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Pojoaque
As part of the program to replant Pueblo Indians
uprooted during the years of revolt and reconquest, Spanish officials in
1707 revived the small, deserted pre-Revolt pueblo of Pojoaque. They
peopled it with displaced Tewas and exiled Pecos and they called it the
mission and pueblo of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe de Pojoaque.
But rarely if ever did it number over a hundred souls.
The site lay atop a ridge roughly 16 miles north of
Santa Fe and only 3 miles down from Nambé on Pojoaque Creek. The
view across the valley and beyond to the gray-blue mountains above Taos
was spectacular. "This little pueblo," wrote Domínguez, "has been
a visita of Nambé in perpetuity." [1]
If there was a church at Pojoaque before 1765, it did
not rate mention. In that year one Fray José Esparragoza y Adame,
resident at Nambé, enlisted the Indians to start building one.
Like the Castrense in Santa Fe, it would face to the north. But the job
dragged and Father Esparragoza accepted a transfer. The new man at
Nambé, Fray Juan José Llanos, revived the project, and in
1773, by hook or by crook, he saw it completed.
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65. Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe de Pojoaque in 1899.
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Despite its newness, Father Domínguez found
nothing in the long spare church and its token two-room convento to
praise. Judging from his notice of "carelessly wrought" and "badly laid"
beams, he must have considered it a shoddy job. He was right. By 1804 it
stood badly in need of repairs. Because the Ortiz familythe
literate dñna Josefa Bustamante, her stepson and brother-in-law
Antonio José Ortiz, and his brother Gasparowned most of the
land in the Pojoaque area, don Antonio José took on yet another
charity case. He paid for rebuilding the sanctuary and then had a new
altar screen featuring Our Lady of Guadalupe made and installed. In July
1806, the month before Ortiz died, Fray Diego Martínez
Ramírez de Arellano represented the Pojoaque church as "good and
new." The convento, on the other hand, was "very deteriorated and most
uncomfortable for the friars of this land." [2]
Even smaller than Nambé, the pueblo of
Pojoaque succumbed more rapidly to encroachment, intermarriage, and
dispersal. Lieutenant Bourke, who took the trouble to visit the place in
1881, found only four families still living here.
This pueblo, so to call it, of Pojuaque is very
dilapidated. . . . Visited the old church, alongside of which are the
ruins of the convent, formerly standing here. Within bow-shot, is the
orchard and vineyard of the pueblo and here growing in full luxuriance
were apples, pears, peaches, apricots, plums, grapes and different kinds
of vegetables. The inhabitants of Pojuaque differ in no essential from
the Mexicans surrounding them. The church, in its interior, is one of
the most thoroughly archaic in all New Mexico. Upon the walls are
numerous paintings of saints, some of which manifest an improvement in
artistic taste and skill over those I've seen elsewhere. There are
several which, if properly cleaned, would be, I think, very beautiful,
notably that of Our Lady of Guadalupe, over the main altar.
A human skull, typical of Life's destiny, surmounts
the old Confessional. These very good pictures bore every sign of having
come from Spain; others, I've no doubt, came from Mexico, and the ruder
sketches in the panels of the altar piece, in all probability were the
work of the Indians themselves.
One of the pictures is so blackened by age and a
deposit of soot that its subject cannot be distinguished. Near the
altar, is a crucifix, whereon hangs our Savior, his body raw with
crimson wounds and in attendance upon him a decidedly dumpy little
angel. [3]
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66. Inside the church, 1899.
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67. Narrow boxlike apse and simple convento
stand out in the Vroman view of Pojoaque from teh southeast, 1899.
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Because the road between Santa Fe and Taos curved
around the hill to avoid a steep grade, few travelers noticed the
Pojoaque church. That probably saved it, at least for a time. Then,
about 1906 or 1907, someone applied a pitched roof and schoolhouse
cupola. No simple job, the roof comprised three sections: one covering
the nave and running with the long axis of the church, another crosswise
at the higher level over the sanctuary, and a third above the narrow
apse.
As late as 1915, Prince wrote of the Pojoaque church
as "quaint and free from the vandalism of modern innovation." It
possessed therefore "much more of interest to the intelligent and
appreciative visitor than the most sumptuous structures of a recent
day." Obviously he had not seen the new roof.
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68. and 69. Front (68) and rear (69)
views of the Pojoaque church by archaeologist George H. Pepper, c.
1907.
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Today all that mark the historic church and pueblo of
Pojoaque are low mounds and those telltale lines of vegetation that
betray buried foundations. A mile or so away Roman Catholics in the area
worship at the parish church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, a $160,000
modified A-frame, that sumptuous structure of a recent age. [4]
Copyright © 1980 by
the University of New Mexico Press. All rights reserved. Material from
this edition published for the Cultural Properties Review Committee by
the University of New Mexico Press may not be reproduced in any manner
without the written consent of the author and the University of New
Mexico Press.
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