted $300 to hire a park historian for that summer's travel season and that $3,000 was available to construct a comfort station. (See "Planning and Development" section for details on the latter.) Regional Chief of Operations David H. Canfield made an impromptu visit to Pipe Spring on March 27, 1956, en route to Zion National Park. Heaton learned from him that the monument might soon get two new residences. In a memorandum to Regional Director Hugh Miller, Canfield described Heaton's residence as "in rather miserable condition." [1650] He also stated that the pit toilets were in "pretty bad shape in every respect." (There were four there at the time.) Canfield recommended that lightning rods be installed on several tall trees near the fort rather than on the fort itself. "There is a faint hope that some day commercial electrical power will be available, but that day seems very indefinite," Canfield reported. [1651] He recommended that Heaton be given a backup generator, as the monument only had one. (When the monument's sole generator ceased functioning six months later, the family still had no backup plant on site.)

The new summer park historian was appointed in May 1956, Lloyd Snow Sandberg of Hurricane, Utah. On May 12 Sandberg stopped by the monument and found Heaton hauling gravel to the site of the new comfort station and assembling other materials for its construction. Although construction on the comfort station began May 18, 1956, the building would not ready for use until April 1957. A house trailer was delivered from Zion on May 25 for Sandberg's living quarters. It was located at the southeast corner of the meadow where it could be hooked up to lights as well as water and sewer lines. Heaton spent three days getting it ready for the new employee. Meanwhile, Edna and Olive Heaton washed all of the fort's windows, helping to get the place "spiffed up" for the upcoming Establishment Day.

On May 31, 1956, the monument celebrated Establishment Day, recognizing the establishment of Pipe Spring National Monument on May 31, 1923. The "Hepworth boys" played old time music at the event, attended by 75 people. A program was presented under the trees on the east side of the meadow and a number of old-timers shared their memories. Loren C. Little, Kumen Jones, several Winsor family members, and Charles C. Heaton all spoke about the history of the site. [1652] (Kumen Jones, resident of Cedar City, was the son of Lehi W. Jones, part owner with David D. Bulloch of the Pipe Spring ranch, 1895-1902. Kumen spent his boyhood at Pipe Spring.) Superintendent Franke outlined plans for the monument under the Mission 66 initiative. Bryce Canyon's Superintendent Glen T. Bean and Chief Naturalist Carl E. Jepson attended, along with their wives.

96. Park Historian Lloyd S. Sandberg, 1957 (Photograph by Leonard Heaton, Pipe Spring National Monument, neg. 19).

Lloyd and LaNorma Sandberg and their three children arrived at the monument on the evening of June 7, 1956, and moved into the trailer house. [1653] On June 8 Sandberg entered on duty as the monument's first seasonal park historian. Heaton was impressed with the young man, and wrote in his journal that night, "It is evident he has been studying all the literature... as he is able to conduct visitors like an old hand through the fort explaining the history and the like.... He should do an excellent job as park historian." [1654] Sandberg received a belated Arizona Strip-style welcome to Pipe Spring on July 9 when he discovered a large rattlesnake in the upstairs of the fort. With Sandberg's hiring, the monument could now officially be open to visitors seven days a week. In addition to giving guided tours, Sandberg spent a good deal of his time conducting research on the history of Pipe Spring. During the summer of 1956, his research activities included interviewing old-timers in Kanab, Moccasin, and St. George. In July Sandberg began compiling a historical handbook for the monument, whose first draft was completed in 1957. [1655] On July 17, 1956, Sandberg moved his family to Hurricane where his pregnant wife could be closer to the hospital and a doctor's care as her due date approached. On August 11 a baby girl, named Lucinda, was born to the Sandbergs. Lloyd Sandberg's tour of duty at the monument ended that year in early September. (He taught school in Hurricane during the school year.) On August 30, as an appropriate send-off, Heaton reported, "Killed a large rattlesnake at the back door of the fort this evening." [1656]

Plans for installation of a lightning protection system on the fort were received in March 1956 with an allotment of $400 for the installation. Finally, during the summer of 1956, the fort was given lightning protection. On June 14 and 15, five lightning rods and cable were installed on the building by two Zion staff and a hired laborer. While they may have afforded increased protection against lightning, they created a security problem, as will be referenced later.

The monument's budget for fiscal year 1956 could not cover the cost of both the lightning protection system and the completion of the comfort station. The comfort station thus had to be built in several stages over more than a one-year period. Heaton must have expressed some frustration over Zion officials' handling of the project, for on August 1, 1956, he reported that, while at Zion for a staff meeting, Assistant Superintendent Art Thomas "gave me a bawling out about my critical comments about the comfort station and how it was planned and materials got. Guess I was a little outspoken, but it looks like I could be considered a little more on what is planned and work projects for this area and [I] sometime wonder if they would like me out." [1657]

In early August 1956, construction worker Wayne Simms asked Heaton if he and his crew could camp on the monument for about six weeks with three trailers while doing some reservoir construction work on the Kaibab Indian Reservation. Heaton agreed to the arrangement, but there were five trailers instead of three. On August 17 Heaton went to Zion and met Park Service Director Conrad L. Wirth. He learned on this trip that the monument would be getting an increase of $1,170 in management funds for fiscal year 1957, which would enable him to hire a laborer for a month. Heaton stayed for a party thrown for Wirth during which - abstinent Heaton observed - some men "got more [drinks] than was good for them." [1658]

Heaton found himself in hot water again when, on August 24, 1956, the monument received an inspection visit from Washington and regional office officials. He wrote in his journal that evening, "Don't think they liked what they saw, that I was using the fire hose and pump [to clear pipelines]. Also critical of campers and Simms and lightning rods on the fort. Need to put one on the flagpole. Also the little dog Plundy was a sore spot. Will have to keep her away as a little girl got scared of the dog. So I guess I am in the dog house again." [1659]

When Heaton attended staff meeting in early September 1956, he was told that Director Wirth did not approve of Heaton's acting superintendent title, "so may get a new title soon," he wrote. [1660] (His title was viewed as an anomaly because Pipe Spring had no superintendent, thus how could there be an "acting"? Nonetheless, Heaton's title was left unchanged. After he retired in 1963, however, his successor's title became "management assistant.") Heaton was given permission to hire a laborer to cover for him on weekends during the early fall. After that time Edna Heaton and the children volunteered their services again until the next summer when they left for Alton. During September the monument's only generator broke down. The following day, a backup plant was brought up from Zion for the family's use and the main plant was taken to Zion for repairs. The backup generator played havoc with the family's lighting and appliances, burning out the Heaton's deep freezer. The repaired plant was reinstalled 10 days after its initial breakdown.

On September 17, 1956, regional officials visited the monument to inspect the fort and to make notes for improvements and repairs. The officials reiterated the need for stabilization of the fort's southwest corner. They objected to the manner in which lightning rods were placed on the fort. The men identified needed work on the east and west cabins and recommended that the monument get new tables for the campground (the old CCC-era log tables were still in use). Heaton was told during the officials' visit that if Congress approved, a permanent park historian would be assigned to the monument in July 1957.

The Zion staff meeting for October 3, 1956, was notable for its brevity. Heaton reported, "Was the shortest Supt. Franke ever held and [he] let the fellows go listen to the baseball game." [1661] Due to drought conditions, the month was a hard one for stockmen on the Arizona Strip. Heaton reported that cattle were being moved to mountain pastures; some were in very poor condition. "Some very poor heads being sold as the owners do not have any winter feed and can't afford feed for their stock," Heaton wrote in his journal. [1662] Work began in October on modernizing the monument's telephone system. The new dial telephone required the line be changed over from underground to overhead. (Heaton reported the underground cable had become "shorted out too much" for dial system use.) The work was not completed until March 7, 1957, when Heaton reported, "The last of the work in changing from the old crank telephone to dial phone was completed today. The dial system went into operation Saturday at 12:10 p.m. The monument number [is] MI-3-5505." [1663]

In April 1956 Heaton asked Zion officials for permission to remove the old cattle corrals located at the monument's southwest corner. These were the last of the corrals at the monument associated with cattle ranching operations. Heaton wrote Superintendent Franke,

This corral is not being used to any great extent now that most of the cattle are trucked from one pasture to another. I would recommend that this old cattle corral be taken down. The material in this corral was once used where the camp area is now located, built by owners of the springs about 1888 or 1890. [1664]

There were once corrals in the area southeast of the fort in the area of the old campground. These are the ones that Heaton refers to above as having been built. From Heaton's statement, it appears that the southwest corner corrals were built in the 1920s of salvaged materials resulting from Pinkley's efforts to clean up the landscape after the site was made a national monument. Heaton added that a new boundary fence would need to be installed in the area of the corrals once they were removed. In November 1956 Heaton hired his son Leonard P. to clean out the cattle guards at the east and west entrance, to rebuild one-quarter mile of boundary fence, to remove the old cattle corrals, and to cut up the salvaged wood for campground use. All this work was completed in December 1956. Enough human remains were encountered during the removal of the corrals that Zion officials later suspected the area was a burial ground. They asked that it be depicted on maps included in the monument's 1959 master plan. [1665] (See figure 97.)

97. General Development, 1959 Master Plan (Courtesy NPS Technical Information Center). (click on image for an enlargement in a new window)

1957

The Colorado River Storage Project Act of 1956 authorized the construction of Glen Canyon Dam, located just south of the Arizona-Utah border. The dam project was supported by some of the same conservationists who successfully defeated the proposed Echo Park Dam at Dinosaur National Monument. The dam was 710 feet high, described by historian Donald Worster as "a chalk-white arch wedged between dark red stone canyon walls." [1666] Construction work began in 1957 and was not completed until 1963. (Glen Canyon National Recreation Area was established on April 18, 1958.) Work on the Glen Canyon Dam resulted in an enormous increase in traffic over area roads, much of which passed over State Highway 40 and through the monument. The construction of Canyon Dam led to population growth in Kanab and Fredonia and to increased visitation to Pipe Spring National Monument. Travel along area roads dramatically increased due to the construction project and the need for improved roads was suddenly urgent. [1667] (See "Area Roads" section.)

The impact of the Glen Canyon Dam project on area traffic became evident to Heaton by early 1957. In his monthly report for February, Heaton wrote, "There is considerably more travel coming out on the weekends from Kanab and Fredonia, people that are in this area because of the Glen Canyon Dam project." [1668] Heaton had sufficient operating funds in 1957 to keep a laborer on at the monument for two days a week from April until late July. In March Heaton hired Carl Johnson for the position. Beginning April 20, Lloyd Sandberg went on part-time duty, working weekends until June 1 when he switched to full-time. This enabled the monument to be open seven days a week a few months prior to summer and ensured protection for the site during Heaton's absences. (Sandberg came on duty to help with the Easter weekend crowd, but did not return to full-time work until the last week of May.) Heaton observed about this time that most visitors came in the cooler months of spring or fall. Those who came in the summer often came between 3:00 p.m. and sunset, requiring Heaton or Sandberg to give tours many days until 7:00 or 8:00 p.m., particularly on weekends.

Heaton was told at the May 1, 1957, staff meeting that Regional Director Hugh Miller and Associate Director Eivind T. Scoyen might visit the monument on May 10, 16, or 17. Meanwhile, Heaton had Johnson paint the new comfort station and haul in gravel for walkways. Blacktopped walkways were laid around the comfort station, to the fort, and to the east cabin on May 8 and 10. Everything was in top shape by May 10. As the 10th, 16th, and 17th came and went, the expected officials failed to appear. On the evening of May 17, a dejected Heaton wrote in his journal, "No visitors from the NPS office as expected. Guess I don't rate very much with them." [1669]

In 1957 the Establishment Day celebration at the monument was held on May 30 to coincide with Memorial Day. The program included two grandsons of Benjamin Knell (Rulon and Ray Knell), along with Kumen Jones. Superintendent Franke, Carl Jepson, Leonard Heaton, and Lloyd Sandberg also participated in the program. As in the previous year, Franke spoke about the goals of the Mission 66 program and plans for the monument. [1670] The number of participants was "a little disappointing," Franke later reported to Miller (so much so that the numbers weren't even cited in either Franke's report or Heaton's journal).

On June 1, 1957, Heaton received a surprise visit from Chief Landscape Architect Merel Sager, (Washington office), Park Landscape Architect Robert G. ("George") Hall (San Francisco office), and Assistant Superintendent Art Thomas. The purpose of the visit was to inspect the site and discuss developments to be made under the Mission 66 program. The men told Heaton that Regional Director Miller would visit the monument some time that summer and advised Heaton to get the place cleaned up a little more. [1671] Miller did not visit the monument again until August 30, 1958.

When Heaton attended the Zion staff meeting on July 10, 1957, he was upset to learn that some fiscal year-end money shuffling had transpired: "Found that Zion had taken the money allotted for Pipe for their use, almost $500. It is not going to happen again if I can help it. Plan to use it as it comes available. Also learned that I would not get any new construction until 1960 or later. They had not ordered any of the supplies or materials I requested before the first of the month to be paid in last year's money." [1672] These incidences, hardly surprising in the federal bureaucracy, frustrated a man with Heaton's background and made no sense to him whatsoever. But, as always, life went on at the monument while Heaton did his best to roll with the punches. Laborer Carl Johnson was temporarily laid off in late July 1957 (to comply with personnel regulations) then was rehired in early September, along with Kelly Heaton who filled in while Leonard Heaton took annual leave. In October 1957 Superintendent Franke started the necessary papers to hire a permanent park historian at the monument. Heaton was authorized in the interim to hire Lloyd Sandberg for weekends the rest of the month and was given permission to employ laborers during October and November. [1673]

On November 7, 1957, Heaton answered a fire call from the Moccasin school. The fire was put out before too much damage was done. He took a day's annual leave on the 8th to help repair the damages at the school building so classes could resume the following week. [1674] Later that month Heaton hired Carl Johnson and Kelly Heaton as laborers to help complete a number of maintenance projects. The two men first installed a water line to the generator house, using salvaged pipe. Then in December they made repairs to the two historic cabins and to the fort. (See "Historic Buildings" section.) In January 1958 Johnson resigned to take a permanent job and Kelly Heaton experienced a lengthy illness. When Johnson resigned, Heaton hired his son Gary to work as laborer. Kelly Heaton returned to work toward the end of February.

The fact that most laborers working for any length of time at the monument during the 1940s, 1950s, and early 1960s were either related to Leonard Heaton or were local Kaibab Paiute men is not surprising, given the remoteness of the site. Until the Hurricane-Fredonia road was rebuilt, getting to the monument from other towns was difficult. The only two communities of any size were Moccasin (where practically everyone was related to the Heaton family by blood or marriage) and Kaibab Village, so these two areas furnished the majority of men given seasonal or part-time jobs at Pipe Spring. Occasionally, when short-term restoration work required special carpentry, masonry, or other skills, Heaton hired men from Fredonia, Kanab, or Short Creek.

Beginning in 1957 and continuing through 1958, historical research was conducted to prepare plans for furnishing the fort as a historic house museum. On January 18, 1957, Regional Chief of Interpretation Erik K. Reed notified Arthur Woodward of Altadena, California, that funds were available to undertake interpretive planning at Pipe Spring. He hired Woodward to prepare a museum prospectus and a detailed, illustrated plan for historic furnishings for the fort. (Woodward was a research collaborator in the Park Service office at the University of California, Berkeley. He researched and wrote one of the early histories of Pipe Spring in 1941, referenced in Part V. Woodward was also the former curator of history at the Los Angeles Museum.) Reed also asked Woodward to research and prepare recommendations for exhibits and interpretive plans at Fort Union National Historic Site during the same time period. Woodward did much of his research during October 1957, when he first visited Pipe Spring National Monument. [1675]

On October 12, 1957, which happened to be Heaton's day off, Woodward called at the fort to look at its exhibits. Since her husband was away, Edna Heaton spent an hour with the researcher going over the house furnishing plans that he was working on. Woodward made a number of suggestions to her regarding changes that would improve the display. Later, Heaton was disappointed to learn he had missed Woodward's visit, but had gotten no advance notice of it. During February 1958, Heaton tried to rearrange the museum articles in the fort to make a better display, presumably based on information Woodward had passed on to Edna during his visit.

The fort's displays and interpretive program had much room for improvement. Regional Archeologist Charlie R. Steen visited the monument with Historian Robert M. ("Bob") Utley on November 22, 1957. It was Utley's first visit to the monument. The two men went through the fort which Steen described as "neat and clean" with authentic pieces on display. "Still," Steen commented in a memorandum to Erik Reed, "the fort does not come to life and portray an era." [1676] The two men visited Cove Fort a few days later, and Steen could not help comparing the site with Pipe Spring. He later wrote Reed,

The contents of the rooms at Pipe Spring suffer because they are mostly odds and ends, which have accumulated during the years, and no room is truly furnished. It would be best to cease our feeble attempts to show the entire post as a furnished historic house. If it is thought possible to acquire enough items used at the fort, or in the Moccasin community, during the period of the fort's importance which can be used to furnish one or two rooms then let us furnish those one or two rooms adequately. One other room could readily be utilized for formal exhibit panels to describe the history of the fort. I will even go so far as to suggest that we close the second story to visitors. [1677]

The transformation of the fort's interior into a historic house museum by the careful selection and placement of historic furnishings would mostly take place in 1959 and the early 1960s, after receipt of Woodward's report and as funds were allotted to the monument to buy period furnishings.

1958

98. Park Historian James C. McKown with handcranked wood lathe, fall of 1958 (Photograph by Jim Digby, courtesy James C. McKown).

Heaton was informed by Superintendent Franke in December 1957 that the monument's first permanent park historian had been selected for Pipe Spring National Monument. Heaton spent several days in January 1958 fixing the house trailer for the new employee, James C. ("Jim") McKown, who reported for duty at 5:00 p.m. on February 10 and moved into the trailer house. [1678] McKown had grown up in California and had a degree in history. Prior to coming to the monument he worked six summers as a seasonal ranger at Yellowstone National Park. The day after McKown's arrival at Pipe Spring, Heaton gave him a tour of the fort and the area, then informed Zion officials of his arrival. Superintendent Franke told Heaton he could keep McKown at Pipe Spring only until February 24, when he was to report to Zion for several months. [1679] As Kelly Heaton was still unable to work due to illness, most of the work McKown was given his first few weeks at the monument was maintenance work, assisting Gary Heaton rake and haul leaves and cut up wood in the campground. McKown, a Catholic, attended church in Kanab shortly before leaving for Zion. When McKown returned to full-time duty, Heaton arranged his work schedule so that McKown could take several hours off on Sunday mornings to attend mass.

Gary Heaton worked several days in late February repairing the old stone fireplaces in the campground, which were often damaged by campers' vehicles. Near the end of the month Kelly Heaton returned to work and, with Gary, worked in the fort cleaning museum articles and outside on maintenance tasks. Gary worked alone as laborer in March and April 1958.

In early March 1958, Heaton attended a staff meeting and later went over Mission 66 plans for the monument with Zion officials. To his disappointment, Heaton learned that McKown was to be kept at Zion for another three weeks. On March 9 he received a visit from Regional Curator Franklin G. Smith who went over the museum's records. They must not have met his approval for Heaton later wrote in his journal, "As soon as Jim McKown gets back will start him on our records. We need to get Woodward's report on historic display so we can get going." [1680] On March 25 Heaton called Zion officials to ask if he could hire a historian to work weekends. He was authorized to hire Ortho Christensen to begin April 5 and to work weekends until McKown returned from Zion. Heaton appeared to be wearing thin under Zion's supervision. He wrote in his journal that evening, "A bit out of patience and sore because Supt. Franke is keeping McKown down there so long just to help Zion out. More disgusted with my job all the time. Feel like quitting." [1681]

99. Ray Mose, undated; probably late 1950s or early 1960s (Pipe Spring National Monument).

The lightning protection system installed on the fort in 1956 created a new security problem for Heaton to deal with. On April 26, 1958, a number of Kanab High School students were picnicking on the monument. Heaton later reported that some of the boys "climbed over the back of the fort by lightning rod cable and opened up the fort after dark. I have been afraid of this ever since the cables have been put up." [1682] Heaton speculated access had been gained to the fort on other occasion via the cable. The idea of scaling the fort walls by various means was not new - it had occurred to some of Camp DG-44's CCC enrollees in the late 1930s and to others since that time, only trees had previously been used to surmount the walls. The concept of penetrating the defenses of a fort originally designed to withstand enemy attack appears to have been just more temptation than some adolescent boys could resist!

On April 28, 1958, Heaton learned that the tunnel on the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway had caved in at 6 p.m., forcing the temporary closure of the road. Travel along the Hurricane-Fredonia route significantly increased with many stopping to see the fort, but ended as soon as the tunnel was repaired and the Zion highway reopened. [1683] At a staff meeting on May 7 Heaton picked up the new Mission 66 master plan for the monument and learned that an order he had placed for 10 picnic tables and five cement fireplaces would soon be filled. He was given permission in April to hire another laborer (in addition to Gary Heaton) to do work at the monument. By May 19 he hired a Kaibab Paiute man, Ray Mose, whose Paiute name was Saxaivaw, meaning "blue-green water." [1684] Mose's first big maintenance project was to stabilize the fort pond walls by repointing exterior stonework. (See "Ponds, Fish, Fowl, and Springs" section.)

On May 12, 1958, Jim McKown returned to the monument from his Zion detail and Ortho Christensen was released from weekend guide duties. Still miffed about Zion's absconding with his new employee for three months, Heaton wrote in his journal upon McKown's return, "He is back from Zion Park now and [I] hope he will be left here." [1685] Heaton had much for him to do - above and beyond guide work - for Establishment Day was fast approaching. Heaton liked McKown's ideas for making the fort displays more attractive and allowed him to rearrange the museum's display that month. Heaton was quite pleased with the results. McKown also cleaned the artifacts on display, then he was assigned the less creative task of washing all the fort's windows! On May 28, 10 new picnic tables and five cement fireplaces for the campground were delivered from Zion, along with a gas-driven mower. [1686] McKown put together a self-guided leaflet for the fort and nature trail then took it to Zion to run off on a mimeograph machine so it could be used by Establishment Day visitors.

That year Establishment Day was held on May 30, 1958. The event was made even more memorable because that year marked the 100th anniversary of Jacob Hamblin's party's stop at Pipe Spring (October 30, 1858) and the 35th anniversary since the monument's establishment. The program was held in front of the fort and included a welcome address given Leonard Heaton, a reading of the poem "Call to Dixie" by Olive Heaton; an accounting of Hamblin's work among the Indians by Mrs. Helen H. Burgoine, great-granddaughter of Jacob Hamblin; a recounting of events leading up the monument's establishment by Charles C. Heaton; and remarks by Superintendent Franke and by Carl Jepson, who brought the new mimeographed leaflets along with him.

Once the big event was over, the work routine returned to normal for Heaton and McKown. Unlike his predecessor Lloyd Sandberg, who was Mormon, McKown did not fit into the local white community. Besides, McKown had a sincere interest in making friends with the Kaibab Paiute and in learning about their culture and language. He spent a lot of time with Ray Mose and recently recalled that Mose "had a tremendous sense of humor. He taught me a lot of Paiute words." [1687] From time to time, McKown was invited into the homes of his Indian friends and they in turn visited him in his trailer, often in groups. In a recent interview, McKown recalled being somewhat surprised that one Kaibab Paiute woman friend asked to take his picture, since it was typically the white folks who took pictures of the Indians! "I was one of the few white people the Kaibab Paiute trusted and opened up to," McKown remembered. "They knew I was interested in them and their language." [1688] McKown was also deeply moved by the alcoholism that wrought havoc in the lives of many of his Indian friends. He recalled that the attitude expressed by many local whites toward the Indians at that time was "condescending." Leonard Heaton, however, "had a better attitude. Just like he accepted me as Catholic, he accepted them as Paiutes. And that was why they trusted him and went to his house.... He accepted the Paiutes as human beings." [1689] Heaton, said McKown, "was great, the nicest person I ever worked for, and Edna after a while warmed up to me and brought me freshly baked bread every week." [1690]

Heaton still had to contend with monthly trips to Zion. After returning from the June 5, 1958, staff meeting, Heaton wrote in his journal, "The trip to Zion just about does me up, nervous tension and tobacco smoke in the staff meeting rooms. Heard over the radio today that all Civil Service white-collared workers get 10 percent raise. Should get about $20 [per] pay period if it is true. Sure will help a lot." [1691] That June, Heaton and McKown worked well together as a team, discussing changes in the fort display and improving their methods of visitor contact. Whereas tours used to always start at his office in the fort, they now started at the fort ponds, went through the east gate into the fort, through the fort, exiting through the office last. They also decided to remove more from Heaton's office (to make it less crowded) and to remove furnishings in the fort that were not appropriate, even if it meant leaving the rooms looking a little bare, until the "right" furnishings could be acquired. They removed anything broken from display and agreed not to put it back until repairs had been made. Finally, they decided to make a registration booth and box for self-guided leaflets for visitor use.

Ray Mose was the only laborer kept on during the summer of 1958. Heaton had him work on a variety of maintenance and grounds-keeping projects around the monument. He covered over an old trash dump in the monument and rebuilt the rock ditch that led from the spring to the ponds. In late July Mose demolished an old garage/woodshed located at the southwest corner of the monument. In August he removed the rock floor from the garage site, using the stone to line the walkways to the comfort station. He also repointed the rock walls east and west of the fort with colored cement. Mose was laid off for the season in mid-September.

In early July 1958, approval was given to construct two residences at Pipe Spring during fiscal year 1959 (see "Planning and Development" section). McKown was left in charge of visitors that Fourth of July, the first such holiday Heaton had ever been able to leave the monument. Shortly after, McKown moved all the display case exhibits out of the upstairs rooms of the fort in preparation for switching to exhibits more in keeping with a historic house museum. On July 25, 1958, McKown reported to Heaton that a group of boys from Kanab had been pot hunting the previous night in the Pueblo ruins south of the monument and had found several pots. Heaton later reported that he went to Kanab the evening of July 25 and obtained from Wendell Heaton and other boys the broken pottery they dug up from the Indian ruins south of the monument. "There were six dug up. Got five broken ones, most of which were broken while digging them up and they were very nice ones, if whole," Leonard Heaton wrote in his journal. [1692] On July 26 Carl Jepson and another ranger from Zion visited the monument to go through the fort and provide ideas on how it should be furnished. The decision was made to display Indian material in cases in the north room of the east cabin. Heaton padlocked the room's door to secure the collection. [1693]

In early August 1958, Heaton learned that $20,000 had been allotted for repairs to historic structures, but he had not yet been told how the money could be spent. At Franke's request, Heaton worked up a long list of possible projects and forwarded it to the regional office. That month Zion's electrical engineer came to assess the monument's needs and to lay out its electrical system. In early August Jim McKown worked on preparing a new self-guided tour pamphlet. It then went to Zion for Carl Jepson's review and approval and for printing. When McKown picked up the printed leaflets later that month, he discovered 20 or more mistakes included, thanks to Jepson's editorial revisions.

On August 30, 1958, Regional Director Hugh Miller made an inspection visit at the monument. He later described the rearranged fort display as "greatly improved" since he had last seen it. He also agreed that the archeological materials and blacksmith and carpenter tools in the "old quarters" (east cabin) deserved to be included "in some form" in the monument's interpretive program. [1694] He noted a lack of museum storage space on the monument, but expected that to be corrected with the building of a new visitor center, which was included in the Mission 66 plan. Miller went over the monument's development plans with Heaton, who had only one objection and that was to the relocation of the utility area. Heaton wanted it to remain where it was. In his later inspection report to Director Wirth, Miller had the following to say:

The primary function at Pipe Spring is the protection of the old fort and the interpretation of its history to monument visitors. The area elicits real visitor interest.... However, we have a long way to go here. How far we should go and can succeed in developing the fort as a house museum is open to question. I am inclined to like Mr. Steen's suggestion that we furnish a few rooms carefully as a starter and withhold the rest of the fort from the public, opening it only as really adequate furnishings can be provided.... I know this matter is being studied both by officials of Zion National Park and in the Regional Office and that progress will be made. It has remained quiescent as a project far too long except for Acting Superintendent Heaton's indefatigable efforts to accumulate authentic historic objects.... Mr. Heaton's interest is genuine and enthusiastic.

Pipe Spring is an oasis in the desert which it would be a pleasure to visit even if it had not history. With the delightful story which can be presented there, it seems to me that it cannot fail to become increasingly popular. Its future will be affected also by the construction of the road from Hurricane to Fredonia... which we expect to be built within the next three years. [1695]

Assistant Superintendent Art Thomas was appointed superintendent at Mesa Verde National Park, effective September 1, 1958. His replacement was Charles E. Humberger. On September 6, 1958, Landscape Architect Ronald Mortimore, and Engineers Paul J. Garber and Ralph Stratton (all Western Division, Office of Design and Construction, or WODC) arrived at the monument to make plans for surveying the monument for development purposes. A Park Service engineer also arrived two days later to look over the proposed alignment for the new bypass road south of the monument. On September 19 the monument received a visit from Utah State officials, Senator Arthur V. Watkins and Governor George D. Clyde. On September 30 Engineers Stratton and Mortimore returned to the monument with Park Engineer Ed Bossler. The men spent three days conducting surveys for utilities, service roads, and buildings.

On September 13, 1958, the monument's diesel generator broke down. A Zion mechanic tried to fix it but was unable to. While waiting several weeks for parts for the diesel plant, the Heatons and McKown used a noisy, gasoline-powered backup plant. The backup plant's motor fluctuated so much that it burnt out light bulbs and nearly burned out the motor on the Heaton's refrigerator. Heaton worked on the diesel plant for over a month trying to locate the problem.

Heaton went to Zion for the staff meeting and supplies in early October 1958 and later wrote in his journal, "It was cut short so the fellows could listen to the World Series baseball game. Wish there was such a game every staff meeting." [1696] Architect Wilkenson (WODC) and Park Engineer Bossler came out to the monument on October 10 to go over development plans for monument. McKown worked during October and November on cataloguing additions to the museum's collection. (In the spring of 1959, Regional Curator Franklin G. Smith lauded McKown's accessioning as "a model for museum records.") On November 2, 1958, Regional Architect Ken Saunders, Regional Archeologist Charlie Steen, and Assistant Superintendent Humberger visited the monument to discuss the fort's rehabilitation needs. The monument was authorized to spend $16,700 on projects and the money had to be spent by June 30, 1959. Steen was assigned the task of preparing a priority list. Heaton began work on locating carpenters, masons, and laborers to do the work. Ray Mose was rehired in December. Heaton also arranged that month for carpenter Clair Ford of Kanab to work on the upcoming fort restoration project and agreed to hire Wesley McAllister by the hour to make repairs to antique furnishings. He planned to hire additional laborers as needed from Moccasin.

1959

Some of the most extensive restoration and repair work on the fort was conducted during the first six months of 1959. (See "Historic Buildings, The Fort" section for details.) The fort's windows and south door were rocked up so that the fort would appear as it did shortly after construction. A great deal of interior work was done as well, including replacement of the wood floors in the parlor and kitchen. In addition to fort restoration work, in February and March work was done to try to locate the spring source and redirect its flow into the spring room. (See "Ponds, Fish, Fowl, and Springs" section.) Repair work on the rock walls flanking the fort and surrounding the fort ponds was also completed during the summer of 1959. The closing up of the windows required the later installation of a lighting system. Funds were also used to have fort furnishings repaired and to start purchasing additional pieces for the collection, an effort that continued into the early 1960s.

In January 1959 Arthur Woodward completed his research on Pipe Spring and period furnishings and submitted his 28-page report entitled "Details for Furnishing House Museum at Pipe Spring National Monument." The report provided a room-by-room inventory of the museum collection on display in the fort. At the time, the east room of the lower building's second floor was described as a "catch-all" for a display of Indian materials (basketry and a small assortment of archeological artifacts). Woodward recommended that the majority of these materials be removed to the east cabin, with a few left as "curios" on corner whatnot shelves in the house. One of the rooms in the east cabin contained a loom which Woodward thought should be disposed of (the Hopkins blacksmith tool collection was displayed in the other room of the cabin). Woodward made no reference to the west cabin, suggesting that it may not have been used at the time for displays of any kind. Woodward suggested that "Mrs. Heaton" (probably Leonard's mother, Maggie Heaton) and some of the other local Mormon women should be allowed to arrange some of the furniture in the rooms. [1697] Except for the spring room and telegraph room where Woodward was more specific about furnishings, the report provided general suggestions for furnishing the rooms in a manner that would have been typical for the period and place. It argued most strongly for the removal of "extraneous material, tools, broken objects, minerals, etc." and for the purchase of other objects more appropriate as furnishings.

100. Panoramic view of Pipe Spring National Monument, February 5, 1959 (Pipe Spring National Monument, negs. 2780- A and 2780- B).

In March 1959 Charlie Steen visited the monument and critiqued the monument's use of self-guided leaflets. In a memorandum to Regional Chief of Interpretation Erik Reed, he wrote, "The monument staff is currently experimenting with a self-guiding leaflet for visitors. The nature of the exhibits is such that I believe we should stay away from the self-guiding business at Pipe Spring.... I wish to urge that if it is decided to continue with any form of self-guidance that the leaflet be rewritten. It now consists principally of a series of descriptions of objects which are on display and has too little concerning the building or its history." [1698] The leaflet was revised and reprinted in 1960. While self-guided tours posed a security risk for museum objects, they were often seen as necessary by monument staff due to a shortage of personnel.

In the spring of 1959, both Zion and Pipe Spring staff began a concerted effort to locate and purchase some additional historic furnishings for the fort exhibit. On May 4, 1959, Superintendent Franke, Leonard Heaton, and Charlie Steen went to Salt Lake City to tour the Daughters of Utah Pioneers' Museum and Pioneer Village to see what types of furnishings should be purchased for the fort. During the summer and fall, Lloyd Sandberg and Carl Jepson purchased additional furnishings. [1699] The pieces were placed in the fort as soon as they were delivered. In October the coal oil lamps were converted to electric, for the first time running on power from the monument's diesel plant.

After the fort's windows were infilled in January 1959, Heaton's office space was so dark he remarked in his journal that he needed lights in order to see his work. [1700] He was soon to have his office relocated away from the fort, however. Zion officials thought it would be three or four years before the new visitor center was built. On March 12 Zion maintenance worker Ward Axtel brought in what Heaton described as "an old beat up trailer house" from Zion to be used as the new monument office. [1701] An estimated $300 was needed to fix it up. It took several months of repairs before the trailer could be occupied.

101. Leonard Heaton in front of the office trailer, August 20, 1959 (Pipe Spring National Monument, neg. 15,299).

Jim McKown was away from the monument from February 1 until May 5, 1959, attending the Park Service's Training Center in Yosemite National Park. Kelly Heaton filled in for McKown on Heaton's two days off while the ranger was in training. McKown returned just in time to help Heaton get the monument ready for Establishment Day, held again on May 30. (Shortly after his return, Kelly Heaton died. See "Accidents, Deaths, Missing Persons, and Heaton Family Matters" section.) A week prior to the event, McKown washed all the windows of the fort and cabins; Mose cleaned all the furnishings and floors; Clair Ford and Harvey L. ("Harry") Judd finished renovating the trailer office; and Heaton completed restoring the old telegraph line. The trailer was moved to a location south of the old parking area (below the fort and monument road), facing north. On May 29 McKown and Heaton moved all the equipment, books, and papers that would fit from the fort to the new office. What wouldn't fit was stored in the garage. The small trailer served as office space for both Heaton and McKown. Heaton's old office had been in the fort for 33 years.

On Establishment Day in 1959, there was more than the usual activity on the monument. The program included Superintendent Franke, Jim McKown, Carl Jepson, Kumen Jones, and Charles C. Heaton. A crowd of 250 attended the event, with numbers considerably boosted by the Kanab Stake Beehive girls - between 75 and 100 in number - who were holding their "award and swarm day" in the picnic area that day. The speakers delivered the program in front of the newly restored fort. Jepson spoke about monument's efforts to restore the fort's interior rooms to the 1870s period. Franke described fort restoration activities undertaken as part of Mission 66 and talked about future development plans. He showed the crowd the 1940 Historic American Building Survey drawings and photographs of the fort upon which restoration work was based, thereby generating a great deal of interest and promises of furnishing donations. Once the event was over, McKown used his spare time to research and write the monument's historical handbook, a project initiated by Lloyd Sandberg. He continued working on this project the following year.

In early June 1959, a reporter from the Salt Lake Tribune visited the monument to write a story on the recent restoration activity. Heaton later noted that the man took a lot of pictures of the fort and ongoing restoration activities (both movie and still photography). The reporter told Heaton his article would be published in several magazines during that summer and fall. On June 17 Heaton attended staff meeting in Zion, where he learned that McKown's transfer application was in the regional office for action. That day, he reluctantly turned back to Zion about $2,000 of unexpended rehabilitation funds, vowing later in his journal to spend it faster the next time!

By the end of June, all the interior fort work had been completed. Heaton terminated Harry Judd's employment, but kept Ray Mose and Clair Ford on as laborers. He also hired Allen Drye, a Kaibab Paiute man, in July. During July construction of the two new residences began (see "Planning and Development" section). Carl Jepson brought more furnishings for the fort as well as a tape recording of the first telegraph message sent over the line from Pipe Spring. The recording was to be used in the telegraph exhibit. Mose and Drye worked on laying a new sidewalk from the fort to the office trailer. McKown continued work on the historical handbook and on museum cataloguing, projects he did whenever he could find the time. On July 12 Landscape Architect Al Kuehl, (WODC) came by the monument for the first time since 1940. Kuehl was heavily involved with Pipe Spring development during the 1930s. Heaton expressed pleasure in seeing Kuehl again after 19 years. The two men discussed the landscaping of residence area, roads, walks around the fort, and future developments. From time to time (according to Heaton's journals), Camp DG-44 veterans would also stop by the monument to reminisce.

On July 21, 1959, at 10:40 a.m., a strong earthquake shook the area. The quake was felt and heard over a wide area in northern Arizona and southern Utah. Heaton later reported, "Ray Mose, Allen Drye, and myself were just outside the fort, southeast corner, and felt the quaking of the ground.... On investigation we found some 30 or more new cracks in walls and ceiling [of the fort] both inside and out. Some plaster knocked off walls. The spring ran dirty water for five to seven hours." [1702]

In the last few days of July 1959, Clair Ford restored an old flour bin for the fort's kitchen and built racks to hold garbage cans; Ray Mose and Allen Drye completed the walkway to the office. On July 28 Drye was arrested and taken by the sheriff for burglary, abruptly ending his employment at the monument. On the same day, Assistant Regional Director H. L. Bill made an inspection of Pipe Spring National Monument. In his report to Regional Director Miller, he stated, "The appearance [of the monument] is now better than I have ever seen it. I would think those visiting the fort would gain a great deal more from a visit now than would have been the case several years ago. Of the various areas visited on this trip, the greatest improvement has taken place at Pipe Spring." [1703]

102. Excavation of Whitmore-McIntyre dugout, undated; probably August 1959 (Courtesy NPS Intermountain Region, Denver).

In August 1959 Heaton made several trips to the sawmill to pick up lumber for use in the east and west cabins. All restoration and furnishing efforts up to this time in the year were focused on the fort. Now the east cabin was to be furnished as a stable, blacksmith and carpenter shop, and the west cabin as a barracks or "bunkhouse," as it came to be known. During August Clair Ford built a carpenter's workbench, tables, and chairs for the east cabin, then worked on furnishings for the bunkhouse. In September Heaton began to set up the east cabin display. That month Ford made three bunk beds that were placed in the west cabin. He also made a new water trough to replace the old one at the fort. [1704] In October Ford and Mose installed the new trough as well as a fireplace hearth in the west cabin. In late November and December, Ford built a blacksmith forge, workbench, and box for the east cabin.

McKown took two week's annual leave in September, during which time Edna Heaton assisted with fort tours. (In the recent past Kelly Heaton had filled in during McKown's absences, if it was on one of Leonard Heaton's days off. Since Kelly's death, however, Heaton had found it "too much red tape" to hire someone else quickly.) During the month, work on the new residences progressed, but Heaton was none too happy with what would be his family's new home. Unlike in the 1930s and 1940s, when Heaton was encouraged to give input in the design process (and listened to), it appears that he wasn't shown plans for these residences until they had been finalized and approved. As his long-awaited residence took shape, Heaton complained in his journal, "Finding more things I don't like about the building. Too small [a] bathtub, hot water tank, and furnace; too cramped quarters. Bedroom windows too large and low down." [1705] Perhaps, after waiting for so many years, the Heatons were hoping for something nicer, but Zion officials were forced to keep costs below $20,000 per residence.

On August 5, 1959, Regional Archeologist Zorro Bradley and a crew of two excavated the Whitmore-McIntyre dugout, the site of the first structure built by white settlers at Pipe Spring, which was discovered in 1936 (see Part I for history). During the previous June, Assistant Superintendent Humberger had requested assistance from the regional office to excavate the dugout. Zion officials hoped that it might contain evidence that would be helpful in furnishing and interpreting the fort. Excavation work began on August 5 and ended on August 15, 1959. Ray Mose assisted Bradley in the work, doing much of the digging. Unfortunately, in Bradley's words, "very little artifactual material was recovered." [1706]

While a number of people wanted the dugout to be reconstructed (some of James Whitmore's descendants and Leonard Heaton, for example), the decision was made to backfill the site. Heaton had placed reconstruction of the dugout as his first priority for work in 1959. Erik Reed, however, recommended backfilling to afford the best protection to the dugout because, he said, "The dirt and clay walls, as well as the remaining crude masonry walls would be almost impossible to maintain." [1707] Reed suggested locating surface markers and an easel exhibit at the site. Superintendent Franke concurred with his recommendation, which must have been quite a disappointment to Heaton. Mose backfilled the dugout in December 1959. In September 1961 the grandson of James M. Whitmore, Junius L. Whitmore of Redlands, California, wrote Secretary of the Interior Stewart Udall requesting the Department of the Interior restore the dugout and erect a monument marker there. [1708] Zion's Superintendent Francis R. Oberhansley turned down Heaton's request to restore the dugout again in August 1962. A plaque was eventually erected near the Whitmore-McIntyre dugout in April 1963.

Superintendent Franke and Historian Bob Utley visited the monument on September 18, 1959, to review construction and maintenance work. Utley sent a report to Erik Reed describing the visit and his impressions. He noted that "there is almost no documentary source material on which to base the approach to the problem [of furnishings]." [1709] While Woodward's report made recommendations on how a typical Utah or Arizona pioneer home of the period would be furnished, it provided no information specific to what the Pipe Spring fort actually had. Accounts by old-timers indicated early furnishings would have been very crude, but that later furnishings would have been more refined. Utley approved of a mixture of the two, "the crude and the civilized," which was the approach being taken at Pipe Spring. Utley did not think it feasible to represent Pipe Spring "in its earliest pioneer state," both because the artifacts could probably not be found and because the result would produce "severely bare and uninteresting rooms." The compromise reached was to furnish the fort as it probably appeared during the "transitional period" (ca. 1879-1882), when some refinements had been introduced yet the pioneer furnishings were still very much in evidence. Utley commended Heaton and McKown for the aged finishes on reproduction furnishings, some "worthy of a professional museum technician," he thought. (Such work was not done by either Heaton or McKown but most likely by Harry Judd, who seems to have been the local expert on finishing furniture to make it look old.) He ended his report by stating, "I believe Pipe Spring is making large strides in the right direction. The contrast between the appearance of the fort now and when I first visited it two years ago is very striking." [1710]

In the fall of 1959, McKown made several trips to St. George to continue research for the monument's historical handbook. In November Heaton worked on an article for publication in a book on Kane County entitled, "A Brief History of Moccasin."

1960

Superintendent Paul R. Franke left Zion National Park at the end of 1959. [1711] His successor was Francis R. Oberhansley, who came on duty January 1, 1960. Oberhansley appears to have had a habit of dropping by the monument to inspect it or to see Heaton unannounced. On a number of occasions, it was Heaton's day off and Heaton would be away on personal business, which always seemed to annoy Oberhansley. Heaton's journals frequently refer to Oberhansley as being rather critical, usually related to matters of neatness, either of the facilities or of Heaton's personal appearance. The new superintendent expected him to be always clean and in full uniform. Heaton wondered how he was supposed to always look clean and well-pressed when in fact he still had to do much maintenance work around the monument.

In March 1960 Jim McKown submitted a draft of the Pipe Spring National Monument historical handbook to Zion and regional office staff for review. He then began working on the history narrative for the Mission 66 master plan. Probably the high point of the spring was the arrival of commercial power to the monument in April which enabled the Heatons and McKown to move into the new residences (see "The Final Push for Power" section). For a time, Heaton used the old residence for temporary storage. Ray Mose and Grant Heaton were on duty the most as laborers during 1960, with Harry Judd and Clifford K. Heaton hired for short-term projects. That summer Ray Mose worked on peeling 100 cedar posts and replacing deteriorated posts in the monument's boundary fence. Landscaping of the new residences and construction of walkways, a new visitor parking area, and service roads were also completed in the late summer and early fall. (See "Walkways" and "Planning and Development" sections.)

On August 24, 1960, during construction work on the monument's new parking area and service roads, two fire pits were unearthed. They were described as about 18 inches square, at a depth of two feet. Potsherds and a broken projectile point were also picked up in the area. [1712] On September 19 Assistant Superintendent Humberger made an inspection visit to check on the construction work. While he was there the drainage wash was being changed near the site of the new parking area. The construction crew ran into an old CCC retaining wall on the west side of wash and the men became quite excited thinking they had discovered an old wall, perhaps of the fort's era. Heaton of course, knew otherwise, as he had been there when the CCC boys worked on the flood diversion project in 1939. (The "stone wall" was most likely a remnant of the stone box culvert constructed then.) Later Heaton wrote of the incident in his journal, "There are a lot of things on this monument no one but me knows anything about. They were put in just temporarily and were not located on maps and plans." [1713]

Heaton was on sick leave a good deal in May 1960 with back problems from a pinched nerve. He saw a specialist in Mesa, Arizona, about the problem. On May 30, Establishment Day, the program of speakers included Superintendent Oberhansley, Anson P. Winsor III, Jim McKown, and Leonard Heaton. [1714] On June 15, 1960, Charlie Steen visited the monument to see how the fort looked after the restoration and furnishing work of 1959 and early 1960. He commented in a report to Erik Reed, "The buildings at Pipe Spring no longer look as though the Monument were an unwanted orphan. With the Art Woodward report as a guide the monument staff, with assists from Zion, have created a most attractive historic house exhibit." [1715] He noted that rooms were lighted by concealed spotlights and was pleased to see no labels on furnishings. Steen's primary recommendation was that some replicas of equipment used in the cheese room be added to make it appear less barren, and that labels be used in this room only, as most visitors would not be familiar with such equipment.

McKown had asked for a lateral transfer to a protection division of a larger park in May 1959. He was unhappy working at Pipe Spring ("Too lonely" for him, Heaton wrote in his journal. A later entry says that the park historian was "mostly lonely for his girl who won't come down here to live. Would like a transfer to get away where there is more activity and people." [1716] ) McKown really longed to return to Yellowstone. He turned down a transfer to Bandelier National Monument in August that year, saying it wasn't a large enough park. Finally, a position opened up at Grand Canyon National Park. McKown was transferred to the South Rim on June 30, 1960, after two years and five months at Pipe Spring. [1717] Heaton later wrote in his journal that he thought McKown did good work, but that his being Catholic placed him at a disadvantage when it came to talking about Mormon history at Pipe Spring. [1718] (In late August 1999, Jim McKown, at age 71, returned to Pipe Spring to see the site and to reminisce about his time there, 40 years earlier. He is now living in Missoula, Montana. He characterizes his time at Pipe Spring as "a long, lonely two and a half years, which now oddly seems somehow central to my life." [1719])

It took about six weeks to hire another park historian, during which time Leonard P. Heaton (paid) and Edna Heaton (unpaid) assisted with tours. On August 22 McKown's successor, Max P. Peterson, arrived at Pipe Spring, accompanied by a wife and child. Heaton wrote of them in his journal: "They are nice people and just out of college last spring in Logan, Utah." [1720] After a week of training at Zion, Peterson assumed the duties of park historian at the monument on August 29. When he attended a staff meeting in September, Chief Ranger Jim Felton told the park historian (in Heaton's words), "that Pipe Spring National Monument should never have been established in the first place, [it was] just an accident, but now that we have it, we have to paint it red so people will like it and to justify our spending money on it. Felton is a Mormon hater and can't see any good in anything they do or have done." [1721] This could only have heightened Heaton's sense of the monument being an unwanted "step-child" in the eyes of Zion officials.

In addition to giving tours of the fort, that fall Max Peterson worked on the Mission 66 master plan outline and catalogued museum artifacts and library books. In his Annual Report on Information and Interpretation for 1960, Peterson reported a new method of counting visitors was being used that excluded through traffic, which had been previously counted. Thus while visitation showed a decline from 1959, the figures in fact gave a more accurate picture of visitation to the monument. All interpretive services were by personal contact, but the use of a self-guiding leaflet was being considered for times when guides were unavailable. The self-guided nature trail and associated geologic display, first proposed in 1938, had yet to be constructed as well as the visitor center and water system. The year's most important accomplishments were the completion of the draft historical handbook and the restoration and furnishing of most of the fort rooms and the cabins. The two upstairs rooms in the north building had yet to be furnished. [1722]

At the end of 1960, Heaton confided in his journal that while he had "gotten use" to the family's new home, he didn't much like the overhead heating that left the floor always cold. He looked forward to spring when he could do more landscaping around the residence. Perhaps most of all, Heaton hoped Max Peterson would like his new position at the monument as park historian and not get bored or lonesome, the way McKown had. Heaton envisioned Peterson taking over for him when he retired. He ended his journal entry for December 31 on a somewhat pensive note:

So ends another year, making almost 35 years I have lived at the monument, spending hundreds of dollars of the government to preserve and interpret the western pioneer life of this area to thousands of visitors, most of which I believe were pleased with their visit. Three more years and I will have 30 years of retirement service so I will quit and do something, visit other areas. [1723]

1961

On February 8, 1961, the 35th anniversary of his coming to work at Pipe Spring, Leonard Heaton reminisced in his journal (as he often did at such times) about all the progress that had been made since 1926. Gone were the cattle, the cowboys and horses, the chuck wagons. No one had lived in the fort for 25 years. He was rightfully proud of all that had been accomplished under his tenure, particularly all the Mission 66 developments. He noted that annual allotments for the monument's administration had gone from $300 when he first came to $20,000 in 1961. With the completion of the Hurricane-Fredonia road anticipated, visitation would soar from 10,000 perhaps to as high as 60,000 in five years, he speculated. [1724] As it turned out, visitation only increased about 50 percent, from 10,465 in 1961 to 16,181 in 1966.

Furnishing of the fort continued, as Heaton and Peterson (and later his successor) did their best to acquire and arrange displays in ways that were appealing and conveyed information about the area's early history. Early in the year, Heaton made trips to Panguitch, Enterprise, St. George, Cedar City, Kanab, and other towns hunting for and purchasing "old relics" for the fort.

103. Seven Zion National Park superintendents, assembled at Zion for the dedication of its new visitor center, June 17, 1961. From left to right: Frank R. Oberhansley, Paul R. Franke, Charles J. Smith, Preston P. Patraw, Thomas J. Allen, Eivind T. Scoyen, and Richard T. Evans. (Courtesy Zion National Park, neg. 3332-A).

Shortly after the new residences were constructed, Heaton was contacted on several occasions with requests from the Kaibab Paiute to buy the old residence for reuse. He decided in November 1960 to let it go. [1725] On April 26, 1961, the old board-and-batten infirmary that the Heatons had lived in since 1940 was partially dismantled by Kaibab Paiute men to be moved to Kaibab Village. By May 10 it had been taken out in four sections. [1726] Heaton reported during the moving process, "Some very tight squeezes getting [it] out of the monument." [1727] The previous year (in May 1960) Ray Mose had removed the underground fuel storage tank, the 3/4-inch copper pipeline, and the underground electric cable associated with the old residence. [1728] In June 1960 Mose dismantled then filled in the old CCC-era storage cellar used by the Heatons for storage. By this time, there was little evidence of the monument's first residence.

No Establishment Day celebration was held at the monument in 1961. In May 1961 Clair Ford built 10 new wooden picnic tables and benches while Ray Mose cut up the five remaining old CCC poplar log tables for firewood. The new tables were placed in the campground in July. The main project undertaken in June was the construction of the east entrance sign (see "Planning and Development" section). On July 5, 1961, Heaton received a 30-year service pin at the Zion staff meeting. On the same day, he drove back to the monument in a new green Chevy pickup truck, having traded in the old 1952 Chevy pickup.

Rattlesnakes seemed more abundant than usual at the monument in August 1961. Seven were killed on the monument just during the first half of the month, some near the residences and office trailer. Superintendent Oberhansley made an inspection visit on August 10, 1961, while Max Peterson was on duty. It was a week-day and Heaton's day off. Heaton received a letter the following week directing him to take his day off during the weekend and chastising him for Peterson's evaporative cooler being out of order and for the restrooms not being clean. Oberhansley also objected to the messy barn area and animals there (cows and sheep) and to some of the kinds of work Heaton had Mose doing.

Leonard and Edna Heaton were both upset by the tone of the letter. Heaton later wrote in his journal, "It looks like the Supt. Oberhansley is trying to find something to get me out before I retire. I know that a lot of men would like to see this monument abandoned just because it is Mormon history and such. If I have 30 years of service in by the time spring comes around they can have the place as I will be 60 years old and eligible for retirement, which I will take." [1729] Heaton had been taking his days off during the week so that he could cover the monument on weekends, when the park historian was off-duty. By shifting his days off to the weekend, the monument was left with no one on duty, a situation Heaton found appallingly insensitive to the needs of visitors. On August 20 he wrote in his journal, "Beginning today, by orders of the Supt. [of] Zion Park, my free day will be Sunday and Saturday, so officially I am not on duty or the fort open. But [out of] common decency to the visiting public I opened the fort and had some members of the family [there] 2 hours and I was here on duty 7 hours, having 56 visitors. Someone here practically all the time." [1730] The following spring Heaton asked Zion officials for permission to hire a seasonal guide for the weekends but his request was turned down.

To make matters worse, Max Peterson resigned his park historian position at the monument on August 19, 1961, to teach school in American Falls, Idaho. Peterson told Heaton he and his family didn't care for the remoteness of the site and felt his job lacked advancement opportunities. Heaton was disappointed to lose him and later mused in his journal, "I know it is harder for young people these days of fast activities than when I came here at the beginning of auto days. I was in hopes they would stay to take over when I leave." [1731] Peterson had been at Pipe Spring just short of one year. His successor, Robert ("Bob") W. Olsen, Jr., began duty as park historian on August 28. Olsen was from Salt Lake City, where his wife and four children remained. [1732] From time to time, Olsen's wife would drive down with the children, or Olsen would bring his wife and children (or sometimes just the children) to the monument for brief visits. During the last two weeks of September, Olsen was in Zion for orientation training. After returning to the monument, in addition to providing guide service, Olsen engaged in historical research. His initial research included reviewing old diaries and the John Wesley Powell journals (which appeared in Utah Historical Quarterly), and locating suitable pictures for use in the historical handbook. [1733] Olsen noticed right away that visitors to the monument were often curious about the local Indians and their history, so he began preparing an outline on that topic along with making a study of early trappers and Mormon settlers of the area. [1734]

On October 19, 1961, during one of his research trips, Bob Olsen had an auto accident in Johnson Canyon. The Park Service truck he was driving left the road and rolled over into a wash. He was uninjured, but the truck sustained $410 in damages. Several Zion officials came out on October 25, one to question Olsen about the accident and visit the scene where it occurred, and another to talk with Ray Mose about the permanent caretaker's position that was to be funded. Heaton wanted to hire Mose for the position, but feared Mose's lack of electrical and carpentry skills might prevent him from meeting the position's requirements. [1735] At the end of the year, Zion informed Heaton that because of the monument's low visitation, there wasn't enough work there to justify hiring a permanent caretaker. None was hired in 1962 or in 1963. Ray Mose continued to work as a seasonal, part-time laborer at the monument during those years. Other laborers employed part-time or seasonally during the early 1960s included Grant Heaton, Sherwin Heaton, Clifford Heaton, Clair Ford, and Harry Judd. Leonard P. Heaton was hired from time to time to provide guide service. Not infrequently, Edna Heaton and son Claren were also pressed into guide service.

Bob Olsen prepared the 1961 Annual Report on Information and Interpretation, reporting an increase in visitation that was attributed to improved roads. Plans were still being made for the nature trail along the old quarry trail, but no funds were available for its construction. Olsen reported that visitors, especially those from outside the area, found that "... the Indians are as interesting as the pioneers. We are looking forward to the time when we will be able to [do] a better job of interpretation by a display of Indian artifacts in the projected visitor center." [1736]

The flock of Gambel quail introduced to the monument in 1938 was still in evidence more than 20 years later. Heaton reported in November 1961 that about 100 of them were at their "old roosting place," the willow patch at the monument's southwest corner. Coyotes and bobcats were still quite common, and Heaton reported that coyote howls could often be heard in the morning and evening at Pipe Spring. [1737]

1962

The new year started off on an unusually climatic note in 1962. On January 4 Heaton reported,

At 7:45 a.m. had a baby tornado hit the monument. A heavy mass of clouds passed from northwest to southeast over the area and with it and the winds, blowing in every direction. At the same time [it] picked up dust, tumbleweeds, trash, and small loose material whistling through the trees, around buildings. A narrow streak of dust would be going in one direction then suddenly change and take off in another direction. Whirlwinds everywhere. [1738]

No damage was reported. On February 15 the area experienced several earth tremors, but no visible damage occurred.

In late January 1962, Carl Jepson and Harvey Davis came from Zion to inventory and assess the value of the monument's collection. Heaton had not included values for items under $50 in his previous inventory, so Jepson and Davis spent some time assessing the value of those items. On February 20 while updating museum records, Heaton and Olsen worked in the office trailer and listened to the newscast of John Glenn's orbit around the earth. A week later, Heaton contacted Ray Mose to rehire him for the following month as seasonal laborer. After business was taken care of that day, Mose told Heaton the story of where the Paiute came from:

Old Grandma living along on the west coast sent for an old Indian from the east coast to come to her as she had something for him to do. When he got to her, he had a big cotton bag tied tight with a string and [she] told the old man to take the bag on his back and go as far north as he could and if he heard any singing, talking, or noises in the sack, not to open it. The old man put the sack on his back, [it was] very light, not heavy to carry a long way. After he had gone quite a way, [he] heard singing and talking in the bag, so he set it down [and] decided to see what was in the bag. So he started to untie the string and just as soon as it was loose, the bag flew wide open. And before he could close it, a lot of Indians jumped out and scattered all over the country. He finally got it tied again and went on his way but when he got into this country he got tired and untied the bag and dumped all the rest of the Indians out and they were the Paiutes. [1739]

On March 13, 1962, Assistant Regional Director George C. Miller visited Pipe Spring. Heaton discussed with him several ideas to restore the historic landscape. Heaton had three projects in mind: 1) reconstruction of a corral at the north end of the east cabin, using old cedar posts; 2) reconstruction or repairs to the old lime kiln, located just west of the west cabin; and 3) reconstruction of a stake-and-rider fence from the west cattle guard to a point 400 feet east (south of the monument road), using old materials. [1740] A few days later, Heaton wrote to Rulon Langston in Hurricane to inquire if there was an old corral or fencing on his property or in his locale that could be obtained for that purpose. On March 26 Heaton met with Oberhansley and Humberger at Zion and brought up the proposal to them. They requested a sketch map and cost estimates for the projects, which he submitted soon after. Heaton had $3,000 in monument funds he wished to spend on these projects that spring, knowing the money would otherwise revert back to Zion's coffer. While awaiting final approval, Heaton located several ranchers in Rockville and Hurricane willing to give or sell him old fencing. Heaton reported the first federal audit to take place at the monument was completed on March 16.

Meanwhile, Oberhansley forwarded Heaton's proposal and cost estimates to the regional office in early April 1962 and asked for their recommendations. Regional Director Thomas J. Allen had little enthusiasm for Heaton's proposal, opining that the construction costs plus future maintenance would be better spent on other projects. "It does not seem to us that these reconstructed features would add much to the area," he wrote Oberhansley. Allen also stated, "We shall not, however, offer any serious objection if you wish to proceed with the project." [1741] Oberhansley forwarded Allen's response to Heaton with the suggestion that Heaton erect interpretive signage in lieu of reconstructing the landscape features, and offered Zion's assistance in preparing the signs. Heaton was no doubt disappointed, but soon after he retired his fencing proposal was implemented.

Olsen was the first park historian to file monthly narrative reports to Heaton, beginning in 1962. They were quite detailed, including visitation figures, notable visitors, and research and interpretive activities. Olsen worked in the spring of 1962 on a self-guiding tour leaflet for visitors to the monument, for those occasions when staff could not accompany them through the fort. He completed the leaflet in May, in time for the summer travel season. The "Self-Guiding Tour of Pipe Spring" pointed out the most significant artifacts in rooms and described their function. The leaflet also included some background history of the site. Also in May Olsen located the Powell survey baseline that ran from Kanab to about three miles south of Fredonia. [1742] In June Olsen tracked down two Powell survey markers in the area, one at Lamb Point, five miles east of Pipe Spring, and one on a ridge north of Navajo Well, 20 miles east of Kanab. In September he located two more, one three miles east of Fredonia on Lost Spring Cliff and one three miles south of Fredonia. [1743]

During August 1962, Regional Curator Franklin G. Smith visited the monument to inspect the collection and discuss preservation, acquisition, and record keeping with the staff. Smith later reported that the exhibits were well-arranged, the area neat and clean, and the "enthusiasm of the staff infectious." [1744] The monument also had a visit from Regional Historian Bob Utley in late September. It had been three years since Utley had seen the fort's displays and he was favorably impressed with the changes that had taken place. "The presentation of the Pipe Spring story has been improved vastly since my last visit," he reported to George C. Miller. "A tour of the fort is now a much more meaningful experience than it was before." [1745] Utley recommended "a labeling scheme... to identify the more prominent specimens, and also to give a brief historical explanation of each room." [1746] A guidebook was suggested as either an alternative or supplement to labels. Utley noted that Olsen had a real interest in research and encouraged him to work on revisions to the draft historical handbook prepared by his predecessors. Olsen's research continued that summer and included trips to the Church historian's office and Utah Historical Society in Salt Lake City. Utley also suggested that funds be found at Zion to send Olsen to Denver to investigate uncatalogued Powell survey photos in the United States Geological Survey's (USGS) collection. (It is unknown if this work was ever done.)

An increase in visitation to Pipe Spring was reported at the staff meeting of July 5, 1962, as construction on the Hurricane-Fredonia road progressed. The influx of visitors led to increased pot-hunting in the ruins south of the monument. Bob Olsen even found officers of the Pacific Coast Archaeological Society hunting for relics there for their museum in California. He directed them to the Tribe, which granted them permission to collect materials from the surface. In June Olsen suggested to Ray Mose that he make a sign to warn people away from the mounds south of the monument, which he did. [1747]

Visitors to the monument, as in summers past, frequently came between the hours of 4 p.m. and 8 p.m. Continuous standing was often required of the guides. During the spring and summer of 1962, Heaton had difficulty standing and giving tours due to considerable pain in his legs. [1748] By summer's end, he agreed to have surgery in hopes it would increase the circulation in his legs. He underwent the operation in early October. While he took nearly six weeks' sick and annual leave to recuperate, former park historian Lloyd Sandberg came over from Hurricane and provided monument guide service on the weekends. Sandberg also filled in when Olsen took annual leave.

1963

Olsen's research efforts continued during 1963, beginning in January with an attempt to track down the accuracy and source of the legend about the Pipe Spring name. [1749] In late February Olsen conducted research at Dixie Junior College in St. George, where he discovered several ledgers, one containing entries about the Winsor Stock Growing Company, with entries dating 1873-1880, and two minute books of the Board of Directors of the Canaan Cooperative Cattle Company. He returned several times in March to examine the records in more detail. In February Olsen typed transcriptions of letters hand-written by early settlers during the 1930s (at Heaton's request), telling of their experiences at or near Pipe Spring. He also typed interviews with early settlers conducted by Heaton, presumably using Heaton's notes. Olsen continued historical research in St. George and Salt Lake City in March. He returned to St. George twice in May to work with two ledgers at Dixie Junior College. Olsen also located documents related to the purchase of Pipe Spring from B. F. Saunders by David D. Bulloch and Lehi W. Jones, and the sale between Bulloch and Jones to A. D. Findlay (these would later be useful in documenting the chain of ownership). On a more personal note, during May Heaton wrote in his journal that Olsen was in the midst of a divorce, which was finalized before the end of the summer.

In June 1963 the U.S. Weather Service selected Pipe Spring as a site for a weather station and installed equipment there. The month prior, in May, Heaton began constructing a new home for his family in Moccasin, using up his annual leave during the summer to work on it. In early June Heaton informed Zion's Assistant Superintendent Russell E. Dickenson of his intent to resign. Later that month, Superintendent Oberhansley visited the monument and asked Heaton if he wouldn't stay on longer. Heaton later wrote in his journal, "I said if he would give me a raise in pay and put a fireplace in the house I might consider staying a year or so. 'OK, we couldn't do that,' he said, so out I go Sept. 15th.... The Supt. did not know where he was going to get someone to take my place, but that is not my worry." [1750] According to Heaton, Olsen was despondent over the thought of him leaving and was not looking forward to taking care of the fort on his own nor working for someone new. He began talking of a transfer or changing professions. Meanwhile Heaton prepared for his family's move. He tore down the last remaining barn and corrals at the monument at the end of July.

In August 1963 Natt Dodge of the regional office visited the monument. Dodge planned to retire the following January. Heaton learned from Dodge that Zion officials planned to recommend the monument be made a separate unit after Heaton's retirement. "Guess they figured I was not capable of handling such a job," he later wrote in his journal. [1751] The administrative change Dodge alluded to did not take place, but the remark reinforced Heaton's feelings of being held in low esteem by his superiors.

On August 3, 1963, a bolt of lightning struck at the head of the meadow, cutting the telephone line and breaking a coupling in the culinary pipeline one foot under ground. Almost three weeks after this event, a retirement picnic and award ceremony was held on August 24 at the monument in honor of the Leonard and Edna Heaton. The Heatons both received a life pass to national parks and monuments. Leonard Heaton also was given a citation for 35 years of commendable service and a bronze metal. "Not much speech making," Heaton later wrote in his journal. [1752] The Heatons moved out of the monument residence at the end of August in order for it to be readied for his successor. Heaton spent his last day on the job (September 14) helping to dig campers out of the sand that had flooded into the campground after heavy rains the night before. In addition to the campground, flooding reached the comfort station and came within just four feet of the new residences. Four of Heaton's sons helped remove all the rest of the family's belongings from the monument that day while Edna and Millicent cleaned the residence. Referring to the scene that day, Heaton later wrote, "I was in hopes that monument would be in excellent condition for the new Supt., but with the flood damage [it's] a sorry mess to come to." [1753] In his final monthly report to Zion, Heaton wrote,

At the close of 37? years of work at Pipe Spring National Monument, I can say Mrs. Heaton and I have enjoyed our stay and the experiences we have had in meeting the visiting public. It has been rich.... From our first director, Mr. Mather, and Boss Pinkley, we feel we received our greatest training and goals in the Park Service. That our first concern was the visitor that came to see our area, all else was secondary. As the saying [goes,] 'Let me live by the side of the road and be a friend to man.' [1754]

It was truly the end of an era at the monument. The local communities would never again have one of "their own" overseeing its operations, nor would anyone spend their entire Park Service career at the site. The personal inconveniences and sacrifices that the Heatons made to care for the site and its visitors over so many years were considerable and probably will never be equaled. Such was made possible by a certain love of the old fort and its site and the couple's deep sense of its importance in American history. The Heatons retired to live in Moccasin, Arizona.

On September 3, 1963, Joseph ("Joe") Bolander entered on duty as the monument's permanent caretaker, shortly prior to Heaton's retirement. [1755] Heaton was genuinely disappointed that Ray Mose wasn't chosen for the position, but Bolander had scored 100 percent when his job application was rated earlier that January. Bolander was a rancher and native of the area. The monument continued to employ Mose as a temporary laborer for several more years. The same day that Heaton retired, Bob Olsen left for the Albright Training Center in Grand Canyon National Park, remaining there until school ended December 7, then took annual leave. In October Heaton's prior GS-7 acting superintendent's position was converted to a management assistant, GS-9. Hugh H. Bozarth was hired to fill the position and reported for duty at Zion on October 14. Bozarth transferred from Death Valley National Monument where he had been a supervisory park ranger, GS-8. In December Bob Olsen's position was reclassified as a GS-7, resulting in a promotion for him. That month the community of Moccasin held a welcome party and dinner for Hugh Bozarth and his wife Lenore at the local Latter-day Saints church.

The Final Push for Power

In December 1956 several public meetings were held in Moccasin with representatives from Rural Electrification Administration (REA) and GarKane Power Company to discuss the possibilities of bringing a power line from Mt. Carmel to the area. Heaton learned later that GarKane was willing to bring a power line into the area if it could sell power to Whiting Brothers Sawmill in Fredonia. On January 9, 1957, Heaton reported two GarKane officials were out "to look over the area, to get acquainted with the land. They feel very sure the power line will be built. They are meeting with Jay Whiting. Power needed at their sawmill operation..." [1756] Negotiations dragged on with the sawmill owners. In February 1959 Heaton talked with a REA board member in Mt. Carmel about power and later wrote, "Was told the survey was made to Fredonia. The money had not been released because the contract with Whiting Sawmill had not been signed." [1757] The sawmill owners were in disagreement with GarKane over the amount of power they would commit to use (and pay for) monthly.

Still, in May 1958 GarKane Power Company official Reed Burr was in the area getting other membership applications for REA approval. [1758] Heaton reported, "A line will be built from Fredonia to Pipe [and] Moccasin. Power will be furnished from Whiting sawmill till power can be brought in from the Boulder [Utah] power plant next year or so." [1759] In August 1958 Burr assured Heaton that work would soon start on the power line from Fredonia to Pipe Spring and Moccasin. "Should have it in this winter," Heaton wrote, rather optimistically. [1760] When Zion's electrical engineer contacted Burr, he was told the application was in Washington, D.C., awaiting approval. GarKane expected to put in a 7,200 volt line from Fredonia to Pipe Spring and Moccasin.

On April 10, 1958, Heaton attended a meeting in Kanab to discuss getting commercial power to Fredonia and Moccasin. GarKane wanted to add a clause in its REA contract that would allow the company to withdraw power from the area if it had a greater demand elsewhere. This was unacceptable to local residents. On December 2 Heaton was informed by Burr that a telegram from Senator Watkins informed the company that the application and power load had been approved for REA to furnish power in five southern Utah counties and two northern Arizona counties, to build a three-unit on the Boulder project, and to construct 189 miles of transmission line.

In March 1959 Heaton learned that Kaibab Lumber Company had signed a contract with REA for power so he was hopeful that commercial power would reach the area by summer, but that was not to be. In mid-April Theodore Drye, Chairman of the Kaibab Paiute Tribal Council, told him that the Indians had granted the right-of-way for both commercial power and roadways over the Kaibab Indian Reservation. On August 18 a contract was signed with REA for a power line to Pipe Spring National Monument.

On August 30, 1959, the monument's diesel power plant broke down. The backup gasoline-powered plant could be used to operate lights only. The Heatons were without hot water and refrigeration for five weeks, cooking on a little tin camp stove and heating water outside in an iron barrel. ("Fun. NO." wrote Heaton in his monthly report. [1761]) GarKane Power Company conducted its area survey and began placing poles and stringing wire for the REA power line from Fredonia to the Monument and Moccasin in October. By late October, the power line crew had strung the line to Moccasin and was on its way to Short Creek. Heaton wrote, "Should have power here in another month." [1762] Weary after 33 years of dealing with faulty or failing generators, the Heatons could hardly wait!

On December 31, 1959, GarKane Power Company's transmission lines were strung to the monument and town of Moccasin, but then followed an interminably long delay in getting power lines to individual homes. Heaton and McKown had to wait through the winter to move into their new residences (completed in December) as the park's diesel plant did not generate sufficient electricity to power them. In the meantime, the homes were landscaped (see "Planning and Development" section). Commercial power was finally turned on in the area on April 8, 1960, although the switch from diesel generator to REA power was not made at the monument until April 18. [1763] The Heatons and McKown moved into their residences on April 11 and 12. The house trailer was returned to Zion the following week and the diesel generator was returned in early May. One bit of good news for Heaton was that his rent did not go up, but remained $10.50 biweekly, not including electricity and fuel oil. In September 1960 the old generator house was razed.

Visitation [1764]

Visitation figures for the monument grew from 6,746 in 1956 to 17,138 in 1963 (see Appendix VI, "Visitation, Pipe Spring National Monument" for annual figures). Two factors that contributed most to the growth were the construction of the Glen Canyon Dam and gradually improving area roads. Heaton also attributed the increase to improvements in the fort exhibits, made possible by Mission 66 funding.

The 1956 Easter weekend (March 31 and April 1) brought 250 visitors on Saturday, when Fredonia had its annual spring outing there, and 347 on a cold, stormy Easter Sunday. Edna Heaton helped her husband with the crowd that day. In April 1956 Heaton was directed to count all travel through the monument. "If I send in such figures my travel count will go up 100 percent for the year," he commented in his journal. [1765] His travel figures distinguished those just passing through and those who visited the fort, picnicked, or camped. The only other large gathering in 1956 was on September 22 when Heaton had a crowd of 200 people for the Moccasin community barbecue. The group used the west side of the meadow for their gathering.

The 1957 Easter weekend brought 668 visitors to the monument. Heaton reported, "Lloyd Sandberg came out to help with the Easter crowd for today and tomorrow. The Fredonia city had its annual Easter outing here at the monument again, some 250 in attendance even though the weather was cold." [1766] One of James M. Whitmore's grandsons visited the monument that weekend. On May 18 a group of 140 men and boys from Zion Park Stake visited the monument and were given a tour by Lloyd Sandberg. That summer, Heaton commented in his journal that quite a lot of people were using the meadow for recreation activities.

For the first time in years, Easter weekend attendance at Pipe Spring for 1958 was rather low, with only 100 visitors. Heaton attributed the decline to "too much cold wind, muddy roads, and bad weather." [1767] On May 4, 1958, Heaton reported, "Community church services were held in the picnic area at noon." [1768] It must have been a lovely setting. The plum trees were in bloom, producing a very fragrant odor. So much cotton from the silverleaf cottonwoods filled the air and rooms in the fort, that Heaton wrote, "At times [it] looked like a snow storm." [1769] This is the only time that Heaton made a record of a church service being held on the monument, aside from regular services held in Camp DG-44 during the late 1930s. At the end of the 1958 travel season, Heaton reported a steady increase in visitors from other countries.

On March 24, 1959, Junius L. Whitmore, grandson of James M. Whitmore, visited the fort. He donated pictures of his grandfather and father, who was the 11-year-old boy left in the dugout when Whitmore and McIntyre set off to find the sheep rustlers. Whitmore told Heaton that his records showed McIntyre was not a brother-in-law, but a hired hand about 20 years of age. [1770] Easter weekend that year fell on March 28 and 29. Heaton hired Kelly Heaton at the fort to help with the Easter crowd. Attendance for the two days was over 400 people.

Leonard Heaton continued to be active in his support for the Boy Scouts of America during the 1950s. It was not unusual for large outings to be held at the monument. On April 13, 1957, Heaton reported, "Sixty-five boy scouts and leaders from Kanab District camped on the monument last night and today took part in the raising of the flag over the fort. Day spent in first aid instruction by Arizona State Patrolmen LaVar Johnson, 22 rifle practice and on handling of guns by Eldon V. Johnson. I took the boys on a 1? hour nature hike back of the hills." [1771] (Even though no formal nature trail had ever been constructed, Heaton occasionally charted one of his own for such groups.) On the evening of August 28, 1959, five busloads of Alton boy scouts and their families had a camp fire program at the monument, with about 150 people attending. Between 1956 and 1963, other outings were held at Pipe Spring with boy scout troops from Cedar City, Yuma, Salt Lake City, and the Kanab District, with numbers ranging from 33 to 175 per group.

The Heatons and Jim McKown moved into their new residences just a few days before Easter weekend 1960. As usual, it was a busy time. Visitation that Saturday and Sunday (April 16 and 17) was an estimated 1,200. Easter weekend in 1961 brought 1,100 visitors and the same holiday in 1962 brought 1,250. (Bob Olsen reported that many who visited the monument that weekend also went to see Pink Coral Sand Dunes, a Utah state park 10 miles north.) During Easter weekend in 1963, 1,078 visitors toured the fort. (The reduced number was attributed to cold, windy weather.) Olsen reported, "Most of the visitors not only visit the buildings and picnic, but they play ball, pitch horseshoes, and in general have a good time." [1772]

On September 1, 1961, Arthur Woolley and his sister Elizabeth Jensen (children of Edwin G. and Flora Snow Woolley) visited the monument and told Heaton they were getting together some of the Woolley relics to put in the fort. They also told him that they were compiling a history of the fort associated with the Woolley period of occupation. [1773] Louise L. Udall, mother of then Secretary of the Interior Stewart Udall, visited the monument on September 4, 1962, in the company of her daughter, Elma, and three descendants of Jacob Hamblin, including Rella Hamblin Lee of Downey, California (the only living daughter of Jacob Hamblin). [1774] On November 14, 1962, Assistant Secretary of the Interior John A. Carver, Jr., and his wife and parents, of Pocotello, Idaho visited the monument. On October 12, 1962, LeGrand Woolley of Salt Lake City visited Pipe Spring. He was another of Edwin G. Woolley's sons.

Reunions continued to be held at Pipe Spring during the early 1960s. On May 28, 1961, Heaton reported that the Black family, descendents of 1870s settlers in the area, held a reunion. The Winsor family held its family reunion for three years in a row at Pipe Spring, during the summers of 1961-1963. The last two years it was a two-day affair. The Woods and Bunting families also held reunions at the monument in 1962 and 1963, respectively.

In addition to reunions, Church groups and officials (both Church and State) continued to visit the monument. In February 1963 Harold Fabian, vice-chairman of the Advisory Board on National Parks, Historic Sites, Buildings and Monuments, and his wife visited the monument with Rudger C. Atkin, president of the St. George Stake of the Church. On April 20 Superintendent and Mrs. Oberhansley visited the monument with Dr. and Mrs. Everett Cooley. Dr. Cooley was director of the Utah Historical Society. On May 18 and 19, 1963, Aaronic Priesthood groups from Latter-day Saints churches in Moccasin, Hurricane, and Panguitch visited the monument.

Historic Buildings

The Fort

In December 1956 Park Engineer Wilcox made a test hole at the southwest corner of the fort to inspect the fort's foundation at that location. [1775] He checked the soil at the southwest corner of the fort with a seven-foot auger, hitting shale at a depth of about two feet. At five feet, the soil was quite dry and hard; at about seven feet he hit water that came up in the hole at a rate of five feet in two hours. Heaton later wrote, "So we have big problem to stabilize the southwest corner of the fort." [1776] In February 1957 Wilcox returned to make further tests. Heaton later reported, "We drilled a 17-foot hole on the southwest corner going through clay and some shale and water at about 3 or 4 feet. At 17 feet there was some quite hard shale. Mr. Wilcox took an instrument reading on pond water level and ground [level] at the fort. [There was a] three-foot difference so we may have water seepage from the pond back to the fort rather than [from] spring water." [1777] The drilling showed that the material to a depth of 17 feet was largely a reddish brown clay with varying moisture content. It was thought that at a depth of about eight feet the material would support a spread footing for the building corner.

After Wilcox's second investigatory trip, Superintendent Franke described the problem in a memorandum to Regional Director Hugh Miller. The cost of needed stabilization work was "beyond the reach" of Zion's available maintenance funds, Franke stated. He asked for Miller's ideas on how to obtain funding to accomplish the work. Regional Chief of Operations David H. Canfield wrote Franke that constructing the footing at a depth of six feet was adequate. He suggested providing tile drains beneath the new footing surrounded by crushed gravel. Canfield requested cost estimates for the work. Franke responded that construction costs to stop the settling of the fort's southwest corner would be $936, $500 of which they had in their historic buildings account. The regional office agreed in March to make up the $436 deficit so the project could move forward.

Wilcox visited the monument on March 18 and March 25, 1957, to make plans for stabilization work on the fort. On March 25 Wilcox made arrangements for two laborers and told Heaton what materials would be needed for the work (sand, cement, and mixers). Heaton bought 40 bags of cement from Kanab Construction Company then arranged for his brother Grant Heaton to haul three loads of gravel to the monument. Heaton also drained the fort ponds so water would drain out from under the building.

On April 1, 1957, Wilcox and Ward Axtel arrived to work on the fort stabilization, remaining on site for the duration of the project, and camping in a trailer. Work on the fort commenced on April 2 with a crew of four or five men (Leonard P. Heaton was hired to assist with part of the work; laborer Carl Johnson was also involved.) On the first day, the men excavated three 2 x 5 x 6-foot holes around the fort's southwest corner. No water was encountered, leading Heaton to speculate that the seepage Wilcox encountered had come from the ponds, which were now temporarily empty. A fourth hole was dug, then reinforced concrete footings were poured. Stabilization work was completed on April 9. Johnson cleaned up the site and refilled the fort ponds.

During December 1957, two laborers, Carl Johnson and Kelly Heaton, were hired to repair the fort's walls and ceilings, paint the floors with linseed oil, and to white wash the walls. That month the men painted the east and west walls with a mixture of water and dirt. They continued working in the north building until the end of December, replastering the kitchen walls with cement as a base and regular plaster as the surface, as well as painting, cleaning, and other work. During that month Heaton made several trips to area towns to locate carpenters and other men for restoration work on the fort and furnishings as programmed for early 1959.

Regional office staff Ken Saunders and Erik Reed were assigned to supervise the FY 1959 restoration work. Reed reviewed a list of suggestions prepared by Heaton, then submitted a list of his 10 "high priority" and two "second priority" projects to Superintendent Franke on November 24, 1958. High priority projects were repairing and purchasing old furnishings for the fort; hiring carpenters to repair all woodwork in the fort; painting all woodwork; wiring the building; closing up all exterior openings not original to the fort and reconstructing gun ports in outer walls; replacing flooring in the lower floor of the upper building; reconstructing the ladder to the trap door; making repairs to plaster and floors; getting the spring water running through the fort; and making shutters for two windows on the lower building's first floor. Of lower priority were rebuilding the telegraph line and replacing the fire cranes in the fireplace.

104. Scaffolding erected on south side of fort, January 19, 1959 (Photograph by Leonard Heaton, Pipe Spring National Monument, neg. 51).

Restoration work on the fort began on January 12, 1959. Locating local sandstone to infill the fort's windows and south doorway was the first challenge. Ray Mose and Clair Ford scouted around Heart Canyon and finally located some stone the right color. They spent several days quarrying then dragging pieces to the monument with a tractor rented from Grant Heaton. There Clair Ford worked the stone into the proper shapes. Scaffolding was erected on January 16 and 17, then work began on rocking up the fort's exterior windows. One of Leonard's sons, Sherwin Heaton, was hired to assist with this work for two months. At times the weather was so cold the mortar froze to the trowel. On January 22 Assistant Superintendent Charles Humberger, Regional Architect Ken Saunders, and Park Engineer Ed Bossler visited the monument to inspect work progress. The last opening was rocked up on January 29. Mud stain was used to "age" the new infilled areas and gun ports were created during the infilling work. While Ford and Mose were at work, a contractor from Hurricane Electric Company had a crew trenching and laying conduit to wire the fort, completing work on the 24th. [1778] Charlie Steen visited the fort in late February and later reported, "The new work blends very well with the old walls and the south aspect of the fort is vastly improved." [1779]

Replacement work on the upper building's deteriorated parlor and kitchen floors began on January 30, 1959, and was completed in April. (This was the third time these floors had been replaced, the most recent being 1948.) Five screened, external vents were added beneath the floors to reduce moisture problems and all materials were treated to resist moisture, decay, and termites. [1780] Work to restore the spring flow to the spring room was undertaken in February and completed in March. (See "Ponds, Fish, Fowl, and Springs" section.) The stone walls of the fort, the cabins, and the walls flanking the fort and around the fort ponds were all repointed as needed by June. In the upper level of the lower building, interior work included removal of old plaster from walls and partitions, followed by replacement with cement on the rock walls and gypsum plaster and lime on the partitions. Some patch work was also done in other rooms. In March Sherwin Heaton resigned and Ivan A. Goodall was hired to clean furnishings and assist with other interior work. Grant Heaton was also hired as a laborer in early March. Clair Ford did repairs to the woodwork throughout the fort's interior, repairing and replacing loose or broken boards. Interior painting was done where needed. Grant Heaton and Ivan Goodall were laid off at the end of March and Harry Judd was hired as a painter. Judd, Ford, and Mose continued working on the fort into the summer months. In May Grant Heaton worked on restoring the old telegraph line to the fort, replacing the old poles with new ones.

In September 1959 Superintendent Franke and Bob Utley visited the monument. One of the things discussed was the lighting system inside the fort. Franke did not like the floodlights that had been installed in rooms and wanted electric lights put in the old lamps and lanterns instead.

In the fall of 1962, linseed oil was painted onto the roof of the fort and on woodwork under the eaves of the porches as a preservative, following a recommendation made by Western Museum Laboratory staff.

The East and West Cabins

In March 1957 Heaton rebuilt the chimney of the east cabin and patched roofs of both cabins with blue clay which he wetted down with the fire pump and hose. [1781] In late July laborer Carl Johnson worked on the east cabin foundation, putting in a concrete footing and cementing up cracks. In November Johnson and Kelly Heaton removed deteriorated mud mortar from the wall of both cabins and repointed the stones with cement. They then painted the walls with water and mud to take off the "newness" of their work. The two-week job was completed in early December 1957. That month Heaton removed planking from the west cabin middle doorway so that he could use both rooms of the west cabin for a museum display.

In late April 1959, the east and west cabin foundations were treated with a termite repellant ("pendane"). During the fall a great deal of work was done to outfit both cabins with a mixture of reproduction and authentic furnishings for display purposes (see "Monument Administration, 1959" section). Other than routine maintenance, no other work was done on the cabins in the early 1960s. In May 1962 concern for the security of collections in the cabins led to the erecting of barriers, which allowed visitors to view displays from just inside the doorways.

The rehabilitation work begun in January 1959 on the fort and cabins continued until June 1961, when the account was finally closed out. As the funds included the purchase and repair of historic furnishings and the completion of room exhibits, this latter aspect of the project took a longer period of time than work on the buildings, most of which was accomplished in 1959.

During November 1963, the roof of the west cabin was patched with mud and bark.

The Lime Kiln

Heaton and Olsen shared an interest in the site of an old lime kiln, the kiln having been used during the construction of the fort and west cabin. The kiln burnt lime that went into plaster and the mortar for stonework. Olsen reported the kiln was located 200 feet west of the west cabin, "about 20 feet from where the road is now" (referring to the old monument road, State Highway 40). In 1964 the kiln was a mound of rocks, sand, and dirt, measuring four to five feet high by 15 to 20 feet wide. Heaton wanted to reconstruct the kiln, but the request was denied by his superiors. [1782]

The Heaton Residence

No improvements were made to the old custodian's residence (CCC infirmary) during the late 1950s as construction of the new residences was imminent. The only request Heaton made was on July 10, 1958, when he called Zion to ask for an evaporative cooler for the residence. It was so hot inside that his daughter Millicent had fainted from heat exhaustion. (McKown's trailer had a cooler.) See "Monument Administration, 1961" section for reference to the building's removal.

Planning and Development

1956-1958

An amount of $3,000 was allotted on April 21, 1956, to build a new comfort station at the campground, which was constructed in two parts. The first $1,731 contract was awarded to Clifford Heaton of Kanab, Utah, who began construction of the 10 x 14-foot cinder block and frame structure on May 18, 1956, and finished his part on June 21. The building was sited just east of the east end of the old parking area at the campground entrance. [1783] Heaton and a hired laborer worked the remainder of June and part of July installing the water and sewer lines to the comfort station. It could not be used, however, for none of the plumbing fixtures could be purchased or installed due to insufficient funds that year.

In late September 1956, Regional Architect Ken Saunders inspected the comfort station and said he would try to get more money to complete the building and to repair the fort. A second allotment for the comfort station was received on December 12, 1956, allowing the purchase and installation of fixtures, wiring, and other finish work. In late December the contract was awarded to Heaton's son Leonard P. Heaton for $395 for installing the fixtures, painting the building, grading the area, and building walks. Work began on December 27, 1956, and was finished on January 25, 1957, with a cost of $4,200. In his final report, Acting Superintendent Heaton stated, "The completion of this building marked a highlight in the development of Pipe Spring in that it marks the first structure of any kind completed with construction funds allotted specifically for the purpose... It serves a great public need." [1784] Laborer Carl Johnson graded and landscaped the building site in March and April 1957. [1785] Johnson also tore down the four privies on April 27; the salvaged lumber was used for firewood. In early May 1958, laborer Gary Heaton removed the old walkways to the pit toilet sites.

In late July 1957, Heaton got word that the Mission 66 building program had been approved for Pipe Spring but that it would be two years before any construction work would start. Superintendent Franke and Landscape Architect Ronald Mortimore, Western Office of Design and Construction, visited Pipe Spring on September 26, 1957, to go over Mission 66 plans for the monument.

Superintendent Franke submitted the monument's general development plan (NM/PS-2101A) to Director Wirth for approval on April 30, 1958. Final approval was held up due to the uncertainty of the Park Service gaining permission from the Kaibab Paiute Tribal Council and Bureau of Indian Affairs to relocate the bypass road south of the monument (see "Area Roads" section for details). On June 12, 1958, Leonard and Edna Heaton and Jim McKown met with Associate Director Scoyen and Regional Director Miller in Zion. Miller told Heaton that unless the Washington office opposed it, the two new residences for the monument were top priority for fiscal year 1959. On July 5, 1958, Heaton was notified that the project for the new residences was formally approved. Implementation of the master plan for the monument, however, hinged on relocating the through road outside the monument's boundaries, meaning the construction of a bypass road. There was some opposition to building such a road by the Kaibab Paiute Tribe, which delayed the director's approval of the final master plan. Hugh Miller unsuccessfully tried to push through finalization of architectural plans for the residences and the director's approval of an interim master plan so that construction could begin that winter on the residences. [1786] They would not be started until the summer of 1959.

Meanwhile, in late 1958 Heaton put in a last minute plea that his new residence have ample storage space ("to store all the several hundred cans of fruit, jellies, jams, meats, dried produce my wife puts up each fall") and a flue somewhere in the building. The latter was desired in case the family needed to set up a wood or coal stove for either heat or cooking. Heaton had too much experience with failing generators to put all his faith in electricity, even from a commercial company. [1787] No flue or fireplace was included in the construction, a situation Heaton later fumed over whenever the area's power failed and the family was left without a source of heat.

105. Comfort station, ca. 1957 (Photograph by Leonard Heaton, Pipe Spring National Monument, neg. 3274).

1959-1963

In the spring of 1959, a number of questions were raised by the Western Office, Division of Design and Construction (WODC), and the Water Resources Section regarding the impact that new monument development would have on water use, since the Park Service was limited to one-third of the spring flow, as per the 1933 agreement. (See "Water Issues" section for background.)

On May 10, 1959, Thomas C. Vint, Chief of Design and Construction (Washington office), George Hall (WODC) and Superintendent Franke visited the monument to discuss development plans. On May 17 Architect Cecil J. Doty (WODC) visited the monument to become acquainted with its development plans and to look over the site for the proposed visitor center. [1788] A number of Zion and regional office officials frequently visited during the first six months of 1959 when most rehabilitation activity took place.

106. New staff residences and parking, October 1960 (Photograph by Leonard Heaton, Pipe Spring National Monument, neg. 170).

107. New east entrance sign, 1961 (Photograph by Leonard Heaton, Pipe Spring National Monument, neg. 160).

While Assistant Regional Director H. L. Bill was inspecting the monument on July 28, 1959, Heaton expressed concern about the location of one of the two planned residences. He told Bill it was sited in the middle of a drainage channel, which could be the source of considerable trouble later on. Bill later advised Hugh Miller, "Some corrections in the area above the residence location would serve to protect the structure and the occasional flow of water can be directed around the building. It is too late to relocate the residences." [1789] The planned visitor parking area was also poorly sited. At the time, plans included the installation of a six-foot culvert under the road to prevent flooding, but ultimately only a 56-inch culvert was installed. Officials would later learn the culvert size was inadequate and perhaps question the wisdom of constructing a parking area in a drainage wash.

Funds in the amount of $36,700 for two new residences were made available for the fiscal year 1959 program. On June 24, 1959, bids were opened and a contract was awarded for $36,950 to Leon Glazier of Hurricane, Utah. The identical residences contained 1,254 square feet of living space with three bedrooms and one bath, with a 362 square foot attached garage. Excavation began on July 2 and construction was completed on December 16. [1790] Water and sewer lines were also extended to the new residences. Heaton, Humberger, and Project Supervisor Wayland P. Fairchild (WODC) inspected the job that day, which was declared complete and acceptable. Until commercial power reached the monument, however, the Heatons and McKown could not move in. In March 1960 Clifford Heaton built storage spaces in the residence garages and Grant Heaton installed insulation.

No provisions for landscaping were made to keep costs from exceeding funds available. Zion officials estimated the cost would be about $2,400 and had to seek approval from the Washington and regional offices to expend additional funds. Approval from Washington was given in mid-December 1959 to landscape the residences, with the stipulation that expenditures be kept to the bare minimum. In March 1960 Grant Heaton and Ray Mose graded and filled the area as needed to prepare for landscaping. In April Mose planted a row of plum trees and 11 Carolina poplars "at back" (north) of the residences to help screen them from the fort area. Other plantings were made around the buildings, concrete block walks were constructed, and lawns were planted. Construction of the new visitor parking area, parking area for a future seasonal apartment, a service road to the residences, and a utility courtyard began on August 23, 1960, and was completed on September 21. [1791] The visitor parking area was in a loop configuration near the east entrance of the monument, on the north side of the road. (Refer back to figure 97 for site location.)

As mentioned earlier, the old CCC infirmary was removed in May 1961. In June 1961 an entrance sign was constructed and installed at the monument's east entrance, a project that had been planned, Heaton reckoned, for 15 years. [1792] Clair Ford, Ray Mose, and Grant Heaton excavated for the 14 x 4 x 1-foot concrete slab base, dressed and erected the sandstone, and affixed a wooden sign to the front. Work began on June 19 and was completed June 30. The design is very similar to others erected in parks and monuments during Mission 66. [1793]

By the end of 1961, most of the development that would take place at Pipe Spring National Monument under the Mission 66 program was completed. A total of $97,823 had been expended on projects described above. Other monument projects were planned under Mission 66 (at a total estimated cost of $226,977) but none of these had been authorized by early 1962. [1794] Overhead wires to the fort were placed underground in May 1962. During October 1963, Leonard Heaton (just recently retired) assisted Zion's Park Engineer Joe McCabe map out the monument's utilities, which a survey crew from Zion mapped during November 12-16.

Water System

No funds were programmed to develop the monument's water system during fiscal year 1959. However, the work that Heaton was doing in trying to restore the spring flow to the spring room, as well as the expected construction of new residences that year, required that a collection box be designed which could later serve the new water system. In February 1959 Engineer P. E. Smith (WODC) forwarded a sketch of a suggested collection and distribution box to Superintendent Franke. [1795] WODC engineers completed plans for the complete monument water system in March 1959. [1796] The estimated cost for executing their plans was $36,500. The system required two reservoirs, one 40,000-gallon reservoir at low level for fire and emergency reserve and one smaller 5,000-gallon reservoir at high level for domestic use and fire "first aid." The larger reservoir was to be fed by gravity from the spring, the small reservoir required a pump for distribution. In his transmittal of the plans, Engineer Smith wrote Franke,

This somewhat unusual system was devised in order to hold the permanent scar [on the monument] to a minimum.... We realize that a complete gravity system is desirable, but feel that the heavy equipment which would be required to install a larger reservoir at the site shown for the small reservoir would permanently scar the terrain. Considering the proximity of the nature trail, we feel that this would be highly undesirable. [1797]

Franke, Heaton, and Park Engineer Bossler reviewed the plans and made an on site study on March 11, 1959. The men proposed a simpler and less expensive system to WODC engineers, suggesting that a 15,000-gallon tank be located in a pocket along the ridge west of the fort, on the old quarry trail. This would allow the entire water system to function by gravity flow, delivering water through a buried four-inch pipeline. The front of the tank could be hidden with large boulders, and the top of the reservoir could be used as an observation platform along the nature trail, Franke suggested. The estimated cost would be $18,450, excluding the distribution system to the new residences. [1798] Regional Director Miller later returned the unapproved WODC plans to Franke: "It seems too complicated a system for a small area," he said, proposing an entirely different system than that proposed by Franke to WODC. Miller suggested a 30,000-gallon gravity reservoir and a 2,000-gallon, partially underground, reservoir using a pump. [1799]

Engineer Smith revised the water system plans based on comments from the regional office and Zion, resubmitting the revised plans in mid-April 1959. He pointed out that it was impractical to construct a large reservoir along the old quarry trail for there was no pocket along the trail large enough to place the reservoir, meaning extensive and expensive rock excavation and removal. Pipeline construction along the cliff face would also be difficult and costly, Smith asserted. Design standards also required a fire reserve capacity of 38,400 gallons in addition to the normal domestic use. [1800] In August Zion, region, and WODC officials came to the monument to discuss the water system and other developments. Heaton later reported, "Think we have finally settled on spot for 40,000-gallon tank on [the] hill for culinary use." [1801]

A WODC engineer collected survey data for the new water system, parking area, and service roads in November 1959. On November 13, 1959, Assistant Superintendent Humberger and Carl Jepson came out to inspect the area and to go over the latest plans for new water system. Project construction proposals for a water system continued to be submitted during the 1960s, but due to lack of funds the new water system was not constructed.

Walkways

As might be expected, as soon as development activity kicked into high gear in the late 1950s, a need for new walkways arose. In May 1957 laborers constructed walks around the comfort station. The walks between the fort and cabins were repaved with blacktop. In July and early August 1959, new walks were constructed at the office and east side of the fort and old walks were repaired. During April 1960, Grant Heaton and Ray Mose laid four new concrete block walkways around the new residences and garages. Nearly one year after the new residences were completed, a new walkway was built from the residential area to the trailer office using leftover materials from a road construction job. [1802] Other work on walkways prior to 1964 was in the nature of routine maintenance or resurfacing.

Nature Trail

While Zion and other Park Service officials made occasional inspections or references to the proposed nature trail at the monument during this period, no progress was made in financing trail construction. The old rock quarry trail was very crooked, observed one WODC engineer in April 1959; it appeared that a good deal of work would be required to make a safe hiking trail along it. The trail would not be constructed until the summer of 1968 when government-sponsored youth employment programs supplied the monument with additional workers.

Ponds, Fish, Fowl, and Springs

The Fort Ponds

By the late 1950s, draining and cleaning of the fort ponds was nearly an annual affair and an all-day job for three men. In addition to this routine chore, a number of pond repair projects took place. On May 19, 1957, strong winds blew over an old cottonwood tree on the walkway between the ponds, damaging the rock wall on the west side of the path between the ponds and damaging the walk. In mid-June Leonard Heaton and Carl Johnson removed the tree stump between the ponds, rebuilt the damaged rock wall, and repaired the walk.

During May and June 1958, the exterior rock walls of the fort ponds were stabilized, requiring 30 bags of cement. Gary Heaton and Ray Mose began work on May 20 on the east pond wall. After the first two days, Mose worked alone on the job. The fire pump and hose were used to first clean out the loose dirt and debris. Then the cement was mixed with a reddish brown coloring (to resemble old mud mortar) and troweled into the cracks. Mose had to suspend work on the walls for a while to help ready the monument for that year's Establishment Day (May 30). He resumed work the first week of June and completed the exterior walls on June 9, 1958. On June 18 Ray Mose, Jim McKown, and Kelly Heaton cleaned out and drained the fort ponds. Then Leonard Heaton assisted the three men in repointing the inside of the ponds with cement. Work was completed on June 21 and the ponds were refilled.

On July 21, 1959, the fort ponds were drained and some of the carp and goldfish moved to other ponds. Heaton wrote that there were so many that they kept the water muddy all the time. On July 22 Ray Mose and Allen Drye cleaned the fort ponds, putting 39 carp in meadow pond, and 33 goldfish in the Indian pond (reservoir), leaving 30 or more fish in ponds by the fort. Due to the July 21 earthquake, Heaton noted that the spring flow had noticeably increased. It took only three days to refill the ponds this time, while before it had taken nearly four full days. The ponds were drained and cleaned in June 1961. In 1962 they were cleaned twice, once in May and again in November. [1803] During the May cleaning, the rock walls were repaired. Heaton reported that after the November cleaning it took 74 hours for the ponds to refill, about 22 hours faster than in previous years when he had timed it. He attributed the increased flow to the 1959 earthquake. [1804]

Between 1960 and 1963, several efforts were made to stabilize the deteriorating stone walls of the fort ponds. Heaton noted considerable seepage through the east bank of the ponds in February 1963, but could not locate the source.

The Meadow Pond

Heaton made no reference in his journal about public swimming in the meadow pond after the summer of 1950. It appears that shortly after that year swimming at Pipe Spring was forbidden by either Zion or regional office officials. In early August 1958, Heaton reported that he got into trouble with superiors by letting people swim at the monument. Swimming as a monument activity had been reported in a magazine article, much to his superiors' chagrin. [1805] No correspondence about the matter has been located.

Fish

By the late 1950s, Heaton appears to have given up stocking the ponds with hatchery trout and the predominant fish species were carp and goldfish. His records indicate that he occasionally received donations of local carp to put in the ponds. On one occasion in August 1958, Heaton, Edna, and two of their sons went to Johnson Lake, 35 miles east, to catch some fish to put in the fort's west pond. They caught 17 carp and three bass, about six to eight inches long.

In May 1963, shortly before his retirement, Heaton asked U.S. Fish and Wildlife to deliver 100-200 trout to the fort ponds when they made a delivery of trout to the reservation. On May 4 he received a delivery of two nets of fish, about 100, six to eight-inch rainbow trout. By late July, word had gotten out about the new arrivals for Heaton wrote, "There is some night fishing going on here at the monument now that people have found out we have trout in the ponds." [1806]

Fowl

During the late 1950s, local residents occasionally donated domestic ducks for the monument's ponds. The problem was that wild cats would always make short work of them. Heaton even set a trap in Heart Canyon for the cats to protect both monument fowl and his own chickens. [1807] Every year Heaton would add a few ducks to the ponds, and just as surely, the cats would eat them. Wild cats weren't the only hazards. On one occasion in 1959, two young Indian boys injured two ducks with slingshots (Heaton referred to these as "flippers"). The number of ducks on the pond continued to fluctuate during the early 1960s. A bobcat killed one shortly before Heaton retired. After Management Assistant Hugh Bozarth came on duty, he purchased four ducks to add to the lone duck there at the time. "Visitors are pleased that ducks have been restored as part of the historical scene," Bozarth reported to headquarters. [1808]

Springs

During the summer of 1956, the spring stopped running through the fort and spring room. In August Heaton tried to locate the problem and met with some success: "Put a rock at the spring to raise the water level at the head, which forced a fair stream of water into the fort again." [1809] Heaton speculated that the opening to the outside spring had enlarged, lowering the pressure of spring flow into the fort.

By early 1959, the spring flow no longer emerged from under the north building but in the courtyard, at more than three feet lower elevation and at less pressure. Extensive work was done in February and March 1959 to restore the flow naturally through the spring room again. Beginning at the northwest corner of the courtyard, Ray Mose and Sherwin Heaton excavated down to reach the water channel. On February 9 the two men broke through to the spring channel and got flooded out. Work had to be temporarily halted until a pump could be brought from Zion on the 20th. It was discovered that the water channel from the north building ran between two very large rocks which extended about eight feet from the building foundation. A six-inch concrete wall was placed below the spring outlet between two large rocks, from the bottom of the excavation to four inches below ground level. Heaton wrote that this was done for two reasons: first, to prevent spring water from seeping into the spring room and second, to construct a catch basin beneath the courtyard to collect water for the monument's culinary system, and to divert water into the spring room. An open bottom-type manhole was installed. A two-inch pipe was placed in the collection box and connected to the old water system that supplied the picnic area, residences, and other areas on the monument. Plans were to take more water from this point for the new water system. A three-inch pipe was installed to carry water to the spring room. It was discovered that by raising the water level of the spring on the west side of the fort, the water flow could be increased into the spring room, so this level was raised about eight inches. The spring project was completed March 25, 1959. [1810]

108. Sketch showing location of spring and collection box, February, 1959 (Pipe Spring National Monument). (click on image for an enlargement in a new window)

In April 1961 Heaton reported that Ray Mose "found a new spring of water" behind the west cabin as he cleared away the dead vegetation. Heaton wrote that the "new spring" (presumably a seep) was six to eight feet higher up the hill from the previously known spring. [1811]

Flood Diversion, Irrigation, and Pipelines

As in previous years, on numerous occasions between 1956 and 1963 either the cattlemen's or the Tribe's pipeline from the monument became clogged with roots or debris and had to be cleaned. This happened almost annually. The fire pump was found to be the best method of clearing the lines on such occasions.

Floods

Constructing the new parking area in the middle of a flood wash in 1960 was only asking for trouble, and it sure enough came. The parking area had been inspected and accepted on September 21. On November 6, 1960, a morning of constant rain brought flooding by noon. Heaton described the scene:

Flood going over the roads at the culvert, washing a lot of trash onto the parking area, taking out some road shoulders at the new parking road. Several other places washed some. Take one man a week or more to clean up after the flood. The culvert across road was just not big enough to carry the water. Flood wash about 1/2 full of sand now. A week's work or more on it to care for future floods. Drain and gutters worked OK at residence. [1812]

The flood overflowed the 56-inch culvert onto the road leaving trash and debris in the fills. Flood water from the road to Moccasin ran into monument and washed out the east side of the parking area loop road and filled the gutter at the cattle guard. New ditches were eroded along the new road. Ray Mose and Grant Heaton spent four days cleaning up the flood debris and fixing damaged roads.

During August 1963, hard rains resulted in floods again overflowing the banks of the drainage channel in the monument's picnic area on several occasions, depositing trash and sand. Another flood on September 13 damaged the picnic area, roads, and grounds around the new residences. Funds from the regional office were used to have the flood debris removed, under Park Engineer McCabe's supervision. This flood convinced McCabe that another culvert was needed to prevent future flooding of the campground, which was later proposed.

Museum Collection

In July 1957 Theo McAllister of Kanab donated to the collection two powder horns (one dated 1857), an iron kettle, an iron pot, and a wooden ram-rod for a gun. In 1958 a new system of museum cataloguing was adopted. Much of the responsibility of converting to it was delegated to Park Historian McKown. During the year the monument continued to acquire new artifacts. On July 2, 1958, McKown transported an old wagon down from Kaibab Village to the monument on a truck and placed it in the fort's courtyard. That month the monument had a visit from Dave Smith, son-in-law of Bishop Joe Hopkins. (Hopkins was the blacksmith and carpenter at Pipe Spring when the fort was under construction.) Heaton quizzed Smith about what the old tools in the monument's collection were used for so the information could be used in their interpretive program.

On July 15, 1958, Walter Winsor and his wife visited and donated some small antiques to the monument. That month Heaton also picked up an old spinning wheel in Orderville that once belonged to Maria Bowers. He wrote Judge Levi S. Udall at month's end about the possibility of getting some of his mother's things to fix up the old telegraph room. His mother was Luella Stewart Udall, the first telegraph operator at Pipe Spring. (In February 1959 Heaton received a letter from Judge Udall saying the family had collected several items of their mother's to put in the telegraph office at Pipe Spring.) During September 1958, Heaton went to Orderville to pick up some antiques donated by the Esplin sisters, Bessie Brooks, Evelyn Richards, Saria Cox, and Maggie Esplin. [1813]

On January 15, 1959, Heaton picked up "an old show case" in Orderville, which he described as "circular glass with revolving partitions." [1814] (This is still used in the visitor center to display ethnographic materials.) During January 1959, about 20 pieces of antique furniture were taken to Wesley McAllister in Kanab for repair. A concerted effort was made beginning in early 1959 to acquire more furnishings for the fort both through purchase and donation (see "Monument Administration, 1959" section). In April 1959 the Covington painting of Toroweap Valley was sent to the Western Museum Laboratory for conservation work. During the summer a considerable number of new pieces were added to the collection, most obtained by purchase or donation by Carl Jepson and Lloyd Sandberg. A woman in Hurricane, Utah, made a rag rug for the fort that summer.

On May 30, 1959 (Establishment Day), Carl Jepson brought out an old quilt and frame to be used in the fort and gave Heaton a list of things that could be used to refurnish the rooms. Heaton's mother, Margaret C. Heaton, donated some more antiques that day. In early August Heaton got $50 from Zion to purchase pioneer relics for the museum. En route back to the monument, he purchased artifacts from Mrs. Nella H. Robertson in Alton for $40. In September Heaton traveled to Glendale to buy an old farm wagon for $10 (it wasn't picked up until January 1960). Heaton was quite active in 1961 purchasing artifacts for the museum, literally scouring the countryside for "old relics." [1815]

In the early 1960s, the Winsor family made additional donations to the monument. [1816] In January 1960 a descendant of James M. Whitmore, Mrs. Alvira Fairborn of Sandy, Utah, donated a footstool, stand, and several articles of men's clothing. In July 1961 Mrs. Vilo DeMills of Rockville, Utah, donated a weaving loom made in 1860 in Salt Lake City, and Clair Ford spent part of the spring of 1962 restoring the old loom, which was in such poor condition that he had to remake parts of it. The spinning wheel was also repaired so that it was useable. Heaton set up a weaving exhibit in the upstairs of the fort's lower building.

During the winter of 1961-1962, Bob Olsen and Ray Mose treated the iron implements in the blacksmith shop by scraping off loose rust and painting them with a mixture of turpentine and linseed oil to retard further rusting. (Other metal artifacts in the museum's collection may have been similarly treated.) Wood objects were generally treated with linseed oil.

In the summer of 1962, Heaton reported to Zion officials that Emma J. Spendlove brought an 1881 pencil sketch of Pipe Spring by the French artist Albert Tissandier to the Kanab Chamber of Commerce for exhibit. Heaton was directed to find out if it could be bought as it was the oldest known depiction of Pipe Spring. Although she was unwilling to sell the drawing, in January 1963 Mrs. Spendlove provided the monument with a photograph of the Tissandier sketch and gave permission for it to be used in the historical handbook at Pipe Spring. [1817] In March 1963 Heaton brought some more artifacts from Zion to use in the fort museum.

Water Issues

The spring and summer of 1956 were particularly dry seasons. In April 1956 Heaton reported, "Brinkerhoff [a local stockman] is hauling water for his cattle as his ponds are dried up." [1818] That July hot and dry weather conditions required Heaton to keep water running into irrigation ditches almost constantly to preserve the monument's trees and meadow. [1819]

As part of the federal claims to waters of the Lower Colorado River (the Arizona v. California case mentioned in Part VIII), the Park Service's chief of lands sent an inquiry about water usage to Pipe Spring National Monument. [1820] Heaton reported that the water his family used was unmetered: "The water is taken directly from the spring and no restrictions are made to its use." [1821] Heaton was using the old Army connection installed above the division weir for the family's domestic water supply, although Indian Service officials had protested this arrangement in March 1942 (see Part VI). Heaton also stated that about 5 acres were being irrigated, broken down as follows: 2 acres of meadow, 2.5 acres of trees (including the campground), and .5 acres of garden. On May 29, 1956, the Park Service made a partial statement of claims. It stated that Pipe Spring obtained its water through Kanab Creek, a tributary to Lake Mead. [1822]

During 1956, in connection with federal claims in the Arizona v. California case, Zion officials (on behalf of Chief A. van V. Dunn, Water Resources Section) asked Heaton more questions about Pipe Spring water. He reported that the flow of Pipe Spring "has remained a steady flow year in and year out, never a change regardless of the weather conditions..." [1823] Before 1925, all water was confined to the area within 200 yards of the spring itself for stock watering and irrigation of the meadow and orchard. [1824] For about 10 years prior to 1934, water was run into a stock pond just west of the monument. Since the 1934 tri-partite division, spring flow had not left the monument except for the water piped to the stockmen's and Indians' reservoirs, Heaton stated.

A water rights docket was assembled for Pipe Spring National Monument in 1957 as a basis for water claims in Arizona v. California. Chief Dunn informed Regional Director Miller in April 1957 that the Park Service and Indian Service were making an effort to present consistent Departmental claims in the case. "This may also reopen the question of whether the Park Service should file and appropriation application," Dunn wrote. [1825]

In April 1958 Heaton received a telegram from the WODC, asking for measurements of the spring flow. He informed the office that none had been taken since May 1934 when Park Service Engineer A. E. Cowell and Indian Service Engineer N. A. Hall took measurements. Another official gathering data for the Arizona v. California case spent 90 minutes in June querying Heaton by phone about irrigation at Pipe Springs, Moccasin, Short Creek, and other places on the Arizona Strip. A hearing on the Arizona v. California case was scheduled for May 2, 1958, in San Francisco, California, about the time the Park Service was to provide its testimony. Chief Dunn was chosen to be the chief witness, assisted by Regional Chief of Lands, John E. Kell. [1826]

In March 1959 Kell called the WODC chief's attention to the monument's general development plan and early agreements made about the division of Pipe Spring water. He recommended that planning and design take into account the one-third flow of the springs allowed to the Park Service, although he was uncertain how it was being measured. He intended to send Civil Engineer William E. ("Bill") Fields (regional office) to check on the matter "at the first opportunity." [1827] That month, Chief Dunn wrote Hugh Miller regarding Kells' concern about monument development and water limitations. Dunn wrote,

The method of distribution to stockmen has never been explained, but wasteful overflow of watering troughs would be contrary to water laws. I also believe that only about one family uses the Indian quota. That use may also be wasteful, but I believe the Indian rights would be paramount.

I believe that the division of water [in 1933] was made on no sound analysis of beneficial use or future needs. I believe the NPS development is now restricted by the one-third quota, but the Secretary has the authority to negotiate new agreements and issue new regulations. It might be well justified to make a map of the complete water system and uses and analysis of water uses by each party when convenient, to determine whether there is a waste of water. Such an investigation should be made for factual data, without stirring up the other water claimants. [1828]

No record has been located to indicate such an investigation was made at the time or in the years just following the recommendation.

No correspondence on Pipe Spring water issues was located for the early 1960s. [1829] Neither are there references to any disputes in Heaton's journal or reports for the period. It seems to have been a rare time when there were no water problems, other than pipelines of the stockmen or the Indians getting occasionally clogged up and requiring attention. The Bureau of Indian Affairs requested a number of water tests. Superintendent Herman E. O'Harra, Hopi Agency, had the water analyzed from Pipe Spring in April 1961. The laboratory results showed it good for irrigation. [1830] Apparently some surface crusting had been observed on the reservation land being irrigated by Pipe Spring water, which led to a concern about the water. Along with the test results, a program was suggested to increase the organic matter of the surface soil to reduce the crusting. The water from a new tribal well was analyzed in November 1961 and found to be too high in salt content for human use. For the same reason, its usefulness for agriculture was limited. [1831]

In December 1963, shortly after Heaton retired, Superintendent Oberhansley paid a visit to Tribal Chairman Vernon Jake to discuss the water division at the monument and the protection of archeological sites on the reservation.

Deaths, Accidents, Missing Persons, and Heaton Family Matters

Deaths

In 1956 Heaton took several hours off work to conduct funeral services for Max Clarence Mayo, a Kaibab Paiute boy, age 12, who was killed accidentally with a 38 pistol. [1832] Three years later, Heaton attended the funeral of Asa Walter Judd, who died on July 17, 1959. Judd was three years old when his parents settled in Kanab in 1870. On April 23, 1959, Heaton attended the grave-side funeral service for "old Jake Indian who was about 85 years old and a very good friend of the white man." [1833] Heaton went to a number of other funerals for friends and relatives during this period.

On May 9, 1959, just a few days after Jim McKown's return from training at Yosemite National Park, Kelly Heaton died in his sleep of heart failure. His wife Nora and five children survived him, ages two to 15. The funeral was held on May 11. Kelly Heaton had seasonally worked at Pipe Spring as both laborer and guide since 1941. Nora Heaton later worked at the monument from 1974 through 1982 as a clerk/typist and park technician.

Accidents

On March 17, 1957, Heaton reported that two men, Wayne Brooks and Keith Bryner, crash landed their small plane at Cox's ranch 15 miles west of the monument due to storms and darkness. The wreckage was brought through the monument on a truck. Heaton reported they "had quite a time getting through the monument as the wing spread was too great to go between the trees. Had to pull the truck sideways with a tractor to get through." [1834]

In May 1958 a three-year-old boy fell into the fort ponds, but was fished out by his mother, unharmed. On July 30, 1958, a more serious accident involved driver Yvonne Heaton and some local girls. While driving seven young girls to a 4H camp at Duck Creek, Utah, the driver lost control of the pickup truck, which left the road and overturned about one-half mile east of the monument. All were brought to the monument, then treated at Kanab Hospital. Aside from bruises and abrasions, Mary Heaton sustained a broken wrist, Carolyn Heaton some torn rib ligaments, and Millicent Heaton (Leonard Heaton's daughter) "a bruised chest and eye full of dirt and gravel." [1835]

On September 22, 1960, three of Leonard and Edna Heaton's children - Olive, Claren, and Millicent - were in a car-truck accident in Fredonia. Olive, age 18, was injured the most seriously with a broken jaw, rib, skull fracture, and numerous cuts and bruises on her head, arms, and neck. Millicent suffered cuts, bruises, and shock. Claren had only one cut and a stiff neck. A few days later, Heaton took Olive to Salt Lake City to see a specialist for her injuries, where she was hospitalized until October 7. [1836]

On December 13, 1960, an accident occurred involving a truck driven by Ralph Castro, a Kaibab Paiute man. Castro's car slide on slick, snow-packed roads into a big rock 1.5 miles north of the monument. His grandfather, a passenger in the vehicle, was seriously injured when his head went through the windshield, giving him numerous cuts and bruises on the head, shoulders, and hands. They called on Heaton for help, who spent several hours with them administering first aid, getting them to a physician, and moving the vehicle from the road. [1837] Park Historian Bob Olsen's truck accident in Johnson Canyon was mentioned earlier (see "Monument Administration, 1961" section).

A small "cotton fire" occurred at the monument on May 4, 1961, started at the comfort station when a man dropped a lighted match on the sidewalk. The cotton from the cottonwood trees was thick on the ground that day and caught fire from the match, burning about 30 square feet of area. [1838]

Missing Persons

On July 5, 1962, a missing person was reported from the reservation. Heaton later wrote,

Got a phone call from the Indian village at 6:30 p.m. [Wednesday] saying old Charley Chaws [sic] was lost. [He] wandered off Tuesday evening. I and my son Gary went up to help find him. Ray Mose had located him before we got there, about 1? miles north of home. He is about 70 and can hardly get around. Got mad at the folks because they took all his money [and] won't feed him, so he went off to die. We had to carry him to the car about 1/2 mile. [1839]

The elderly man Heaton referred to was Charlie Chassis, grandfather to Glendora Homer, (formerly Glendora Snow). Homer recalled her aging grandfather was nearly blind and partially senile at the time the above incident was reported. While she remembered him frequently getting disoriented and lost (often calling out for her help), she thought Heaton misinterpreted his mental state. Her grandfather didn't have any money, she recently told monument staff. [1840]

In late June 1962, Bob Olsen failed to return from one of his hunting trips for Powell survey markers. Heaton got worried about him as he was driving on old vehicle with poor tires, so Heaton and Ray Mose went to search for him. Heaton later contacted the Utah Highway Patrol, the U.S. Forest Service, the Whiting Brothers Sawmill logging crews, Zion officials, and the Fredonia sheriff and asked them all to be on the lookout for Olsen. When Olsen returned to Pipe Spring at 5:30 that evening, no harm had come to him. It turned out he had decided to stop by Orderville to visit relatives. Zion officials insisted on a write-up of the incident, and Olsen was chastised for not keeping Heaton informed of his whereabouts.

On September 8, 1962, Heaton spent part of his day off hunting for a couple of 11-year-old Kaibab Paiute girls who had taken their mother's car and driven it off the road. They were unhurt, but scared, Heaton reported, and had run off into the hills after the accident. [1841]

Heaton Family Matters

In the early 1950s, polio epidemics posed a serious health crisis in some parts of the country, including Utah. The Poliomyelitis Vaccination Act of August 12, 1955, provided that the Public Health Service allocate $30 million to states to help them buy the new vaccine developed by Dr. Jonas E. Salk. [1842] Polio cases dropped from 37,771 cases in 1955 to ca. 5,700 in 1957-1958. [1843] Heaton reported in 1956 that all children under the age of 14 were required to be inoculated with the polio vaccine (given in three shots) and that his children were among those who received the shots.

On November 16, 1956, the Heatons' son, Lowell H., was married to Glenda Jones of Welsville, Utah. [1844] The couple attended Utah State Agricultural College in Logan, Utah. On January 7, 1957, son Sherwin Heaton left for California on his two-year Church mission. In early June 1958, son Clawson Heaton graduated from Utah State University, Logan, Utah. Another son, Leonard P., married Yvonne Workman on June 8, 1957. In January 1960 son Gary A. Heaton left for Australia on his two-year Church mission. In June 1962 the Heatons attended college graduation for another son in Tempe, Arizona. [1845]

Oil Exploration and Drilling

In June 1956 Heaton reported, "A lot of travel, most of it is in visitors and the oil drilling crew who have a large rotary drill 18 miles west of the monument. Gave them permission to haul water from the monument for drilling purposes. Will take about two to three loads a day, [in a] 1,000 gal. tank." [1846] That month Heaton reported that Conoco, Phillips, and Sinclair oil companies and one other were conducting oil exploration and drilling operations at White Pockets, 26 miles west of the monument: "[They are] finding it hard drilling and [are] down about 400 ft." [1847] In early May 1957, Heaton reported oil testing in the area of Clay Hole. He gave the company testing there the "privilege of hauling 1,000 gals. of water for [the] oil well drilling job." [1848] In February 1958 Heaton reported, "A large convoy of well rigs and trucks passed through the fort [i.e., monument] to make seismograph tests on oil lands to the west of the Clay Hole area." [1849] In early March Heaton heard that oil was found at the Clay Hole area at a depth of about 1,400 feet. In early August 1958, Heaton reported that drilling for oil was taking place about 15 miles southwest of the monument but little had been found. The last reference made during this period to oil drilling was in late January 1960, when Heaton reported, "Had some oil drillers in the camp area last night. Said they were going to go another 1,500 feet in one of the wells out west of here." [1850]

Area Roads

On February 1, 1956, Superintendent Franke presented a slide lecture to residents of Fredonia about the Mission 66 program. Franke encouraged his audience to keep working for the road from Fredonia to Hurricane. He told them that Utah's State Road Commission would complete its part of the road if the State of Arizona would commit to improve its portion. In early March, Heaton attended a Fredonia Booster Club meeting at which time the club was dissolved. A new town mayor and council were to try to "get the road from Fredonia to Hurricane on the secondary system so it can be oiled," Heaton later wrote. [1851] Representatives from Kanab, Fredonia, Hurricane, St. George, Cedar City, and Zion National Park attended a public meeting held on March 24 in Kanab. The purpose of the meeting was to discuss the area road-building program in connection with the proposed Glen Canyon Dam. Heaton reported, "It seems to be the opinion of most all that the road [will be] from Hurricane on U.S. 91 by way of Pipe Spring to Fredonia or U.S. 89 on to Glen Canyon.... We were told that a meeting was being held in Phoenix [on] March 31 to discuss the Fredonia-Pipe Spring-Hurricane Road. It looks [like] and we hope the road will soon be built." [1852]

Regional Chief of Operations Canfield surveyed the road situation at Pipe Spring during April 1956, then paid a visit that month to Superintendent John O. Crow, Uintah and Ouray Agency, at Ft. Duchesne, Utah, to discuss a bypass road. Crow told Canfield the Office of Indian Affairs would have no objections to a bypass road if it did not call for any expenditure from them. Canfield later informed Regional Director Miller of his meeting with Crow and suggested that the road be built with Park Service funds since the relocation primarily benefited the monument. [1853] In his monthly report for April 1956, Zion's Acting Superintendent Art Thomas reported to Director Wirth, "There is considerable sentiment in the community for the proposed road from U.S. 89 at Fredonia to connect with U.S. 91 at Hurricane. Special Booster Clubs have been formed and officials hope to get [it] in the 1957 program." [1854]

While on a supply run to Fredonia in June 1956 Heaton was told "that both Mohave County officials and [Arizona] State Road Commission have turned down our request that the road from Fredonia to Hurricane be made a secondary road. Now help has been asked of our U.S. Senators to have the Bureau of Public Roads... build the highway. Hope we get some action." [1855] On July 2 the town of Fredonia had what Heaton called "a homecoming celebration" that was attended by 15 to 20 officials, including the governor, a state senator, and county road officials. Heaton reported, "Some of the men drove over the road from Fredonia to the Utah state line at Short Creek and were well-pleased with the alignment.... We surely have a lot of men backing our project." [1856]

On July 14, 1956, Heaton went to Flagstaff, Arizona, to a meeting to discuss area road developments and the impact of the Glen Canyon Dam's construction on area transportation systems. Representatives attended from Fredonia, businessmen from towns along U.S. 89, government officials, and Commissioner Frank Christensen (Arizona State Road Commission). During a two-hour session, they learned that the road from Fredonia west to the Utah state line must be included in the State's secondary road system to qualify for federal assistance. Then, federal funds could cover up to 90 percent of the cost of the road that passed through federal lands. Traffic on roads to the new Glen Canyon Dam site was anticipated to be very heavy; road officials thought more than one route to the dam site would be needed. The railroad yard in Santa Fe was to enlarge its operations by 300 cars to handle the incoming freight associated with the dam's construction. It was estimated then that more than 300,000 carloads of cement would be used in the dam. [1857]

On July 22, 1956, two State Highway Department officials and the State Planning Board chairman traveled with some local men over State Highway 40 from Fredonia to Short Creek, accompanied by Leonard Heaton. The officials talked about how easy it would be make a road along that route, Heaton reported later, and stated it would be included in their planning as an access road to the Glen Canyon Dam project. [1858] During that July, a letter was received from the superintendent of the Uintah and Ouray Indian Agency giving permission to the Park Service to build a road south of the monument for through travel. Permission still had to be secured from the Kaibab Paiute Tribal Council, however.

In August 1956 Heaton reported that Acting Director Scoyen responded to a letter from Arizona Senator Barry Goldwater about the Hurricane-Fredonia road situation. Scoyen informed Goldwater that the portion of the road that crossed the reservation was eligible for federal aid, but the Indian Service had to apply for it. On August 23 Heaton and Superintendent Franke attended the Utah and Arizona State Road Commission meeting in Kanab concerning the Hurricane-Fredonia road, to discuss the possibility of getting it built as an access road to the Glen Canyon Dam. At least two area roads were approved as access roads to the dam. Heaton reported, "Looks like the Kanab road to the dam will be put in first and [the] Fredonia-Hurricane road next in two years." [1859] But few wanted to wait another two years for the Hurricane-Fredonia road to be improved.

On August 27, 1956, Regional Director Miller wrote Director Wirth about the bypass road, making an argument for why the Park Service should finance its construction:

What apparently has always stopped consideration beyond this point is the question of how this Service could expend funds to construct the bypass outside the monument. The amount involved is approximately $5,000.

Since the bypass would be of primary benefit to us, it seems reasonable that we should expend the funds necessary to accomplish the change. Increasing activity in this vicinity focusing on the Glen Canyon Dam and increased travel generally create a nuisance as well as a hazard to visitors by having this road go directly by the primary feature of the area - the point of visitor concentration. The existing road practically bisects this 40-acre monument.

Inasmuch as the Indian Service and we are sister bureaus and the benefits mutual, though predominantly ours, could authority be granted to an interbureau agreement so that this Service would be authorized to expend the necessary funds? That solution is probably too simple. Is there any other suggestion you can make to achieve this goal except asking for special legislation, perhaps attached to the Appropriation Bill? [1860]

109. Pipe Spring National Monument Boundary Status Map, May 195 (Courtesy National Archives, Record Group 79). (click on image for an enlargement in a new window)

Assistant Director Hillory A. Tolson referred the matter to the NPS Solicitor's office for an opinion. In early October Assistant Solicitor J. Edward Amschel wrote Tolson that he believed Congressional authorization would be required for the Park Service to expend funds on the bypass road. Such authority might be secured in the form of a special act of Congress, the inclusion of the item in the next "basic authorities" bill, or by including appropriate language in the next appropriation bill. [1861] None of these solutions appeared attractive to Miller.

In November 1956 Superintendent Franke offered Miller an alternative for solving the problem. Franke wrote Miller that, during a September 25—26 visit to Zion by Utah Senator Arthur V. Watkins, Zion officials broached the issue of the bypass road. Officials pointed out that the Hurricane-Fredonia route was important not only as an approach road to Pipe Spring, but also as link to Glen Canyon Dam and its recreational area approach highway. It was also a natural link between U.S. Highways 89 and 91. Watkins later conferred with civic leaders in southern Utah and studied the problem, including an overflight inspection of the area. Then Watkins informed Franke he would take the matter up with Senator Barry Goldwater and urge the U.S. Indian Service to program the improvement of that road section within the Kaibab Indian Reservation. (Both senators were members of the Interior and Insular Affairs Committee.) Franke suggested to Miller that a representative from the Washington office discuss the matter with Watkins. He said, "I will in the meantime get the communities of southern Utah and northern Arizona to forward their expression of support for this project to their respective representatives." [1862] Franke was confident that improvement of the 15-mile road section on the reservation would be "promptly followed by the Road Commissioners of Utah and Arizona in improving the balance of the Hurricane-Fredonia Road." [1863]

In February 1957 Heaton reported that the road from Fredonia to Short Creek to the Utah state line had finally been placed in the Arizona secondary road system. In May he attended a Fredonia meeting of businessmen, city councilmen, and the editor of the Arizona Republic, whose purpose was to "try and get the need of the Fredonia-Hurricane road before the public." [1864] On July 21 Heaton wrote, "Was told last night that Utah Governor Clyde is to be in Kanab this week and will drive over the road from Fredonia to Hurricane and Utah. Is now in a hurry to get the money to build their part of the road. I expect to see it started this winter or spring." [1865] In August Heaton learned that Utah had $100,000 to "put their part of the road in shape for truck route travel and the two state commissions are to meet in 10 days to decide on the route at Short Creek." [1866] Toward the end of the month he noted an increase in large truck travel through the monument. On August 29 an Arizona road engineer and two aides visited the area to look over the road situation, but gave Heaton little indication of what the State Road Commission would do. In mid-September representatives from the Bureau of Reclamation also came out to look over the road. In September 1957 Heaton reported, "There is still considerable talk of getting the oiled road from Fredonia to Hurricane started soon by several different groups of people." [1867] Apparently, area bridges were incapable of handling much weight, for Heaton reported in October, "There is an increase in big trucks using the Fredonia-Hurricane road traveling empty, because of the poor bridges." [1868]

In mid-February 1958, Heaton reported, "Was told in Fredonia that Utah has started the road survey from Hurricane to Short Creek and are trying to get Mohave County to spend the $100,000 on the Indian Reservation each year till it is completed, also that by the first Monday in March there should be a report on the REA coming into our area." [1869] Later that month Heaton wrote that there was a "lot of talk regarding the trucking of cement over the road from Hurricane, Utah to Fredonia, Arizona for Glen Canyon Dam, 12 to 24 [trucks] per day. This will add to my worries for safety through the monument this summer because of parking of visitors on the south side of the road." [1870] In March Heaton learned that Utah was surveying a road from Hurricane to the Arizona state line, "wanting to get that road built and accommodate the big trucks hauling supplies to Glen Canyon. It looks like Arizona will be forced to build all or part of it in a year or so," he wrote. [1871] In March Superintendent Franke requested that the master plan's topographic base map indicate access roads to Glen Canyon Dam and the town of Hurricane. "We believe both the Glen Canyon Project and the Hurricane-Fredonia Road are major factors influencing our development," he wrote WODC officials. [1872]

In May 1958 the local sheriff told Heaton that Utah road engineers had found a feasible route through Short Creek Canyon to Kanab, raising the possibility that if Arizona did not cooperate in building the Hurricane-Fredonia road by Pipe Spring, Utah would construct a new road elsewhere. Heaton believed that businessmen in Flagstaff and Kingman were "selfishly" obstructing the construction of the Hurricane-Fredonia route because they wanted to keep traffic on the Route 66 highway.

In June 1958 tribal concerns about access to Pipe Spring water threatened to derail the Park Service's plans to construct a bypass road and to fully carry out monument development plans. About this time, Park Service officials learned the Bureau of Indian Affairs (BIA) and the Kaibab Paiute opposed construction of the bypass road believing the removal of the old monument road denied them access to Pipe Spring water. In a memorandum to the Chief of the WODC about the monument's master plan, Chief of Design and Construction Thomas Vint stated that if the access issue became a stumbling point with the Kaibab Paiute, then

... it may be necessary to leave a secondary type of road through the monument for use of the Indians even if the bypass is built at a later date. This would affect the visitor center location.

We believe that the bypass could be built by the National Park Service under the same authority that was used to make an agreement with the Forest Service for us to build the Wupatki-Sunset Crater Road. This would require an agreement with the Bureau of Indian Affairs. [1873]

Regional Director Miller later sent a copy of the Park Service's agreement with the U.S. Forest Service at Wupatki and Sunset Crater to Superintendent Franke as an example of one that might be executed between Pipe Spring and the Indian Service.

Events taking place at Zion National Park in 1958 increased pressure on the Park Service to get the bypass road constructed. Increasing truck traffic spurred by the construction of Glen Canyon Dam led to Zion placing weight restrictions on trucks using the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway. Beginning January 1, 1959, the Park Service planned to forbid any travel over the highway by trucks exceeding three tons. [1874] Consequently, the Glen Canyon Project would now cause more travel along the old route past Pipe Spring National Monument and force improvements to be made to the Hurricane-Fredonia road, which of course local residents had been begging for from county and state officials for years.

On June 27, 1958, Superintendent Franke wrote the superintendent of the Kaibab Indian Reservation informing him that the monument's master plan was ready to be sent to Director Wirth for review and consideration and that approved plans would be budgeted within the near future. The development plan called for building a bypass road outside the monument boundaries. Such a road could be built by the Park Service with BIA and tribal approval, wrote Franke. Franke proposed an interagency meeting to review and discuss the monument's development program, to be held either at Zion or in Ft. Duchesne, Utah. [1875] A nearly identical letter was sent to Superintendent O'Harra at the Hopi Indian Reservation, suggesting a meeting in Zion or at Keams Canyon. [1876]

Park Service and Indian Service representatives met on July 11, 1958, and discussed two alternative routes for a bypass road south of the monument. One alignment would have been 3/4-mile long, the other, 1.5 to 2 miles in length. The Kaibab Paiute representative preferred the road be kept closer to the monument's south boundary than the Park Service plan proposed, which located the route further south to avoid cutting through the archeological site just below the monument. It was agreed that the Park Service was to build the road, subject to Tribal Council approval of its survey and map.

Meanwhile, Regional Chief of Operations Canfield learned that $8,000 had been programmed for the 1960 Road and Trail Program for the Park Service to construct a road bypassing Pipe Spring National Monument. Canfield notified Regional Director Miller that Park Service solicitors still maintained it would take special legislation (i.e., Congressional approval) to authorize the spending of Park Service funds on such a project. "The authority by which we could spend money in this project is still clouded and uncertain," Canfield wrote. [1877] Similar questions of authority were pending at Coronado, Navajo, and Rainbow Bridge national monuments, and the question of expending funds outside monument boundaries had been recently placed before the director. Canfield suggested that the director's reply might indicate how to best handle the Pipe Spring situation.

In September 1958 Franke submitted a map showing the road's planned location to superintendents of the Hopi and Kaibab reservations and asked for comment and approval. [1878] O'Harra responded that he had no objections to the proposed route (or locating it even 200 feet further north than shown on the plan) but could not bring it before the Kaibab Paiute Tribal Council as it was then inactive. He anticipated it might be reactivated after a November 22 meeting in Moccasin. [1879] Franke wrote Hugh Miller at the regional office and inquired, given the apparent lack of concern by the Kaibab Paiute for the archeological ruins, whether the Park Service might construct the bypass road through the ruins? Erik Reed made a handwritten comment on the letter after it reached the office to the effect that the interbureau agreement the Park Service had with the Indian Service on roads would require the Indian Service to finance archeology investigations if the ruins were to be impacted; he voted for avoiding the site. Canfield agreed with Reed and advised Franke to avoid the prehistoric site. [1880]

On January 24, 1959, Heaton attended a meeting with the Kaibab Paiute to ask for their approval for the Park Service to construct the bypass road south of the monument on reservation land, explaining the Service's reasons. Heaton later wrote in his journal,

... they discussed it for some time, then turned the application down. Reasons: no money for them, cutting up their land with roads, then if new highway comes through soon [there will be] more changes, then no guarantee Indians could be given work on the road. The council members listened to the older people, then I think it was partly [because of] their attitude toward the white men and the treatment they have received. [1881]

On February 12, 1959, Heaton reported to Superintendent Franke on the meeting in more depth. Present at the meeting on January 24 were Chairman Theodore Drye, Secretary Lucille Jake, Bill Tom, Ray Mose, William Mayo, Morris Jake, and about 15 other tribal members. Heaton said that discussion among the Tribal Council took about 20 minutes. Then they raised the following objections to the bypass road (in Heaton's words):

1st They did not want their land all cut up with roads. If a new highway was to be built in two or four years through the reservation it would not likely go where the present road is now, and it would mean more cutting up of their grazing lands.

2nd There would not be any money in it for them, unless just a few days labor, as they thought most of the work would be done by machinery.

3rd It would take out some of the fruit trees and farm land (southeast of the monument). [1882]

The latter area referred to were the gardens just below the Indian pond (reservoir), constructed in 1933.

During February 1959, Heaton reported a decline in use of U.S. Highway 89 caused by the opening of the Glen Canyon Bridge. Less traffic along the route through Fredonia resulted in a drop in visitation to Pipe Spring, he observed. On April 14 the Kaibab Paiute Tribal Council voted to allow the State of Arizona right-of-way to build its portion of the Hurricane-Fredonia road through the reservation. Over the winter of 1958-1959, Mohave County maintained the road from Fredonia to the Utah line, but beginning July 1 maintenance was taken over by the Arizona State Road Commission. Heaton later reported that the road maintenance improved thereafter.

On June 21, 1959, some road engineers working on the Hurricane-Fredonia road stopped by to see the monument. They told Heaton work would soon start at Short Creek and head east from there. Short Creek Bridge and five miles of road were to be built in 1959 at a cost of $230,000. In July 1959 the Arizona State Road Commission began survey work on building Arizona's portion of the new Hurricane-Fredonia road. The road was to bypass the monument about 700 feet (about 1/4 mile) to the south. Work was suspended on July 10, Heaton reported, "because of political differences." He had been told it would be another two years before the new road was constructed. During July the Arizona Department of Highways hired Heaton's son Leonard P. as maintenance man on the Fredonia to Short Creek section of road.

In November 1960 Arizona Department of Highways awarded a construction contract for just under $.5 million to a Phoenix company to build 4.3 miles of road and one bridge south of the Arizona-Utah line at Short Creek. Work was scheduled for completion by June 30, 1961. By the end of 1961, all but 10 miles of the Short Creek to Hurricane part of the Fredonia-Hurricane road was asphalted; Short Creek to Pipe Spring was still dirt, while the road from the monument to Fredonia was only oiled. The monument experienced a notable rise in visitation that year. In April 1962 Utah contracted to pave the remainder of the Utah portion of the Hurricane-Fredonia road and work was completed in August.

Superintendent Oberhansley visited Arizona State Highway Engineer Van Horn in Phoenix in mid-January 1962 to discuss the State's completion of the Hurricane-Fredonia road. [1883] Oberhansley was not particularly encouraged by the response, but told Heaton the Arizona portion was to be completed that year. The only improvement activity that took place, however, was in August 1962 when the State contracted for the bridge crossing Kanab Creek in Fredonia to be rebuilt along with 1.5 miles of road. (Work did not begin until the following March, however.) The same month the Arizona State Road Commission purchased the right-of-way from the Kaibab Paiute Tribe for the Fredonia-Short Creek portion of the highway that passed through the reservation. [1884] Meanwhile, traffic along the road and through the monument had already increased significantly since the Utah portion of the road had been improved. Of particular concern was heavy truck traffic. During November Heaton and Olsen noticed plaster fill that had fallen in a number of areas around the fort. They suspected the problem stemmed from vibrations caused either by earthquakes, large trucks passing by the monument (then at a rate of three to eight per day), or jet fighters passing low over the area. In addition to concerns about vibration, some drivers drove through the monument at excessive speeds, ignoring posted signs, posing a serious safety hazard for visitors.

Between May and June 1963, the Arizona State Highway Department chipped and seal-coated the road from Fredonia to the monument. The dirt road west of the monument to Short Creek remained unpaved and in poor condition.